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Slow Traveler
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We would like to visit the Appian Way during our Rome trip next month, and I had planned on using the Archeobus. But, on looking at their site I see that the first bus is at 9:45!! This is really late for us...I'd like to get a much earlier start. But, it looks like taking a regular bus is pretty complicated (the 118, which travels that route, seems to start around the Colisseum so we'd first have to make our way there...and there's no metro stop anywhere near where we are staying.)

And, from what I can see about the Archeobus its necessary to buy a ticket at the start...you can't buy one mid-route. So we couldn't use it just for the return.

So my question is this...if we take a cab to somewhere along the Appian way...as Bill Thayer suggests in his diary report...is there a place we'd be able to find a cab to return?

Worst case scenario I suppose we'd take that first Archeobus but it kills me to lose the best part of the morning when its cooler and less crowded and the birds are singing!


Janet
My photos of Italy, Birds, and other travels:
www.jczinn.com
Travel Note: Travelling with a Digital Camera
 
Posts: 2284 | Location: Brooklyn NY | Registered: 10 March 2002Report This Post

Gathering Hero

Slow Traveler
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Janet, we used the Archeobus and did not enjoy the experience at all. See my comments on it ARCHEOBUS about half way down the page. It may just have been a bad day but would never use it again. One trip we took the city bus to the beginning and then just wallked and eventually got back on it. That worked fine but it was several years ago. It did not appear to me that with the Archeobus you could just start it at any time but maybe I just wasn't aware of that option. The one good thing I can say about it is that it does take you around to the aquaducts and other sights.
 
Posts: 8118 | Location: San Diego, CA | Registered: 26 June 2001Report This Post

Slow Traveler
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I don't know if you read our plan.We plan to start at the "far" end of the road and walk back towards town.We will walk or take a taxi to the metro then go to the stop Bill Thayer suggests Capannelle or what I was thinking earlier S.M. Delle Mole.We will have Camelbacks,
water and some food as well as a change of clothes.Start at perhaps 8am(arrive at "end" then)and to get to Lunch at around 2 PM.We are going to this rather nice place for our 12th anniversary.I think it is possible to get Archeobus tickets in advance if so I may get our hotel to get tickets in case we need them,or want to get on the bus.I don't think it that expensive,10 Euro? or so.RR
 
Posts: 8842 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Report This Post

Slow Traveler
Picture of Bill Thayer
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Maybe I'm misunderstanding you Robert — but — for plannig purposes — le Capannelle and S. Maria delle Mole are not on the Metro line: they're on the suburban train to Velletri.
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Report This Post

Founder

Slow Traveler
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We took a taxi to the start of the Appian Way, closest to the historic center, walked for about an hour and got to a main road, could not find a bus stop, then called a cab.
 
Posts: 26647 | Location: Gloucestershire | Registered: 15 June 2001Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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Robert, I did see your plan but that's way too much walking for us Smile We would like to start where Bill suggested, at the Domine Quo vadis? and walk until we have had enough...then return.

Pauline,calling a cab might be a problem since we won't have a phone! That's why I was wondering if there was anywhere along the way where cabs might be available. Or perhaps a restaurant which would call one for us.

But, Robert did give me an idea. Perhaps I can buy the Archeobus tickets the day before...if that's possible then we can take a cab earlier in the a.m., but use the ticket to continue, and return. That could work well! But..would the ticket only be good the day you purchase it? Does anyone know?


Janet
My photos of Italy, Birds, and other travels:
www.jczinn.com
Travel Note: Travelling with a Digital Camera
 
Posts: 2284 | Location: Brooklyn NY | Registered: 10 March 2002Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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Okay, problem potentially solved. Digging a little deeper I found some other sites that mention that theoretically, at least, you can purchase tickets on board, at any stop...as long as the bus isn't full. So in theory we can cab out and get the Archeobus later, to return. Since we won't be going on a weekend, hopefully the buses won't be full.

also one site mentioned that in summer the first bus may leave an hour earlier...at 9. This won't be summer, but who knows...maybe they will start the summer hours in April. I guess we'll just get more information once we are there.


