I'm mostly a proponent of staying in city centres. It just seems so much easier and convenient. When I think of cities I haven't enjoyed quite so much, coincidentally or not, I've almost always stayed in not quite a central location.
But there are advantages to out-of-centre accommodations - more of a neighborhood feeling, cheaper and more spacious and modern lodging, cheaper food options, greater calm, and so forth.
I'd say the consensus on this board is probably at least 90% for staying in city centres, but I'd be curious to hear which you have found you prefer the most.
This question is urban-oriented, but I'd also be interested in your small-town and rural experiences as well.
Rooms as low as 218 euros per night, calm and luxury in an upscale, leafy neighboorhood with restaurants and cafes nearby. Very easy access to the Port Maillot station of the No. 1 Metro line, which will shoot you to the center of Paris in 15 minutes.
How many people would choose this option? Your estimate of 10 in 100 sounds about right, though I would say more like 5 in 100.
I've done both, depending on a slew of variables. Is it my first visit, or a repeat? How well do the transportation systems of the area work? Is the outerlying area attractive and interesting in its own right? How is my budget doing for this leg of the trip? Are my teens with me, or just my husband? What are my interests for the area? Is the rental/hotel in the outerlying area a super value, or not quite worth the convenience trade-off?
In a larger city, I would prefer to stay within the center. But in a smaller city walkable city, like Florence where I've spent the most time, I've enjoyed staying out of the way of the major attractions (Duomo, Uffizi...) but within the historical center.
The times that I've stated in the San Frediano area of the Oltr'arno, I feel I've had the best of both worlds. Easy walking distance to the major attractions, but away from the crowds that descend hourly in busloads. When I've passed by those crowded piazzas, I feel as if I am in a different city.
Similarly, on my most recent trip to Italy, I enjoyed staying in the smaller town of San Quirico d'Orcia, rather than, say, in Pienza, Montepulciano or Montalcino. It's easier to absorb the feel of the area, I've found, when you are not surrounded by crowds of tourists.
If I were travelling with a teen I might feel differently.
M
Posts: 6926 | Location: Montclair, NJ, USA | Registered: 16 March 2003
On our long trip we stayed right in the middle of the city in London, Paris, Barcelona, Florence, Venice, Rome and Munich.
But our time near Edinburgh was different. I originally thought I'd want to stay right in the city, but rentals were much more expensive than I had thought. I found a small cottage across the firth that was half the price of a city rental, a mile from a train station. We could be in Edinburgh in 20 minutes by train. We ended up spending three of our days in the city and three of our days in the country.
We also enjoyed staying in the countryside near Salzburg-- first time we had done that. We could get into Salzburg in 30 minutes by car and did that three or four times over two weeks. But we ended up spending most of our time out in the Salzkammergut.
If you plan to spend some part of your time outside the city, it can make sense-- and be much more economical-- to stay outside. Especially if it is very easy to get into the city on public transportation.
I've stayed in both, and I actually don't feel satisfied unless I can walk out the door of the apartment or hotel and very quickly be a part of a town or city I have travelled so far to be a part of! Does that make sense? (It is 3.45am here.) On the trips where we ended up in out of the way locations, the ski resort in Tonezza or the apartment outside Albenga - well - we read a lot of books, watched TV, and got in the car a lot just to get out of the apartment. In juxtaposition to this is a stay in Castello in Venice or in Piazza La Cisterna in San Gimignao for a week or more. Outside your door or within 50 metres is the whole Italian world. Cafes, trattorias, handbag shops, gelato, art galleries and glorious churches with Tintorettos, frescoes and if you look up - angels in the architecture.
Personally I prefer at easy walking distance from the city center (20 30 min max) in big places and in the countryside when visiting small villages: no parking problems and you can choose a different village every night for your glass of wine, coffee or dinner.
I always like to stay in the historic centre, even if it means paying more and getting less. I travel alone, and am not by nature a 'brave' person, so I like to be a short walk from at least 2 or 3 places that are at the top of my list. That makes my first day or two easy, and then once I am comfortable, I go further afield. I also find it more convenient for evenings, as I can go for a short walk and have dinner without going too far from home.
Also, because I travel alone, I don't find it cost effective or practical to rent a car (no navigator!), so I tend to spend my time in cities since it's easier to get around. One of these years I may opt for a car and a 'countryside' trip, but for now, it's historic centres all the way for me.
Posts: 684 | Location: Toronto | Registered: 18 February 2006
Interesting question. In 2003 and 2004, I rented the same Rome apartment, on via Flaminia Vecchia, near the Ponte Milvio, for 15 days each time. This is about a half an hour (via two buses) to the center of Rome, 15 minutes to the Ottaviano metro stop.
Last year, I was lucky enough to win in the Slowtrav contest a week at Comfortitalia's Farnese II, smack dab in media res. And this year, back I go, to via Flaminia.
It is purely ecomonics for me: I can't find affordable lodgings for one in the center of Rome. It is a trade-off, inconvenience for simoleans. But by now, I really love "my" neighborhood and I feel more at home there than I do in the middle of the historic center. I get to live, albeit briefly, in a totally Roman neighborhood, hearing Italian only, loving my local bar, stores, vendors, everything that makes up a neighborhoody feeling. I find that I plan my days better, knowing that I have only one shot at that particular day, so to speak.
And yet, and yet...there is something totally magical to fall out of the apartment door and be in the piazza Farnese! The convenience, as well as the wonder, of staying in central Rome would incline me to urge others, especially first-timers, to do everything they can to be in the magic, central zone.
