Bravo Jeff. Sounds like a great trip.
The Chinese say if you have not gone on the Great Wall, you are not a Hao Han - hero.
Marathon heroes, yeah!
I agree with your idea of doing the Sanlitun on your own. It is very vibrant and tremendous fun.
I looked at your itinerary and have a few observations:
- The silk market is indeed great fun. Otherwise don't get dragged to deserted expensive malls by tour guides. Why buy luxury products that cost more there than back home because of surtaxing?
- Very good idea, the hutong tour. In fact I would expand this, since the hutong's are the oldest parts and the soul of Beijing and are being inexorably demolished. Count on the fact that every time you go back to Beijing, - if you do, - you will see less hutong. There are actually several hotels in former Mandarin residences in the hutong neighborhoods: Hao Yuan and Lu Song Yuan leap to mind. Both sumptuous, comfortable and not expensive.
- As for your Bejing Duck dinner, I hope it is not the famous restaurant where Nixon was taken. It was once very good and is now touristy and very underwhelming.
Beijing changes so fast I am hesitant to recommend eateries.
An old standby is
黑土地
Hei1 Tu3 Di4 (The Black Earth)
with old Cultural Revolution posters on the wall.
The restaurant recreates the old peasant cuisine (surprisingly tasty!) and atmosphere of the kind of village cantines where teenage red guards were sent. The former red guards who are now yuppie executives come to this restaurant and get absolutely weepy nostalgic.
address: 和平里东街
he2 ping2 li3 dong1 jie1, west side, between second and third ring roads
Tel 6422-1415
Another old "non-nouveau" standby is Li Jia Cai, which means Li's Home Cooking.
In the old days we just told the taxis to go to Jian Guo Men Wai street - with no street number. Then we would look for a bunch of limo's with smoked windows parked illegally around the same spot - must be Li Jia Cai!
Below is the name and address in Chinese which you can show your taxi:
Li Jia Cai,
24 Jian Guo Men Wai Da Jie, Chaoyang district
李家菜
北京朝阳区建国门外大街24号
Tel: 65158750
A good hip non-cliché guide is the one by Adam Pillsbury.
I forgot to ask but..., if you are brave enough to run the hellishly uneven surface of the Great Wal, you are adventuresome enough to eat outside of hotel restaurants.
Check
this webpage for locals' eateries.
Sorriest I do not have time to read your itineary in depth. Will do so and will certainly have more ideas...