Janet
My photos of Italy, Birds, and other travels:
www.jczinn.com
Travel Note: Travelling with a Digital Camera
 
Posts: 2284 | Location: Brooklyn NY | Registered: 10 March 2002Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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Janet where are exactly are you staying? I can let you know if there is a taxi stand near by. In addition taxis are generally not that hard to flag down. You can easily take a cab out there and walk the route doing an out and back. On the way back, after you pass the Catacombs of St. Sebastian on your left, you will then see one of the entrances for the Catacombs of St. Calistus on your left as well. Shotly thereafter there will be a street to your right. Hang a right on this street (a very sharp backwards right) and 30 yards on your left will be the bus stop for the 118 heading back into Rome. It will be easy to find, there is always people waiting there who have just finished visiting the catacombs. This bus will take you past the Baths of Caracalla and then it will hang a left in front of the Circus Maximus and it will stop at the Circo Massimo Metro stop.
 
Posts: 1541 | Location: Rome, Italy; Zagreb, Croatia | Registered: 12 February 2003Report This Post

Slow Traveler
Picture of Bill Thayer
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Janet, you only have a problem if you intend to see a fair amount of the Appia and something (for example, including weather) prevents you from walking 10+ km. Like Tony says, the staging area for all the transportation is the bivio at the Catacombs.

For this kind of "walk from a springboard", you have three options:
  • A walk out and a walk back: the simplest, but not the best use of your time and energy. Obviously, it cuts in half the total distance you will be able to walk.
  • A walk out and something — very likely the train — back. Here, you have to make sure you get to that train station.
  • A big springboard, i.e., taxi out quite far — then walk back to the bivio; what I think of now as "Robert's solution".

The problem vanishes if you just do the first coupla miles, say out to the Tomb of Caecilia Metella. There are lots of things to see, however, after that, and — precisely because of these problems — the crowd thins out to empty road, making for a much nicer walk. To the Villa of the Quintilii is maybe sufficient: it's about 5 miles. With time and energy, and good weather, you can go on to Mile 9, to the Tomb of Gallienus, which is behind Ciampino airport.
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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Tony--we are staying on via Pellegrino--a couple of doors down from Lot 87, if you may recall. I am sure there must be a taxi stand somewhere close by...?

Bill, doing the full road, as robert is doing, is more walking than we'd want to do...that's why the archeobus seems so tempting, because we could walk the first part, and then hop on and take it down to the aqueducts or somewhere in between (Villa Quintilli perhaps)

It does seem like we have more options than I thought. We are not constrained by a specific date, so we'll go when the weather is good..assuming we don't get a week of rain! (bite my tongue!) I am still thinking taxi out to some specific midway point, walk for awhile, then catch the archeobus to either go further out, or return, depending on time etc. If there's enough time maybe even get off the archeobus at the Baths of Caracalla before coming all the way back.


Janet
My photos of Italy, Birds, and other travels:
www.jczinn.com
Travel Note: Travelling with a Digital Camera
 
Posts: 2284 | Location: Brooklyn NY | Registered: 10 March 2002Report This Post

Slow Traveler
Picture of Robert Rainey
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Bill, I wasn't distinguishing the metro from the train.It is on the public transportation route.I assume one ticket is all that is needed?
Or is there a charge for transferring? RR
 
Posts: 8842 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Report This Post

Slow Traveler
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Robert, train and metro are completely separate. The train to le Capannelle, Ciampino, and S. Maria delle Mole is a Trenitalia line: the line to Velletri, among the trains from Termini (upstairs, not in the basement), ticket purchase from Trenitalia. If things haven't changed, the departure platform for the Velletri commuter line is #24 or #25, i.e. the little spur platform way out on the right, for which you have to allow an extra 6‑10 minutes walk time inside Termini station.

