Today we are finished teaching Study Abroad in London, and tomorrow our family goes to stay at a farmhouse w/pool between Menerbes and Bonnieux for a week. We have a daughter (16), son (13) and daughter (10). After all my research and reading of trip reports, there are clearly many months that could be filled here. But we have only one week.
What are some of your favorite things to see/do in this area? Rather than try to cram our time with every single beautiful village, we'd like to slow down and enjoy the areas we do see. So we'd love your off-the-cuff favorites.
What are your very favorite hikes, places to linger, views, etc.? We are a family that loves to explore and bring picnic lunches everywhere we go.
Thanks! I look forward to your help in paring down my list! Jacqui
Tomorrow! Good on you and your family. If its your first visit, I would put a visit to Les Baux at the top of the list. There's plenty to see for all ages and it puts you into the heart of the Alpilles with great scenery and picnic options. Climbing around the old ruins, checking out the village shops, watching the siege engine demonstrations--its all a bit touristed but also genuine and exhilarating. Try to finesse the crowds by early arrival. Paul
Posts: 58 | Location: Southern California | Registered: 01 April 2009
We have a great listing of hikes in the Luberon on Slow Travel on the Provence notes. We particularly liked the Falaise at Lioux. We were staying near by and could not resist a hike up. It was not hard especially with Kaydee's instructions. I also have a post on it along with pictures on my blog. For ruins, we enjoyed exploring Buoux. The Provence Byways book by Bob and Sue Winn has the best directions and history of the ruins. Photos of the Buoux. Here is a description of lunch nearby at Auberge de la Loube. We didn't make it there but I think it would be a great way to slowly explore the area.
The Abbey at Senanque was nice. There may be lavender in bloom soon. I know these are very touristy but we did really enjoy Roussillon and Isle sur l'Sorge.
Have a great time - check in if you get a chance. And we want all the details when you get back.
Find out when the outdoor markets come to the villages near you, and villages that you might be visiting. Be sure to go to one during your week -they are a feast of color and local life. The whole family should enjoy this, and the picnic-style meal that could follow. Linda
Posts: 943 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
We're in the area right now - and I'm blogging daily - check out my link below - might be helpful. Today (Saturday) we're heading over to Les Baux and I certainly want to get to Buoux, the Falaise at Lioux before we leave in a week. The Sunday market at L'Isle sur la Sorgues is high on most lists, but our group prefers the smaller one at Coustellet - great for getting food for a picnic. The Sat. market at Apt is also very good, but we're giving it a pass this year, since some of the gang want to re-visit Coustellet.
Arles is supposed to be a great visit. My wife and I were underwhelmed our first time there 4 years ago - going to give it another chance someday next week.
The Pont du Gard is pretty impressive - easy to combine that with a trip over to Avignon and/or the Chateauneuf du Pape area.
Saignon is worth a visit if you're in the area - and if you're near Bonnieux or at the market in Apt, it's pretty close. Pretty sure your children - and you too - would be impressed by the view from Rocher de Bellevue.
1) the Colorado near Rustrel - excellent walks to do down below or head up to the crest for some amazing views.
2) with summer weather here, on a real hot day, take the kayak ride between Fontaine de Vaucluse and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue - guaranteed to please the kids and a great way to see the countryside from a different perspective for the adults - and definitely refreshing !
Arles is supposed to be a great visit. My wife and I were underwhelmed our first time there 4 years ago - going to give it another chance someday next week.
I would give Arles a pass. There is a lot of construction going on in the Roman arena and theatre. Mike blogged about our recent visit to Arles here. As he wrote, it was probably our least favorite day of our 3-week trip to France.
For a city visit, we would choose Aix any day over Arles, and if you want Roman ruins, go to Glanum, outside St. Remy. Or plan another trip to Nimes / Pont du Gard. Our best experience on our recent trip was canoeing under the Pont du Gard, but that's probably a little far afield for you when there's so much to do right close by the Luberon.
I would also highly recommend the Picasso spectacle at Les Baux, which you may have seen discussed here.
Normally I try not to comment when people pan a location/site/city I love. I am a firm believer that the beauty of travel, like many fine things, is truly in the eye of the beholder. I've been to plenty of places that get major raves and was decidedly disappointed and vowed never to return.
