I am going to a conference about gothic things (don't ask) in Aix at the end of June. Gary's coming too but not conferencing, the lucky guy. I plan to do as little of that as possible... okay, the conference is an excuse to go, but why else do they have it there? Anyway this being our first time and not wanting a car to deal with, we'd just as soon stay in town and use the train to get to a couple of places. It's tempting to try to find the perfect little village and stay elsewhere, and of course I've been on ST for hours today looking at possibilities, but in view of my needing to get to the university for at least 2 of the days, I'm back to staying in Aix.
Tentatively here's our plan avec mes questions: -fly into Marseille (does that make more sense than flying into Paris? If it's lots cheaper we might do that, but what's the trade-off in hassle worth, or is it one?) -then (train or bus?) to Aix--it looks quick; I hear there's a shuttle bus from the airport--good bet? -for the week of the conference, rent an apartment in town spanning 6/23-6/29. (any recs much appreciated. The conference is at the University. I don't mind a longish walk, but are there good areas to stay within walking distance? Of course we want the old town). --during this week we thought we'd take a couple of little train excursions to Arles, Avignon, maybe Cassis. I take it the train connects one well from Aix to these? Any alternate suggestions? --On 6/30 train up to Paris for (gasp) a couple of days so just hotel it (I know, I know, not slow, but I promised Gary some slow Italy), then take the high speed overnight train to Florence, the rest of that week there, and by then I've fallen off the map for this topic, but we've got 1-2 weeks of sloooow travel there, 1 of which will be in Proceno, and perhaps then Sorrento if the cash holds out.
I think Marseille is a good option - definitely closer to Aix than Paris. I don't know anything about the train or buses - perhaps somebody else can be of assistance.
Re: train trips to Arles, Avignon, Cassis. I haven't been to Cassis yet so no opinion from me. Arles & Avignon are OK, but for a day trip I think Avignon is a better option - think you might find devoting a day in Arles is a bit too much considering your short time frame.
Let me be the first to suggest instead of doing day trips by train or buses, your consider renting a car & driving through the countryside visiting some of the many picturesque towns & villages within an hour's drive from Aix. You will find that many people on ST speak highly of Bonnieux, Lourmarin, Roussilion, Ansouis, Gordes, L'Isle Sur La Sorge, Vaison La Romaine and others.
The Cours Mirabeau in Aix is beautiful. I am sure you'll have a great time whatever you decide.
Trish - In the process of planning our May trip to Aix I found that flying to Marseille is a good option if you can get a direct flight, and not have to connect with a layover in England or Germany. There is a shuttle to Aix - the schedule is here.
We ultimately decided to fly to Paris, to avoid a long layover in Frankfurt or Munich, and found a fare to Paris that was several hundred dollars less than we could find to Marseille. If you choose that option, the TGV goes directly from Charles DeGaulle airport to Aix. If you haven't seen it, check out Kevin Widrow's "How To" guide to the TGV here.
Happy planning!
Posts: 3721 | Location: Berkeley, CA | Registered: 22 March 2005
Aix has a wonderful bus system with buses going to almost any nearby city you can think of. I was waiting for a bus once and saw people getting on one for Cassis and Marseilles, just to mention two. The tourist office is also really good at setting up trips. You can take a train either from Aix itself or out of town at the TGV station. I do agree that renting a car is the best way to see Provence and to get to the smaller villages. There are many apartments for rent in the old city of Aix. You will love it there-such a joy to walk around.
You've had much good advice already - I'd just add two things:
1) you could easily rent a car just for a day and take a drive out into the countryside - the Luberon, Les Alpilles, Le Var - are all easy day trips from Aix. Use public transport for larger towns and cities.
2) If you haven't done already, get going on the apartment rental. You'll be there just as the Festival will be starting. Aix is not huge to begin with. I'll bet there are more vacation rentals availble in the 4th in Paris than in all of Aix. And when the Festival is going on, everything is booked solid. Just lodging all the performers only takes up a goodly chunk of the available supply.
great advice so far indeed. just to add my five cents worth. the car is the king for me just an opinion. although great bus/train connections too especially the Aix/avignon/Cassis/marseille. The flight thing is just a bit research as to which is better price/time wise Paris or Marseille.
I love Aix and personally think it would be the best base in Provence if you want to be there without a car. (But I would definitely pay attention to Kevin's comments about the timing of your visit...) It is a very appealing small city, I think with much more charm than either Avignon or Arles.
