An article in the Boston Globe today explored spots to stop for an apéritif in Paris: "the cafes and bars along the avenues of the hidden northern side of Montmartre."

Americana, I think this is your neighborhood, so I'd be interested in your take on the article.

- Roz

Below it is also an article , tips on staying on a budget. The usual things like rentimg an apartment, etc.

And how!
I feel as though I had grown up with Elyette!
We all did.
I remember seeing the actress Juliette Binoche there when she was a student going to the acting school nearby.
When she repainted her café a few years ago, a bunch of us regular made ignoble threats against her changing the slightest décor.
She defends her regular customers fiercely. Once a very drunk man started to make antisemite or racist remarks - I forgot which. Elyette who was a head shorter than he came out of the counter, smilingly told him: "too bad for you that you like nobody; I like everybody, so you have to go." Still with a smile, she steered him by the shoulders and gently pushed him out of the café. The guy just waited outside looking as though he had been rejected from paradise. And he had.
Two important details:
- the café is indeed called "Au Rêve", but no one calls it that. It is always called "chez Elyette". Calling it Au Rêve is like calling San Francisco Frisco.
- her nickname for her husband is not Bixou but picsou (meaning steal-money, pique-sou), which is the translation of "scrooge" in French, her affectionate nickname for her husband who in his forelife was a banker.
Chez Elyette is my absolutely best treasured secret of Paris. Now the is out of the sac…
And not just for apéro. On summer nights it is a délice to stop by chez Elyette after dinner and have one digestif for the road.

So AiP, when do we go to chez Elyette for apéro or two?

That was fun today at the market.

Christy,
How about this Friday chez Elyette, apéro time, which means 7pm?
All ST's are welcome to join.
Christy, it was a hoot at the market. Just had aiguilletes for dinner.
On our way home we chanced upon another market - a brocante - in one of those lovely old "passages couverts" near our place, the passage Panorama. The brocante had gobs of table linen, silver and crystals that the restaurants nearby were unloading.
Got a ton of table linen plus things that the restaurateur "threw in" - all for 2.5 euro.

Reading with unashamed envy!!!

quote:

How about this Friday chez Elyette, apéro time, which means 7pm?
All ST's are welcome to join.

Yes!!!

quote:

it was a hoot at the market. Just had aiguilletes for dinner.

Aiguilletes - if this is the canard tenders, so did we. I served it with steamed spinach and rice.

The market was a special this past weekend called "Marches des Producteurs de Pays". It so reminded me of the big Sarlat market, lots of fois gras, canard, even found the mi-cuit pruneux.

I love Au Reve; we alternate between apts in St. Georges and Rue Caulaincourt and last Fall just wandered into the place for a glass on the way home. I was very casually dressed at the time, wearing a light jacket over a T-shirt which said "Life is Good". Every subsequent visit she would greet me with "life is good!"

Ms. L. and I would love to join you Fri., but will be spending the weekend in the country. Maybe another time. We enjoyed having a drink with the "Just Travels" about a week ago at Sq. Gustave Toudouze before they left for Colmar.

quote:

How about this Friday chez Elyette, apéro time, which means 7pm? All ST's are welcome to join.

Seven of us showed up: Americana and husband, M&M Scribos and friend, and us. I enjoyed my kirs. Au Rêve is an old establishment run by third generation Mme Elyette. It's filled with old memorabilia and aparently still has the old stand-up toilet.

But the price is right - 14 drinks for 30 euros.

The company was great. I always enjoy getting to know other STers. We are here in Paris for three months but everyone else are here longer - AiP lives here, the Scribos are here for a year and a half and their friend is here for six months. Lots of discussions altho a little hard to hear everyone.

After apéro, we walked down the street to Le Café qui Parle for a fine dinner. Thanks, Americana, for arranging the GTG.

Aarrggg, how did I miss this thread!! Den and I were in Paris between May 9 and May 25 and would have loved to meet other Slow Traverers! I was too busy blogging to check the rest of the ST website........my bad and my fault!

Darn.............Jo