I'm in the beginning stages of planning one of my trips next summer. I've always wanted to photograph Provence in July (lavender! sunflowers!) , and when I heard Lance MIGHT race, well, why not fit it all in?
My educated guess is that we will arrive in Paris on July 16-17, and end up in Provence some days later... and back in Paris again either Friday the 24th or Sat the 25th in order to settle in to see the final-final stage on Sunday (which would be smarter? arrive Friday or Saturday to Paris?).
I want to see the riders out in the field, though, too. (and if I could get them flying past some fields of flowers, well, that would be heaven).
I cut and pasted from the other thread the current route (adding in July 21, because we raised St. Bernards when I was a wee lass, and IF we are up to it, that might even be a place to see the "home" of the dogs and perhaps the racers - time permitting of course, which it may not be due to the short stay...)
What are our best bets for viewing, do you think? I'm thinking Annecy would be pretty, arrive Wed night and leave Friday morning for Paris. Is that going to be too flat to see much - I understand they are really really fast and then they are gone. Would Wednesday's stage be better?
and would it be complete and utter madness to try to view the Mont Ventoux stage and still get to Paris that evening? I would expect normally it would not be impossible, but who knows how many roads are closed off for this...
the sched:
Tues July 21, stage 16: Martigny - Bourg-St-Maurice (via col du Grand-St-Bernard and Petit-St-Bernard) Wed July 22, stage 17: Bourg-St-Maurice - Le Grand Bornand (via 5 climbs, starting with Cormet de Roselend, finishing with col de la Colombière) Thurs July 23, stage 18: Annecy, ITT 40km Fri July 24, stage 19: Bourgoin - Jallieu-Aubenas Sat July 25, stage 20: Montélimar - Le Mont Ventoux Sun July 26, stage 21: Montereau - Paris/Champs-Elysées
Le Tour is a very big deal and mountain stages are literally impossible for day trippers. (Ventoux - Paris is NOT even romotely possible) Roads are closed hours before and an hour after they pass. Mountain roads are closed off and on days before and after for the "amateurs" to try their legs. Any finish of the stage city will be impossible to get a hotel unless you book now. Generally plan on a number of hours for the event regardless where you end up.
We spent 3 nights on Col du Galibier in order to watch them come by in a flash.
Worth every minute of it. You can see our report here
Thanks! So it sounds like Thursday viewing may be our best bet, and take off Friday for Paris. That would probably work better anyway, since we can spend Thurs-Fri-Sat of arrival week in Paris... head to Provence for Sunday-Tues, and Tues night/Wed morning head to Annecy or thereabouts and take off Friday morning for Paris.
If Annecy is completely and totally booked (likely) where might a good in between point be, in your estimation? (To stay, and then view the Tour...)
Sunday afternoon in Paris would be the least hassle. Take an hour or 2 off from touring and pick a spot. Champs will be more crowded than the approach streets and those will be easier to access the metro.
Woodstock, we had the chance to see the Tour de France in Provence two summers ago and it was a great experience. The whole thing did take us most of a day, and yes-- they are by in the blink of an eye. We were on the uphill portion of a little mountain pass, actually on a curve-- so we had a longer view than most people.
As Tom said, you must stake out a spot well in advance, before they block off the road. Everything is very festive and so many people are there. We took a picnic lunch, but there was a lot of waiting. (Be sure to get a shady spot.) We really enjoyed the "caravane," which lasted quite a while and we got lots of give-aways. And we were there with a group which made it fun too. For us, it was just one day out of a month's stay, so we really enjoyed the experience andd didn't mind spending a whole day. I posted about our experience in my blog here if you want to get a better idea of what to expect.
As far as lavender in Provence, I'd encourage you to get there as early in July as your schedule allows. We were in Provence in summer 2006 and 2007 and as you moved into the end of July the lavender was past its peak and had been harvested in some places. But it is absolutely beautiful. (See these photos taken in early July, mostly near Mont Ventoux.)
