At the request of David, I am outlining our upcoming trip to China. We leave October 4 and return October 27. Needless to say, we are quite excited!!!
Itinerary: October 5-8 Beijing October 8-10 Xian October 10-14 Lhasa, Tibet October 14-15 Chengdu October 15-16 Chongqing October 17-20 Yangtze Cruise October 20-23 Shanghai October 23-24 Guilin October 24-27 Hong Kong As you can see, this is a very hectic schedule (not Slow Travel at all) but this is not Italy or Europe where we do things totally differently. We figure we need to see while we are there because returning is unlikely--plus, it is not a leisure country. We are sort of on a tour. It was designed for us and only one other person is in the group so it will be quite private. They seem to have many special things planned and I'm certain that it will be wonderful. I will write a report with photos sometime in November--on my website but will let people here know that it is there. David, I hope this is what you wanted. If not, let me know and I can tell you more.
Of course, we will see the Great Wall, pandas, terra cotta warriors, lots of temples, etc.
I wouldn't expect Slow Travel in a China trip......... although I have some friends who've actually done quite a lot of it all around Asia. They're pretty amazing.
Anyway, that's great. And they're putting Guilin towards the end. That's one place I've always wanted to go (along with everything else in your itinerary). I have a feeling that it's one of the places in China with lots of tourism, but still. Great.
I can't wait to hear your impressions.
I was in Hong Kong in '91 for 5 weeks and only went to Guangzhou (Canton) for 3 days but they were so, so memorable. We were with those same friends who've traveled all over Asia -- they were living in Hong Kong at the time. With their guidance (they were great tour guides) we rented bikes and got in with the native flow of things. Riding around a huge, crowded Chinese city on bikes was great. We got to corners of the city where it seemed they had never seen a "Gwylo" (Caucasian or "Ghost Man"). As we came down the street, the crowds of people parted and people pointed and stared at us. It was fantastic. And then there were the people who wanted to practice speaking English. Many times over a great experience.
Hope yours is wonderful.
David, usually in NYC
Posts: 4904 | Location: New York City | Registered: 15 June 2001
I backpacked extensively in China when I studied abroad. You definitely have a full itinerary but that is expected when you go to China. October is truly one of the best times to visit the country.
Regarding your itinerary, I can share a few things based on my travels.
Beijing is a great place to start - it is so cultural and full of amazing historical sites, you could stay for a few extra days to see more.
I have mixed feelings about Xian. The Terracotta soldiers were incredible but other than that it was unbarably polluted. We went there in October about 5 years ago and they just started to burn coal for the winter and my husband immediately developed a respiratory infection. I think one full day there as you have planned is just perfect. Bring some throat drops as they might come in handy.
Are you training into Tibet or flying?
Chengdu was so much fun. We basically just walked around and ate lots of dumplings. Food there is extremely spicy so be sure to ask for plenty of tea. My friends and I especially enjoyed visiting these panda rescue/reserve areas.
We made a stopover in Chongching before we got on our yangtze cruise. It was at the time one of the most polluted cities in China (6 years ago)and all 5 of us hated it. I am not sure if it's changed much.
The Yangtze cruise was one of the most interesting things we did while backpacking in China. Parts of the river aren't too scenic but make sure you go to the little gorges on smaller ships. (they offer it as side excursions) I don't know if you are going on a nice ship but we took a local boat and stayed in a 3rd class cabin so we can all in the same room together. There were people who brought chickens and their dogs and slept in one big storage area below the main deck. Knowing the history of the river really helps one see the beauty and the power of the Yangtze.
Shanghai is a big busy city. I heard from friends living there that it is ultra modern now - the night life scene is supposed to rival HK and NYC! Other than that I thought the people were a bit more less friendly as the Shanghainese are rumored to have a superiority complex and see themselves as being better than the other Chinese folks:)
My husband and I absolutely loved Guilin. Thought it is toursty we didn't see too many other foreigners but lots of Chinese people from other cities. We enjoyed our boat ride and stayed in Yangshuo for one night. I could have stayed another day there. We rented bikes and found a local guide who took us around. It was so beautiful and relaxing unlike many other parts of China. I also think that the people there are getting used to seeing foreign travelers so they pretty much left us alone. (we literally had people stand around us in a circle in the more rural part of Beijing:)
Hong Kong is a great way to end the trip - you'll appreciate the modernity that contrast greatly with parts of china. (but then you'll miss the charm there)
I can't wait to hear about your trip - have lots of fun and don't forget to practice how to use squatters as they still seem to be lingering around most of the touristy sites in China. Oh yeah, don't forget to bring little packets of kleenex as they don't always offer them at public restrooms.
One other thing, if you go to a restaurant without a menu, make sure you negotiate all the prices before you eat. They tried to triple charge us for a simple local meal. Fortunately it was only one place - we ate great food all over and never had too much problems but do be careful.
Donannie Thanks so very much for your insights and info. I loved reading it and picking up ideas. I am concerned about the pace of this trip but too late now. We can't extend time in any place and I think that I will wish that we could. I was concerned that we had such little time in Xian but now I feel better. We could have had more time in Chengdu but that would have meant driving to Chongqing, doing sightseeing there and boarding the ship all on one day. I thought it would be better to drive there the day before as it takes 4-5 hours. What do you think? We are going on a Regal Cruise ship--they are supposed to be pretty nice. We take a Li river trip in Guilin. We are slow independent travelers at heart so have very mixed emotions about this trip. But-----the more I read, the more convinced I became that it is best to not be independent in China--maybe that is wrong. Question: Do you know what kind of telephone jacks in China? I have been all over the web trying to find out and can't. All the places that sell jack adapters don't talk about China. Maybe they are the same as ours. I am taking my little, baby computer primarily to download and organize pictures as we go, but since I will have it, I'll try to hook up. Will let you know when the report is on my site. If you have any other ideas--like restaurant suggestions, I would love to have them.
