Planning to visit Assisi, Spello, Trevi, and Spoleto using public transportation in May/Jun 05.
Looking for opportunities for tours/tastings in these towns or on the outskirts that can be reached on foot or by bus.
Also welcome feedback on Torgiano and the wine museum there. Can that be reached by bus from Perugia? If so, do you think its too time consuming or not worth the effort for a 1st time visitor with only a few days to spend in the area?
I'm confused now. One source says the Olive Tree/Oil museum is in Trevi and another says its in Torgiano. Has it moved or are we talking about two different museums?
Although the better olive-growing area by far is Trevi, the better museum is almost certainly the one in Torgiano. As much as I like Trevi, I found the sub-section of the Trevi museum called the "olive oil museum" a bit less than it could be, although still informative. On the other hand, the 2 main — and fiercely competing — oil coöperatives of Trevi are both quite eager to tour you thru their presses (interesting mostly in season, i.e., winter), and Pro Trevi, volunteer tourist office right on the main piazza of Trevi, would be your one-stop point of contact for them both.
I haven't visited the Oil Museum in Torgiano, but it's an offshoot of the Wine Museum run by the Lungarotti family there, and the Wine Museum by all accounts is well worth seeing. The town of Torgiano, though, is quite disappointing; and, as mentioned, not in an important olive-growing area, for which the soil and terrain are not best suited; I imagine the museum is an extension of Lungarotti's successful marketing of themselves: mass producer of wine, then restaurant, then museum, then hotel . . . tomorrow the world!
While in Spello, do go by and enjoy a tasting at Properzio www.enoteche.it. The owners are very hospitable and have an excellent choice of wines, olive oils and regional foods.
"I am a Southerner. I like the feel of these words. I could no more be otherwise than I could shed my outer skin or change the color of my eyes." Willie Morris
Posts: 1455 | Location: on the Alabama River | Registered: 22 July 2002
I hardly ever drink Lungarotti wine, but the wine and oil museum in Torgiano is one of teh most professionally done in the whole region. The collection of Galenic recipes for wine as a medicine is just amazing. The collection of wine containers during the centuries, with a few delicate Venetian glass cups, is even better. As for wine tasting, it is difficult to reach most wineries by public transport, but you could go to the Enoteca comunale in Perugia (Via Ulisse Rocchi) and taste there all the regional wines. Osteria tre bicchieri in Via Baldeschi, Perugia, has also a decent collection of wines of wich many are available by the glass. It's a good place to start "researching" which of the local wines you like. Best Letizia
I visited the Adanti Winery - between Bevagna and Montefalco - in 2001: very welcoming and good tasting (it was "cash only" at that time and closes for a long lunch. Not a 'commercial' tasting, they just offer glasses of what you wish to try. No pressure to buy but the wine is good and not overpriced. Main products are Sagrantino and Sag.Passito, both an Umbrian speciality and quite 'tough' while young. May not be too easy without a car though, about 1.5km. on the road to Montefalco after the fork on the main road from Bevagna. Lungarotti at Torgiano I found overpriced and 'commercialised': the wine museum is v.interesting but the whole thing is a showcase for Sig.Lungarotti's collection. Montefalco is definitely worth visiting and there is an Enoteca in the main square. HTH!
Definitely go to Montefalco. The Sagrantino and the Rosso Montefalco are not to be missed. At the Info office they will give you a map of the vedita diretta wineries. We didn't have much time but stopped by Arnalo Caprai and another winery and enjoyed it very much. Its also such a beautiful area. Don't miss it.
Posts: 53 | Location: Montana | Registered: 04 November 2003
I have never had the Bea wines. But a wine buyer in NYC, who I really respect, loves them. I have yet to try them because this friend works for one of the great fish restaurants in the world. Who whould have a Sagrantino with wonderful fish? But if 6 or so of you want to meet up the next time we are in NYC we can split a bottle with their fabulous cheese course!
A. Caprai is one of Italy's wonderful wineries. Montefalco is a super wine growing area. The grape is indigenous and the winemaking wildly old fashioned. Someday I will spend a wonderful afternoon at the Enotecca there. Kay will ahve to be the designated driver!
