Every time we go to Provence, we stay either in Goult or Bonnieux. Am looking at some rentals in Murs and Joucas for next year… Pray tell, what are those two villages like? I wonder if fellow STs have stayed there and have their own take, besides just driving by their I mean driving by their enchanting lavendar fields. Kevin, they are your backyards, no?
We stayed in this area last year but we never did much exploring in either village. We stayed in the country side near Lioux so no walking for croissants in the morning. It was our first trip to Provence so we were a bit more focused on driving around and seeing more well known villages.
Both villages seemed very small to us. Murs is a bit larger but I thought Joucas was prettier. But we didn't get to stop and walk through either village.
I liked the area. The Falaise de la Madeleine at Lioux is always on the horizon. We usually went into Apt for shopping. Roussillon is close by. But it is not far to go to any of the other Luberon villages or to drive up to the Rhone area.
I'm not certain exactly what you need to know. I'm behind on my posting of information on this area. I have a few blog posts on Provence but I haven't finished. Questions will spur me to post.
Marta, I keep following your footsteps. First Menton, now this.
quote:
Originally posted by Marta:
Both villages seemed very small to us. Murs is a bit larger but I thought Joucas was prettier. But we didn't get to stop and walk through either village. I'm not certain exactly what you need to know. I'm behind on my posting of information on this area. I have a few blog posts on Provence but I haven't finished. Questions will spur me to post.
Thanks, I will read your blog more attentively. What I want to know is the "charm quotient" plus the user-friendliness of the villages. Example: I like Goult and Bonnieux becuase besides being beautiful and having great views, they are "standalone" villages: They have at least one general store, a couple of good restaurants, good bakery, good café. If one stays in a rental in the village or within walking distance to the village, one is not obliged to drive somewhere for every little thing. Of course the "charm quotient" is important too. I can consider a rental in a place like Buoux or Sivergues, even though those villages do not have café or boulagerie or restaurant or general store. Thanks for all info.
I'm hoping someone else has more experience than I do. I can only give you a 'drive-by' impression.
To me, Joucas had more charm. I have a feeling it might be a little like a very small Seguret. I didn't get the same feeling through Murs. Rick Steves does mention Joucas in his book. He says there is a tiny grocery, one cafe, one pharmacy. Bonnieux is bigger than Joucas. Murs is probably in between the two in size. Both are definitely bigger the Buoux and Sivergues. After leaving, I was sorry I didn't have time to explore Joucas.
But again, it is just a 'drive-by' impression. For pictures - here are some interesting sites. Murs Joucas Provence photo gallery
I haven't stayed in Joucas or Murs, but I've hiked and driven through both several times. They are both much smaller villages than Bonnieux or Goult.
Murs is fairly isolated, reached by twisty mountain roads. It is definitely not touristy. I would stay there to "get away from it all." There is some great hiking in the gorges around Murs.
Joucas is at the base of the Vaucluse mountains, below Murs. I think Joucas has more charm and a bit of an artistic flair. (I remember interesting statues about the village.) It also has a four star hotel Le Phebus that I've heard has a very good restaurant. It wouldn't be so difficult to get to other villages for shopping and meals.
Here's another resource to learn more about the two villages:
Murs and Joucas are very much in our backyard (well, more like the sideyward, but who's counting)...
Both are very pretty little villages, decidedly non touristique. There is an amazing hike between the two which goes up through the Gogre de Veroncle - which I've done maybe 10 times and never tire of.
Strangely, despite the fact that the two villages are only 5km apart, they are amazingly different in terms of personality.
Joucas is kind of a little sister to Gordes. Pretty chic with some very expensive hotels and plenty of Parisian-owned second homes. Architecturally, it falls within the Gordes radius of stone facades. Stunning views over the valley from anywhere you look.
Murs, by contast, is anything but trendy. It's set well back into the folds of the Vaucluse mountains - much more like the "lost" little villages up on the plateau than the "found" villages of the valley. It's gorgeous and has a lovely (private) castle. One cafe/restaurant - which is not bad at all.
As for boulangeries, can't remember seeing one in either village - definately not in Murs.
Either would make for a lovely, quiet vacation. Neither would offer the ammenities of Goult - not to mention Bonnieux. Neither would offer the touristy shops and boutiques of Bonnieux (not even of Goult)....
Hope that gives you a bit of the picture.
By the way, take a look at St. Saturnin - if you liked the atmosphere in Goult, you'll find similar in St. Sat. And the finest bakery/patisserie anywhere in the Luberon !
-Kevin
p.s.: feel free to call if you want to discuss in person ! It would be a pleasure to put a voice to the face (and posts)...
Chers Marta, Kathy, Barbara, Kevin: Thank you all for your insiders' info. I counted on you to deliver. Getting this kind of take that one can't get from guidebooks is one of the reasons why I love Slowtrav. But sheesh, Kevin, have you not heard Churchill's 2-word reply when asked how he preserved his longevity and good health with the way he drank and cigar-smoke? "No sport." You know the famous Bernard Pivot interview where he asked celebs a set of the same questions. The last question is always: when you get to heaven's gate, what do you want to hear god say? Kevin, I don't know what he/she would say to you but I know what you would say: "so where's the hike?" Ne t'inquiète pas. I will show up soon enough at your backyard - in more ways than one - and be an absolute pest and a half.