Janet, the "Robert solution" need not involve more walking: it's just the reverse direction, and thus — its great advantage — the certainty of having transportation back, when you're tired; you wind up at the Bivio, where, as Tony says, you can get a bus, or (my guess, only a guess) find a cab pretty easily. Taking the train out to le Capannelle puts you roughly at the level of the Villa Quintiliorum. Robert himself, as I understand him, will probably take the train farther out, that's all.
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Report This Post

Slow Traveler
Picture of Robert Rainey
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I checked the Trenitalia site.The commuter line from Termini to S. M. Delle Mole is a 20 minute ride.Bill are you saying that the commuter lines are on one level and the long distance lines on another? If so from the entrance how to get to the commuter lines? Also how much for a taxi from our hotel near Piazza Navona and termini? RR
 
Posts: 8842 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Report This Post
Slow Traveler
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Janet,

We also desire to visit the aquaducts. If I'm reading the park map correctly the 118 bus can be boarded at the Bivio Bill references and taken to within a half mile walk of the aquaducts. The bus stop is near Quarto Miglio on the park map, it appears to be the third stop after departing the bus stop Tony references. Walking east from there brings you to the aquaduct area and information center. After spending time there it is about a three block walk northeast to the Metro line which would take you right back into downtown Rome. Just another option.

Cheers
 
Posts: 240 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 June 2004Report This Post

Slow Traveler
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quote:
Originally posted by Robert Rainey:
are you saying that the commuter lines are on one level and the long distance lines on another?
Robert, the metro lines are in the "basement" of Termini, the long distance and local trains leave from the street level platforms. Bill's point is that the particular platform he referenced is at the very south end of the station and doesn't come as far forward as the other tracks, so it is a slightly longer walk.


ellen
 
Posts: 4398 | Location: mahwah, new jersey, usa | Registered: 10 December 2003Report This Post

Slow Traveler
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thank You,How much for the Taxi ride from Piazza Navona to Termini which is about 2km.RR
 
Posts: 8842 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Report This Post

Slow Traveler
Picture of Bill Thayer
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Ellens has it right; with one small but not insignificant amendment though: the distance inside the station is not "slightly" more, but a full 4 city blocks' worth. The red arrow marks the beginning of the Velletri platform, that notched place in the original map:


I've missed trains at least twice here; when you take into account the actual distance inside the station and the fact that you're competing with a crowd of people, you do need to allow 10 minutes before the scheduled departure. If you know your way around the station, you can get that cab to deliver you to the baggage doors on the Via Giolitti, something like half the way down the long stretch.

B
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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From your apartment here are your taxi stand options:

1. at Chiesa Nuova there is a very tiny taxi stand
2. at the top end of Navona there is a larger stand
3. at Largo Argentina there is an even larger stand. This is by far your best option due to distance and number of taxis.

From the Appia Antica / Catacombs area getting a taxi back into Rome is very difficult without a cell phone. Your best bet is to stand one of the entrances to one of the catacombs and grab a cab from someone who is getting dropped off at the location.
 
Posts: 1541 | Location: Rome, Italy; Zagreb, Croatia | Registered: 12 February 2003Report This Post

Slow Traveler
Picture of Robert Rainey
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I don't need a taxi while on the Appian way.I was considering taking one from our place near Piazza navona to the train station to save time.
Then taking the train to perhaps Santa Maria Delle Mole then walking back to the Porto San Sebastiano(on the appian Way of course)between these two landmarks it is about 10 miles or
16km.I havn't considered how to get back from Porto San Sebastiano to Piazza Navona,my guess is we will amble back through Rome,if exausted we will get a cab. My question-How much would the cab be from Piazza navona to the Termini station? RR
 
Posts: 8842 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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thanks Tony for the cab info. At this point I am thoroughly confused about what to do Big Grin I think we will just play it by ear...but still leaning towards the original plan...take a cab out...and either the archeobus or public bus back...I'm sure we'll get back eventually! I've never heard any stories about someone being stranded forever on the Appian Way...lost in some kind of time warp...transported back to ancient Rome... If you don't hear from us after a while, send out the search party! Happy


Janet
My photos of Italy, Birds, and other travels:
www.jczinn.com
Travel Note: Travelling with a Digital Camera
 
Posts: 2284 | Location: Brooklyn NY | Registered: 10 March 2002Report This Post

Slow Traveler
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quote:
Originally posted by Robert Rainey:
.. My question-How much would the cab be from Piazza navona to the Termini station? RR


About the same as a glass of brunello Happy Martini
 
Posts: 8352 | Registered: 16 March 2003Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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Yeah that is about accurate. I would say from Navona to Termini would cost no more then 8 euros. But probably something like 5-7.
 
