As many of you know, I've been counting the days until our three weeks in Paris for months now, and now it's finally almost here (well, it's still 22 days, but that will go by in a flash!).

We've been to Paris several times for short visits, this time we plan to slow way down and really enjoy the city.

We're staying in an apartment in the 5th, just off Quai Montebello. I've been collecting restaurant recommendations and other ideas all along, but now I'd like to ask one more time.

What would you do if you had three weeks to spend in Paris and didn't have to devote any time at all to the usual tourist attractions? What would you see? Where would you eat? What should we not miss?

Oh la la, three weeks in Paris...I would:

-set up a little routine and become a "regular" somewhere, anywhere

-see a ballet/play/concert or two or three!

-get up early and ramble through the Tuileries virtually alone! (right when it opens)

-spend every Sunday reading (a front for people-watching) in Jardin du Luxembourg

-make sure to have a coffee in the hardware cafe of BHV
-Go to the Rodin museum if you haven't...I know you don't want to do touristy stuff, but if you haven't done this you should. Especially before spring, the scuptures are more stunning without the foliage. You don't even have to go IN to the museum, just do the outside visit.

-take the metro out to the far, far ends of Chateau de Vincennes (which I hear is newly restored and lovely, but you're not visiting those sites!) walk through the chateau grounds (not so lovely) to the big park and spend the day there.

-visit Chartres (but you may have already done this) and the labyrinth

-spend hours, maybe a day, milling through the gardens of Versailles on a fountain day; not standing in line for the chateau tours

-visit Au Verger de la Madeleine (wine/spirits shop) when Gilles is working...he is so kind and will answer any/all questions. He is especially good at reccommending restaurants that are fabulous and worth the extra euro!

-go to the flea markets...I especially like the Porte des Vanve because it is all outside on the street, accessible and small, comparatively!

I would eat at:

-Le J'Go [URL=www.lejgo.com] because we always do and it never disappoints; make sure to order the Lou Pastifret

-Spring? Maybe? Just because I'm curious...maybe I'd just stroll by.

-have tea at Marriage Freres or Ladurée (there is a post about tea at MF somewhere in the archives)

-the chestnut vendor's stand

-have a chestnut crepe

Mmmm...now I'm hungry! I can't wait to see everyone's lists! I will start my own "to do" list for summer based off your thread. Thanks, Chris! Have a wonderful time.

Laura

Wow, what a great list, Laura! Thanks!

I'm not sure when the tulips are usually in bloom in Paris, but it should be at least during the last part of your time there.I especially remember the ones in the gardens next to (behind?) Notre Dame. But maybe that was a little later in April. Not sure.

Walk through the Jardin des Plantes and see what's in bloom. Something usually is.

Sit out in a sidewalk cafe and lean back, take the sun on your face. It might be cold out, but the sun is warm.Sip your Beaujolais. Ah.

Eat lunch at one of the back-room tables at Au Petit Fer a Cheval. Don't be put off by the bar in front. Get the Plat du Jour. If you have room, go for the Tarte Tatin (faites maison).And don't miss a visit to the WC. Amazing!

Walk down to the downstream tip of the Ile de La Cite and sit there, dangling your legs over the water. Try NOT to become hypnotized.

Find a good oyster bar and give yourself a tutorial on French oysters. Look for a place where a person wearing a rubber apron is standing out front opening them.

Buy a crepe Grand Marnier from a sidewalk vendor and walk along eating it out of your hand.

Spend a couple of hours wandering around in Per Lachaise cemetery. Somehow this is always most pleasant on a Sunday afternoon.

Explore the canal-side life on the Canal St. Martin.

Treat yourself to an hour in the Nissim de Commando museum.

Then on the second day ....

Dennis

Wow....!!! I'm printing this off to take with me. I only have one week, but will try to at least squeak a couple of these suggestions in.

Super!

Thanks,

Linda.

quote:

Nissim de Commando museum

You had me stumped for a few minutes, Dennis, because I couldn't find this in Google! It's Musee Nissim de Camondo.

Thanks for the great suggestions. That museum, which I've never seen, looks fascinating.

Chris & Linda, how exciting to be going to Paris again!! Can't wait for our turn, we go the end of April for three months - real, real slow.

We just live like a local with a lot of leisure.

Buy fresh baguette/bread everyday. Take time to go food shopping - almost everyday, in various markets.

Take long walks in various arron.

Spend the day at the Bois de Boulogne. This year, we will revisit Bois de Vincennes. We go to Bois de Boulogne almost everytime we are in Paris but it has been a decade since we were at the Bois de Vincennes.

Take a few day trips out of Paris as mentioned already.

Just relax and enjoy life.

Thank, just travel! Although we can't manage three months, we'll do our best for three weeks.

We leave tomorrow! In 48 hours I will begin thinking about dinner in the 5th.