But in this case, I'll make an exception to my rule and comment on your blog post concerning Arles. I don't intend to get you to change your mind, that's pretty much beside the point. But your criticisms of the city are fundamentally off-base and I'm afraid others may be influenced by your comments and skip what is truly one of the most fascinating small cities in Provence.
Taking your criticisms in turn:
1) You deplore that fact that Arles was crowded with loads of traffic and there was a long line to get into the big parking lot nearest to the Old Town. You did realize that Wednesday is market day (along with Saturday) - and that it's one of the largest in Provence? Arriving by car around 10:30 in the morning is about the worst strategy imaginable.
I guess it bears repeating: for the really big markets in Provence, if you want to go during the busy season, you should either be staying right in town the night before or go early in the morning (getting there around 8:30 is ideal).
Here's a list of such markets:
Arles - Saturday and Wednesday Aix - Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday Apt - Saturday I-s-l-Sorgue - Sunday St. Remy - Wednesday
All of the above are great markets, but they get jammed and very crowded. Arriving mid-morning is asking for parking hassles. You can't really blame Arles for that....
2) Likewise, finding a good restaurant during the above places on market day involves some extra effort. It shouldn't be a surprise that every place was jammed packed. My advice to visitors is if you know the place you want to eat, call the day before and reserve or stop by first thing on arrival and reserve. And especially in a place like Arles, which is no doubt a major tourist destination, you are going to find restaurants that cater to the throngs of tourists.
If you wanted something light, you'd have been much better off picking up some delights at the market and taking them over to the riverbank or Les Alyscamps...
3) You've decided to "give up on Roman Arles" because of the renovation work they are doing on the Ampitheatre and the Arena.
Apparently, you are annoyed by the fact that Arles has decided to replace "every Roman-placed stone that isn't perfectly level and structurally sound". Rest assured, this major renovation of a UNESCO listed site has been pretty well thought through. It is being funded and supervised not only by the French government but all the way up to the European level in Brussels. According to documents from the French Senate, it's importance is on a par with such projects as the renovation of Notre Dame and the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles. This is a very long way from being a simple question of a municipality doing some sprucing up and not appreciating the value of the heritage under their noses.
Don't get me wrong, I am a big fan of old stones and decaying ruins. But the Arena in Arles is not some minor site hidden in the hills in the Luberon. It's one of the finest examples of Roman architecture still standing anywhere in the world. Not only that, but it is still used for concerts/shows/bull fights to this day. 2,000 years of wear and tear will do a number on even the best laid of Roman masonry. Apparently, water infiltration was not only threatening the monument itself, but posed a risk to the public who use it. Hence the huge amount of time, effort and money now being spent to solidify and renovate. You might find the stones too new looking, but I'm pretty sure the best archeologists and historical architects in France know what they are doing.
I personally am fascinated every time I go by to see the progress they are making and the intricacy of the work involved. For anyone with any interest in archeology and architecture, it's a unique opportunity to see a work in progress. And at least last time I was there, you can still see plenty of the Arena both before and after, inside and out.
Plus, there is a lot more to Roman Arles than these two sites. For starters, the museum is one the best museums dedicated to Roman civilization I've ever seen (along with the one in Lyon). The collection is stunning and the displays are very informative. There are also the old Thermal baths to visit and the underground crypt. And not to be missed is the Alyscamps which I mentioned before. A magical spot dripping with history and anyway enough ambiance to have more than inspired Van Gogh and Gaugin.
4) Arles' history and culture doesn't stop with the Romans. Did you visit St. Trophime ? Site of one of the very first bishoprics in Europe (dating back to 200AD). The portal is one of the jewels of Provence romanesque architecture and the adjoining cloisters are sublime.
And more recently, the Arlettan Museum (founded by no less a figure than Frederic Mistral) is truly unique in its displays and explanation of the heritage and culture of Provence.
I could go on, but that's probably more than enough to fill a few hours...
5) I can't for the life of me understand what you mean by saying that Arles is a Paris wanabee ? Believe me when I say that in Provence, as in just about every part of the France outside of Paris, the idea of wanting to be like the capital would strike most people as insane. It's kind of a love/hate thing. First, whether they admit it or not, Paris to the French is such a unique, magnificent place that it would be foolhardy to even try to attain such perfection. Secondly, these same people will be quick to say that they have no interest in being like Paris. If nothing else, any true-blooded Provencal would dread the thought of having to put up with Parisian weather !!
