As many of you know, I've been counting the days until our three weeks in Paris for months now, and now it's finally almost here (well, it's still 22 days, but that will go by in a flash!).
We've been to Paris several times for short visits, this time we plan to slow way down and really enjoy the city.
We're staying in an apartment in the 5th, just off Quai Montebello. I've been collecting restaurant recommendations and other ideas all along, but now I'd like to ask one more time.
What would you do if you had three weeks to spend in Paris and didn't have to devote any time at all to the usual tourist attractions? What would you see? Where would you eat? What should we not miss?
-set up a little routine and become a "regular" somewhere, anywhere
-see a ballet/play/concert or two or three!
-get up early and ramble through the Tuileries virtually alone! (right when it opens)
-spend every Sunday reading (a front for people-watching) in Jardin du Luxembourg
-make sure to have a coffee in the hardware cafe of BHV -Go to the Rodin museum if you haven't...I know you don't want to do touristy stuff, but if you haven't done this you should. Especially before spring, the scuptures are more stunning without the foliage. You don't even have to go IN to the museum, just do the outside visit.
-take the metro out to the far, far ends of Chateau de Vincennes (which I hear is newly restored and lovely, but you're not visiting those sites!) walk through the chateau grounds (not so lovely) to the big park and spend the day there.
-visit Chartres (but you may have already done this) and the labyrinth
-spend hours, maybe a day, milling through the gardens of Versailles on a fountain day; not standing in line for the chateau tours
-visit Au Verger de la Madeleine (wine/spirits shop) when Gilles is working...he is so kind and will answer any/all questions. He is especially good at reccommending restaurants that are fabulous and worth the extra euro!
-go to the flea markets...I especially like the Porte des Vanve because it is all outside on the street, accessible and small, comparatively!
I would eat at:
-Le J'Go [URL=www.lejgo.com] because we always do and it never disappoints; make sure to order the Lou Pastifret
-Spring? Maybe? Just because I'm curious...maybe I'd just stroll by.
-have tea at Marriage Freres or Ladurée (there is a post about tea at MF somewhere in the archives)
-the chestnut vendor's stand
-have a chestnut crepe
Mmmm...now I'm hungry! I can't wait to see everyone's lists! I will start my own "to do" list for summer based off your thread. Thanks, Chris! Have a wonderful time.
Laura
Posts: 571 | Location: Edmonds, WA | Registered: 01 April 2006
I'm not sure when the tulips are usually in bloom in Paris, but it should be at least during the last part of your time there.I especially remember the ones in the gardens next to (behind?) Notre Dame. But maybe that was a little later in April. Not sure.
Walk through the Jardin des Plantes and see what's in bloom. Something usually is.
Sit out in a sidewalk cafe and lean back, take the sun on your face. It might be cold out, but the sun is warm.Sip your Beaujolais. Ah.
Eat lunch at one of the back-room tables at Au Petit Fer a Cheval. Don't be put off by the bar in front. Get the Plat du Jour. If you have room, go for the Tarte Tatin (faites maison).And don't miss a visit to the WC. Amazing!
Walk down to the downstream tip of the Ile de La Cite and sit there, dangling your legs over the water. Try NOT to become hypnotized.
Find a good oyster bar and give yourself a tutorial on French oysters. Look for a place where a person wearing a rubber apron is standing out front opening them.
Buy a crepe Grand Marnier from a sidewalk vendor and walk along eating it out of your hand.
Spend a couple of hours wandering around in Per Lachaise cemetery. Somehow this is always most pleasant on a Sunday afternoon.
Explore the canal-side life on the Canal St. Martin.
Treat yourself to an hour in the Nissim de Commando museum.
Then on the second day ....
Dennis
Posts: 195 | Location: Tacoma/France | Registered: 24 February 2005
Chris & Linda, how exciting to be going to Paris again!! Can't wait for our turn, we go the end of April for three months - real, real slow.
We just live like a local with a lot of leisure.
Buy fresh baguette/bread everyday. Take time to go food shopping - almost everyday, in various markets.
Take long walks in various arron.
Spend the day at the Bois de Boulogne. This year, we will revisit Bois de Vincennes. We go to Bois de Boulogne almost everytime we are in Paris but it has been a decade since we were at the Bois de Vincennes.
Take a few day trips out of Paris as mentioned already.
Just relax and enjoy life.
Posts: 444 | Location: back home in san francisco but so excited about being in Venezia for the holidays!! | Registered: 22 April 2005
We leave tomorrow! In 48 hours I will begin thinking about dinner in the 5th.
