I'm so thrilled to have found this site -- it's a treasure trove! I'm planning a family vacation to Provence during the first week of July, so many of the threads on this board have already been invaluable. However, I still have a few questions: - Does anyone have any tips for satisfying vegetarians while eating out in Provence? Most of my family is vegetarian, but they do eat dairy and eggs. - We are staying near Pertuis in an old converted chateau. The villages north of the Luberon proper seem to get the most love from tour books, but has anyone ever been to Pertuis & can you tell me anything about it? - I would love to do a ton of walking in the villages, etc but this will be difficult with kids and grandparents in tow. Any ideas for how to get a similar experience with people who can't walk that much?
Where exactly are you staying in Pertuis? It is not one of my favorite places in the Luberon. I think it is a place which should have been monitored as it has very bad planning for all of the businesses set up on the edge of town. The area around the tourist information building is a little better but it isn't a place I would choose to visit. That said, it is very centrally located for visits to the many surrounding villages. I'm wondering if you are staying in an old, falling apart chateau that is near where I live. Do you have a web site for it? I will personally go and check it out if it is the same one. You will need a car to explore Provence. Many of the villages are hilly-Roussillon and Gordes just to name two, but you could set someone who can't get around well in a chair at a nice cafe and then explore yourself. I think most vegetarians can find things on menus to saftisfy. Provence has many great vegetable recipes, ratatouille being one although it is usually a side dish. Hope I haven't scared you away from Provence. It is truly a wonderful area.
I agree that Pertuis itself leaves something to be desired. It's the biggest town in the area and so has attracted the bigger supermarkets and box stores.
On the plus side, it's perfectly located for visiting the many beautiful villages south of the Luberon - Lourmarin tends to get all the press, but others not to miss are - Ansuis, Cucuron, Grambois, Lauris and Cadanet (where the castle ruins make a great spot for kids to run around and explore).
That's a good suggestion for the hillier villages to leave grandparents and kids in a nice shaddy spot (for example, the village "pond" in Cucuron) while others explore. Also, keep in mind, some villages are flatter than others. I'd recommend Grambois, Lourmarin, and Lauris - for pleasant (i.e. flat) strolling around.
As for vegetarians in Provence - you won't have a problem, in fact, quite the contrary. It's a region rich in almost every kind of fruit and vegetable. Most restaurants will have at least one vegetarian main course and one or two starters. You should definately explain to your waiter that you are vegetarian and see what he proposes. Many places will make up something special - or turn an appetizer into a main course. And don't feel shy at all about ordering two appetizers if that appeals.
The thought popped into my mind: Village trekking in Provence in July? Is this a good idea given the weather? Enough shade in the streets? Not too hot in the morning and late in the day?
Pauline has posted these notes about eating vegetarian in France.
We have driven through Pertuis many times... never really felt inspired to stop and look around. It's a town, kind of a commercial center for that area. But there are many interesting and attractive villages on the south side of the Luberon, and many of these seem to be flat. In addition to the other suggestions, I'd suggestLa Tour d'Aigues, which we enjoyed this past summer. The Val Joanis winery has beautiful gardens. And you'd be less than an hour from Cassis, for someting quite different.
Thanks all for the information. It's reassuring to know that there are still pretty places to see on our side of the Luberon. And thanks for the suggestions of flat villages -- that will be very useful! I'm a little worried about the falling down chateau though -- the website for the place we're staying is www.laloubiere.com -- I hope it's not the one that was referred to because we've already given our deposit!
I can definitely say that the place you have reserved is not the one crumbling near me. In fact it looks quite nice. I am going to see if I can find it and have a look see. I think that since you aren't going to be in Pertuis itself that you will like the area.
I'll agree that Pertuis is not the prettiest place. However, when we stayed in Cucuron, we ended up in Pertuis several times as it was the closest place with useful amenities such as an internet cafe and a laundromat, so it does have that going for it.
Kevin's idea about dropping off the "non-walkers" in a pretty spot while you explore is a good one. There's a nice little restaurant and a fine bar one the square at the pond in Cucuron. A great place for folks to hang out while you take a walk; the TI in Cucuron has a great little book (in English) that will guide you through some walks. I'm assuming most other towns have similar booklets, and the more picturesque towns will have cafes and shops to poke around in while you do more strenuous exploring. The only caveat is that some villages are hill-perched and you'll have a pretty hefty hike to get up to them after you park.
The castle at Ansouis is a fun visit, and could be navigated by most anyone (though there are a few stairs, IIRC). If you happen to get there at the right time, it can be even better. We were the only people on our tour, so we got a guide all to ourselves! Try the first (or last) tour of the day, though it's bound to be a little more crowded in the summer.
Good point about the heat in July. I usually recommend people spend the hottest hours of the day (from after lunch till around 5pm) comfortably sleeping under a shady tree, preferably within a few meters of a pool ! A bottle of chilled rosé during lunch is typically useful in this regard.
Villages are best visited either in the mornings (especially if there's a market going on) or late afternoon/early evening when things start to reawaken after siesta time.
Thanks again -- great info! And I'm SO relieved that La Loubiere is not the chateau you were thinking about, Lpennin. If you have a chance to check it out, I'd love to hear your impressions (no worries if you can't though).
I see La Loubière on the map. It's 5 or so kilometers southwest of Pertuis, close to the river (the Durance). You will surely find many everyday and indispensable services available in Pertuis, even if you don't decide to spend a lot to time walking around there.
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