I also do vote for the idea of renting a car for a day to see the countryside. I would hate for you to be so close and not have a chance to experience this part of Provence. We find the driving very easy.
Our family prefers to fly into Marseille and we find this very easy. You cannot get a direct flight from the USA to Marseille though. You would have to change planes in Paris, Amsterdam or some other major European city. I found last summer that the extra leg from Paris to Marseille added only a couple of dollars to the price of the ticket and was less expensive than the train. We arrived in Provence more quickly by plane. And if there is any issue you will be rebooked, whereas the train has to be handled separately. Marseille is an extremely easy airport to deal with, and from the Marseille airport you are 30 minutes to the center of Aix. You can easily take a bus or even a taxi.
We really enjoy Cassis. That would provide a very different experience for you, another aspect of Provence.
Wow, thanks for the advice, Kevin, Judy, Kathy, et al--nice to see you too Kathy! I find with ST if I even just peek at the boards I'm engrossed for hours, so now & again I have to go cold turkey.
Just tapping arond looking at airfares it seems as if it's no real savings one way or the other, and the Marseille airport being smaller/easier makes sense. I also like very much the suggestion of renting a car one day. I don't want to be burdened with it a good bit of the time, but if we rent it locally just for a day or two that cuts down hassle and expense and gets us into the countryside. But we do plan to take advantage of having a good public transport system.
Kevin's TGV guide is so thoughtful! Have already printed it out. Thanks for the heads-up on the festival too. The lyric festival, right? I had no idea. I've been googling my brains out this AM, have bookmarked a ton of places, will send out inquiries this week. You're spot on--several of the places that looked great are already booked. I'll post links once I've got the list narrowed.
rats, I have to go to work--thanks, this is all so helpful. Trish
Glad to see you are coming up with some good choices. I'd be happy to comment on location - do you have exact addresses ? That would make it easier. One thing to keep in mind is that you will be there during a potentially hot time of the year and Aix is a city built into a bit of a "bowl" so when it gets hot, Aix can sometimes get really stifling. You will probably find yourself wanting to sleep with the windows open at night, so put a premium on places where the bedrooms don't look out over busy streets. Aix has a great night life, which is a good reason to be there. However, if you are trying to sleep and have to deal with lots of noise, it can be a hassle.
So that's why I say to get the exact address of places you are interested in and I'll be happy to advise if I can.
#5 looks like a great choice, by the way. It looks like it is one of the apartments overlooking the Place Albertas. If so, this is one of my favorite spots in Aix. It's a square which smacks of elegance and class (though the facades of some of the buildings need a bit of upkeep). When the fountain is lit of at night, it is magical. You are right in the heart of the Old Town and a propos to my comments above, this place should be relatively quiet, as the square doesn't have any cafes.
Alas #5 is now out of the running: I liked it a lot (and even more after your description, Kevin!) but it's just too dear for 2 people on our budget. I had in mind to corral some of the other conferees and pitch in together, but that's turning out to be way too complicated. No response on severalof theother places, but NY Habitat got back to me with this:
It's less than lovely. But the price is right, and I may not have too many other options. It's on rue Granet. I don't have the number but I mappy-ed it and it looks like a short street near the Hotel de Ville, half a dozen blocks or so from the Cours Mirabeau. Do you think I should take it?--Any neighborhood advice? I'm writing back to the agency with questions about noise etc.
PS No mention of AC. As southern Louisianians we're pretty used to heat, but not in a city--and the bowl description reminds me of Siena. We were there once in summer, very hot, no AC, but usually we're fine opening the windows. But, due to that bowl effect I think, no air would move through. We wound up walking at night for air.
I just wrote asking if he had alternatives with AC and with a bed not in a loft. Looks like one would bump one's head sitting up in that contraption.
Rue Granet is one of the less traffic-ed streets in the Old Town - so should be pretty good as far as noise goes. Neighborhood is perfect - just around the corner from the Hotel de Ville as you mentioned. Tons of restaurants, bars, cafes within 5 minutes walking. Couldn't be safer, if that is a concern. If you can get the exact street number, send me an email and I will be happy to check it out for you. Should be going to Aix in the next day or two.
How nice of you to offer, Kevin. Still waiting to hear from the agent about the house number. I sent out another flurry of inquiries while I was at it. As soon as I hear of anything else available I'll post. For now all I have is the Rue Granet and the expensive huge place on Place Albertas.
Also found the Artea Hotel has a couple of apartments--it looks like a great place.
