We are going to be in Provence (Aix, and then Nice) in December. I would like to bring home some of the beautiful Provençal tablecloths or other linens for belated Christmas gifts. I suppose I might find something along those lines in the Christmas market in Aix, but wondered if anyone had suggestions for good places to shop. We will have a car in Aix, and plan to make some day trips, so could check out shops in nearby villages.

- Roz

Hi Roz,

There are some very fine (expensive) Provencal linens-- Souleiado is probably the best known. I know there is a shop in Aix-en-Provence that carries this linen.

I like the linens using a heavier fabric called Jacquard. You will pay more for these fabrics, but I think they are very good quality and hold up well with washing. You can buy solid or simply-patterned tablecloths, placemats, napkins, runners etc. Sometimes you will even find a shop where they will make something custom for you using fabrics from rolls.

Unless you are looking for something like the Souleiado, you can find the jacquard fabrics at the large outdoor markets and in a variety of shops in some of the larger towns. I have bought in shops and the markets. (Sometimes the shops are also selling outdoors in the market.) The photo below is of our table here at home, decorated for an autumn dinner party, using table linens from Apt and pottery from Aix.

Then there are the more traditional, brightly-colored fabrics with designs of olives, lemons, cigales, lavender etc. I have a couple of these tablecloths, along with napkins, placemats etc. They come in all different shapes. Rather than asking about specific sizes, you can normally specify the shape and the number of people. You can usually get a tablecloth for a six-person table for about 15 euro, sometimes less. And you can get treated fabric that you can just wipe off with a sponge.

You could go to Aix on any market day at pretty much any time of year (Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday) and visit outdoor vendors as well as several fabric shops and find just about anything. Same thing for L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on Sunday or Apt on Saturday. In Apt there are several fabric shops near each other on the central pedestrian street.

I can post some other photos and maybe even chase down the names/locations of a few shops if you want more info.

By the way, I think the jacquard towels (either in bright colors or with a Provencal design) make fabulous gifts. I bought about 12 on my last trip to give as hostess gifts during my time back home. There's usually a discount if you buy several.

Kathy

They also have a shop in Arles and Les Baux

Roz, should you be too busy and not find what you'd like. I order from a very sweet Frenchman in Concord, Ma. When I was working, I spent lots of money on tablecloths that were a disaster after the wine wouldn't wash off. Now I buy the treated cottons that I can sponge off. I have one for every season.

http://www.atouchofprovence.com/atopcart/CONTACT.htm

Also, there was this recommendation in a recent thread, just in case you're in the Avignon area!

Kathy, thanks for all that great info.

And Mimi, I know your sweet Frenchman -- Jean-Louis -- but I didn't realize he sold table linens. He gives fabulous cooking classes at Whole Foods stores -- including, I think, the one in Cambridge. Have you been to any of them? Whole Foods also sells some of his culinary items.

I've been to his classes in the Bedford store, which unfortunately aren't well enough publicized. I have been trying to get all my friends to sign up, because they are going to stop offering them if not enough people show up. The store apparently hasn't figured out that no one is going to come if they don't know about it.

- Roz

Goodness, I never knew that and we shop there only have seen someone doing snacky things!
thanks for telling me

I specifically wanted to bring back some fabric from Provence this summer, mainly to have some curtains made. I had some trouble finding nice fabric that didn't look like it ame straight from the tourist shop.
I found a shop in Arles called Poule Blanche, just below the coliseum. They had a great selection of beautiful and many unusual fabrics, as well as ready made tablecloths and linens.

A beautiful shop is Edith Mezard in Lumieres. It is small, but is a gem. The store is not open every day, so call ahead, I believe it is open Wednesday and Thursday afternoons.

Kathy,
A lovely table----how did you get your pottery back from Aix? We were in Caromb for two weeks and I had to restrain from buying too much as the potter did not ship.

Laidback, our pottery is called Terre e Provence, and it is made in the Drome Provencale and handpainted. You can see more on the website for the shop in Aix here. The shop in Aix-en-Provence sells only Terre e Provence pottery, but you can find it in some other stores too. And if you google, you'll find there are some distributors in the USA as well.

We have the "Engobe" pottery. Each piece is different, and there are some varied colors. We bought dinner plates, small plates, and bowls for eight, then a variety of serving pieces. This was the "big purchase" from our six months living in Provence-- really an investment for us... a family heirloom. On subsequent trips we have added a few more pieces.

When I visited the Aix store this summer, there was very little remaining in the Engobe pattern, and they were showing some beautiful new patterns. I may end up buying a bit more from US distributors to round out my set.

The Aix store ships. We did not pay VAT tax, so the shipping really traded off the VAT cost. It arrived home beautifully packed, not a single piece damaged in any way. You will find that the better shops do ship.

Kathy

Yes, Edith Mezard is the famous embroiderer. I have a table cloth with a quotation from Le Petit Prince (legends are her specialty)Her things are tres cher but I got this one inexpensively because it was a commision tht was never picked up. I use it at a window as curtain.

That was my first time to visit Mezard's chateau(the boutique is in what was once the stables.
I had taken the train from Isle-sur-la-sorgue.
I offered to pay her son if he's drive me back. I overpaid him and had a terror of a ride. He went over 100 miles per hour. He was at the time a student in a private school in New Hampshire. I think he is now the Lucas Mezard who opened, with his partner, La Garage, a restaurant in Lumieres.
At the boutique the stock changes. One year I bought two tea towels with the name of herbs embroided on them. Another year a blue linen coat dress,

Larry, there are loads of places in the US if you google and even here in Boston,I've seen the line.

Kaydee, the top of your beautiful table, looks like it's quilted?

Kathy - your tabletop looks great. Martha should take lessons from you.

I also bought one of those "quilted" tabletops as a gift for Irene while I was in Aix.

BUT I missed the pottery shop!! I'm about to download their catalogue now.

Cigalechanta,

Thanks. I used the site and ordered an acrylic coated cloth and napkins. When we were in provence, I did get a regular se from Soleideo but could not find the right size coated one. So I am really grateful.

Cigalenchanta--Thanks for the great referral to the web site to buy linens from Provence here in the US. I was in Provence last month and bought a tablecloth and other linens. Of course, now that I am back home I regret not buying more!... So I'm delighted to have the information about the shop here. Thanks again!

Kathleen