I took Patricia Well's Truffle Cooking class last year in Vaison and it was fabulous. It was alot of fun to hunt for the truffles, cook with them, eat them, attend the truffle auction in Carpentras and enjoy Provence in the winter. I highly recommend taking any of her classes. I also took a class with Susan Loomis at her home in Normandy and was disappointed in the class. However, the class at the Ritz in Paris was fabulous and was only 60 euros. Germaine
I've had some excellent results both in France and home using the market recipes included in Paris in a Basket. (Which reminds me, I need to get it back from the person who borowed it)
Patricia Wells's cookbooks are varied and interesting, but my choice would be--hands down--Julia Childs's Mastering the art of French Cooking, as mentioned above. Nothing quite compares, although Elizabeth David's French Provincial Cooking is a gem. Recently a French friend sent me a copy of Le Grand Livre de la Cuusine Provençale, which has many good recipes...if you can read French, or even pretty much figure out what's being said.
There are so many great choices for cookbooks, many mentioned here, French or otherwise, that one could spend half a day in a bookshop or library just browsing... I'd also recommend any of Alice Waters Chez Panisse cookbooks (and she has a new one called I think, Simple Cooking). She was inspired by food in France, and has a French sensibility still. The thing to do for traveling would be to check what will be seasonal for when you'll be gone, research recipes for what will be in the markets then, and copy several recipes that appeal to you...or, as mentioned before, try online. I'm not saying don't buy the books; they're still a great read/way to "travel"...I like to reread old Elizabeth David, Richard Olney, etc. And Julia Child is still the best for explaining recipes!
Posts: 97 | Location: san francisco | Registered: 08 March 2007
I just got some samples from Chronicle books, including "Country Cooking of France" by Anne Willan. I think this book would be a little too big to travel with (it weighs over five pounds) but it is an absolutely gorgeous book and the recipes look great. I immediately looked for pork rillettes and there is a recipe in the book that looks fantastic.
There is a snail and frog chapter and an innards and extremities chapter! And a recipe for Breton Crepes. Yum.
I haven't cooked out of it yet, but plan to soon...Here is the link.
Originally posted by cigalechanta: WOW!!! It must be a reissue. I have the book with the same title and Ann Willan from 1981.
The copyright date for both text and photos is 2007 - so it is not a reissue but I bet she's got a lot of the same stuff in this new edition that is in her 1981 version!
It really is a gorgeous book. I've been sitting on the couch reading it and I NEVER do that.
If you're interested in great rillettes (or any other charcuterie), you might do a search for Victoria Wise's first book American Charcuterie (Viking Penguin 1986). Now out of print, but probably around online. Victoria was one of Chez Panisse original cooks, but left when she got interested enough in charcuterie to start her own shop, the legendary Pig by the Tail, in Berkeley (sadly, it's now gone). Very authentic recipes for all kinds of pate, boudin, etc, as well as many good salads, and a few others.
Karen
Posts: 97 | Location: san francisco | Registered: 08 March 2007
1. Pedalling Through Burgundy by Sarah Leah Chase. I also have her "Provence" book - love them both.
2. Markets of Provence, Recipes by Ruthanne Long. This book fits the category of a "travel" cookbook sublimely. Go to the markets pictured and described in the book, buy the ingredients and cook the dishes in your gite or apartment.
Underhill, I am with you. Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking is the Bible for me. My mother relied on James Beard, who was one of Julia's mentors and friends. If I rely on Julia for the basic recipes from crepes to properly done scrambled eggs to Coq au Vin and am never disappointed.
I am excited to know Anne Willan's new version of Country Cooking is out. Having the pleasure to work with her before, the wonderful photographer France Ruffenach came to stay with me to shoot many of the photos for the Southwest sections. As wonderful as these classic recipes are, France Ruffenach's images of everyday rural France and good food are always an inspiration.
If I was traveling in France, I'd wait to buy one of the local small cookbooks of the region I was visiting (available at most Maison de Presse)and with a little dictionary in hand... give it a try.
The best part of cooking here is the food itself. It doesn't take much to turn good food into great dishes. Just now I am writing about the basics of cassoulet on my blog; not a recipe but more of an gastronomic encouragement.