Sagrantino is the indigenous grape. It is only grown in the area of Montefalco. It is early ripening and thick skinned. Wines made from fully ripe Sagrantino grapes are high in alcohol and very tannic. It is similar to zinfandel in that respect. Sangiovese and Bordeaux varietals are also planted.
Rosso di Montefalco is typically a blend of mostly sangiovese with some Sagrantino. They are a bargain. Unlike Rosso di Montalcino which is the same grape makeup as the Brunello, these wines are very different than the Sagrantino di Montefalco.
Sagrantino is mostly (or all) made fromt he Sagrantino grpae. It is often made from overripe grapes and undergoes long macerations to extract a lot of tannin. 15 or 16% natural alcohol is not uncommon. The best winereis use a lot of hand labor and modern equipment to make sure the tannins stay under control. They rigorously thin the crop to low yields and treat the grapes extremely gently to make sure that the tannins in the wine are the ripe and smoother tannins and not the hars ones extracted from more old fashioned wine making. This adds to the cost of a good Sagrantino.
Because of the extremely high potential alcohol in the grapes, Sagrantino's don't always ferment to complete dryness. So there may be a touch of residual sugar. In any case, the high alcohol will add a feeling of "sweetness" to the wine even if it is chemically speaking dry. Add to that the ripe fruit flavors present and you have quite a mouthful. These wines are best served with a very full bodied main course: game or something with a bit of spice so the "sweetness" offsets the strong flavors. I love them with a variety of pecorino of various ages.
There is also Passito di Sagrantino. This is a wine made from grapes dried on a mat until they begin to raisin. Wines made from this process are more or less portlike: high in alcohol, sweet and tannic. They are best used after dinner with a nice cheese course or on their own. They do make an interesting accompaniment to a spicy grilled sausage or a game pate.
Most of the bigger name wineries are now making wines that don't fit the existing DOC laws. They may be wines that are not aged according to the DOC requirements or thay may have unusual grape additions. A Caprai makes a wine called Outsider, which I have not yet tried, which is a play on words about being outside the DOC.
Just a few years ago, Sagrantino was a bargain. Now it is fabulously expensive. You can expect to pay over $50.00 and more for a good Sagrantino. Rosso are more likely to be $20.00 or so. Even in Italy, I paid €60 for Caprai '99 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni (His best selection all from grapevines over 25 years old).
Degas, if you're going to do wine in the 4 towns you mention, do it in Montefalco. I don't think Trevi produces any wine at all; Spello's wines are of no consequence; Assisi's are pleasant, but nothing to write home about — but Montefalco is the Umbrian jackpot, such as it is. Caprai, Adanti, Antonelli the best; but other producers. Follow Dean.
After falling in love with Umbria and Sagrantino in Jun of 04, I asked our local (very sophisticated not) sine store if they carried any. Of course, they said "no". Never even heard of it... When we went to Antonelli one of the things they said was to please ask for their wines in the states, so I have done my psrt. The local wine guy said he would look for some and let me know.
Also, Dean, I think it's interesting that you called Jeannew "Jeanne" I alway read her name as "Jean new"--like we had another Jean before. You're probably right though. Stretching the brain through slow trav--another benefit of hanging out here.
jgk, your wine merchant might have an easier time locating Colpetrone for you - it's an excellent Sagrantino produced by a large consortium, Saiagricola. Saiagricola also has land holdings in Tuscany that produce a wonderful Brunello, La Poderina and a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Fattoria del Cerro. The Colpetrone estate is near Gualdo Cattaneo.
Mauro Colonna, owner of the agriturismo Le Case Gialle, hosted a wonderful tasting for us last October and further educated us about the Sagrantino that we had so enjoyed on our first trip to Umbria in 2001. Mauro was proud to serve us in recently produced crystal wine glasses, Speigalau (sp?), I think - further evidence that Sagrantino has made its mark on the world scene.
Knowing we were headed home with Caprai and Bea wines, Mauro suggested we also try Colpetrone and stated it might be easier to find in America. And it has been for us. I live in a small town in rural Alabama and my wine merchant stocks it for me.
