I'm looking for help on a leg of a trip to northern Spain I'm planning for late September-early October. (It will be our first trip to Spain, so we're covering more territory than a good Slow Traveler should. With plans to return for longer stays in favorite places.) After a bit of time in the Aragonese Pyrenees, we'll be moving our base to Santilla del Mar for a couple of days. Then I have two nights to spend before arriving in Santiago de Compostella (I know DavidX doesn't care for the city, but I'm fascinated with the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage and hopr to walk it one day.) I had thought about spending a night in the Picos de Europa and a night in Leon. But would it be better to follow part of the coast from Cantabria to Santiago? If so, are there towns/hotels you would recommend? We prefer rural/historical experiences to major urban ones. I also have two nights to plan between Salamanca and our flight out from Madrid, if you have any suggestions. Thanks for your thoughts.

I would try to stay in one spot for the two nights, and not split it up between two. It would be hard for me to choose between the coastal drive and the Picos, because they are both so beautiful. We loved our two days in Cervera de Pisuerga, we stayed at the parador there. It was a great base to explore the Picos, and while I think it would be somewhat easy to get there from Santillana del Mar, it would not be so easy to get from there to Santiago de Compostela.

The north coast of Asturias is stunning, and you could choose a base there for a couple of nights. Cudillero is a gorgeous, colorful seaside town, though we thought it a bit touristy. Luarca, just up the road, seemed like more of a working city.

So like I said; tough to choose, but I am sure others will chime in.

I loved Santiago de Compostela, make sure to go eat tapas at O Bispo!!

I think you can experience both the coast and the Picos. We used the parador in Santillana del Mar as a base and spent a wonderful day driving through the Picos. We really enjoyed our stay at the the Casa del Busto in Pravia, which would make a good base for a couple of days after Santillana del Mar -- at least it did 10 years ago when we spent over 3 weeks in northern Spain. Do you know where you're staying in Santiago?

It is about a six and a half hour drive from Santillana del Mar to Santiago so we reckon you should be looking at a couple of overnight stops to allow you to explore and be a real Slow Traveller!! That way you could also do the Picos for one night and the coast for another thus making for a more relaxed drive - you will be just a stones throw from the Camino de Santiago whatever you choose. You are spoilt for choice with lovely rural and historic hotels on the way.
After Salamanca (a fabulous city) have you thought of the Gredos mountains - really lovely area - and just a two and a half hour drive to Madrid airport. The Jerte valley in the Northern most part of Extremadura is also wonderful and would be a three hour drive.

Enjoy the research!
Michael

Michael

Just a couple of places to consider if you are interested in the Camino. If you plan on staying in Leon consider the Parador there - San Marcos. Check the paradors' website for special deals.

Astorga is an interesting town as is Villafranca de Bierzo. Cebreiro at the entrance to Galicia is worth a stop.

If you want to experience a day on the Camino the walk out of Sarria is pleasant.

By late September/early October the weather will be changeable. Prepare for a few showery days.

If you are interested, search the photo albums for a couple of picture essays on the Camino.

If you have particular questions and wish to my email is listed in my profile. Label the subject line with something like Camino questions as I delete unknown emails.

Buen Viaje
Dennis

Thank you for your helpful suggestions and please keep them coming. I'll be following up on the leads to communities and hotels. In Santiago, we're staying at the Hotel Costa Vella. My husband is a wildlife biologist and I'm an archaeologist turned historian, so we try to mix natural and cultural experiences. (Re the possibility of showers, we have a major drought going on in Tennessee, and the thought of a rainy day is heavenly.) Also, I want to thank SloTrav for setting up this Iberian message board -- it always seemed to be that Spain deserved its own site and Portugal makes a natural mate.

i think following the coast from Picos and Santillana del Mar to Llanes with the Sierra de Cuera on your back would be breathtaking ,beautiful beaches then a stop at Cangas de Onis, where the Spanish kingdom was born and first capital of the kingdom of Asturias. stoping nearby at Los Arcos av covadonga 17 for a great lunch or stay at the inn ,also Los Lagos de Covadonga at jardines del ayuntamiento 3. many good sidrerias cider bars in town like the same Los Arcos or Molin de la Pedrera, bernabé pendàs 1. this is one of my favorite areas of Spain, which I visit often for many years.

