As our trip to the Luberon in July gets closer I am trying to figure out some of the details. Our kids would love to have a beach day at least once a week. What, in your opinions, is the best beach within two hours of the Luberon. We are interested in the Calanques, but are not sure about access (we have a 5 yr old and 7 yr old and don't think they could manage a long walk in and out). We would like to try the Ile des Porquerolles? Does anyone recommend a beach there. We would also like to head up to the Camargue. We visited the one in Saintes Marie de la Mer, when we were there in May 2005. Are there any less crowded, more beautiful ones. We are looking for uncrowded (if that's possible in July), easily accessible and family friendly beaches. I have been reading this board regularly, and I'm always finding little gems. Kevin, thanks for posting your hike in the Albion Plateau. I'm already imagining a picnic dinner there.
Your wishes are understandable, particularly with children. However, partly because of the crowds of July, I think you may have trouble getting to the beach in two hours. We were in Cassis a couple of times - accessible by train if you'd rather do that than drive- and we easily went to the Calanques by boat. The boats function as water taxis, taking people into the narrow passageway of the Calanque, dropping them off at a nice beach, then coming back later for returns to Cassis. We also swam from the rocky beaches of Cassis, and the water was great - but watch out for the sea urchins! Cassis is really quite do-able, but maybe not in two hours. I wish I had a more direct and accessible idea for you, but I'll leave that to someone else. Linda
Posts: 915 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Thanks for the information on the water taxis from Cassis. From my searches on the internet I had thought that you could do boat tours, but I didn't know you could get on and be picked up later. I like that idea. We visited Cassis last time we were in Lourmarin, and it isn't too bad of a drive. We'll definitely try to spend a day at the Calanques.
This isn't a beach idea, but it is a water idea. You might consider doing a canoe trip on the River Sorgue. We did this last summer, and my daughter and I really enjoyed it, though it wasn't a good experience for my husband. (You can read about it here.) I think your kids would probably find this a lot of fun, and it would be much closer than Cassis-- and not as crowded.
You do need a reservation. We recommend Kayak Vert.
When are you in Lourmarin? We will be in Bonnieux beginning in early July... it would be fun for our families to connect.
Hi. Glad you enjoyed the hiking writeup. It would definately be a good hike with kids as it's really not demanding. Just take care with the heat in the summer.
As for beaches - uncrowded in July on the Mediterrean is certainly a relative concept. Personally, I'd give Cassis a miss as you risk hitting lots of traffic getting in and out as Linda says and the beaches there are sure to be jammed. The Calanques would be a bad idea with a 5 and 7 yr old in tow unless you take a boat ride in. Also, they may very well be closed to hikers in July due to fire risk.
Did you try the beach just west of Stes. Maries last time? That's where we go and we find it not completely overrun.
Porquerolles is a great idea. We've done that a few times and while it's a bit of a ride to get there (figure a good two hours from Lourmarin) - once there, it is entirely pleasant. You have to take a ferry over, so car traffic on the island is much restricted. You can rent bikes and bike to the various beaches - all of which are smallish and pleasant and not built-up at all. It would really make a great day trip - but just count on the whole day.
There are also a few nice beaches a bit closer on the Côte Bleue just west of Marseille. Traffic is usually less troublesome there (would take you maybe 1 to 1 1/2 hr from Lourmarin). I can't remember the name of the beach we go to just now, but I'll look it up and post later if you are interested. It's a nice beach, good sand and in a protected cove without much construction at all. It can get crowded, but it's mostly locals, so during the week it's not so bad.
Hope that helps.
-Kevin
p.s.: Kathy's idea for canoeing is a major crowd-pleaser (even with adults).
Kathy thank you for reminding me of your canoe trip. I remember reading about it, and it sounds like fun. We will be in Lourmarin from the 7th of July to the 4th of August. It would be great to meet up with you. I've really enjoyed reading about your adventures in Bonnieux and have appreciated all the information and wisdom you share.