"I am a Southerner. I like the feel of these words. I could no more be otherwise than I could shed my outer skin or change the color of my eyes." Willie Morris
Posts: 1455 | Location: on the Alabama River | Registered: 22 July 2002
I'd agree with Sommelier & Bill about going to Montefalco. There are at least 3 enotecas in the main square: we went to L'Alchemista, who were very friendly and helpful. We actually just bought oil there, as I wanted to go direct to a vineyard to buy wine. Not that there's any saving buying direct: one of the other enoteche (there we are: 2 different plurals in one post ) was advertising the fact that their prices matched the direct sales'. But I was interested to see the properties; unfortunately my first choice, Arnaldo Caprai, had just shut for the day - but we bought some very decent bottles from Antonelli, close by.
BTW, L'Alchemista is co-hosting the Regione Umbria stand at the Salone del Gusto at the moment.
Jonathan
Posts: 2923 | Location: Stroud, UK | Registered: 18 November 2001
FWIW, "Villia Italia" in California is the importer of Caprai wines for the US. It's website lists wine stores that carry Caprai products or will order it for you.
degas, since your time is limited and you will be using public transport, I suggest making a reservation at Caprai if you wish to visit. As others have implied, it is not uncommon to find a winery closed for visit, especially during planting and harvest.
Here is an e-mail address I used recently to schedule a tour and tasting: santonini@arnaldocaprai.it.
The price is euro 5.
"I am a Southerner. I like the feel of these words. I could no more be otherwise than I could shed my outer skin or change the color of my eyes." Willie Morris
Posts: 1455 | Location: on the Alabama River | Registered: 22 July 2002
"I am a Southerner. I like the feel of these words. I could no more be otherwise than I could shed my outer skin or change the color of my eyes." Willie Morris
Posts: 1455 | Location: on the Alabama River | Registered: 22 July 2002
This is an old thread that I'm starting up again... I have 3 wineries in Montefalco in mind from which I would like to pick at least 1 possibly 2 to visit. I'm undecided! They are Paolo Bea winery (I have a phone # someone here posted but don't see a website), Arnaldo Caprai Winery and Ciacci Piccolomini. Castello Banfi in Montalcino looks wonderful but I am interested in the smaller wineries. I know Dean likes CP. Anyone else have any recommendations? While my husband and I would like to go to at least 2, I'm not sure my kids will go for that. Does anyone know how much these tours cost? Didn't see any prices on websites. Thank, Pat
You can contact Paola Bea by e-mail if you don't want to phone, bea@informanet.it. Also check the Sagrantino Wine Road site, www.stradadelsagrantino.it. It may be helpful although it's not updated frequently and is a bit spotty.
As for cost, I have never found the tours to cost more than 10 euro, unless you add a tasting of local meats/cheeses. I believe the Caprai tour is 5 euro.
And of course you know but just mis-typed,the city of Montalcino and Ciacci Piccolomini winery are in Tuscany and Caprai and Bea are near Montefalco in Umbria. It's easy to get all the Monte's mixed up.
"I am a Southerner. I like the feel of these words. I could no more be otherwise than I could shed my outer skin or change the color of my eyes." Willie Morris
Posts: 1455 | Location: on the Alabama River | Registered: 22 July 2002
Topic Closed
I visited the Adanti Winery - between Bevagna and Montefalco - in 2001: very welcoming and good tasting (it was "cash only" at that time and closes for a long lunch. Not a 'commercial' tasting, they just offer glasses of what you wish to try. No pressure to buy but the wine is good and not overpriced. Main products are Sagrantino and Sag.Passito, both an Umbrian speciality and quite 'tough' while young. May not be too easy without a car though, about 1.5km. on the road to Montefalco after the fork on the main road from Bevagna. Lungarotti at Torgiano I found overpriced and 'commercialised': the wine museum is v.interesting but the whole thing is a showcase for Sig.Lungarotti's collection. Montefalco is definitely worth visiting and there is an Enoteca in the main square. HTH!
not) sine store if they carried any. Of course, they said "no". Never even heard of it...
) was advertising the fact that their prices matched the direct sales'. But I was interested to see the properties; unfortunately my first choice, Arnaldo Caprai, had just shut for the day - but we bought some very decent bottles from Antonelli, close by.