Posts: 1541 | Location: Rome, Italy; Zagreb, Croatia | Registered: 12 February 2003Report This Post

Slow Traveler
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Posts: 8842 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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I just found this really great site with a wealth of pictorial information about Appia Antica as well as other Rome walks. The site is kinda badly designed but the deeper I dig the more neat stuff I find...I think I will post this seperately, but for the Appian Way stuff start here:

Rome Art Lover


Janet
My photos of Italy, Birds, and other travels:
www.jczinn.com
Travel Note: Travelling with a Digital Camera
 
Posts: 2284 | Location: Brooklyn NY | Registered: 10 March 2002Report This Post
Slow Traveler
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Does anyone know if there is a modern guidebook for the sights along the Appian Way?

I saw the book Robert mentioned and found it on Amazon ("The Appian Way, a journey" by Hamblin) along with one that is an interesting sounding history of the road, "The Appian Way:From Its Foundation to the Middle Ages" by Ivana Della Portella. But I wondered if there is a modern day guide for the tourist. This sounds like a fascinating thing to do, but it would be great to have descriptions of what you are seeing along the way.
 
Posts: 320 | Location: Murfreesboro, TN USA | Registered: 10 August 2003Report This Post
Slow Traveler
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Oops

Robert I just saw that you mentioned the book on the history of the road also. I bookmarked all the websites mentioned, but was still hoping someone knew of a published modern guidebook.
 
Posts: 320 | Location: Murfreesboro, TN USA | Registered: 10 August 2003Report This Post
Slow Traveler
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Rome Tourism has a color brochure of many of the sites along the Appian Way here. The brochure is difficult to print out as you will see once you download the 2MB file. If you or someone you know are creative with Acrobat you can get a nice hand held copy. I found it great reading for my limited "tourist knowledge" of the area. I assume the same brochure will be available at the information office of the park, although I don't know that for sure. Janets link has some great photos and brief descriptions of some of the churches, tombs and pine trees along the road. Look here. I got sucked into the link for over an hour yesterday afternoon, great site, thank you Janet! Almost as addicting as Bill's site, but not quite.

Hope these are of use.
 
Posts: 240 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 June 2004Report This Post

Slow Traveler
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"The Appian Way from it's foundation to the middle ages" does have current information,
photos and descriptions.Available for 25 dollars on amazon.But it is a little large to carry along as that sort of guidebook.RR
 
Posts: 8842 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Report This Post

Slow Traveler
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Many books and guides have been written on the Via Appia, or containing sections or material on the road. Either such a guide will be very detailed, and thus bulky to carry, probably difficult to reference, and more than what us casual tourists want; or it will be grossly superficial but convenient: that's the basic alternative.

For my money, the best overall book written for the intelligent layman is the Grunefeld-Hamblin book; full of good stories, nicely readable, human interest, yet accurate information. It covers the entire Appia all the way to Brindisi, mind you. (The Appian Way, a journey • Dora Jane Hamblin [and] Mary Jane Grunsfeld • New York, Random House [1974], 308pp. • ISBN 0394472330)

People with specialized interests will dive into the endless, minutely detailed scholarly literature. The rest of us, certainly for the purpose of wandering around looking at the road, can comfortably make do with any number of guidebooks. My TCI goes on for 14pp of fine print, with several maps — not counting a further five or ten pages on the nearby Via Latina, the Caffarella area, etc.

And speak of websites, one of the many, many things I need to get to, is a decent site on the Appia; my site just has small dribs on it. . . .

Bill

Gazetteer of Rome
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Report This Post
Slow Traveler
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Grazie al tutti for the feedback.

I am trying to print out the brochure, but you are right its tricky. I think I will invest in the Grunefeld-Hamblin book- I love history so the details are great with me!
 
Posts: 320 | Location: Murfreesboro, TN USA | Registered: 10 August 2003Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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UPDATE:

We just returned from Rome and walked the Appian way for six hours with NO sign of the Archeobus! Well actually we saw a sign, but no bus. I am not sure it is actually running. However, it was very easy to do without it. We first took a taxi to the tomb of Cecila Metella--from Largo Argentina the cost was about 15 euros with morning traffic (9 am). We walked as far as Via Tor Carbone, and then back to the Catacombs of San Callisto. Had a nice picnic lunch at some spot, but there is also a cafe/shop at the intersection of Via C. Metalla to get snacks and they have a restroom which anyone can use (although we did buy water afterwards, no one stopped us using the restroom.) It was just around 2:15 when we approached the Catacombs and my thinking was that people may be arriving by taxi (since they reopened at 2:30) and we could catch one back. Indeed, we first saw one taxi from afar and missed it as it turned around; but within a five minute wait another taxi arrived (actually empty) and picked us up. The return trip to Largo Argentina cost 11 Euros (less traffic.)

