My wife and I will be renting a home in La Roque-Gageac this mid-May thru early June. We are beginning to plot our days and no doubt will be coming back to seek the expertise of many of you slow travellers who know the Dordogne. But first things first. I have just completed reading "From Here You Can't See Paris" which I thoroughly enjoyed. I know many of you have also read it (I discovered it while researching this site when we first started thinking about a stay in the Dordogne). I know the restaurant has changed hands recently, but I've seen recent reviews that say it is still quite good.

My question: as it is a 45 minute drive from La Roque (according to viaMichelin) would driving to Les Arques for lunch at La Recreation be a worthwhile day...and if yes, what would anyone suggest would be worthwhile and interesting stops to or from to make a fun day? If you've been for lunch recently, does anyone recall the price of the lunch menu?

Thanks so much for any insider insights.

Tim

Michael Sanders, who wrote "From Here ..." has another book, Families of the Vine about winemakers in the area a bit south of Les Arques. You might want to check out one or more of those. You will also note from that link that Amazon now has it as a bargain book for only $5.58. I may just buy it myself, since the copy I read came from the library, and I really enjoyed it.

And please do post a review of La Recréation if you go there. The town of Les Arques is small, but fun to walk around in.

- Roz

The Lot river area where Les Arcs is is truly enchanting.
I recommend:
- the boat-haulers' trail (chemin de halage) in the village of Bouziès,
- Saint Cirq Lapopie. It is a bit like Montmartre of Paris. Many people walk 10 steps out of the hilltop parking lot and walk back to their cars/buses complaining the place is touristy. Walk one more block downhill and it's another world !
- Calvignac is a beautiful villtop village nearby.
- Other beautiful villages include: Marcilhac sur Célé, Espagnac Sainte Eulalie, Sauliac sur Célé.
- Figeac is a great town with lots to see, including the Champollion museum. The Office du tourisme has sells a wonderful self-guided walking map of the old town (1 euro as I remember) .
- The Pech Merle cave. It is my second favorite prehistoric cave.
Pech Merle, Sauliac sur Célé, Marcilhac sur Célé, Espagnac Sainte Eulalie are all near each other, on the Célé river. Figeac is also near that cluster of villages.

I had a lovely lunch there a couple of years ago, so I say yes. 45 minutes to me is not very far to go for a good meal! We travel to France and NYC from Seattle just to eat, so I guess I'm okay traveling 5-10 hours to eat.

We also ate there a few years ago, driving in from Penne d'Agennais & spent the night in a chambre d'hotes. It was SO good we went back a week later for lunch. In short, yes, it was fabulous.

HOWEVER, here is a link to a discussion about Le Recreation this time last year. The original owners sold the restaurant so the menu and experience will probably be different. Who's to know if it will be better or not? I guess you'll have to let us all know!

Laura

We ate there several times before Jacques & Noelle moved back to Lyon, and it was certainly a real treat, especially as we could relate to the book. But friends who have eaten there a couple of times since the changeover say it's a different experience now - not the emotional connection if you loved the booked, even though the food is apparently still quite good. The village itself is very small and extremely quiet, in the middle of nowhere. I think that unless you read the book, it would occupy only a matter of minutes for you to take in. I'd suggest allowing an hour for the drive as it's along winding country roads and you can easily lose youself in that forested area of the Lot. Nearby villages worth a visit are Freyssinet, Goujounac, Villefranche du Perigord.

What does anybody think of Gourdon? It's between La Roque-Gageac and Les Arques. I've been there; it was a market day, with the stalls set up around the church, at the top of a hill.

Not far from Les Arques (but fartherd down from La R-G) is the château de Bonaguil, which is worth a visit.

Great market.

Thank you all so much for your comments and suggestions, and for the suggestions of possible other spots to check in on to ot from if we make the drive for lunch. I will report back, assuming we do it...but chances are good. It sounds delicious and a worthwhile day. Thanks again, all.

Tim

That's a shame to hear that it was sold. Does anyone know why and if the owners are still in the restaurant business?

Christy, we ate there in 2010 the week before it was closing. We were told that Noelle's mother was not well and they were moving to Lyon to be nearer her. I don't know if they were planning to try to get into the restaurant business there.

- Roz

Hi Tim,

Below is a link to our day trip into the Lot in September 2010 with lunch at La Recreation & Clos Triguedina - a Michael Sanders day - enjoyed it very much.

Les Arques & Clos Triguedina

Thank you, Doug. I had read your trip report a while back and at the time had not read "From Here..." so did not even focus on Les Arques. It was good to see it again, and allowed me to re-read your trip report. Very helpful.

PS - I have enjoyed all of your trip reports, btw. Very informative and well written (and the videos are an awesome addition!

Tim