If I had my druthers I'd stay here but of course it's booked solid.
Trish, I rememberedthis post from a while back about an apartment in Aix, though I don't know that we ever got any feedback on it. I don't know if this is one you've already pursued... And here is the first thread which also has a couple of links.
The "Disponible" list is pretty much in. I have 2 B&Bs and 5 apartments, a range. Three of the flats are from NY Habitat. I asked the agent for street addresses but he just sent the names of streets again: 1. Rue Granet: http://www.nyhabitat.com/south-france-apartment/vacation/655 US $481. Pros: price, location, little terrace. Cons: that platform bed. 2. Boulevard Carnot: http://www.nyhabitat.com/south-france-apartment/vacation/254 US$1,224 Pros: view is nice, larger (could have another couple share part of the time), generally more attractive place. Cons: Price, looks like a busier street. 3. Between boulevard Carnot and rue des Breton: http://www.nyhabitat.com/south-france-apartment/vacation/554 US$822 Pros: terrace, garden. Cons: twin beds 4. Josette from www.francebyheart.com has a studio not listed on their site on Avenue de la Republique for US$800. She sent a description and one photo (of the kitchen area). It looks "bijou." Has a sleeping loft, AC, triple glazed fenetres. 5. A VRBO person who has been very pleasant putting up with my bad French has a place being remodeled so no photos, promised to be finished in April. She sent me the ground plan. If that's any indication it's nice, but I know how rennovations go.... our 4 month kitchen took 8 to finish.... It is in Rue Pavillon, rent is Euro $800--around $1000 US (grumble)
I'm tempted just to take the least dear one and spend the savings eating extra delicious things, but that bed worries me. We won't be there much except to sleep. I don't know if I could make it up there after a bottle of wine, and don't wish to clonk my head getting up.
Kevin is there anything that screams yes or no location wise? If not probably #4. Otherwise, opinions most welcome from all. with thanks, Trish
Forgot to say Thebault place is booked, and Maison de Carlotta was the former home of Hortense Cézanne, wife of Paul. That intrigues.
If I look at a map of Aix, what is the "Mazarin" neighborhood? I don't see an indication on any map I have found yet.
Just found out my paper for the conference was accepted--we were going to go anyway, but now I qualify for the state airline rate--yippee, $656. Of course Gary won't, but that just saved us potentially a week's rent.
The Quartier Mazarin is the area of Aix-en-Pce that is south of the Cours Mirabeau. It was developed in Classical style in the 17th century following a grid plan. One of the main streets in the Quartier Mazarin is the rue Cardinale. The Fontaine des Quatre-Dauphins is there too.
Ken's described well the Mazarin Quartier. It's certainly quieter than north of the Cours Mirabeau and considered the most chic location in Aix.
The B&B (Maison Carlotta) looks fantastic. Thanks for the heads up on that one as I'd never heard of it before. Wish there were more photos. I just left a message with the owner to see if they have their own web site. And I'll try to arrange to drop by and take a look. We often have guests asking for places to stay in Aix and this one seems truly charming and reasonably priced.
All that to say, pending further photos, that one would be my choice. Location is great. Remember that the Old Town of Aix is quite compact. To walk from Frederic Mistral to the Rue Granet would take 10 minutes max, just to give you an idea. The B&B seems like the perfect spot. You are an easy walk to all the activity and night life which makes Aix so fun, and then can retire to a quieter corner to get a good night's sleep !
While you would save some $ with choice #1, that place looks like a student flat (which it probably is). It would be a shame to spend a week in a town as gorgeous as Aix and live there. Pay up a bit if you can swing it.
Be careful with Boulevard Carnot places. That's part of the peripherique which circles the Old Town and is very busy traffic wise. Wouldn't want to have to sleep with the windows open. Ditto for Boulevard Republique.
I'll post if I find out more about Maison Carlotta. Anyway, I've got that one bookmarked.
i second the location south of cours mirabeau; between rue cardinale crossing rue mazarine is the lovely hotel de coumont and just before the hotel de marignane(17th century,where mirabeau played its debts in the theatre);just lovely area indeed! the best for location i think. your choices of lodgings are all too good and hard to choose from;love them all.
thanks Ken & Kevin-- Just got a neighborhood guide to Aix and with your descriptions all is becoming clear. Stuff I was looking at had the neighborhoods named but not located. I think we'll take your advice and book the Carlotta (unless you happen by and see someone with a jackhammer out front or something). No offense to university students, but I spend all my days here with them, and the idea here is to get away from some of the routines. One of the main reasons to have a flat is so Gary can cook with the local ingredients, but he'll have lots of time to do that in Italy. We'll just let ourselves be spoilt in Cezanne's wife's house
Trish, glad to hear you've potentially found a place you feel good about and maybe it will be nice to have the community and support of a small B&B during your stay in Aix.
