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Slow Traveler
Posted
Hello;
This year we're contemplating visiting an area completely new to us. Any assistance/suggestions posters can provide is appreciated.

AREA: Jaen province, more specifically Ubeda and Cazorla (Sierra de Segura park)areas
TIME of YEAR: mid-February to mid-March - unfortunately, family duties require us home prior to Santa Semana.Of the total time probably only a week or two in Jaen province.
INTERESTS: history, local festivals, walking, photography

QUESTIONS/NEEDS:
1. suggestions regarding budget-priced accommodation (EU50-60/night, double or a weekly let of an apartment)
2. local restaurants
3. for a splurge - any thoughts on the paradors in the area (Jaen, Ubeda, Cazorla)?
4. must sees/must avoids in the area
5. general comments on the weather. I didn't notice any winter road closures in the mountain passes on my Michelin map. Will walking trails be in OK shape?

As always. Many thanks.
Dennis
 
Posts: 205 | Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada | Registered: 08 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
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a unique area, being a while not by it, but probably will go close to it this summer,as my annual time in Spain is up.

the time of the year is good, unless you ventures into the mountains can be chilly.
to try to answer your question in my opinion, probably with a local guy taste is
1) best bet in Jaén, and you must check if still does, the info is about 5 yrs old: is Condestable Iranzo, city center, big rooms AC with parking garage, about 65 euros in your time frame. Next to the bus station is Rey Fernando with AC for about 55 euros.

2) the best in my opinion is Casa Antonio,AC with private parking (i always use the car) handle the food by Antonio himself, each dish carries a different plate design ,with good choice of wines: dishes go from 8 to 10 euros try salteado de chipirones al curri con verduras crujientes (== little squids salted in a tomato base sauce with curry and crunchy vegetables).
3) Do not know the paradores, never try them in the area
4) loaded with Romans ruins, and one of the best iberian museums in the provincial museum of bellas artes; thursdays is market day, Arco de San Lorenzo,cultural arts exhibits, the center is a historical monument. Capilla de San Andrés;Castle of Santa Catalina of arabics origins, Catedral amongst many sites .
very tranquil area, nothing bad to point out.
5) do not know about walking trails,but the weather is pleasant ,no blockage of passes at that time .

If you have time visit nearby towns such as Baeza,nearby is the torrèon Puerta de Ubeda,you can get good value products from the region including olive oil,and ceramics. Bailén is another nice picturesque town, first defeat of Napoleon troops in Spain.Cazorla, many museums and horse trails rides if still running you can contact Marcos Ruiz at +34 953 721 910.
Linares, where in its bullfighting ring die one of the great ones of all time,and my own favorite Manolete (manuel rodriguez sanchez), also the birthplace of one of Spain and the spanish speaking world best singer, the monster of the song, Raphael, El Niño de Linares (the son of Linares) also Ubeda, many museums of note the Hospital de Santiago (st james hospital) a smaller replica of El Escorial near Madrid.

enjoy Spain,just a proud ending. Wink
 
Posts: 3500 | Registered: 17 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Slow Traveler
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My google map [http://www.slowtrav.com/gmaps/viewmap.asp?map=24] has some information on Ubeda, Baeza and Cazorla. There is a bus from Cazorla at an unfortunately early hour of the morning to Coto Rios in the national park. if you get off at Trre vinagre [also on the map] you can do a fine walk from there and easily get back in time for the return afternoon bus.
I think the Hostal Guadalquivir in Cazorla would meet most people's needs - it suited me fine. I had to leave jaen fairly quickly and did not get up to the parador - but it's one mighty fine setting.
 
Posts: 176 | Location: Todmorden, UK | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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To the both of you, thank you very much. As always your suggestions andinsights are very helpful.
Dennis
 
Posts: 205 | Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada | Registered: 08 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Moderator &
SlowBowl Skipper
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Dennis - the parador in Jaen looks AMAZING. And it looks like they have fantastic rates that time of year, especially if you utilize one of the specials. Still a bit over your budget, but to stay in a 13th century arab fortress? WOW.

Jaen Parador

I look forward to hearing more about your plans, and reading your report.
 
Posts: 4922 | Location: Ocean Beach, California | Registered: 20 March 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Slow Traveler
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Shannon:
It indeed does look interesting. I have heard that the Parador itself is a modern reconstruction. The Ubeda one is supposed to be a modernization of an existing hertage building.

We take advantage of the seniors' rates and Amigos de Paradores promotions to help with the expense. Our most enchanting Parador experience was at Alarcon. Our least favourable one (apart from the view) was Toledo.

Dennis
 
Posts: 205 | Location: Calgary, Alberta Canada | Registered: 08 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Traveler
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Dennis,
The Jaen Parador, sitting high above the city, is amazing for it views and one of the best places to stay in the city, but I think you'll find the Parador in Úbeda a little calmer and relaxing, at least I did. Their restaurant also serves an excellent meal.
 
Posts: 10 | Location: USA | Registered: 04 January 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Moderator &
SlowBowl Skipper
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Welcome to slowtalk euskarian - I hope you'll write some reviews for us (hotels, restaurants etc) on www.slowtrav.com since you seem to have a lot of experience that we can all benefit from.

Good to know about the restaurant in Ubeda - I've enjoyed most meals I've had at paradors but some were definitely something to write about and, some not.

Looking forward to hearing more!
 
Posts: 4922 | Location: Ocean Beach, California | Registered: 20 March 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi Denis,
Here are a couple of alternatives for you - The Casa del Consul in Ubeda is a gorgeous little Hotel, whilst the Puerta de la Luna in Baeza is larger and has a more "Hotel" feel but the restoration of the old building is stunning.-both a very good price, especially if you avoid Friday and Saturday nights (the Spanish do love their weekends away!) Both are in the historic quarters of the towns which are stunningly beautiful and World Heriatge sites.

The Parador in Jaen is a re-construction (as are many of the Paradors. Sadly, their reputation has gone down hill quite a bit in the last few years as the staff are government employees and get jobs for life, therefore customer service is not always given the importance it should be given. Staff sometimes lack motivation and when talking to a manager once he told me that this is because so many American and Japanese tour oprators use them as a one night stopover whilst visiting cities, the staff never have a chance to get to know any of the guests as they arrive by coach one evening and leave immediately after breakfast the next morning. Like you and Shannon, I have had some good and some (very) bad experiences in the Parador restaurants. The Toledo one stands out as particularly bad where I was served venison with a packet jam tart on top and packet mashed potato (all after being kept waiting for 60 minutes!!)Yuk!

Michael
 
Posts: 193 | Location: Spain | Registered: 21 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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