I thought I'd write up some notes on day trips - short and long - from Paris.

Here are the places I've thought of so far - any others to be added?

• Giverny and Vernon
• Chartres
• Versailles
• Mont St. Michel
• Rouen
• Fontainebleau
• Normandy D-Day sites
• Dijon
• Brugges (Belgium)
• Le Mans
• Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte
• Loire Valley chateaux?
• Reims and Epernay

I'd add Beauvais, Soissons, Sens, Senlis, Compiègne: this last maybe the best choice of all because of the museum, the château and the setting all in one.

Bruges is no longer a day trip, and the road to get there is among the heaviest traffic in France. Epernay is of interest only to champagne people, a pleasant little town but nothing special; in fact, champagnewise nothing you can't see in Reims, unless you really mean to do a specialist's tour and are interested in specific cellars. I'd substitute Laon, closer and of more general interest.
   M. St-Michel and the beaches are also a bit far, especially if you want to have the time to see them, and bearing in mind that access to the Mont S. Michel is dependent on tides, which are on their own schedule.

Closer to Paris, there is Rambouillet and Saint-Cloud, to say nothing of St-Denis right on the edge of town but the basilica of great historical importance, even if now in a rather seedy setting.

Well, high-speed train, fine, although you still consume time going to the station at the Paris end; and then Lyon and Nantes become day trips, too... There is too much to see in Bruges to make it a convenient day trip from Paris, don't you think? At any rate, it seems perverse to stay in Paris only then to go so far afield and disconnect oneself from one's home base by spending time in a different province altogether.
Moët et Chandon may be visitable in Epernay, but there are quite a few other major cellars to be visited in Reims, which in addition has the cathedral, the church of St-Rémi, and the Roman gate to say nothing of getting a feel for the town itself, plenty enough for one day; Epernay in the same day is overload. (On the other hand, a lovely 3- or 4-day trip to Champagne, Epernay would be a must.)
   In defense mind you of Epernay in the same day, the drive from Reims to Epernay does put the visitor out in the vineyards where the bubbly is grown; but, short of a serious tour of a vineyard -- which can't be crammed too easily into a single day based in Paris -- any vineyard looks pretty much like any other.

Good idea for a post, Colleen. And I agree, it's good to list both long and short trips.... There are probably bound to be people interested in both, even if the long ones might feel like you're trying to cram in a lot in one day........

If anyone wants to know a bit about Fontainebleau, I spent a summer studying there once. It's kind of a sleepy little town with pretty easy access to, I think, the Gare de Lyons. It's pretty interesting to see it for a contrast to Versailles. Nice gardens, both English and French....... The château itself is pretty cool, although it wasn't in great repair when I was there ..... in 1979 -- I don't know what kind of shape it's in these days. Also some nice little hikes/picnics to be taken in the Forêt de Fontainebleau, kind of like a national park. Also gives you the most direct connection with why the Fontainebleau school of artists painted like they did when you see the forest -- the light and colors.........

I've done a day trip from Paris to London via Eurostar thru Paris Vision tours. It was really enjoyable.

London! Of course! Can't believe I forgot about the availability of the EuroStar through the chunnel. Thanks for the reminder.

I just saw a post on the AOL Paris travel board about Auvers-sur-Oise, the village where Vincent van Gogh spent the last few weeks of his life. He and his beloved brother Theo are buried in the town cemetery. An hour or so train ride from Paris, it sounds like a fascinating day trip.
Here's a link to an article in the December 2001 Food & Wine magazine about the auberge van Gogh lived in, and a recent book about it, Van Gogh's Table at the Auberge Ravoux.

Van Gogh's Legacy

Colleen,

I would agree that both the D-DAY/Normandy Beaches and Mont Saint Michel are l-o-n-g daytrips---but they are eminently '..do-able..' in a single day AND, a great many visitors with limited time do want to see them while they are on that side of the ocean. For that reason you should include them. Brugges is also '..do-able..' via Thalys as id London via Eurostar---though these too are l-o-n-g days. But, no longer than many people's normal work day.

You might want to tack Rouen onto the GIVERNY day-trip---since Rouen is only another 45 minutes or so farther along the same rail line. There's an onward train from Vernon to Rouen at approx. 13:00 (1 PM) It is also worth noting that there is a VERSAILLES stop between Vernon/Giverny and Paris. This information provides other options to someone going out to visit Giverny.