One really nice aspect of Aix is the outdoor market/markets. The big market is several days a week (Tuesday/Thursday/Saturday), but I think you can fresh produce most mornings. We love the whole environment of Aix.
We are still unsure about our family's summer plans, but I'm very hopeful of being able to do a three-week language program in Aix. Maybe we'll have a chance to connect.
Not sure if you have already settled on your transportation (fly vs. train or drive), but will mention our experience last September. We flew over on American Airlines who advertise they have SNCF as a codeshare partner. We wanted to start in Avignon and depart from Lyon.
We found the price was the same to make a simple roundtrip to CDG as it was to include the "before" and "after" legs on the TGV. I think Aix could be booked this way, too. Just a thought, and not sure if it the TGV is always "free", but we found it very convenient.
cubbies
Posts: 410 | Location: California | Registered: 29 December 2005
American Airlines who advertise they have SNCF as a codeshare partner
This is really good information, cubbies, that I haven't seen anywhere else! It doesn't apply for us this trip, because we're flying on Delta miles, but it's definitely something to keep in mind for future trips.
I just checked United's website and find they also have a "ground link" that adds the TGV at what they imply is no added cost, to the following cities: Angers, (QXG), Avignon (XZN), Bordeaux, (ZFQ), Le Mans (ZLN), Lille (XDB), Lyon (XYD), Marseille (XRF), Nantes (QJZ), Poitiers (XOP), Rennes (ZFJ), Tours (XSH) , Valence (XHK)
I too will file this for future use.
Judy
Posts: 3721 | Location: Berkeley, CA | Registered: 22 March 2005
Okay, just a bit more detail for your files, at least with American. We walked over to the rail terminal at CDG and eventually discovered there is a special line for changing your "flight coupon" into an actual rail ticket with reserved seats.
Departing Lyon, we could only turn in the coupon about an hour before the scheduled train departure. Being something of a Nervous Nellie, we got there earlier in hopes of getting everything set. But the transaction went very smoothly, again at a special line labelled TGV Air or something similar.
We felt there was less hassle than with an extra leg by air, but then we travel light and had no trouble with getting luggage to and from the train.
cubbies
Posts: 410 | Location: California | Registered: 29 December 2005
Had a nice long chat with Madame d'Aquilante this morning and she seems absolutely charming. Her Maison has been open for just a year, but previously she had a B&B in the village of Ansuis in the Luberon. She told me her place was featured in this month's "Maison et Decor Mediterrean" which is a pretty good indication that the beautiful photos on the web site are spot on. I'm going to take a look later at the magazine and I'll let you know.
Thanks for info about the train link, Cubbies. Think we may try this too. Both of us prefer travel over land to in the air, esp. once we've made the long flight over. Getting on another airplane after that feels brutal. Have already printed out Kevin's TGV guide.
Kevin how kind of you to talk to Mme d'Aquilante. She's lovely in email, too. I've confirmed with her. I can't thank you enough. What can we bring you from Louisiana? pecans? Filé? next stop: Paris!
Filé: dried powdered sassafras leaves, a spice the Cajuns learned from Choctaw Indians, used most often in filé gumbo for flavor and as a thickener (which is why even if gumbo is very much a family thing and varies widely, one consistent rule is never use okra *and* filé, which is another thickener. I prefer filé since I don't quite have the trick of de-sliming the okra--it seems to require bacon fat or lard). You can buy filé off the shelf here, but we met a guy who hand harvests the leaves along the gulf coast and sits with giant wooden homemade mortar and pestle affair, resembling a butter churn, and spends hours and hours pounding his own, and the difference in flavor is remarkable.
Kathy, I almost missed your post. I hope we coincide, would love to meet you and family.
Plans really shaping up--thanks all, as always you inspire.
Just checked out Mme. Aquilante's place in the magazine - all I can say is that the pictures on the web site do not do it justice ! The place couldn't be more Aixois (which is a synonym in my book for class and chic).
-Kevin
p.s.: Filé sounds good to me ! Now just need a recipe for gumbo.
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