Kevin,
Thanks for more information on Cassis in the summer. Although I have patience for many things, I am a wreck when I find myself in heavy traffic and crowds. I think we'll give Cassis a miss. The beaches on the Cote Bleue west of Marseille sound like what I had in mind. I'd really appreciate if you could tell me the name of the one you go to. Thanks again for your kindness and generosity.
Andie, we will be in Bonnieux from July 7 until August 12, so our timing matches up perfectly. Maybe you could come swim with us one day. Our daughter is very good with younger kids, and we'd enjoy getting together.
I've always enjoyed the public beaches away from the resorts. One of the easiest to get to is Plage de Pampelonnejust down the coast from St Tropez. Though the town itself can be horribly congested, the beach is easy to get to.
I actually spent Sept.11 there and had one of the most glorious days of my life - completely oblivious to what was unfolding on the other side of the world.
The beach I mentioned is called Sainte-Croix and it is just west of Carry and Sausset. You kind of park up above the beach and then walk down the hill.
The Pampelonne beach is indeed very nice, very posh. There was a famous beach personality: an ice-cream vendor lady. She would go around the series of beaches selling ice cream, taking off her top for the topless beaches, taking off everything for the everything-off ones, then putting everything back on for the family ones. A truly well-rounded cross-cultural lady.
Off topic: I spent Sept 11 on the beautiful hilltop village of Biot on the Riviera between Antibes and Nice, and also was completely unaware. A fashion shoot was going on on the lovely Places des Arcades. The American crew was running around crying into their cel phone, screaming that no one was answering at the office. I was thinking: those fashion people are such drama queens... Having thought such prejudiced thoughts is one of my least regrets, in terms of regret-ranking now... I still can't write about this without my heart leaping to my throat.
Kevin we will definitely try out Sainte-Croix. We visited Saint-Trop last time we were in the South and really enjoyed the atmosphere the luxe atmosphere. I remember reading a travel book, (was it Yvonne Lenard or Peter Mayle) talking about going to Saint Tropez in the summer. Anyway, the book described bumper to bumper traffic, huge crowds and a two hour trip taking many more hours. We would love to try Pampelonne beach, but not if it's like that. Is it really that bad?
Yes, St Tropez is that crowded. It is certainly much more enjoyable off season. Plage de pampellone can be accessed without having to drive through the town. It's actually about 10km south. When I travelled from Bonnieux to the beach, I deliberately took the coast road through Sainte Maxime and St Tropez because I was on a motorcycle and was able to go around all of the traffic. It's lovely but HORRIBLY crowded.
If you take the D558 which breaks off from the A8 and N7 (heading east from Aix)before Vidauban near Le Cannet des Maures you'll have a beautiful meandering drive through the Maures range.Through La Garde-Freinet and Grimaud. As you reach the coast you'll encounter the last few miles of the coastal highway, but you won't need to enter the town of St Tropez. The simplest route is to take the D98 along the coast for about 5 km and then cut south on the D93. If the coast road is backed up that far there are smaller local roads which will also cut across the peninsula without needing to go through town.
Though there are many useful guides to beaches, I would suggest starting with the yellow michelin map #245 of Provence and Côte d'Azur. If you follow along the coast you'll see dozens of small beaches identified. info about most of them can be found by simply googling the name of the specific beach.
I am just back from a week on Pampelonne beach, where they have rather nice huts/cabanes made of plastic but dressed up in a Polynesian style. (Look up tiki-hutte.com if you're interested).
I can vouch for it being a lovely beach, very long, wide and sandy. Although conventional wisdom says you should avoid the St Tropez area in July-August, I wonder if you can skip most of the traffic by going via Ramatuelle rather than St. Tropez. You have to get off the motorway at Le Luc, which is not signposted for St Trop. Pampelonne runs between Ramatuelle and St Tropez.
At the best of times it is a 2.5 hour drive from the Luberon.
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