We have no real plans either, with a few exceptions. Saturday will be a trip out to St. Denis and then a stroll along the Canal St. Martin followed by a stop at a SPAM market. Sunday will be organ concerts at St. Sulpice and St. Eustache. We will also head out to Chateau de Vincennes at some point. Other than that, we will do what we feel like when we feel like it.

Dan and Chris, slow travel is the best idea, as you've been saying. Don't plan every day's activities. Let what happens happen. Live in Paris the way Parisians do, as much as you can. Resist busy-ness and relish everyday activities.

Have a fabulous time, Dan! We'll be waiting to hear about it when you get home.

Dan - Bon Voyage!

Chris - one of the places I would try to get to if I were living like a Parisian for three weeks is a park we visited a couple of times when we lived there in the far distant past - the Parc des Buttes Chaumont in the 19th. I remember it as being kind of rugged - and there are great views of the city from there.

I also envy you the chance to really settle into a neighborhood and to become a regular at the local boulangerie and epicerie, not to mention the cafe at the corner where you can sit and watch the world go by. I know you will have a wonderful time.

Judy

Chris,

Laura's idea of adopting a café and having it adopt you is great. A real local, slowtrav thing to do.

I also second the restaurnt J'go. Pair that with a visit to the free-wheeling Drouot auction house nearby. Drouot is sort of half way between a street fair and a full-fledged museum.

Which reminds me. Check out the calendar of street fairs for Paris and nearby. They are great fun.
http://www.pointsdechine.com/calendrier/calendrier.php?region=1&p_mois=0

Choose a nice sunny day and take the train to Trouville and walk all day on the unending white sand beach lined with Proustian villas and come home to Paris at sundown.

By the way, yes Spring yes.
Just dined at Spring for my hubby poo's bday. It was sooooo good I called Daniel (the chef) a Martian, because his cooking style comes out of nowhere and cannot be described.
Dinner there needs at least 2 month advance booking, but you can try to book lunch (it is open "most" thursdays and fridays for lunch) a week in advance.
Bon séjour.

I think that Daniel is taking a sabbatical about now; going to Japan. Stroll down rue Martyrs one Sunday morning when it becomes pedestrian only, take rue Clauzel over to the lovely little pl. Gustave Toudouze and get a sidewalk table at one of the cafe/resto/tea-rooms there and soak up the good life.

Dan, have a wonderful, slow, enjoyable time! We can't wait to hear about it.

And Chris-- so many great suggestions here. I'm especially interested in the idea of you becoming a "regular" somewhere in Paris... some little cafe not far from your apartment. Remember our plans to go out for coffee, just the two of us? You can take me there!

Kathy

Laidback, are you still going to be in Paris in May staying at your favorite corner apartment? Are we still on for drinks or something? We'll be at the Douia apartment for three months.

quote:

becoming a "regular" somewhere in Paris... some little cafe not far from your apartment

Kathy, this was one suggestion that really struck a chord with me, because it's something we try to do every time we stay somewhere more than a day or two. I will have a week in Paris before you arrive--that should give me time to become a "local," don't you think?

I can't tell you all how much I appreciate these suggestions. They will all be compiled into a handy what-to-do-today list that we will consult over morning coffee in "our" cafe.

quote:

Originally posted by Laidback:
Stroll down rue Martyrs one Sunday morning when it becomes pedestrian only, take rue Clauzel over to the lovely little pl. Gustave Toudouze and get a sidewalk table at one of the cafe/resto/tea-rooms there and soak up the good life.

Just yell. I'll hear you from my window !

Just Travel,

Indeed we will be there all of April and May and would enjoy meeting you. I believe you still have the phone # for the apt. We also carry our laptop and check our e-mail and new postings nearly every day.

Great idea to become a regular somewhere; shouldn't take long, even in Paris.

One nice thing I recall is spending time in the Bois de Boulogne on a Sunday afternoon, watching the French families enjoy themselves.

I second the idea of ballet or opera; several times I've gotten tickets for the Paris Opera Ballet at the Garnier, AFTER I've arrived in Paris. It amuses me that you need to reserve for dinner months in advance, but you can get an excellent seat a day or so before.

Bon voyage...

Oh just travel....I'm so jealous!! And Chris too...3 weeks would be wonderful let alone 3 months!! But alas...one week will have to do DanM have a great trip!!

This time I have only made plans for 4 things that I want (won't say must, because you just never know..) to do/see:

1. Sacre Coeur
2. Dehillerin (to buy whisks...sad I know but if you like to cook...well..it's a highlight)
3. Pere Lachaise
4. Spend a FEW HOURS in Shakespeare & Co. (only got to spend about 1/2 hour in there the last time) This is to buy at least one book to enjoy on our terrasse with une verre de vin!

ah sigh....only 77 days to go, but who's counting!