6) Lastly, I have to agree that your comments regarding the parking lot in Arles are spot on. Not having a working elevator is inexcusable. Like wise having a pedestrian passageway blocked. And as for small spaces, well, that's a kind of French thing that takes some getting used to (or not)... still writing off a city with upwards of 2,000 years of history and no less than 7 UNESCO-listed monuments because you don't like the parking garage seems to me a bit short-sighted.
7) I am actually with you in the sense that I prefer Aix as a place to live - perhaps I am biased having lived there for 2 years. Arles, to me, is much more tourist-oriented and rightly so. Spending a day or two in Arles absorbing all it has to offer is (and here I use the term very carefully and pointedly) a "must" for visitors to Provence.
-Kevin
p.s.: next time your in town, I'll take you on a personal guided tour of Arles. If after that, you still think it should/could be in New Jersey, then I'll fly with you back to the states and you can show me just which part of Jersey you meant !
Thanks for your response. I confess to being overly sour about the visit to Arles that Roz and I made last month. It came right after the best day of our trip, and the contrast tempted me to over-reach critically (plus it's much more fun to write about what I don't like than the opposite).
Responding quickly to your numbered items:
1 and 2: We did know it was market day; what we didn't realize was how much that would overload the city's traffic, parking, and eatery capacity. Also, we got there later than we had hoped.
3. I was very disappointed to find the arena and the theater area virtually invisible behind construction barriers. I also plead guilty to a little "Viollet-le-Duc"-ism. I want ancient things to look old (at least to fit my image of their ancientness). So while I'm glad to hear that the sharp-edged new stonework has been verified accurate, I still feel a clash when I see old and new abutting each other. I do strongly agree that the Roman museum (on the riverbank) is spectacular, but we didn't go there this trip.
4. Guilty -- didn't visit St. Trophime. Will research it and possibly return (on a non-market day) to compare it with St-Sauveur in Aix, a favorite of ours. The Arlettan had been in our plan for the day. Missed it because we spent too much time looking for a place to eat -- several restaurants we were looking for turned out to be closed, unfindable, or under new management.
5. About the wannabe-Paris complex I detect in some "up-and-coming" French cities: I think it can even slop over into "wannabe American". Montpellier, which seems to have become a support system for a shopping mall, is my main example. I want the second- and third-rank cities to feel like themselves. True, no righteous Provencal would admit to imitating Paris, but it's too powerful a model for other towns when they plan their sprucing-up. Maybe what I dislike is when the smaller cities try to match Paris's grandeur while missing its livability (and even losing some of their own native style). To me, Nimes and Aix succeed in balancing this well.
Re your PS: You're on for the tour of Arles! And I apologize to New Jersey for using it as my example of concentrated boredom.
Thanks again for a spirited and convincing riposte. Stay well and stay in touch.
Just say the word and I'll meet you in Arles, guidebook and detailed map in hand ! And being a Connecticut Yankee (though fan of the Mets) I've been known to take a cheap shot or two at our friends over on the other side of the Hudson - I fully realize you meant it simply as a figure of speech....
Kevin, can you give some Arles restaurant recommendations for us? I looked up the Michelin star one you said, but--not the place for Casey. So...if reservations are important..ideas for two nights? OK for Casey but good for Ken and I. (Casey is a well-seasoned diner outer.)
