I've been reading these messages for months -- and now it's time to jump in! My husband and I are going to Italy in Sept. with another couple with whom we've traveled before. It is not our first visit to Italy, but most places will be new to us. The trip is a week in the Veneto, a week in Tuscany and two days in Cinque Terre.
First we'll stay at a B&B near Padua (from Karen Brown's guidebook). We couldn't find a villa or apt. with 2 bathrooms in our price range, but this wll be a fun way to get to know an Italian family. We'll have a car to explore the area but will take the train from Mestre into Venice.
Second week we'll be at La Porta in Tuscany, rented through TuscanHouse (I'll plan to write a review). This week is where we're looking for tips from Slow Travelers in prioritizing our time.
We don't plan to go to Florence, but will visit Siena (about 40 min. north of La Porta, which is right by Monte Oliveto Maggiore). We're thinking of the "usual places", e.g., San Gimignano, Montepulciano, Montalcino, etc. and also want to see Bagno Vignoni, Volterra (a bit out of the way, but I've read that the museum there is really the best for Etruscan history -- any opinions?,) Pitigliano, Gubbio,Todi, Deruta, Chuisi, Orvieto, etc, etc.
I'd be interested in comments on "the best way to spend six days in Tuscany and Umbria" -- we've already allowed a day for Siena. Thanks, everyone! This is by far the best message board/forum of all the travel sites I've checked! CeCe
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kim,
This Umbrophile never thought he'd say this, but with tons to see so near Chiusure, why would you sacrifice cohesion and memory to a quick dash of Umbria? I vote you stick with your immediate area in Tuscany and get a feel for it: Montepulciano, S. Quirico d' Orcia, Sinalunga -- other more Tuscan-knowledgeable people will fill this in a bit better.
My farthest excursion would be to see the exceptionally interesting museum at Chiusi. You will learn more about the Etruscans in a few hours than in days of wandering tombs under the broiling sun. I add that I'm emphatically not a lover of museums, but this is the one that in my case proves the rule.
TuscanHouse's La Porta looks fabulous!! Zak had mentioned this apartment to me, but I didn't realize they had it listed yet. The prices are great - so we want a detailed review from you. I could see Steve and I renting it for a month some time soon!!
Chisure is a small town in a perfect location. There is so much to see close by that I think that is what you should concentrate on. Forget Gubbio, Todi and Deruta for this trip. On your next trip, spend a week in Umbria and see those places. The drive will be way too long - it takes about an hour just to get from there to the Perugia area - another 45 minutes for Gubbio. We spent 3 weeks last fall just a few miles from where you will be staying and the furthest we wandered was to Panicale to the east and San Gimignano to the north.
A day in Siena is good - only 30-45 minutes away (but then you have to park and walk another 20 minutes to the center). A day in Pienza and Montepulciano and Montalcino (maybe Sant'Antimo too). A day at Monte Oliveto and then maybe Bagno Vignoi and some of the small towns in the area. A day to the south to Pitigliano. A day to the north to San Gimignano and maybe work in a visit to Chianti on that day. That is 5 days there. You could substitute Orvieto or Chiusi for one of these.
Plan for some nice long lunches on your outings and some long dinners. You can get your art fixes in Siena, Monte Oliveto, San Gimignano.
Sounds like a great trip. Take lots of notes for us all!!
Posts: 26611 | Location: Santa Fe, NM | Registered: 15 June 2001
You know..... we all knew that you were lurking and were just waiting for you to post -- we knew you would eventually!
Last summer, my party met up with Liz's in Volterra, spent the day there and then retreated in the late afternoon to San Gimignano, where we had dinner. That's one day's itinerary like that might work for you guys. Granted, it would be a pretty long day, but quite nice.
Cheers,
Posts: 4771 | Location: New York City | Registered: 15 June 2001
Thanks to all for the excellent comments. Looks like I can leave the Umbria guidebook at home! Pauline, I have read your"Tuscany To-Do's" and found them very helpful -- and motivating! I'm envious of all your travel time and am looking forward to taking those wonderful 4-6 week trips (and dropping the word 'vacation'from my vocabulary!)
I especially appreciate your posting of the chanting schedules for San Antimo (one of my favorite places) and Monte Oliveto. We missed the chanting at both on our previous trip ...not this time!
We will be in Tuscany the week of Sept. 21 - 28, and near Padua the prior week. If that works with anyone else's plans (Pauline -- I see you'll be in Vetralla that week), maybe we can set up a lunch.
When we get closer to the trip time, I will post to see who is going to be in Italy when we are - and maybe we can have some Slow Travelers Get Togethers!!
Posts: 26611 | Location: Santa Fe, NM | Registered: 15 June 2001
If you have the time try a drive through the Val di Chiana. Small towns such as Sinalunga, Lucignano (with its perfectly intact circular wall), Monte San Savino, Foiano della Chiana, and a town that we bumped into on our recent property inspection tour Civitella in Val di Chiana. In Civitella there is a very heart wrenching war memorial, with a very cool castle that you can explore. Circling back to the east and then south you can then reach Arezzo, Castiglion Fiorentino, and then Cortona. As popularized as Cortona has become with Francis M. we still find Cortona to be a gem in the Tuscany Umbria border, the drive from Cortona to Umbria is unforgettable, and if you want a good meal try Trattoria Etrusca on via Dardano in Cortona. After that a short drive up the hill will take you to "Le Celle di San Francesco", this is the place where St. Francis stayed after leaving Arezzo, and then back to Assisi where he died. Ok I could go on but I'll end this with a final note. Although we promote Chianti, as well as Southern Tuscany, we find the Val di Chiana to be a refreshing break from the usual Tuscan travels, take it SLOW and enjoy!
More later, John Ferrari
Posts: 19 | Location: Seattle | Registered: 31 May 2002
Minor correction, or better yet, refinement. St. Francis died in the comune of Assisi alright, but not in Assisi itself: rather in S. Maria degli Angeli in the plain. I bring it up because very few of all the hordes of tourists in Assisi go and see; more's the pity: a beautiful warren of frescoed rooms in the middle of a rose garden, and the Porziuncola -- the little chapel the saint repaired with his own hands, lovingly enshrined indoors (in an otherwise monstrous late classical basilica). Â Â Â So mobile (and as of 9 months ago, in actual decline) is the Web that of the three Porziuncola sites I listed on my churches of Assisi link page, all active in Oct 01, not one remains. Still, you can get a feeble idea of the Porziuncola and the Cappella del Transito by joining the Franciscan tour in midstream here and clicking thru several small pages.
Bill, Thanks for the refinement, I was hoping that someone would chime in and finish that bit of history. My dear friend Prof. Alberto Andreoli in Ferrara ( a church historian) would have lectured me no end for this Faux pas.
Ciao, John
Posts: 19 | Location: Seattle | Registered: 31 May 2002