We're heading back to Italy next May and I thought each trip would be easier to plan... afterall we should know where we want to go back and what we haven't seen yet, right? Well, it seems to be harder than ever. The more we see of Italy, the more we realize we haven't seen.
So, we're thinking about Umbria... we once stayed in an Agriturismo near Baschi and we've daytripped Orvieto, Civita di Bagnoregio, Assisi, and Deruta. Clearly there is a lot more to see and it couldn't hurt to devote a week to Umbria.... but where to base ourselves? A friend mentioned that Trevi is very nice. And after a search of the message board, I am definitely leaning toward Trevi, but could use a little more info.
From what I gather (mostly from the wonderful postings by Bill), Trevi has great restaurants, views and is good for those without a car. We will have a car, though. So, is it still a good base? Is it reasonably easy to drive into and out of town, find parking and that sort of thing? Or are we better off looking into Bevagna or Montefalco?
A little more background, which may or may not be relevant: on this trip we will also be staying for a week in Tuscany right outside of Montepulciano (have booked Sant Antonio). And we are thinking of staying 5-7 days on the Ligurian Coast (possibly Camogli). The tentative itinerary is to fly into Milan (via Paris) and train to Genoa and then Camogli. Then train to Florence to meet up with friends for a few days (I want to take a cooking class) and then pick up a car and spend a week in Tuscany, then Umbria/Trevi(?) and then drop the car and spend the last few nights in Rome and then fly back.
Any and all suggestions welcome.... -Krista
Posts: 1716 | Location: Santa Barbara, California | Registered: 21 May 2004
I don't fine Trevi to be a difficult town with a car. I do love the town. If you wanted to put down roots and stay put, it would be a great town to do that. It is also in a good location fro visiting much of central and southern Umbria. Towns to consider for day trips would be Spello, Spoleto, Bevagna, Todi & Narni (two of my favorites). It is also pretty easy to dip your toe into northern Lazio and Marche from Trevi.
Deborah Horn In a previous life I was an Umbrian sunflower farmer. I want to do a past life regression and stay there. ----------------------------------- www.petsburg.com My blog: Old Shoes - New Trip
Posts: 5808 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: 04 September 2001
A page covering, more or less adequately, accessibility questions for the 92 principal towns of Umbria can be found here: Trevi is fine despite towering over the valley. Getting to know the town in any serious way is another matter, you need a good pair of legs — or four legs, of course, if there's two of you.
Because if its elevated location, driving in and out of Trevi involves more hairpin curves than Bevanga or Montefalco. It is perched, serene and high above the main highway, the Flamminia which can get you quickly to Spoleto and the galleria to the Valnerina and Norcia. Unless they have redone the highway since 01, the Flamminia in that area has unrestricted access, 3 lanes with center lane for left turns only. However, several times I have been confronted by speeding cars using it for a passing lane. This is not to discourage you from staying in the town, just to advise caution when driving.
Thanks for bringing up the subject. I hadn't planned to visit Trevi on my upcoming trip but am now waxing nostalgic. The olive oil museum and visiting at least one local olive oil producer is a must. Enjoy Jeanne (7 days to Buonconvento)
Posts: 510 | Location: Pennsylvania, USA | Registered: 07 March 2003
quote:Originally posted by Jeannew: Unless they have redone the highway since 01, the Flamminia in that area has unrestricted access, 3 lanes with center lane for left turns only.
Yes, they have built a new road! It doesn't even appear on the 2004 TCI road map - but the SS3 is now dual carriageway (is that a Brit-specific term? Anyway, 2 lanes in each direction, with a central reservation) all the way down to Spoleto.
The advantage is that the old main road S from Trevi is now very quiet - so places like Taverna del Pescatore, and the Tempio & Fonte del Clitunno (all of which we visited earlier this month: I really must get down to that trip report...) are all nicely removed from the trafiic noise.
And it's now even quicker from Trevi to Norcia!
Jonathan
Posts: 3537 | Location: Stroud, UK | Registered: 18 November 2001
Yes, they have built a new road! The advantage is that the old main road S from Todi is now very quiet - so places like Taverna del Pescatore, and the Tempio & Fonte del Clitunno (all of which we visited earlier this month: I really must get down to that trip report...) are all nicely removed from the trafiic noise.
And it's now even quicker from Todi to Norcia!
Jonathan
Great news! I felt like I was taking my life in my hands exiting from the Fonte parking lot. I had the good fortune to be the only visitor there in Feb.,such a serene place even with the traffic noise. Now the Taverna di Pescatore might be a good overnight stop. Thanks for the info. Jeanne
Posts: 510 | Location: Pennsylvania, USA | Registered: 07 March 2003
Thank you all.... I am really getting excited about visiting Trevi. I am waiting to hear from a friend about an apartment that he stayed in - hope that works out. Because, I haven't come across much in the way of accomodations in Trevi... I didn't see a single review for an apartment in Trevi... am I missing something?
-Krista
Posts: 1716 | Location: Santa Barbara, California | Registered: 21 May 2004
Maybe no one on board has stayed in any. The "Ricettività" pages at ProTrevi list 8 hotels, 17 agriturismi, 9 vacation apartment outfits, though. I've only had experience of one of the hotels.
The olive oil museum is basically one large room; it's not Trevi's best feature. On the other hand visits to producers are available, I'm told; if I don't know more about them, it's because I'm not particularly interested: thank Heaven people are different.
And a slip by Jonathan above:
quote:old main road S from Todi
-- you mean S from Trevi, of course; for any lurkers, Todi is due west of Norcia, and a good deal farther away.
KHB, as much as I have enjoyed visiting Trevi, I would chose another city or perhaps the countryside for a week's rental. Bill gave you a gentle hint about needing good legs. A visit to many of Umbria's charming towns will give your calves and glutes a good workout, but Trevi and Spello cause (at least for me) a bit more exertion.
You don't mention your dates, but late May brings the open cantine where you can taste Umbria's wonderful Sagrantino wine. Either Montefalco or Bevagna would be a good, central locale, in my opinion, for wine tastings and for ease in reaching the highways for more touring of the region. And both cities are a bit more foot friendly.
I am not up to date about apartment recommendations on this site, but I know that the agriturismi Le Case Gialle (near Montefalco), Madonna della Piatto and Brigolante (near Assisi)have all received excellent reviews here.
I am returning to Umbria in October and will, of course, visit Trevi and my much loved Spello. But I am also doing a bit of pre-trip training on my treadmill with a lot of incline -just for Umbria.
"I am a Southerner. I like the feel of these words. I could no more be otherwise than I could shed my outer skin or change the color of my eyes." Willie Morris
Posts: 1548 | Location: on the Alabama River | Registered: 22 July 2002
If you do want to be in the countryside rather than in a town, I'd enthusiastically second Bp's recommendation of le Case Gialle: in the hills between Bevagna and Gualdo Cattaneo. We had a week there earlier this month.
Jonathan
Posts: 3537 | Location: Stroud, UK | Registered: 18 November 2001
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