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WT

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I have been to Baku when it was part of the former USSR, I have been to Egypt ( breifly),shared dinner with a family in Mexico who had a dirt floor and I have even been to Haiti , but Morocco was very different than any other place that I have been too.

We stayed at beautiful Riads in the medina section of Fez and Marrakech and were enriched by that and our entire stay, but much preferred the desert experience.

We were totally blown away by our experience with http://www.nomadsaharabivouacmerzouga.com/

as they took such good care of us. Allessandra is an amazing women who now gives the kind of special desert tour that she looked for when she came here many years ago and could not find. The Sahara night in the desert can be a life changing experience ( even for someone who has done bungie jumping in South Africa...which she had). In fact it was such a powerful experience for her that she ended up staying, marrying a real Berber Nomad and raising a child here!!

This is amazing when one realizes that she was born,raised and college educated in a city her whole life and left her comfortable life and job in a big ad agency, as she is an idealist who was touched by the purity,beauty, simplicity and innocence here.She and her husband and his family made the experience very profound for us.

Taking a camel trek ( or in my case a quad because I have mobility challenges and did not want to risk dislocating my knee and ending up in a wheel chair for months) and spending the night in the Sahara was never on our list of "must do's", but we are so very grateful that we found this woman and family and had this special experience.

Mozart rode in on a camel with the Sahara dunes as the backdrop for her concert with 50 beautiful,very excited Berber children in traditional clothes ( those that could afford owning them).That was another breathtaking moment that we will never forget.We bought lots of fruit for them to enjoy in the garden afterwards.

There is waaaay too much to explain here and Morocco is the most rich photo op place on the planet. So I will soon upload some on our blog and the many exciting stories/trip report of our adventure.

Another highlight was taking a Hamman together with Mozart in the oldest Hamman in Essoauira which is as close as one can get to experiencing the Roman baths they say.We both got a traditional massage by local ladies.

The creativity,craftsmen, warm people and beauty in this country is amazing and it was easier than I expected, but it is also a harsh country and not for the feint of heart ( especially a long trip like ours or with a young child). I would not like to do slow travel there,but it is an exciting place that everyone should see.

We also loved the Kasbah experience nearby the World Heritage Site Ait Benhaddou. The one we stayed at
was wonderful.

We were not crazy about Marakech, tho we glad that we saw it.We had some wonderful food there at our Riad.

Fez medina was overwhelming at first site ( our first stop after many,many hours starting at 4 am in Malaga via bus,ferry,train and several taxi's) but very interesting with our wonderful,enthusiastic host who has a PhD in Architecture and see's the beauty everywhere. We felt very nurtured at our riad Dar Seffarine and all of its glory. ( Yes, it is number 1 in trip advisor for very good reasons).

It is our first family travel into Africa and a more exotic and risky choice for us, but we are all very glad that we went and did it like we did. That said, It was also REALLY nice to get back to civilization. We flew out of Marrakech to Madrid ( after a cat fight right in the airport in Morocco!! ) after many delays ( getting us in at 3 am).

We had a lot of wonderful food in Morocco,but we were very cautious as we did not want to get sick as so many do.We stuck with the peel it , cook it or don't eat it rule and even were careful not to get shower water in our mouths. It was wonderful to not have to worry so much again and we loooved our first great meal at Botin in Madrid.

It is great to go to Morocco and it is great to come back! Wink One is much richer from the experience and Mozart loved all of it. Yes it can be done with a child and with mobility challenges...even a night in the desert with the right people. We planned the whole trip via internet and did not have a guide take us in. It was much easier than I expected and we did not run into any touts even when we arrived in Tagiers off the ferry.

We will be back!!
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: from SF,living in Europe on RTW trip | Registered: 31 January 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi WT!!

Ever since I discovered your journey and your blog I've followed along (I'm the one who emailed you about HS'ing a few weeks ago). I have to admit to waiting on the edge of my seat for new postings here at ST or on your blog and I've been dying to hear about your adventures in Morocco. It looks like you guys had another amazing time and I can't wait to read about your upcoming journeys.

Oh, and now I have my kids following Mozart's journey's too. They are so excited to see all of the places she visits. My 6 year old Huey told me that he wants to write a book called, Mozart Sees the World. Ha ha!!

Kerry
 
Posts: 118 | Location: Shoreline, CT | Registered: 01 May 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed Morocco. I hope the "back to civilization" comment was said with tongue firmly in cheek. Considering the hospitality and deference shown to foreign visitors by Moroccans, something one notices the lack of when visiting western countries, I would ask what "civilised" means in your assessment?
 
Posts: 56 | Location: Jerez Spain and Fes Morocco | Registered: 10 October 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
WT

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quote:
My 6 year old Huey told me that he wants to write a book called, Mozart Sees the World. Ha ha!!