I am so glad this post has resurfaced. We leave for London in a little over 3 weeks, and after our week there (we're doing a day trip to Oxford) we are taking the Eurostar for a week in Paris. There are so many places to see in Paris alone, but I think I would hate to not venture out at all, given than I have never been to France. Given that, I was debating between Giverny, Versailles and Chartres.

To be honest, I have seen photos of Versailles, and while I can't deny it is spectacular, it is so over the top opulent, I don't know if it is my kind of place. I LOVE Monet and I love to garden, and Giverny looks and sounds wonderful - but I have read is is very crowded, which spoils the visit. Lastly, Chartres - I know little about the town, but I have heard the cathedral is gorgeous (I do like old cathedrals) - but what else is there to do there?

So - HELP!!! Feedback from those of you who have been is welcome and wanted!

We have only been to Giverny but we loved it so much that we have visited the gardens each time we have been to Paris (twice). We would definitely go back again. We have not been to Versailles or Chartres. I think it would be wonderful to also go to Chartres.

We have been to Giverny in early June and mid June. The iris, poppies and roses are in full bloom in June. I can not remember if the waterlilies were also in bloom. I love colors of the garden and the house.

It is also amazing to see the artistic interpretation of the waterlilies. I would recommend seeing Monet's waterlily paintings before going to the garden. You may want to go to Musée Marmottan before visiting the garden. I saw this collection in Portland Oregon a few years ago and I wish I had seen it before visiting the gardens.

To us, the journey to Giverny is part of the adventure. First, you have to get the train ticket to Vernon and figure out how to take a train. From Vernon, you can take a taxi, bus, bike or walk. We have always walked. I would not recommend walking unless you are really adventurous. It is about 3 miles but there is a path that you can take that is off the main road. Here you get to look in backyards of the French houses and see the wildflowers. We are on the hunt for orchids and have always found the european bee orchid along the trail. But last time it was quite hot and I didn't have a hat. Here is web site for Giverny.

Does anyone have recommendations for lunch at Giverny? We took a picnic one time but you have to eat it outside the gardens. Picnicing is NOT allowed in the garden. We had a baguette sticking out of our pack and almost had to throw it away.

Marta

Thanks Marta,

The Giverny website is very useful. Before I'd thought of any other day trip, Giverny was the one!

Have you ever written a Paris trip report? If so, is there a link or can you email me a copy? How many times have you been to Paris?

I am very excited about our trip -

Sorry, I have never written a Paris trip report. I have been to Paris twice. Once in 1990 and the last trip was in 1996. The last hotel we stayed at I would never recommend. It was terrible. The first hotel we stayed at is the Hotel Castex. It is a nice budget hotel but listed in all the guide books and used by Rick Steves. It has been 12 years since I stayed there so I'm a little hessitant to recommend it because of not having any recent experience.

I don't have any particular restaurant recommendations either because we never got the hang of being able to order in French. I would do so much better now because I've taken French. Instead we went to deli, got take out and ate along the banks of the Seine with a view of Notre Dame. I would strongly recommend the Bertillon ice cream. It is available several places especially on Ile St. Louis.

I might be able to remember some of the places we visited and things to do. What items are you planning on visiting?

Marta

We are renting an Apartment very near the Place du Voges in the Marais. We have hired a guide for at least one day - his name is Michael and I read about him on the AOL boards -I believe there is something about him on this site as well. He will take us to the Louvre for sure - not sure what other sights. We're travelling with our kids, ages 14 and 10.

We plan to visit the the Musee d'Orsay, the Carnavalet, Notre Dame, the Eiffle Tower - all the usual sights. I am a big photo buff, so we will definitely hit the museum of photographie, which is also in the Marais near the Carnavalet. I imagine we will also hit the Pere Lechaise cemetery - if for nothing other than photo ops for me (yes, I like to take photos of cemetery monuments) and the Rue Cler.

We are big foodies - so anything related to food will be popular. We don't do fancy restaurants - we usually find the quality of food is not relative to the price - and then we are disappointed that we spent a lot of money on mediocre food. I am looking forward to trying some quintessential French dishes - creme brulee, omelettes, chicken in tarragon sauce...and pastries! Bertillion was already on the list - but can it come even close to the gelati we had in Italy last year?

Tracy -- be sure to include the Musee Rodin,and to enjoy the garden and small cafe out back.

Yes, I agree. Definitely visit the Rodin museum and the cafe is very good.