Kathy
This message has been edited. Last edited by: kaydee,
Kaydee, thank you so much! I haven't checked the board in a few days (crazy at work, then the entire day Sunday was spent driving to my beach house - I have the week off, yay!). At any rate, sorry for the late reply.
Your blog post was great to read, thanks! You've also given me yet another book to buy (French Revolutions). Lovely photos - and lucky you to housesit in Bonnieux. I don't think we will be in Provence much before the 20th, alas. Either we show up in the earlier part of July (thereby missing the end of the Tour, which I currently think I'd most like to see) or the latter part. I have 4.5 weeks of vacation per year but I'm already planning a trip to France for the D-Day celebrations (taking my Dad) as well as other odds and ends during the year - I don't believe I'll have enough time to make this trip a full two weeks (earlier arrival).
How early is the Lavender? Currently the Normandy trip will start late May and end June 8, I suppose I could consider arriving June 3 and leave for home on June 21 - and make the second trip solely about the Tour - a short 5 day trip, ending in Paris. That almost sounds too early for the flowers though - we'd have to be back in Paris June 20 (my birthday!) in order to fly home June 21.
How are the local celebrations the day BEFORE the Tour passes through?
Woodstock, this website on the Lavender Roads of Provence has been mentioned on the message board before and might be helpful to you.
As far as timing, I think the later in June the better. (Our first visit to Provence was the first week of June and the tips of the flowers were just starting to turn purple when we left.) It seems to vary from year to year, and the altitude can also make a difference. See this post from Kevin Widrow about lavender on one of the high plateaus on June 7, 2007. You could also do a search on "lavender" (used the "find" button above) and read some other threads.
Even if you arrive a bit before the lavender peaks, I think Provence in June is wonderful.
Unfortunately many of the links on the site are not active but you can still find some good information. Under Travelling - the news of the week link works off the left navigation bar. It lists the different areas and their blooming times. The earliest is mid-June but it would all depend upon the weather.
Here is another set of blog posts to tempt you. They don't mention much on when they went other than suggesting July and August.
If it helps, as far as lavender viewing goes, while there is nothing ever guaranteed, the best bet for peak viewing are the 2nd and 3rd weeks of July. Afterwards, fields start to be harvested and although it can still be impressive even through the first week in august, the number of blooming fields does start to thin out. Late June and early July are also lovely, though the plants tend to look more green and lush wihtout yet the full lavender blooms.
Note that the above applies to the main lavender growing regions at high altitude (the plateau d'Albion and Valensole). Lower down, you will find things sped up by a few weeks, so that there are fields in full bloom in the valleys late June. These are also beautiful, but just not the "oceans" you might have pictured in your mind.
I think you could easily do either of the following:
1) Paris - Provence - Annency for the tour
2) Paris to Provence - and catch the Montelimar-Ventoux stage (just plan on seeing it somewhere before the climb because trying to be up on the mountain will involve some complicated and time-consuming logistics. By the way, if you went with this option, it would not be pushing it at all to see the Tour go through and then ove to the TGV and on to Paris.
Thanks so much! As the planning progresses (the nitty gritty involving maps, hotel reservations n such) I'll know more and may even post back again. I know the buzzwords are Valensole and Sault (and Abbey de Senanque). I might even be able to fit in the Valensole lavender festival too.
I like having trips to plan, it helps the winter go by more quickly (or at least you can ignore the weather...)
Bonjour - The tour is such a fun experience - I wish you luck in your planning. We have been the last two years in a row once in Maussane and once in St. Remy. It is a day of it! I know you talked a lot about the lavender and I am afraid you will find that most of the area (especially around les Alpilles) will be void of sunflowers, too. They are generally faded by the second week of July and harvested before the end of July. Perhaps in higher elevations in the Luberon there are fields in bloom later in the season - someone here may know.
Kevin, in reading this again, I had another question if you have time!
quote:
2) Paris to Provence - and catch the Montelimar-Ventoux stage (just plan on seeing it somewhere before the climb because trying to be up on the mountain will involve some complicated and time-consuming logistics. By the way, if you went with this option, it would not be pushing it at all to see the Tour go through and then ove to the TGV and on to Paris.
