Upon departing from a 2-week stay in Umbria I have three days before my plane departs from Rome. I don't want to spend any time in Rome at all except at the airport. I'm thinking I'll spend one day and night in Orvieto and then spend the last two nights in Civitavecchia, then take what I have read is a new train service directly from there to Fiumicino.

I've read posts on Fodors from a woman who is from Civitavecchia - she describes it as small and lovely. I know it's a big cruise port. I'm not a big beach person, but I would like to see a few palm trees, have a great seafood meal gazing out over the water, and not deal with the hustle and bustle of a big city before I head back to the States.

Would Civitavecchia fulfill my simple desires?

I haven't been to Civitavecchia, so I can't comment on that. I did notice that the train from there to Fiumicino isn't direct (you'll need to change at one of the Rome stations). Is there a new direct service I didn't see?

I think I'd be inclined to spend more time in Orvieto, unless you've spent time there before.

Oops! I just re-read your post and realized that you were looking for a sea view ... not exactly Orvieto's claim to fame.

Yes, ellens, I read on Fodors that there's a new service direct from Civitavecchia to Fiumicino that costs about 10 euros - not affiliated with Trenitalia. When I've done some more research on it, I'll post a link. Anyway, it seems like a great way to indulge my desire for a couple of days by the water and a quick way to get to the airport.

Never been to Civitavecchia but I have never heard about anyone visiting there except to get on a ship. There may well be some nice parts of town....I don't know...and I daresay you will not run into many foreign tourists.

The beach areas close to Rome are not known for their attractiveness although Tony Polzer from Three Millennia Tours in Rome (he posts here) has had some nice things to say about Santa Marinella just to the south. In fact, I believe he just moved there and will likely see your post and respond.

I would love to know more about the direct train from Civitavecchia to Fiumicino...there is no mention of it on the airport web site or the Civitavecchia web site and my search on Fodors didn't find anything. Perhaps when Tony chimes in he will be able to settle the question.

Hi M -
I haven't been to Civitavecchia either, but have you considered Fiumicino or Ostia instead? At Ostia you'd be close to the ruins at Ostia Antica (if that interests you), and I know we have some nice sounding beach-y hotel reviews on SlowTrav for that area. (Look in the Lazio region.)

Destinations near Rome

quote:

spend the last two nights in Civitavecchia, then take what I have read is a new train service directly from there to Fiumicino.

Still nothing on a train to Fiumicino but here is a fairly recent thread from Fodors about the Roma Express, that goes from the port to Stazione San Pietro.

Fodor's thread on Roma Express

And the Roma Express web site.
Roma Express

I've spent a few hours in Civitavecchia before catching a ferry, and it seemed to me like a bustling port city without much charm, but maybe there are attractive parts.

Hi
I live near Civitavecchia, from CVecchia there is the train to Rome then you will take another train to Fiumicino. it will need about 1 hour to Rome Termini and quite more then half hour to Fiumicino
the cost of the ticket to Rome is 4,10 Euro , from Rome to Fiumicino around 9 Euro?

Fontana, since you live in the area perhaps you could suggest some alternatives for St. Cirq, places that are quiet and have a water view, and that are accessible by public transport from Orvieto and from which one can easily get to the airport at Fiumicino, also by public transport.

What about Santa Marinella or Santa Savera? Would these fit the criteria?

A quick look at trenitalia.com indicates that the train from Orvieto to Civitavecchia requires you to go to Rome and change trains. Since that is the case, you can look at any of the coastal towns along the route (which includes the two I already mentioned).

If you do stay in Civitavecchia or S. Marinella, you can take the train to the airport changing at Trastevere or Ostiense stations in Rome instead of Termini; the latter would call for you to backtrack and pay a higher fare. From C.Vecchia on regional trains you can make the trip in 1 hr. 23 at a fare of €8.70. On the Trenitalia site, enter Roma Aeroporto as your destination.

about the train to Rome several train intercity fast train and regional that stop at any place.
Santa Marinella and Santa Severa is nice both.
Santa Severa each winter is going to be empty of lots roman tourists.
this area and the land around is interesting to visit as Tarquinia and Cerveteri for Etruscan tombs and Museums
Probably I'd prefere to stay in Tarquinia, nice and interesting town, before departure.
let me know
assuntina

I would pass on Civitavecchia. Civitavecchia although small is not a small town but more a small city. I personally love the town that I live in (Santa Marinella). I just moved here 6 weeks ago. It is a beautifull quiet seaside town. Lodging is very inexpensive during the non-summer season.