Linda.

quote:

Find a good oyster bar

L'Ecallier du Bistro, 22 rue Paul Bert, 11th. 01.43.72.76.77

quote:

Buy at least one book to enjoy

The Red Wheelbarrel, 22 Rue St Paul, 4th. The best little bookstore in Paris. For Paris books, perhaps the best in the world.


Fabulous view of the Eiffel Tower sparkling at night, and the food is pretty good, too:

Les Ombres, 220 rue de l’Université, 7th.
01.47.53.68.00
http://www.lesombres-restaurant.com

Phone us. Come by.

Dave

Thanks, Dave, we'll be all over that bookstore!

And I'll definitely call. We'd love to see you while we're there.

I think I would try to find a good wine bar and become a regular there! After all, French wines are, well, amazing!

For us, it will be some other time, though. We had started planning for two weeks in Paris in April 08, but decided to buy a house instead!!

Paris will still be beautiful next year!

Paris will still be beautiful whenever you are able to go, Christian. A house is a wonderful investment, congratulations!

Chris, this is such a good thread, I never tire of reading everyone's ideas.

Chris, you're going to have the best time ever. I think the closest café is the Café du Monde on the Place Maubert -- it's not small and intimate, but there's great people-watching on the terrace in good weather. But you may be so mesmerized by the view of Notre Dame from the windows of your apartment that you'll never want to move. It's really magical to get up in the middle of the night to sneak a peak to be sure you're not dreaming!

Thanks, Ann. Good people-watching is a high priority for me so we'll definitely check it out.

I first saw the apartment we're staying in when we visited Ann and her husband when they were staying there in 2004. Can you believe this view? This is from the living room window!

Now I am really curious about your apartment, Chris - that's a beautiful view. We stayed at this apartment in 2005 but cannot afford it this time around. We are staying here instead.

You are all making me wish we are going to Paris this weekend. But alas, work comes first this time of year; Uncle Sam does not wait.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris:
Can you believe this view? This is from the living room window!

Wow, Chris! That is indeed an amazing view. That's where we're starting our GTG, right? Can't believe I'll be staring out that same window in a month.

Thanks for starting this terrific thread, BTW. Funny to see others planning on doing some of the same things I'm looking forward to as well. I wonder which cafe in the 5th I'll end up adopting? I look forward to that simple pleasure, among others.

Someone mentioned Spring. I spoke to Daniel Rose yesterday, and he is indeed taking some time off (most of March anyway). We talked for a while. Very nice guy. FWIW, he said that La Bigarrade in the 17th is a favorite "off the radar" restaurant of his.

Maybe we'll have a neighborhood cafe in common, Daniel! Yes, the GTG starts there.

I'm very grateful to Ann for introducing me to the apartment. It's owned by friends of hers who don't list it commercially. Ann also introduced me to my favorite cottages in the Loire Valley, recently named as a Slowtrav favorite. I've often thought that one could do a lot worse than following Ann around Europe. She really does her research and finds great rentals!

quote:

She really does her research and finds great rentals!

She's pretty good on restaurants, too

Jonathan

Ah, Jonathan, are we by any chance dreaming of La Belle Etoile? And thanks, Chris - but instead of following me, let's go at the same time. That would be a lot more fun. And Chris, I want to pass on a tip from Americana in Parigi, assuming that you like oysters. Go to the local poisonnerie at Place Maubert and order a dozen (well, we ordered TWO, to be honest) -- go shopping and when you come back in an hour, the oysters will be shucked and packaged, ready to take home and eat at much less cost than in an oyster bar.

This is a fun post. It makes me want to go back to France. I hope you blog while you are there so we can experience your days in Paris. I see you've done a couple of recent posts in your blog on your planning. I'm looking forward to hearing more.

Have a wonderful trip.

This is what I did in Feb. 2006.
They wouldn't print it here. I guess too many errors

http://tinyurl.com/ytr3kb

quote:

Originally posted by cigalechanta:
http://tinyurl.com/ytr3kb

FYI, this link does not work.

SORRY! it worked for me???

Cigalechanta's trip report

(edited by kaydee to add paragraph breaks)
(edited by Chris to change to link to trip report)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Chris,

This is a brilliant thread. We have just booked an apartment in the lower 9th, St. Georges area for a month but not until May 2009. Lots of time to read these fantastic ideas. Keep them coming. I really like the idea of making a coffee shop your regular haunt, great tip. Loved all the other ideas too, even with a month I know the time will fly. Thanks, PipK.

pipk,

The delightful café-filled place Gustave Toudouze, as suggested by Laidback, is a stone's throw from you.
The restaurant Spring is also just a short walk (but the time to book is now. I just booked for early May, which is the earliest date the restaurant has a table!
For all those living in the 9th arrondissement, besides having one's own café and one's own addresses, there is also this newsletter to help us keep track of the neighborhood scene. Sorriest in French only:
http://kermoal.typepad.fr/dailyneuvieme/2008/02/tous-lopra-garn.html

quote:

Sorriest in French only:

For our non French speaking friends, you can always type a web address into the Babel Fish Translation window and see what you get. The translations are far from perfect, and it won't translate text that's embedded in an image, but usually you get the general gist of what's being presented.