That is too cute Kerry!! I am so glad that you and your children are enjoying the blog. Wait until I get the pics of Morocco up, they are amazing and still can not capture the thrill of a kid feeding a camel or going into the desert with a big rainbow.

That is right we got a big rainbow as we entered the Sahara ...a very rare treat indeed. It felt like magic.

So hang in there it is coming. Wink



quote:
Considering the hospitality and deference shown to foreign visitors by Moroccans, something one notices the lack of when visiting western countries,


You are right chanol the people in Morocco are wonderful, so warm and giving,but I was not saying civilization tongue in cheek.

For an American, it is a very harsh country. Not because of the sweet people or all the beauty and wonderful creativity and color. The poverty and filth is overwhelming at moments.

Most of the people in the villages that we met, do not even have running water ( but they do have satellites!) and live with almost nothing and on earth floors.There is beauty in that too,but it ups ones chances for spreading disease.

My goodness I have a picture of a decapitated goat head that was just laying in front of the butchers right on the street in some town we stopped for lunch. Donkey and camel doo doo are everywhere and flies abound even in the nicest places and cities. Walking in Fez Medina is a mind field of dodging filth above and below while trying not to be run over by an overloaded donkey.

Like my image of India , it is a land of great contrast.I was shocked by the life of the every day Moroccan and saddened by thier lives in many ways.I always have some conflict when there is such a difference in lifestyle with the visitors ( myself included) or owners of the beautiful , luxurious riads and the sweet but poor people that serve in them.

Of course, one can get sick any where,but things like dysentary is much more common in Morocco than other ( European) countries. Plenty of people eat everything in Morocco ( even tap water) without getting sick, but I know of too many that got very ill,so we were very cautious.It gets tiring being on guard that much.

It was nice to be back in an area where one did not have to work so hard. I find Spain exotic too,but felt an immediate difference as soon as we arrived. It really was just the same as when I left Russia and we went into Finland. It is like night and day and so much less chaotic.

Even at the airport, there was a cat fight!! Two scraggly cats who obviously roam free there like so many places in Morocco, just got into a big fight while we all waited and waited and waited for our flight.


I use to fly for TWA so I have flown all over the world and must say cats and a cat fight was a first for me.

The 2nd class train in Spain is MUCH better than first class in Morocco ( altho first class was not bad at all..the bathrooms were disgusting).

The food is good in Morocco, some of it fantastic, but one always worries just a little if one will get sick or not. I felt a little queasy the whole time I was there and it is nice not to have to worry about germs left and right.

I think it is less hard for Europeans than for Americans, ( especially if they speak French which helps tremendously) as they are used to some of the crazy driving and narrow alleys and such and old, old things.But even several people we met from the UK found it a harsh country.

It is a wonderful, exotic country,but it is pretty wild,especially if you bring a young child. We toured with grand taxi's a lot and they are frightening themselves especially knowing thier high crash rates. It was raining and foggy as we swerved around endless curves with people on donkeys and bicycles blocking the road and everyone going too fast.

I brought a special vest to keep my child safe,but most Taxi's have NO SEATBELTS !! We went over the gorgeous Atlas mountains with breaks squeaking and grinding all the way and no seatbelt to be found. They usually travel with 4 passengers in the back and two up front with the driver. The drives were agony for us and I can not even imagine being that squashed.

So yes, there are different ways to define civilized. It some ways Morocco and its beautiful ancient people are more civilized,but for someone who is more accustomed to life in the first world and who has a young child traveling with them, Europe tends to be easier.Thus more civilized in that way.

One of the things that makes Morocco great ( 10 days feels like months) is the utter and complete foreigness ( is that a word?),but it is also what makes it nice to leave.


It was easier in many ways than I expected,but it was also harder in some ways. The chaos,noise and attack of the senses makes just staying in a luxurious riad viewing it from a distance very tempting at moments.I understand why many from Europe just fly in for a short or long weekend.


My impressions are just my impressions and I am sure everyones will be different. I know you have long experience in Fez which certainly will give you a much different perspective than mine.

It is a wonderful country and beautiful people but it definitely exotic travel.
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: from SF,living in Europe on RTW trip | Registered: 31 January 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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You are right chanol the people in Morocco are wonderful, so warm and giving,but I was not saying civilization tongue in cheek.



WT-- the word civilization means different things to different people, I guess. I would never think of Morocco, a country with a splendid culture and history, uncivilized.

Oscar Wilde once remarked about America: America is the only country that went from barbarism to decadence without civilization in between.

Peace Smile

Steve
 
Posts: 1078 | Registered: 16 September 2003Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
WT

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the word civilization means different things to different people


That is so true Steve and perhaps it is semantics then. I was not referring to the culture, history or people which I think I made very clear.

I was talking about the poverty and filth that is at a much different level than first world nations and the relief of not having to deal with that and the endless chaos.