Assuming we try for the Saturday option... we would leave our Provence locale on Friday to head to the next locale for Saturday viewing. I am not sure if the precise route is out yet, but what town do you think would be a good option to stay and view and then head to Paris, please?
I'm starting to think we may fly in the previous Saturday and go straight to Provence and spend the week there tooling around... with Saturday departure for Paris and stay through Wednesday after the Tour is over -i.e. put Paris last and all in one visit instead of split up.
Are the ITTs actually great for viewing or is it better to see them out in the field? Annecy certainly looks beautiful but it could shorten the Provence portion unless I move more things around.
I have secured lodging for our stay in Provence. For two nights we will be in St Remy at Hotel sous les Figuiers, and the next 5 nights near Aubignan at Domaine Le Vallon. They are fairly close to Sault and we will be well poised to see the Tour on that Saturday (at least the flat portion) and then head to Avignon to catch the train to Paris that evening.
For anyone with experience - what timeframe may we expect the Tour to pass through Sault, and, considering we will hoof it to the train in Avignon immediately afterwards - are we "safe" in securing 8 PM tickets to Paris before we leave or are we really risking getting caught in awful traffic between Sault and Avignon?
Also, should I get those tickets ASAP? Will the train "sell out" if we do not do that soon?
The funny thing about the tour is how little commercialization there is around it. Remember you are in France not the US. You won't see days of "celebration" leading up to it. You won't even find a single tee shirt to be sold (they are sold from little vans that pass with the caravan). Really, if it wasn't for the nondescript road closing signs that are sparsely placed in an area around the tour - you wouldn't even know it is coming through the town/village you are staying at.
So, rest assured, you won't be hit with a big traffic jam leaving a tour passing - it really is immediately business as usual.
Hard to give a precise answer at this time. I have not been able to locate the estimated time of arrival that is usually published. Perhaps that will come out later. My best guess therefore would be arrival in Sault between 2 and 4. That is dependent on departure time of the stage. Since you are around 50 miles from Avignon give yourself at least 90 minutes travel time, perhaps more. However I suggest that you park your car on a road that does not have to use nor cross the race route as the potential for delay is present. They may keep those roads closed for an hour or so after the race.
IMHO your plan is doable with pragmatic planning as to a race overlook position that is geared more to departure opportunities.
If returning a car to Avignon TGV take care to know exactly where the drop off point is on the back side of the station AND how to get there. We drove round and round a couple of times until we figured out what road took us there from the front of the station. It is a bit tricky and confusing.
Book train now? I do not have enough experience in that. Probably would be a good idea.
Enjoy the day and dress comfortably and a cheap throw away folding chair would be a good idea too.
Also, should I get those tickets ASAP? Will the train "sell out" if we do not do that soon?
Woodstock, sometimes trains do sell out, but the biggest reason for buying tickets in advance is to get a lower price. You can normally buy tickets beginning 90 days in advance.
Your last post inspired me to check out the Tour website which has now been updated with route details.
Looks like it will pass through Sault and then over the Col Notre-Dame des Abeilles before finally heading for the Mt. Ventoux.
That means your plan will work without any difficulty. I'd recommend staking out a place on the ascent up to the Col Notre-Dame (perhaps near the village of Monnieux) - and make sure you are parked south of the D1. Then once the Tour has passed, you'll have an easy drive south to St. Saturnin - from where it is an hour to the TGV station in Avignon. I'm thinking the Tour will come through Sault around mid-day - so catching an 8PM train will not be a problem.
As Monnieux is only about 20 minutes from my place, I'm sure I'll go again this year and probably post closer to the date with further info.
Like I said, keep your eyes on this space and I'll try to post something maybe beginning of July. Last few years I've organized an outing with guests and friends and it's worked out great. Nice to be able to picnic and socialize during the long wait before the 30 seconds of excitement !
How do the riders get to the next starting line after Mont Ventoux? I assume they have private travel secured?