I agree, it doesn't take much besides being careful and respectful of the ingredients you can get in France to turn out a good meal. Don't over-season and don't add extra flavoring ingredients. Let the meats, vegetables, fruits, and cheeses speak for themselves.
As for rillettes, a specialty of the Tours and Le Mans area, nothing could be simpler to make. You take more or less equal quantities of lean pork (fillet is good) and pork fat and cut all of it up into one-inch chunks. Then you brown it all in a pan. Pour off the liquid fat, cover the meat with salted water (or white wine and water and salt), and let it simmer for 4 to 5 hours. Add an herb bouquet and some pepper.
When the liquid has evaporated, stir the meat around and mash it with wooden spoon to shred it. Put it up in pots and let it cool, covered with a layer of melted lard or with something like waxed paper. Eat cold with cornichons and bread.
But there's no need to make rillettes in France, because they are available everywhere! You can add duck or goose meat along with the lean pork if you want. I used to make my own when I lived in San Francisco.
I was browsing in Borders and came across a of series of cook books by William Sonoma. I bought the Provence one. "Savoring Provence." The photos are lovely and so was the one on Tuscany. They had a 2008 calendar book for under the Tuscan sun but couldn't find one for Provence with the Spinal wire so you can open it flat.
Posts: 1135 | Location: cambridge,ma.usa | Registered: 27 January 2003
Oh, I love those spiral-bound books in the kitchen! I still long for the Time-Life series "World of Food" (with writing by MFK Fisher and Richard Olney among others) for their 'big picture' of Provincial France as well as that little spiral-bound recipe book that came with each hardbound volume! In fact, all students in 2008 at my French Kitchen will get their own spiral-bound personalized cookbook from their week of cooking in Gascony. Thanks to Judy Witts over in Slow Tlk Italy for her example!
Originally posted by Kate Hill: Oh, I love those spiral-bound books in the kitchen! I still long for the Time-Life series "World of Food" (with writing by MFK Fisher and Richard Olney among others) for their 'big picture' of Provincial France as well as that little spiral-bound recipe book that came with each hardbound volume!
Hi Kate,
I really don't want to make you too envious, but I just picked up a set of Time-Life's Foods of the World, including MLK Fisher's "Cooking of Provincial France" along with the spiral-bound recipe book at a local auction for $5.00, including dozens of others, mainly cookbooks.
A couple appear very interesting. Anybody have any experience with "The Cuisine of the Sun; Classical French Cooking from Nice and Provence" by Mireille Johnston or "The Dione Lucas Book of French Cooking"?
I have the "Cuisine of the Sun" (I remember reading it almost cover-to-cover when it first came out)...I like it very much. Don't have the Dione Lucas book, but when I first moved to Manhattan in 1969, she was the person for French cooking...she had a store where I found hard to get (then) cookware from France, and I think a cooking school. What a great find, esp. those Time-Life books!
Bon appetite, Karen
Posts: 97 | Location: san francisco | Registered: 08 March 2007
I have the Time-Life MFK Fisher but prefer Ann Willan's French Regional cooking. I also have Cuisine of the Sun and it was one of few out on Provençal cooking. It is one of my least favorites . I like better, a book titled The Provençal Table. Half Provençal kithen style book half recipes.
Posts: 1135 | Location: cambridge,ma.usa | Registered: 27 January 2003
Hey Doug, promise me..if you see another set at an auction you'll bid for me! I did get several volumes of older French books last year when in the state- I know Cuisine of the Sun was among them. Now I'll have to take another look. but best of all was a little book of French culinary history...full of interesting tidbits including the name of the man who promoted the idea of vegetables gardens or
potagers
for the masses to Henri IV in the late 14- early 1500's- Olivier Serre.
Best thing about having too many cookbooks is that we can all have our favorites. I probably use Judy Rodgers' Zuni Cafe Cookbook as much as any- if not strictly French (although she lived adn study here)she captures the French spirit to a T and is a great teacher.
I would second the suggestion of Clotilde Dusoulier's "Chocolate and Zucchini". There's not a huge number of recipes, but they're all ones you'll want to make. Besides the recipes being fantastic, the book is very chatty with comments on Parisian markets and the history of dishes. She has a second book coming out next April called "Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris." She also has a blog (chocolateandzucchini.com) with recipes and entries about living and traveling in France.