I was with a group of 100 peace workers who visited all over the former USSR in 1988 and we had the exact same reaction when we hit Finland. It is not that we did not enjoy the rich culture, people and history there,but it was a very harsh place at that time ( despite not having the kind of Poverty one sees in Morocco). I think this is a very common reaction, no matter what word one uses.

I think it is important to say the good and bad of every place and wish more people had said more about these issues.

I do like that Oscar Wilde quote though! Wink
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: from SF,living in Europe on RTW trip | Registered: 31 January 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Wow- WT- I just went to your blog site and find it really interesting! Your little Mozart sounds very cute- are you doing Suzuki for the violin and piano. Just curious, as our little Mozart ( who is now almost 20) will be visiting Prague and Vienna with us this summer. When will you be in Prague?
Thanks-
HGHSPL
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Superior and Grand Lake, Colorado | Registered: 15 March 2004Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
WT

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Thanks HGHSPL, so glad that you found and enjoy the blog. I will be in Prague this summer, but I am not sure when since we travel a bit by whim.

Right now we are in Barcelona at the beach and had it open any where from 3 days to 10 days. It is really nice and we need the recovery time and reseach time so who knows when we will move on. So I have an idea, but never know exactly when we will be somewhere.

My guess is it might be in July sometime, but our schedule is always open to change.When will you be there?

We are doing Suzuki with the violin,but she has done more traditional with the piano. We are very, very happy with her current piano teacher who is not traditional, but teaches a unique jazz style that allows her to play lots of music and compose already. ( Which she loves).His focus is on learning all the chords and music theory rather than a rote method like most others.We also love her Suzuki teacher and glad we are using two methods as she was ready to read music early.



We hope to get to Vienna too. You could follow the blog and see if our paths might cross at the same time and then maybe we could have our "little Mozarts" meet.

We ran into someone ( unplanned) who knew us from the blog and the Fodor's Morocco forum on a roof top Terrace in Fez and it was really fun!
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: from SF,living in Europe on RTW trip | Registered: 31 January 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
WT

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We just got the first five entries on our blog about Morocco with Pictures if anyone is interested you can just click on:

http://www.soultravelers3.com/blog/blog.html
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: from SF,living in Europe on RTW trip | Registered: 31 January 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I know I shouldn't continue to have a private chat on the site, but I did want to respond one more time. WT- we will be in Vienna, Salzburg, and Prague June 11-26th- sounds like you will be there later. Our daughter did do Suzuki violin (from age 7- not as early as we could have, but just the right time for her to fall in love with the violin on her own. My husband is a school instrumental music teacher and was her home teacher, so he taught her much more about theory, note-reading, and rhythm from the beginning and that has served her well. She's a music education major at a university near us- she may do a performance masters, we are not sure. She also may do a strings-voice endorsement so she could teach either. Our trip has taken on the flavor of the music "geeks" that we all are. We plan to see the graves of the great composers in Vienna and plan to stop near Linz to see Bruckner's tomb. We are staying in the Institut St. Sebastian in Salzburg (where Leopold and Constanze Mozart are buried). Then off to the Czech Republic - we were disappointed that we would not be able to see Don Giovanni in the Estates Theatre there- one of those things I didn't think about when picking our flights and all. We also may go to Terezin while in Prague.
I just went up for my daughter's choir concert last night. They did Brahm's Requiem and there was also a Mozart motet on the program that Mozart wrote at 16. Sounds like your little one truly has many gifts, composing among them.
I will think about you often and will follow your blog. I'll tell my daughter about it as well. She will be jealous. She wants to go to Morocco and Turkey, but we have been dragging our fee. She just returned from a choir tour in Colombia- she is much more traveled than we are. Her college orchestra went to Zaragoza, Spain last year and will probably return next May.
Best wishes in all your travels!
HGHSPL
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Superior and Grand Lake, Colorado | Registered: 15 March 2004Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
WT

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Well I am glad you posted more as I enjoyed reading it ( gave me great ideas!)even if off topic! My email is soultravelers3@hotmail.com, so send me your email address and we can keep in touch in case we do end up in the same place at the same time. It could happen.

It would be lovely to meet.Your daughter sounds wonderful, I hope mine does as well at that age! I do not know if mine will ever compose seriously, but she does love to make up songs. I wish we were all music geeks to help her,but we try to keep up with her.

We are uploading Mozart's concert in the Sahara on the blog, which you will probably enjoy. It was very special.

It is not such a scary trip...go with your daughter next time...it is a beautiful, fascinating country and the Sahara is like nothing else in the world.Allessandra would take wonderful care of you.

Meanwhile enjoy your wonderful upcoming travel and thanks for the good wishes!
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: from SF,living in Europe on RTW trip | Registered: 31 January 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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