We have to make this drive on a Saturday and arrive in the late afternoon to check into our apartment. I thought we would go to the west initially and through Perugia, maybe stopping for lunch there, but the roads from Ascoli Piceno to around Spello look very curvy. (Read 2 car sick adult children in the back seat). Via Michelin says to go back through Ancona but that it takes longer that way.
The most direct route from Ascoli would go through the new tunnel and come out near Norcia. As I remember, there were some curves leaving the tunnel but nothing particularly major. Once you get down to the valley floor near Norcia, the road is pretty level all the way to Spoleto (helped out by some new tunnels). From Spoleto on, the road is four lanes and moves quickly.
I drove from Ascoli Piceno to Norcia last year (and from Perugia to Ascoli Piceno via Lake Fiastra -- very curvy!) and then on to Montefalco.
Do you have time to make a side trip to the Piano Grande? If my memory serves me right (and it may not!) by the time you get out of that perfectly AWFUL tunnel -- sorry, but it's a nightmare if you are at all claustrophobic and driving -- it's not all that far uphill to the Piano Grande, which is so unforgettable.
I hope I'm not misleading you, because I'm not looking at a map as I type.
Many people recommended Norcia to me, but I'm afraid I have to report I couldn't wait to get out of there once I'd eaten my meal. The main church (which I visited before lunch) is interesting, however, for its strange treatment of its founder, St. Benedict. They basically did everything he asked them not to do, as I recall.
I passed a lot of small towns beyond Norcia, on the road to Spoleto/Umbria, and quite a few looked like might offer interesting lunches, especially the trout of the area. You might just leave your lunch decision to when you are hungry -- or in that little town up in the Piano Grande if you can make it there.
Assuming you leave Ascoli Piceno around 10.00 am you will be around Spello by 11.30 at the latest. Too early for lunch at Del Ponte at Cheggino (crayfish and/or truffles). Also noon at Pigge to early (Trout). I'd probably press on for a later lunch somewhere near Lake Trasimino. Maybe on the watefront at Passignano which puts you within an hour of Siena.
If you really must stop in Perugia, prepare for considerable traffic getting in and out of town (and probably half an hour getting in and another half hour getting out) and some confusion finding the parking stations etc. I think Perugia is an all day visit, not a lunch stop.
"The 'perfect marriage' of food and wine should allow for infidelity" - Roy Andries de Groot Moderation in Moderation
Thanks, Gavin. I was thinking the same thing about Perugia. Last time we were there we got really turned around getting out of town.
I really like your suggestion of Lake Trasimino--we've never seen it! Do you have a specific place in mind for lunch? I'll look at the ST reviews later, too.
I'm going to pile on and concur with the suggestion that Perugia is not a convenient destination for a lunch stop, just because of the difficulties of entering the town, finding a place to park, etc.
That's marvelous that you will have 4 days in Ascoli Piceno. It's got a wonderful ambience that is really hard to describe. Hope your plans for a day trip to the Piano Grande work out, too.
Jan, we only ever had picnics at Passignano and Castiglione on the western shore. Either check out the restaurants facing the lake or even take the ferry to Isola Maggiore where there are several excellent restaurants. The island is well worth visiting in it's own right.
If the weather is sunny, I'd picnic at Castiglione. A reasonable sandy beach, lawns with shade trees and a real Italian family feel with volleyball etc. The water is always warm. We had several relaxing afternoons lying around and just taking in the passing parade .... and dozing.
It's probably only an hour (and a bit)from Siena, so you can laze around and time your run into Siena for late afternoon.
Jan, When we were in Umbria last summer, we spent part of day in and around Lake Trasimeno and really enjoyed it. We took the ferry to Isla Maggiore and looked at the lace museum there. I can't recommend anyplace for lunch because we just stopped for a quick bit after the ferry ride (it was very hot and we were more thirsty than hungry) but there are some very nice restaurants in the area. Marcia
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(Read 2 car sick adult children in the back seat).
