A friend wants to visit Provence (for the first time) for the week between Xmas & New Years, and asked me about places to stay--likely for 3-5 nights. I'm thinking to base her near Bonnieux, but in looking at B&B's, it seems many don't even list December. And, as she's not much of a plan-aheader, there may be next to none available at this point.
How would you'd approach finding a place at this time of year?
Have you looked up Kevin's place, Le Mas Perréal ? I have not stayed there and I did visit the place once. The interior is beautiful and also very comfortable, not guindé. The village St Saturnin Les Apt is not only charming but has a life of its own outside the tourist season. It slows down of course but is not one of those "boutique villages" that become dead during off season.
A lot of B&&Bs in the smaller villages are closed during the off-season, and it's pretty quiet.
This may not be reflected on their website, but I think Le Clos du Buis in Bonnieux is normally open then (they open just for the holidays)... it would be worth checking. There is a guest kitchen there, so if restaurants aren't open, your friend could at least prepare some simple meals, and several places do stay open through the year for locals.
Another option would be a larger town or city: L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Apt or Aix-en-Provence, which will have more activity... especially Aix. Your friend could still visit the smaller villages.
We were in Bonnieux for Christmas 2004, but in a rental house. The church service at 11 pm on Christmas Eve was special. And we went to Aix-en-Provence and L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on market days that week... busy and fun.
Thanks, you two. Hey, Kathy! I've written Kevin to ask about his place, and inquired at Le Clos du Buis. I'll check out the larger towns as you suggest.
Aix-en-Provence is wonderful at Christmas time. We spent the week before Christmas there a couple of years ago and were entranced. Here is a link to our photo album from that trip.
We spent Christmas week in Nice, which is also a marvelous place to enjoy Christmas.
- Roz
P.S. We stayed in apartments -- there are links to their websites in the albums. But there are plenty of hotels available too if your friend would prefer that type of accommodation.
I sent you an email - but just to add my 2-cents more publicly...
I'll second Roz' recommendation about Aix for Xmas. Great place to spend the holidays. Excellent atmosphere - very festive.
Staying out in the countryside this time of year is another story. Many places are shut down and especially the more touristy locations can have a downright desolate feeling, with all those tourist-oriented shops and second homes shuttered up. That being said, the peace and quiet can be appealing. It's rare indeed to have a place like Gordes or Roussillon all to yourself !
Personally, though, for 1st-time winter visitors in particular, I'd recommend a bigger town or city with day trips out to the countryside.
You might look into Cucuron, if they're looking for something small. You might have some luck with either of the hotels there. Again, the village has a life of it's own outside of the tourist season.About 45 minutes from Aix, about 30 minutes from Bonnieux.
As it turns out, I did write to Le Clos du Buis in Bonnieux, and they *are* open (from Dec 21-Jan2), so that's good to know. Hopefully this little thread will be useful to someone else one day.
I gave her the info, and also links to places in Aix, so she'll work out her plans from there.
one question: was it very cold there during this time?
Aix was warmer than Paris but colder than Nice, both of which we also visited on that trip. Of course, weather can vary no matter where you are, but it is generally going to be milder along the Mediterranean than farther inland.
We are from New England, and Aix was not as cold as the weather we left behind. But if you are from California or Florida, it would seem quite cold, I'm sure!
Zoya, if you're interested in Aix-en-Provence, some friends stayed at Sous le Tilleul, which is a small place with a two-room suite (B&B) and an apartment which can be rented for a minimum of three nights. They loved it-- and the location in Aix is great.
In 2004 we spent the winter in Bonnieux and drove down to Aix for market day a few days after Christmas. It started snowing while we were in Aix, which made an interesting trip back through the mountain.
I thought the winter weather was almost always pleasant to be outside, but we did dress warmly (warm coat, hat, gloves, scarf). Some days in December and January, when we hiked, we would start off bundled up and end up in shirtsleeves when the sun was high.
I am going to cast my vote for a larger city. It can be quite cold during that time of year and you might like the convenience of strolling a larger city that has more options. Avignon is nice that time of year...the Christmas market is still up (until the 2nd of January I believe) and it is quiet and lovely.
Venere's blog had a recent post on where to stay in France at Christmas. It suggested Strasbourg, Paris and Aix-en-Provence. It isn't very detailed but it does have a few tips for Christmas in each of the cities.
We have rented an apartment for 6 in Nice for Christmas because we want to be near our daughter in Mougins. The prices around Mougins were much too high but I have found somewhere very nice....I hope!
I was there last month and although I basically dressed for winter, including the pashmina, but with a warm jacket rather than an overcoat, the sun was quite hot some days. Temperatures were around from 13 up to 25 degrees C so very variable - probably colder than 13 at night. Some days it was like an English summer so I had to remove layers and the local knowledge said that it could be nearly as warm at Christmas..... if we are lucky.
PS Just realised who started this thread. Waves to KarenM well, a sort of a wave.
Thanks for responding. Boy do I still long to come to your Cotswold cottage! Don't know when that might be possible.
My friend, Zoya, will love hearing what you wrote--I may have scared her off with tales of the cold in winter and Mistral! It turns out several options were available for her, and I'm waiting to hear what she's decided to do.
Karen- I take it all back about the warm weather in the south of France at Christmas!! They are having unusually cold weather now with prospects of rain rain rain over Christmas itself.
This, from my daughter in Mougins (only 10 mins from the sea and the supposedly warm Cote d'Azur) this morning: "freezing cold down here - like being on a ski holiday with sunshine and 'freeziness'. Nice Christmas Market in the village with mulled wine and fluffy donkeys. I think they must have made a ski slope for children with snow brought down from the mountains as I have just seen ski instructors walking up from the car park with skis!! DON'T FORGET hats gloves and big warm coats!!!"
So, no change from England then..... AND prospect of being delayed by snow at our end!
Gosh, I'm sorry I didn't get back to y'all, but my friend's trip never panned out. This is not entirely unusual, but I should have dropped a note to let you know.
I hope this thread will be of use to future winter Provence travelers.
well, a sort of a wave.