We have no real plans either, with a few exceptions. Saturday will be a trip out to St. Denis and then a stroll along the Canal St. Martin followed by a stop at a SPAM market. Sunday will be organ concerts at St. Sulpice and St. Eustache. We will also head out to Chateau de Vincennes at some point. Other than that, we will do what we feel like when we feel like it.
Posts: 299 | Location: Waco, Texas USA | Registered: 31 January 2006
Dan and Chris, slow travel is the best idea, as you've been saying. Don't plan every day's activities. Let what happens happen. Live in Paris the way Parisians do, as much as you can. Resist busy-ness and relish everyday activities.
Chris - one of the places I would try to get to if I were living like a Parisian for three weeks is a park we visited a couple of times when we lived there in the far distant past - the Parc des Buttes Chaumont in the 19th. I remember it as being kind of rugged - and there are great views of the city from there.
I also envy you the chance to really settle into a neighborhood and to become a regular at the local boulangerie and epicerie, not to mention the cafe at the corner where you can sit and watch the world go by. I know you will have a wonderful time.
Judy
Posts: 1708 | Location: Berkeley, CA | Registered: 22 March 2005
Laura's idea of adopting a café and having it adopt you is great. A real local, slowtrav thing to do.
I also second the restaurnt J'go. Pair that with a visit to the free-wheeling Drouot auction house nearby. Drouot is sort of half way between a street fair and a full-fledged museum.
Choose a nice sunny day and take the train to Trouville and walk all day on the unending white sand beach lined with Proustian villas and come home to Paris at sundown.
By the way, yes Spring yes. Just dined at Spring for my hubby poo's bday. It was sooooo good I called Daniel (the chef) a Martian, because his cooking style comes out of nowhere and cannot be described. Dinner there needs at least 2 month advance booking, but you can try to book lunch (it is open "most" thursdays and fridays for lunch) a week in advance. Bon séjour.
I think that Daniel is taking a sabbatical about now; going to Japan. Stroll down rue Martyrs one Sunday morning when it becomes pedestrian only, take rue Clauzel over to the lovely little pl. Gustave Toudouze and get a sidewalk table at one of the cafe/resto/tea-rooms there and soak up the good life.
Posts: 61 | Location: Dunedin,FL | Registered: 01 December 2006
Dan, have a wonderful, slow, enjoyable time! We can't wait to hear about it.
And Chris-- so many great suggestions here. I'm especially interested in the idea of you becoming a "regular" somewhere in Paris... some little cafe not far from your apartment. Remember our plans to go out for coffee, just the two of us? You can take me there!
Laidback, are you still going to be in Paris in May staying at your favorite corner apartment? Are we still on for drinks or something? We'll be at the Douia apartment for three months.
Posts: 444 | Location: back home in san francisco but so excited about being in Venezia for the holidays!! | Registered: 22 April 2005
becoming a "regular" somewhere in Paris... some little cafe not far from your apartment
Kathy, this was one suggestion that really struck a chord with me, because it's something we try to do every time we stay somewhere more than a day or two. I will have a week in Paris before you arrive--that should give me time to become a "local," don't you think?
I can't tell you all how much I appreciate these suggestions. They will all be compiled into a handy what-to-do-today list that we will consult over morning coffee in "our" cafe.
Originally posted by Laidback: Stroll down rue Martyrs one Sunday morning when it becomes pedestrian only, take rue Clauzel over to the lovely little pl. Gustave Toudouze and get a sidewalk table at one of the cafe/resto/tea-rooms there and soak up the good life.
Indeed we will be there all of April and May and would enjoy meeting you. I believe you still have the phone # for the apt. We also carry our laptop and check our e-mail and new postings nearly every day.
Posts: 61 | Location: Dunedin,FL | Registered: 01 December 2006
Great idea to become a regular somewhere; shouldn't take long, even in Paris.
One nice thing I recall is spending time in the Bois de Boulogne on a Sunday afternoon, watching the French families enjoy themselves.
I second the idea of ballet or opera; several times I've gotten tickets for the Paris Opera Ballet at the Garnier, AFTER I've arrived in Paris. It amuses me that you need to reserve for dinner months in advance, but you can get an excellent seat a day or so before.
Oh just travel....I'm so jealous!! And Chris too...3 weeks would be wonderful let alone 3 months!! But alas...one week will have to do DanM have a great trip!!
This time I have only made plans for 4 things that I want (won't say must, because you just never know..) to do/see:
1. Sacre Coeur 2. Dehillerin (to buy whisks...sad I know but if you like to cook...well..it's a highlight) 3. Pere Lachaise 4. Spend a FEW HOURS in Shakespeare & Co. (only got to spend about 1/2 hour in there the last time) This is to buy at least one book to enjoy on our terrasse with une verre de vin!
ah sigh....only 77 days to go, but who's counting!
DanM have a great trip!!