I love the Marais area and the Place des Vosges is a beautiful square. The Hotel Castex is in the area and we spent many hours exploring the area. We did eat at Ma Bourgogne overlooking the Place. Typical Bistro food but wonderful location. Bofinger is also in the area but I haven't actually eaten at Bofinger.

For foodies, I highly recommend Rue de Buci. It's a street market in St Germain and very close to the Seine. In addition to the street market which is open Tue-Sat, there is a supermarket with great selection of items. We would visit the supermarche to pick up wine, water, fruit, cheese and Poulane bread. There are also several deli, chicken roaster, patisseries everything you need to pick up.

Your trip sounds like great fun. I really need a trip to France. Enjoy!

Marta

For foodies, I highly recommend Rue de Buci.

The sounds perfect! My husband fondly remembers eating rotisserie chicken when he travelled to France with his parents as a boy. He can't wait to try them again.

For the patisserie fans out there, there is a lovely article in this month's House & Garden - essentially a Paris issue by the way - which features some of Paris's finest: Poilane, Calixte, Poujaran, and Laduree to name a few. There are tantalizing photos of their confections as well.

Lastly, Poilane has opened a shop in London. Just FYI

Tracy,
I *love* Poilâne bread! A hunk of bread with some camembert cheese smeared on it - Yum. Lucky you, to be able to find it on both sides of the channel!

On Rue St. Paul (near the Metro station) is a small shop with a fantastic variety of cheeses, and just a couple of doors down is a wine shop, and a few doors from that is a patisserie. You'll find all you'll need for picnics very close to your apartment.

It sounds like Giverny is where you really want to go for your excursion. I haven't been, but it does sound lovely - particularly at this time of year.

If I had to choose between Chartres and Versailles, I think I'd opt for Chartres. The cathedral is more beautiful and stunning than words can say - and it has that famous labyrinth . There are twice-daily (a.m. and p.m.) tours and talks given by Malcolm Miller, who has spent a lifetime studying the magnificent stained glass windows of the cathedral. I don't recall the times, but there should be a sign posted at the little giftshop at the left of the entrance. Each tour is different, so you could take both tours, with a nice lunch in between. Something I rarely see mentioned about the cathedral are the fine wood carvings inside, telling stories from - I believe - the life of Christ. Beautifully detailed, these sculptures show the clothing styles and daily life of centuries past. Btw, if you take black and white photos, the exterior of the cathedral makes a wonderful subject.

Now Versailles ... You're right - it is over-the-top opulent, but it's awe inspiring, too. I actually didn't spend all that much time inside (had to see the Hall of Mirrors, of course), but the gardens! Oh My. If you're in need of some time spent with nature around you, just keep walking past the chateau into the greenspace beyond. Elaborate fountains are placed in the middle of peaceful clearings, trees trees trees, and Marie Antoinette's little 'Hameau' with small farm animals begging for attention.

Re: Pere Lachaise cemetery - as a fellow crypt sculpture photography lover I can tell you you're going to be amazed at the breadth of the cemetery, not to mention the number of famous 'permanent Parisians.' There's a trick for visiting, i.e. taking the Metro to the stop *above* the cemetery so you enter at the top and walk downhill... I'll look in my notes to find the right name for you.

To make a visit to the Pere Lachaise cemetery a little easier, take the Metro past the Pere Lachaise stop, and exit at the Gambetta station. There are flower stands and places to buy a cemetery map near this Metro station.
Metro line #3; direction: Gallieni.
From the Gambetta stop, you'll enter the cemetery at the top, and from there can work your way down the hill rather than up from the bottom! As you leave the cemetery, you can catch the Metro at the Pere Lachaise station.

I second Marta's assessment of rue du Buci. We took Rick Steves' "first day in Paris" stroll from the Quai de Conti along rue de Seine toward Boulevard Saint Germain, and stopped at a little cafe on rue du Buci for a drink. There were lots of cafes and places to buy take-out food- also a grocery store, as I recall (might have been a Leclerc). We found a lot of reasonably-priced places to eat along rue St. Benoit near St. Germain-des-Pres. We also enjoyed a pretty good Alsatian meal at Chope d'Alsace (Carrefour de L'Odeon). On rue Monsieur-le-Prince (near Odeon) we also had a good meal at Polidor; we stayed about a block away at at the Hotel St. Paul. Polidor really has the feel of a neighborhood place.

Wander and you shall find!