Volterra is rather crowded, but it seemed to me much more with Italian tourists than with us foreigners. It rather reminds me of Viterbo, in that it's a prosperous, medieval, urban setting. My own dada -- Etruscan and Roman stuff -- is remarkably well represented. The Roman theater is quick to look at, since, unless I'm mistaken, it's not actually visitable; and at the same time quite unforgettable, since a plunging-view promenade has been set up all around it:
and not to mislead, what's in the back is part of a bath complex; and for about a dozen other pics see this inelegant directory (site not written yet!!)
There are medieval and Roman walls, a famous Etruscan gate, the usual assortment of beautiful churches we expect of Italy, and the whole is set in a most striking barely masked volcanic landscape. I like Volterra and shoulda spent four or five days rather than the one that I did.
We spent a day in Volterra. Interesting town, interesting area. But the area south of Volterra to Pomerance and south from there is an old mining area and still has a distinct "smell". The drive from Volterra to San Gimignano is not that pretty and felt a bit long. You might feel a bit stuck out there and have to drive a lot from Volterra.
So I vote for Cortona. More central. More tourists - yes. Or somewhere near Volterra, but closer in like San Gimignano or Colle di Val d'Elsa.
Having just recently visited Volterra from our agriturismo in San Gimignano, I would highly recomend day tripping into the city rather than staying there. It has lots that is worth seeing but once you've soaked up all that there is to see you will find that most other interesting destinations are not that nearby. (And I am assuming that you were planning on "slow traveling" to Cortona or Volterra)
Posts: 253 | Location: US | Registered: 14 July 2002
I spent a week in Cortona about two years ago and enjoyed the town immensely. Our hotel (San Michele) was lovely and the folks there were incredibly accommodating. There are a number of nice restaurants, and possibly some of the best gelato I have ever eaten in all of Italy - reason enough to go there in my book. The Etruscan museum is quite good, there are some interesting shops, some nice hiking in the area. I would gladly go back for another week. There are plenty of places to go for day trips as well.
My one day in Volterra was not that memorable.
Callie
Posts: 655 | Location: Maine | Registered: 23 November 2002
Cortona is pleasant and interesting, but I would vote for Volterra. The landscape, as mentioned by others, is striking, a little other-worldly, but I particularly like the drive south from Volterra (I didn't get much of the smells aforementioned) towards Massa Marittima and other parts of the Maremma, which are lovely and evocative and less traveled. Volterra itself is fascinating, and the Etruscan museum is excellent. Isn't this where the original of the Ombra della Sera statuette is? Very like Giacometti, and only a millenia separating them! Cortona, I fear, has been a little over-played and perhaps over-paid by Frances Mayes.
Posts: 2054 | Location: Suburban Philadelphia | Registered: 08 July 2002
We ahve not been to cortona so don't read this as a vote one way or the other. But we loved Volterra and San Gim,. If I didn't stay at a friends winery I would find an apartment in the area between, near Casole Val d'Elsa and so a lot of wandering around the area. Everything is a long windy drive from everything else, and the landscape can be stark, but this portion of Toscanna is fiulled with life. Its also a good base to explore up the 429 to Certaldo Alta and other spots.
If life is an opera by Puccini... I want to be Calaf!
Posts: 4611 | Location: Casa del Fenicottero Rosa, Silver Spring, MD USA | Registered: 06 August 2002
Iâve been to both Volterra and Cortona several times. I would definitely recommend Volterra as a better destination than Cortona. As mentioned in one of the more recent posts, the countryside âdownhillâ from Cortona towards Trasimeno is not exactly awe-inspiring â in fact rather dull and Cortona itself has IMO during the post-Mayes years become a sort of mini-Disneyland - I seem to remember one of the ice-cream shops was even called Goofy or Mickey Mouse ? Not necessarily a bad thing if you live from it but it was nicer in the BM (before Mayes) years. Better to be in the San Gimignano, Volterra, Siena area with easy access to Maremma, the sea and Chiantishire. One caveat â I would not recommend staying in Volterra (at least not for longer than one night) â parking can be hell and if you are unlucky you canât get a spot on top. I would not like to lug my luggage up and down the stairs. In Volterra visit the Etruscan museum and an alabaster workshop and wander the streets â canât remember which day is market day but it is quite impressive strung out along the street with a roman theatre as a backdrop. I think there have been enough trip reports of things to do in the area without me adding any more.
I haven't been to Cortona yet, but have been to Volterra. I therefore cannot give any comparisons, but we did have a very memorable meal in a restaurant just near the museum and I would recommend it. It's called the Etruria (they have a website here).
Posts: 1951 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 09 September 2002
Wow. As the Romans used to say: Tot capita, quot sensus -- As many opinions as there are people!
Scouring the last bits I can contribute on this one, mostly seconding comments already made: - the immediate surroundings of Volterra are not for everyone, as Pauline said, plus they're sparse in comparison with much of Umbria and certain other parts of Tuscany. Volterra is not "central". Those who have a taste for wilder areas, however, can do worse than take the also suggested trip down thru Massa and the Maremma. - somehow I forgot to mention the Etruscan Museum in Volterra, which (with Bologna, the Villa Giulia in Rome, and Chiusi) is one of the Big Four. - Cortona, slightly more "central" for car people (for a foot person it is not) pays for it with its surroundings: the arc that I know of them, about 120 degrees to the S and E, is not particularly attractive or interesting, we've talked about it a lot onboard, the N shore of Lago Trasimeno and the spaghetti of highways around the lake to Perugia and to Città della Pieve.
Bill
[This message was edited by Bill Thayer on December 04, 2002 at 05:30 AM.]
quote: As the Romans used to say: Tot capita, quot sensus -- As many opinions as there are people!
Was this a donkey-bag reply ? My Latin teacher told me it should be quot homines, tot sententiae - this albeit in 1964. Could be they had a different turn of phrase north of Hadrian's wall.
No, both are good Latin; and yes, your version is the one favored in English. I gave away my French background. A Google search for each phrase turns up 612 of yours, and 1 (one) of mine, on a French page. If the French had a larger Web presence, I imagine there'd be more.
If the choice were between some place east of Volterra and Cortona, I would pick the place east of Volterra. Casole d'Elsa is about as far west as I would stay in that region (if staying for a week - for a few nights Volterra would be fine).
Gaynor at www.labellatoscana.net has many listings at very good prices around San Gimignano and that area.
I got an e-mail from Alessandra yesterday. The movie crews have folded their tents and taken that hedious fountain with them. The out-of-place banners have come down and the fake snow is gone. With many of the British "second home owners" back in England for the holidays, the town is peaceful and almost sleepy. Wish I was there! I love wintertime in central Italy.
Even tho it has gotten popular due to "Tucsan Sun" fame-I still think it is a beautiful town unspoiled by its fame. Have beed at a least a half dozen times and never tire of it. The shop owners are friendly, the shops are interesting and not junky, there is wonderful art in the galleries, and the side streets hold some treasures of smaller shops, etc. I have gotten to know some of the store owners and they welcome us back like family. All in all I think Cortona and its surroundings hold a special charm-maybe that is why I keep going back.
As if you don't have enough varying opinions, here is another! I have been to both towns, both are unique. We stayed in San G and took the bus to Volterra for a day trip. The bus trip was long because you had to make a connection but I remember seeing a sign that Volterra was only 12 miles from San G.
The Etruscan museum was the finest I have visited. We, too, ate at the Etruria and had one of our best meals throughout Italy.
San G is not to be missed.
And I can't wait to revisit each one of them!!
Posts: 8 | Location: Texas | Registered: 30 August 2002
Topic Closed