Uh, Arles as a what wannabe? Yikes, block that metaphor, Mike. The "grandeur" of Arles has an historical development quite independent of - and unrelated to - Paris. One only need to look down on the town from a high place, and marvel at what formidable builders those Romans were. I don't think the Romans were out to do a second Lutèce; they just got build-build-build in their DNA. And any town with that high number of neighborhood squares and high number of good eateries has to understand pleasure and gracious living (ok, a hint of Paris there, but Paris does not have monopoly on pleasure). In case all that gaudy lifestyle gets to you (and it never got to me), a walk along the Alyscamps (which is my current fave Arles spot) is the best way to balance your vibes. After that moment of Roman zen, come back to town and have a apéritif at the bar of the glamorous Hotel Nord Pinus (which one ST called North Penis) before dinner…
The last post was a reply to Mike. I should reply to Jacquie. We just came home last night from the area. Since we are umpteenth-time récidivistes, we have long ago discarded our checklist of sightseeing kind of sites. Here are the spots we enjoyed most in recent years: - the Roman mills in Barbegal, just outside Arles - Uzes. Uzes-PontduGard is a great all-day trip - the Lavender drive, between Monieux and Sault, and between Sault and Saint Saturnin - Saint Sat. What a wonderful gem of a village. But we were spoiled. We were given a private tour by our country squire, our gentleman aubergiste, our ST "hero"… - last but not least, evening walk in Goult, up to the windmill, when all the cats come out and lie in the middle of the road, on the still warm asphalt…
Wow! I sure stepped in the merde when I knocked Arles! Now I've got both Kevin W. and AiP howling for my head.
Let's just say we had a bad day there (partly our fault, no doubt) and I used that to put some oomph behind my blog report of the day. I promise I will try to give Arles another chance (with Kevin as my guide). I may even endeavor to think better of Toulouse, though I don't plan ever to go there again. Montpelier -- I stand my ground. It's promoted as a shopping mall with a town attached and that's all I see.
Though y'all focused on my phrase "Paris envy" (I couldn't resist), what I really meant to explain was my disappointed feeling that these towns all had fallen into an "edifice complex". (And where can you find more of those than Paris?) It galled me (still does) that these cities, laudably trying to pry some tourist dollars/euros from the grasp of Paris, focus on stone and stores instead of the unique qualities of their local lifestyle and history -- to the point where whatever that was seemed no longer visible. So make it easier to find Musee Arlettan.
Many American travelers seek abroad what they like at home. How many times have I heard American tourists in Italy complain about not liking the pizza there? Why travel if all you want is what you get at home? As an Ohio native who never ate vegetables as a child and teen, I'm so grateful to Europe for introducing me to those flavors.
We've recently talked with friends here in the US who are planning their first (or maybe second) trips to France. To them, France and Paris are synonyms -- literally! I so much want to point them toward the great variety of French life and history beyond the capital.
And I'm tired of the word "French" being used as a put-down. Americans need to know that Paris is just a part (though hugely important) of a country whose history and culture is as central to what formed our nation as the British influence.
I was so deeply touched by the repeated and gracious references on VE day to the American role in liberating France. Few nations have the potential to be so close without compromising their independent attitudes. So please cut me a little slack when a grumpy day leaves me with a sense that the place I've been would be better to show it's uniqueness than to imitate other tourist attractions.
Don't know if this helps clear things up a bit. I suspect I am driven by deeper feelings than I acknowledged at first.
Mike, I want to thank you for instigating this lively discussion which has been most informative and interesting. I've visited Arles several times and will return this week. As always, your experience is "yours" and I take all opinions as adding to the sum. You are officially "cut a little slack" and thanks again. Paul
Posts: 58 | Location: Southern California | Registered: 01 April 2009
I was going to respond, but have decided now that getting dissed by not one but two SlowTrav Heros is really more than someone as nice as you deserves - being after all, Roz's driver, should give you some entitlements !
We'll just have to continue this discussion when we meet in Arles...
"Paris envy"? In the city of the fabled Nord Pinus hotel? Only appropriate.
And, Mike, I respect your take on Montpellier. I respect negative opinions. They really should be as necessary as positive opinions, but we ST are too reluctant to come out and say we don't like something or some place.
I just came back from lunch with a former colleague. Among other things we talked about this website, which was used by his daughter to plan some Provence travel. I mentioned today this particular discussion as a telling example of how a community, our community, works. I have read every line in these posts, and not because of duty ( ) but because it is a pleasure. I know we, Mods, have to keep to the shadows, but I felt I have to say this.
Thanks to all for the helpful and lively discussion on favorites in and around the Luberon. We were able to take you up on many of these suggestions, and had a WONDERFUL experience! (including Arles!) What a great forum. I honestly can't imagine how my time in France could be so great without all your help. Guidebooks are only helpful up to a point!
) but because it is a pleasure. I know we, Mods, have to keep to the shadows
, but I felt I have to say this.
