Detroit Free Press has a very good article on non-touristy backstreet Beijing, with tips on hip spots from Cui Jian, no less.

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Travel
BOHEMIAN BEIJING: Get off the beaten path of the Forbidden City and Great Wall with unique, low-cost alternatives
August 12, 2007

BEIJING -- If you're planning a trip to Beijing for the 2008 Summer Olympics, but you fear you may tire of Olympic fever and flag-waving throngs, don't despair. Beijing has rich offerings when it comes to art, music, boutiques and quiet temples.

Most of the capital city's guided tours are about awe and acquisition. Visitors are stunned by the Forbidden City, the Great Wall and Tiananmen Square, then quickly shuttled to buying sprees at the Pearl Market or Silk Street. Few can resist the temptation. It is usually followed by a belly-busting Peking duck feast.

Continue reading at Detroit Free Press

You can also find it at the IHT website

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Marta,

Many do Beijing on a tour and they all see the same bits. There is a lot to see just by wandering around the city on your own.