The "Tour" is a manner of speech. It is not an uninterrupted riding tour after all. Often between étapes, the riders are transported, instead of riding to the next start.
I am not sure what 40, 38, 36 mean, but, they are due to occur at 14:15, 14:25, and 14:36.
Monieux is after that, which I understand from Kevin perhaps that is the place to be?
If that is the case, what time does any expert reading this think Mom and I will safely be on our way to Avignon in the car... and what time do you think is "safe" to get TGV tickets to Paris? Is 1800 (6 PM) cutting it close?
I had thought 8 PM, but, 6 PM train would mean dinner in Paris. If we go for the 8 PM train, it MIGHT mean a brief stroll in Avignon before we even get the train. Maybe.
Well, I was just up that way yesterday (hiking the Mount Ventoux, in fact) and I can say that things are already buzzing up there in anticipation. According to an article I read in the paper, they are expecting upwards of 1/2 million tourists coming to view this second to last stage of the Tour...
I scouted out a great spot near Monieux. You couldn't pay me enough to tempt a viewing near the finish on the Mount Ventoux itself. I want to be in a spot where I can watch them come through in relative comfort, then make a quick and unhindered getaway afterwards.
Based on the times posted, it looks like the riders should be coming through Monieux around 2:30PM - to get to Avignon after that, you should plan on heading south towards Apt, then over to Avignon from there, thus avoiding the craziness around Bedoin, Carpentras, etc. Figure 45 minutes to Apt, then another hour to Avignon - so you could make a 6PM train, but it is not leaving too much room for error...
-Kevin
p.s.: I am definitely planning on organizing an outing. I will post here as we get a bit closer and you (and anyone else out there) are certainly more than welcome to join.
Just checking in! Any new news on the outing? I am thinking it might even be a good idea for Mom and I to do a "dry run" of our escape route before that Saturday.
Mom and I leave one week from today.
There is a very good chance I will have my laptop but it's not 100%. If you post here after July 16, could you also send me an email please? I will have my blackberry for sure.
Been meaning to post here to update, but it's been tough to find the time. La Provence newspaper had a section on the Ventoux stage recently where they said they expect 400,000-500,000 spectators ! Yikes... I repeat my advice NOT to try to get onto the Ventoux itself unless you plan on arriving very early and getting stuck in lots of traffic afterwards. Also, anywhere near the top you'll be 100% exposed to the sun and wind and heat - could be thrilling, but sure to be exhausting...
I'm sticking to my plan of viewing in Monieux.
Send me an email and I'll give you more details and anyone else interested in going, keep an eye out here and I'll post as to a meeting place and time a few days before the event.
-Kevin
p.s.: AinP is spot-on concerning the lavender and Monieux. It's all really starting to peak around there and absolutely fabulous viewing this year.
We will be driving up from Nice to Bonnieux on Saturday 25 August. I'm toying with your idea of going to Monieux area to catch a glimpse of the Tour... Any suggestions for a good place and/or how early we might need to get there to stake it out? We need to be back in Bonnieux no later than 6pm but it doesn't seem like that should be too much of a stretch??? We were already planning to get away from Nice early but not sure if we need to get a spot staked out for viewing hours before the riders pass through or not...
Assuming you meant July 25th - August will be a tad late to catch the tour !
I'm putting up a new post with details for anyone who wants to join me heading to Monieux for catching the Tour - your welcome to join.
The riders themselves should come through Monieux around 2PM - so if you left Nice early enough you should be OK. Most traffic that weekend should be heading in the opposite direction - sort of - but still you can expect busy conditions totally unrelated to the Tour. Getting to Bonnieux by 6PM will not be a problem. It's only about a 45 minute drive from Monieux.
D943 north from St. Saturnin - then the D5 and D96 to Monieux. Then a little side street that cuts from the village up to the D1 (where the Tour comes through)...
the only part of my plan which is slightly up in the air is the last bit - we'll just have to see how it goes and if the small side street is shut, we'll go with plan B (to be made up on the spot) !