So bottom line I think its not too hard to find a taxi at the head of the walk around the Catacombs. We did have a cell phone and had intended to call for one if necessary, but it wasn't required.

Also, as noted by others it is really not necessary to do this on a Sunday because even on a weekday there is little, if any traffic. Just the occasional car and more often, motorcycle--a warning, the motorcycles and also bicycles drive on the running/walking path to avoid the bumpy cobblestones...runners and walkers have to get out of their way. On a weekday early morning there were hardly any other people along this route although by the time we left in the afternoon there were considerably more.

By the way, the walk was absolutely gorgeous...a beautiful spring day, we saw tons of birds (as we are birders this was one reason we wanted to do this walk); and a big flock of sheep complete with sheepdogs and shepherd (photos TK). A very relaxing respite from the hectic city!


Janet
My photos of Italy, Birds, and other travels:
www.jczinn.com
Travel Note: Travelling with a Digital Camera
 
Posts: 2284 | Location: Brooklyn NY | Registered: 10 March 2002Report This Post
Slow Traveler
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quote:
Originally posted by Robert&Kerri:
Janet,

We also desire to visit the aquaducts. If I'm reading the park map correctly the 118 bus can be boarded at the Bivio Bill references and taken to within a half mile walk of the aquaducts. The bus stop is near Quarto Miglio on the park map, it appears to be the third stop after departing the bus stop Tony references. Walking east from there brings you to the aquaduct area and information center. After spending time there it is about a three block walk northeast to the Metro line which would take you right back into downtown Rome. Just another option.

Cheers


Acquedotti !
Nothing easier than reaching the acquedotti park in Rome.
Take the line A of the underground and get out at Giulio Agricola , 5 mins walking and you ll be in the park. You won't find tourists ( it s really a well kept secret the park!) thats why im surprised you mentioned it !
and from there have a walk in via Tuscolana, a not-touristic at all shopping way !
ciao
Angelo
 
Posts: 114 | Location: Rome, Italy | Registered: 17 January 2005Report This Post

Slow Traveler
Picture of Bill Thayer
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Wow is this board a valuable resource. Grazie per l' utilissima informazione, Angelo.

Bill

Gazetteer of Rome
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Report This Post
Slow Traveler
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Angelo, Thank you for the confirmation. It looks like we will be approaching the park from the opposite direction. Nice to know it's a short walk to the Metro. We can alsways catch a cab from the Bivio if the bus becomes too confusing to figure out.

Janet,

Did you do the catacomb tour? We are trying to figure out if we are going to have enough time in the later afternoon to spend a few hours in the National Museum after we take the Metro back into Rome from Aquaduct Park. We will get out to Via Appia early too. The museum stays open to 7pm so we are hopring to not have to schedule another time slot to see the mosiacs in the museum.

Do you feel 9 to 2:30 was plenty of time there? Sounds like you had a grand time. Smile
 
Posts: 240 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 June 2004Report This Post


Slow Traveler
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We didn't do the catacombs...we had intended to, but the timing just didn't work out, as they are closed from 12:-2:30 and while it was probably around 2:10 when we caught our cab back, we just didn't feel like waiting and it was such a beautiful day we didn't feel inclined to spend any time underground Smile

We did quite a slow walk and were birding along the way..which is why it took so long...if one wasn't stoping to look at every bird in the trees and fields I think we could have walked much further. I'm sure if you are only walking one way you could easily go from 9-2 or so and have plenty of time to get back to town and hit the museum (if you had any energy left!)

My first goal when getting back to town was a beeline for gelato Gelato


Janet
My photos of Italy, Birds, and other travels:
www.jczinn.com
Travel Note: Travelling with a Digital Camera
 
Posts: 2284 | Location: Brooklyn NY | Registered: 10 March 2002Report This Post
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