I have seen the Roma Express. It is a rather nice old-fashioned style train.

I have not heard anything about a Civitavecchia/Fiumicino express. But, if anyone does, please let me know. As I will be flying to the states in 1 months time.

If Orvieto and the seashore are your desires, I would think that the best way to move about is by inter-city bus--both from Orvieto to the coast and from the coast to (or near to) Fiumicino. Inter-city bus information is sometimes easier to find locally than on line.

I would also think about the Maremma coast (the Argentario or Talamone) for you seacoast experience....it is almost directly west of Orvieto.

If you can deal with a non-seacoast town in the area, I am partial to Tuscania, a pretty town slightly inland from Tarquinia.

Santa Marinella, Tolfa, Tarquinia, Tuscania...all wonderful places on and near the seaside and Etruscan sites.
Tony you must look up your neighbor Rose Hayden who edits the EYP Newsletter. I was featured in the summer...maybe its your turn now.
Benvenuto nella nostra zona.

I am a bit yet lagged, having just returned from Civittavecchia yesterday. Because we sometimes work on cruise ships, I have been in and out of there a number of times,usually spending the night. I personally would give the city a pass as a vacation spot. It is an industrial port city and is fairly grim. I did have a nice,relatively inexpensive meal there on the waterfront watching the town go by one summer evening, but surely there are nicer areas with better access to the water and closer to Fiumicino.

Lili

I personally wouldn't recommend 2 days in civitavecchia. there are much better places a little more in the north in tuscany: the argentario peninsula, castiglione della pescaia and others.

Or why not going to the Giglio island ? is a lovely small island, one hour ferry from porto santo stefano which is less than one hour train from civitavecchia (or maybe there is even a ferry directly from citavecchia)

quote:

Originally posted by StCirq:
Would Civitavecchia fulfill my simple desires?

In a word - No. Our friend the baptist minister in Rome was born and raised there. Mama still lives there. We went out to meet the family and spent 2 days there. Even with the added diversion of meeting family, the big meals, etc I wouldn't bother to return except possibly to get on a cruise ship. There are no sandy beachs or palm trees (at least that I saw).

My personal vote would be for Tarquinia - but then we are into ancient lives and the etruscan tombs would be an attraction for us. Since you are going to be in Umbria it would make sense for you to look at someplace like Tarquinia.

As mentioned both Ostia and Fiumicino (the town) do have seaside areas if you wanted to be close to Leonardo de Vinci airport.

Thanks all for your suggestions. Senility has definitely sunk in - the post I read on Fodors was about a new fast train from Civitavecchia to ROME, not Fiumicino.

I guess Civitavecchia is not a good choice. What I'd like is a place by the sea where I could relax for the last two days of my trip and from which I could easily get to Fiumicino by public transportation, although I am now acatually thinking that I could drive right to Fiumicino and not bother with public transport. I've driven a lot in Italy - I think I can handle dropping a rental car off at the airport!

I like the idea of Giglio Island as well as the seaside Etruscan towns. Will do more research. Thanks all for your great tips!

Sperlonga?

quote:

Sperlonga?

Sperlonga is nice....but it is way on the other side of Rome (closer to Naples in fact.). Not too convenient for the desired itinerary.

I just found this site giving a tour of the area from Civitavecchia to Civita Castellana that may be of interest.

http://www.romeartlover.it/Civita1.html

Lili

St.Cirq,Roberto Piperno's (artlover) photos and the map will give you an idea of the area. Some other easy driving itineraries in the area can be found on my site . Fontanadelpapa has been getting excellent reviews from people who stay there on their last night before take off for easy airport access. I'd forget about public transport and drop the car at the airport, dont forget to get a full tank of gas at the last gas station before dropping it off.

If you have decided to abandon your quest for a sea view, consider staying at B&B Fontana del Papa, not far from Tarquinia. It's is luxuriously comfortable, and so near the airport. We have reviewed it for this site.
Linda

Thanks, all, for the great suggestions and links. I'm still working on this but you have given me more than enough options to research. I definitely don't want to go as far as Sperlonga. For one thing I've already spent a couple of weeks all up and down the coast between Rome and Gaeta and inland, so that's not new territory for me (going back wouldn't exactly be a hardship, but I don't want to on this trip). Looks like I have lots of wondergul choices now, though. Thank you!