I would take a tango class here is a site that is updated daily.

YOu can also rent some bikes and go to the Marne valley with the RER A (i think) and ride along the Marne have lunch at the floating cafe where the impressionists painted. I can't remember the name for the floating cafe.

quote:

Originally posted by tuscanartist:
... ride along the Marne have lunch at the floating cafe where the impressionists painted. I can't remember the name for the floating cafe.

Would you mean Chez Gégène in Joinville, where Dominique Sanda and Stefania Zandrelli ended up after a winey dinner and where they danced the tango in "The Conformist"? Possibly my all-time fave movie scene.
Chez Gégène is a real "guinguette" by the river and not on a boat though...

Dear Amer. in Par.,

Now you see why I was semi-secretive about hiding the identity of "my" apt. in the 9th It appears that pipk has rented it next May. pipk, are you staying at the Rochefoucauld, 2 BR apt.? If so I can suggest some good restos, boulangeries, etc. in the area, having stayed there for about 6 months and will again this Apr./May. The apt. is spacious, nicely furnished and quiet.

Chris - thinking about your question, I was reminded today of another place I'd put on our "to see" list for Paris - one we never managed to get to. It is the Jardins japonais Albert Kahn, and would seem to be a serene and interesting place to wander for a couple of hours.

I learned about this garden from Wendyash in this earlier threadthat is chock full of other good ideas.

Judy

ps: are you SURE there isn't room for me in your suitcase?

quote:

guinguette

Yes that is the name. I know it is not a boat but a floating cafe. There are some famous paintings in the Orsay of partie on the guingette on the Marne.

Yes, it's the Fornaise.

Laidback, I guess I am!!! sshh, I am glad you have enjoyed the apartment, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Trying to keep it quiet also, but the cat is out of the bag.
How can you manage to stay for two months? No pets? I stress at leaving my fuzzy friends behind when we go away. Otherwise I would love to stay in France for three months.
I know it is ages away but as we arrive on May st. which is a public holiday could you keep your eyes open as to any food shops open on that day for basics? Many thanks, PipK ps are you going back to Paris next year?

Cigale's rainy days in Paris ..(Mimi's Trip Report)...

Mid afternoon my friend, M. picked me up at my hotel. We ate a late lunch at his local café in the Palais Royale

Cigalechanta, we may have mutual friends here in M.O. and S.E. If so, I adore both of them and have gotten together with M each of the three or four times that I visited Paris. Awesome people! I say you maybe talking about the same people because of the same restaurant and bar.... etc. Small world!

Will post more when I return, but wanted to day that pedmar's suggestion of Pot de Terre for dinner the night of the GTG is a good one. We ate there lsat night and enjoyed it. It is a three minute walk from our apartment. We each had the 16 euro menu with different courses, and enjoyed it all. The staff was great and atmosphere perect. Depending on how many go, I would seriously recommend reservations. It is not large.

Kaydee, it is a good apartment. Cozy, yes, but we like it and I think you will. I will do a review and report back in more detail next week.

Of to bed. Tomorrow is Vincennes and who knows what else.

It's good to hear from you, Dan! I've been wondering how your trip was going.

Kathy will be happy and relieved to hear the news about the apartment, I'm sure!

Cigale, your report is délicieux .
Hey you spelled Dries right, which is all that matters !
By the way, you can usually can find Dries at Colette (rue St Honoré).

I truly hope you not mind my mentioning the spelling. You know, your reports cite great insiders' addresses. People are going to mark those and try to find them on the internet. It is very frustrating not to be able to find such gems of addresses.
That is why when it comes to geographical names, I try to write them correctly (and I make mistakes too) and I allow myself to correct others. I hope you don't feel the correction was a put-down. Au contraire, I want more people to enjoy your addresses because they are the kind of gems that no tourist can find.
For example, I myself have spelled Laroque d'Athernon all kinds of ways. It is a wonderful and ill-known classical music festival. It really deserves to be better known. It seems the name is misspelled not just by me, but by everyone. It is a joyous mess trying to find the right info about it on the net. Maybe that is part of the reason why it is not well known.

And such an apt thing to say about the Nissim de Camondo museum (which someone else spelled as Commando!).

You are literally all over the Paris map. 7lézards and New Morning are my 2 Paris jazz bars. Especially 7lézards, one group often plays my husband's compositions.