I can't quite remember the phone jack in China but perhaps you could ask someone at one of the hotels you'll be staying. (I'll ask my husband if he remembers)
Yeah, the ride from Chengdu to Chongching is quite far. Do you have prearranged transportation? There weren't a lot to see on the way but I do remember beautiful mustard flowers everywhere. I'd stick with your original plan of taking enough time to get there. It would not be fun to miss the boat - so to speak!
One thing you should definitely do in Xian besides the terra cotta soldiers is to take a walk on the city walls. It's so amazing to stand on one of the oldest remaining city walls. A local man told us that when he was a child, he was able to see the local mountains but since the auto industry moved in, the clarity of the air has never been the same.
China is not the easiest place to travel leisurely so I don't think you should worry about the pace of your trip. It is usually very congested and packed with people everywhere. (thought we've had a few leisure moments just strolling/biking in the countryside) I hear so much about crazy drivers in Italy but I'll bet I am ready for that (our trip is coming up next month) since I survived the streets of China. I am also glad that you are not traveling completely on your own. I hate to say this but people take advantage of foreign tourists there and it's good to have someone who can help. (tour guide, hotel concierage, hostel managers.) One nice thing is that despite all the chaos, crime against travelers is pretty rare. We never felt threatened or had to worry about pickpockets.
In terms of food, my travel mates and I used recommendations from Lonely Planet for most of the local eats - a few times we ventured into fancier looking restaurants but realized that the little mom and pop places were actually much better. But always check for prices. For a really fancy & authentic meal, I heard that the China Club in Beijing is really fantastic. You might want to check it out. Do find out about the local specialties since chinese cuisine is so regional and specific that you should definitely try each one and compare. In terms of alcholic beverages, stick with Tsingtao beer and forget about any local wines as they truly have much to learn about wine-making. (besides, beer goes better with chinese food anyway:) Do bring some upset stomach medication just in case.
One other thing on food, I haven't been to Tibet yet but a friend of mine who has travled throughout the world (Europe, Africa and Asia) said that she really had a difficult time with the food out there. It was either too rich or greasy. Though it would be fun to try eating local food, it might not hurt to bring a little instant meal (crackers or instant noodle) for the road.
In case you are non-smokers, just know that people will smoke anywhere. We were stuck in a minivan with a bunch of locals on our way from Chendu to Chongching. A few of the guys chain smoked the whole time. Also, just so you know, spitting is a big thing throughout china . With all the air pollution, everyone is always clearning their throats and spitting. It takes a bit of getting use to but you do get used to it.
China is a very interesting country. The history is so rich and amazing that you'll find it a rewarding and unforgetable adventure .
Donannie, thanks once more for all the good stuff. I feel reassured about our plans and itinerary. When do you go to Italy? If you would like, just e-mail to me as then I will be sure to get your message. Sometimes I forget to check the "Other Countries" section. I have printed off your words of wisdom.
Donannie, I just went to the Italy section to read your posting there. Then, I figured that maybe you would get this message better here as there are so many reponses there. I am certainly glad that you listened to all the advice as it was all right. Now, I am curious as to your final itinerary. Tuscany is wonderful but is meant to be savored in slow motion and leisurely. Have you checked out my website? You might find it worthwhile to whet your anticipation--lots of pictures and some stuff on Tuscany. Its in my signature.
My mom grew up in Shanghai and is there now, the only thing she really still wanted to do in her travel's was the Yangtze river cruise.. so there she is at 75... and alone! I haven't heard from her since she left Japan for China..is there internet there?
Judy Divina Cucina Florence Everyone should try being Italian at least once a day!!
Judy- My parents did the Yangtze cruise a few years ago, and loved it. My mother traveled frequently in Asia on business for many years, and usually only got internet access in the large hotels or from offices where she was working. There are internet places now in China (mostly in cities or university areas), but they are difficult to find, and the equipment isn't always working.
My mom is back and I will see if I can get her to sign up here too. she is the original Slow Trav..as she was born in Portland Oregon.. ( conceived in Shanghai) and back on the boat to Shanghai when she was 10 days old. She is now 75, and travels all the time by herself.. slowly. She just went to Japan and then 13 days on a tour in China and a few days on her own. she just called... and was telling me a funny story how the guide that was helping her.. sent her down to cross the road in a tunnel under the square saying he was following with the group.... she ended up alone.... not in the right place... found a older Chinese man with a cell phone and with her broken Chinese...and some english,had him call the tour guide. The man gave directions as to where my mom was and then left. Noone came to get her, she was ready to take a cab back to the hotel when the man with the cell phone came running back and apologized, he had given the wrong directions to the guide..and the guide had called him back to find out where my mom was!!!So she was saved!!! nice story! She as a million of them
Judy Divina Cucina Florence Everyone should try being Italian at least once a day!!
I just registered my mom, she is La Contessa so let's see if she can figure it out to get on the board. she has lived all over the world and knows EVERYONE.
Judy Divina Cucina Florence Everyone should try being Italian at least once a day!!
Topic Closed
. With all the air pollution, everyone is always clearning their throats and spitting. It takes a bit of getting use to but you do get used to it. 
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