just south in the Picos de Europa ,you will find Covandonga where Don Pelayo king of Asturias started the Reconquest of catholic Spain from the muslins in AD722 (history: Asturias is the only kingdom never to fall to muslins hands hence today the heir to the throne of Spain Prince Felipe is also known as the Prince of Asturias)

you can go to gijon a big town or by pass it for Avilés with a historical center and a nice beach at playa san juan de nieva and its church Iglesia de San Francisco you find the tomb of Pedro Menendez de Aviles founder of Saint Augustine ,Florida (the oldest city in the US 1565).there try a historic resto La Serrana at martinez lacuesta 94 and the cider bar La Cofradia del Puerto, ave Telares 11.continue on to ribadeo where you take the N640 road to Lugo and on the N547 to Santiago de compostela.

Salamanca is magnificent with the grand daddy of Spanish Universities, and the best Plaza Mayor (central plaza) in Spain in my opinion. visit the museo Unamuno, the great Spanish philosopher ( a la Sartre in France, emmanuel Kant,germany, John Locke UK etc etc) also casa de las Conchas and the new and old catedral.
to eat try La riojana Casa vale ,san Pablo 1 corner of Plaza del Peso. sure to please. near the plaza Mayor you will find a whole lot of tapas bar especially on Prado st calle prado and Meson Cervantes, plaza mayor 15. you will come back to Salamanca. you can use the 2 days there and see everything slowly.

hope it helps you decide,if you need more specifics let me know.

Between all your helpful suggestions and the severe drought we're having in Tennessee, I;ve about decided to spend the two days on the coast of Asturias and Galicia on the way to Santiago. The idea of a rainy day be the sea sounds wonderful when you haven't seen a good shower in 6 weeks. Any favorite coastal haunts you can share are welcome.

And thank you for the suggestion re: the Extramadura. We'll sightsee from Salamanca to Guuadalupe, where we'll stay at the Hospederia Real Monasterio, then one to Toledo for our last night (Hotel Santa Isabel) in Spain. I think that should end things on a high note for us.

Great choice!

Here is where we stayed in Cudillero - nice place and if it is the sea you want, this town might be a nice fit as it is right on the water (well not RIGHT on the water but you know what I mean.)

La Casona de Pio

They have a very good restaurant.

You might pick up a Cadogan Guide to Northern Spain - this is a really great guidebook with some very witty writing.

Can't wait to hear about your trip!

Hi Tn,

It sounds like you ahve planned a lovely trip. Santiago is after Rome my favorite city in the world! It is very special.

I was going to suggest that you consider the Parador in Cangas de Onis but see that you will be staying in the coast in Asturias or Galicia on your way to Santiago. I think either Ribadesella, Cudillero or Luarca are good choices.

Please keep us posted!

Thank you for the endorsement of the Cadogan guide -- I've been using it heavily.I've also been consulting the Rough Guide to Spain and Footprints for Northern Spain.I'll post our itinerary soon -- it will seem rather eclectic, I'm sure.

For those interested in Galicia, a new English translation of Rosalia Del Castro's poetry will be available in September and can be ordered at sites like Amazon.

Another good resource for places to stay is Alistair Sawday's guide to special places in Spain. I know that you have a hotel in Santiago already, but we loved our stay at the Casa Grande de Cornide just 10 or 15 minutes from Santiago. BTW, I'm originally from Chattanooga (will be back there in July), and all my mother talks about is the drought.

As always, you're suggestions are appreciated. Ann, my husband is from Chattanooga and still has family there. The drought is even worse in SE Tennessee than the Nashville area -- and my garden here went 6 weeks without measurable rain! Most of Tennessee gets at least 40" a year, so to be down from 11" to 20" in rainfall is very had on us. Climate change may be upon us -- in addition to slow travel, also try to be a green traveler.