But I have made a most happy compromise with my location, and I love it, and I can't wait to be back.
So I don't know which is better; I just know that outside the center works fine for me.
Robert, I hope you've posted a report on your vie Flaminia Vecchia apartment. To put it mildly, my budget is modest and I couldn't dream of renting a decent flat dead centre. I've stayed in less touristed parts of Rome (alas, long ago and no logs) and really enjoyed the "daily life" of Romans.
My longest stay was in Gianicolo (one month), and when I didn't feel like the long, long walk, I'd take the bus down through Trastevere and change or get out and walk at Largo Argentina (yes, the cats...). Gianicolo is pleasant and green, and the air is good.
In Paris, I definitely prefer to be in a "quartier" slightly outside the city centre, whether Batignolles, Clichy/Montmartre, Belleville/Ménilmontant or Happy's neighbourhood in the 11th. Almost all of Paris within the périphérique (beltway) has interesting architecture, whether grand or quaint and modest, and I like to have normal city services: supermarkets, ordinary cafés where people have a quick coffee or drink, outdoor markets aimed at neighbourhood people. Public transport is so good in Paris that most places are accessible in a reasonable time, and the city is too big to really expect to go everywhere on foot.
The last time I was in Paris for an extended stay (two weeks) I was in a flat in Ménilmontant just above rue des Pyrénnées - I guess I like heights! An ordinary, multicultural but quiet neighbourhood with a good market, supermarkets, newsagents and other daily life amenities. I walked to Père Lachaise and painted there almost every day. Went down "into town" a few times, mostly via the bus downhill on rue de Ménilmontant (spectacular view), visited Parisian friends and saw a couple of galleries, went to the Latin Quarter once to look at bookshops, but otherwise pretty much stayed in "my" neighbourhood. But I've been to Paris many times, so I felt no urge to see everything.
Posts: 868 | Location: Montréal | Registered: 29 January 2006
Originally posted by Robert Santa Monica: Interesting question. In 2003 and 2004, I rented the same Rome apartment, on via Flaminia Vecchia, near the Ponte Milvio, for 15 days each time. This is about a half an hour (via two buses) to the center of Rome, 15 minutes to the Ottaviano metro stop.
Last year, I was lucky enough to win in the Slowtrav contest a week at Comfortitalia's Farnese II, smack dab in media res. And this year, back I go, to via Flaminia.
It is purely ecomonics for me: I can't find affordable lodgings for one in the center of Rome. It is a trade-off, inconvenience for simoleans. But by now, I really love "my" neighborhood and I feel more at home there than I do in the middle of the historic center. I get to live, albeit briefly, in a totally Roman neighborhood, hearing Italian only, loving my local bar, stores, vendors, everything that makes up a neighborhoody feeling. I find that I plan my days better, knowing that I have only one shot at that particular day, so to speak.
And yet, and yet...there is something totally magical to fall out of the apartment door and be in the piazza Farnese! The convenience, as well as the wonder, of staying in central Rome would incline me to urge others, especially first-timers, to do everything they can to be in the magic, central zone.
But I have made a most happy compromise with my location, and I love it, and I can't wait to be back.
So I don't know which is better; I just know that outside the center works fine for me.
Yrs, Robert
Robert is there a review on this apartment? Do you rent this thru the owner or an agency? WOuld like to check it out...thanks!
Posts: 1366 | Location: Seattle - next is Isla Mujeres,MX in December, then its Paris in March, then hopefully England! | Registered: 02 May 2005
In general, I stay in the city, but I've had two different "out-of-city" experiences that I can think of. The first was in Rome. I can't even remember where I stayed, but it was a neighborhood with only one restaurant (where we didn't feel comfortable... it was more of a party place) and tons of buildings. Every morning it was a hassle to have to catch the bus to the metro to wherever we were going, especially since the bus was usually filled with sweaty men who wanted to put their hands on me! (I had to get off very quickly one time when I ended up staring straight into the dripping armpit of a guy who casually draped his arm around me to reach the overhead bar!) So that was not a thrilling experience. Also, on that trip we didn't have much time to spend exploring outside the main attractions, so hanging out in our own neighborhood was not really something we wanted to do.
My other experience was in Prague. I was traveling with a group so I had no control over where we stayed, and it turned out that the place we booked (a hotel) was at the last stop on one of the metro lines, and then a good hefty walk up a hill. All of this in freezing temperatures, no less! However, this turned out to be one of the most interesting and fun experiences on the trip. Why? Because in Prague, riding the metro all the way to the end means that you get to ride with all of the local workers, the people who live and go to school there. I encountered lots of interesting people, and all of them found US very interesting because we were the only "foreigners" who dared to come out so far! The only thing near our hotel (which was an experience in itself) was the bottom floor of a huge apartment building that housed workers too poor to live in the city. There was a little grocery store, and hanging out here was great because we interacted with the people. It just felt totall genuine and authentic, and I would do it again in a second. It allowed us to see another side of Prague that would not have been visible otherwise.
It's true, I have never written a review of the apartment I rent, though I have often thought about it. One reason I haven't is that I had (until my lucky last year) nothing in Rome to compare it to. Also, in 2004, there were some real issues with general tiredness, lack of linens, and a teeny topolino problem... Anyway, I had a good chat with the owner (from whom I rent directly) and I shall see this year what it is like. And maybe I'll review it. It is pretty basic accomodations, and I don't want to lead SlowTrav-ers down the garden path. Nor do I want to be at all unfair to my very nice landlady. A dilemma. Yrs, Robert
Robert, after reading your first post here I looked up your trip reports and old posts about it and got a good idea of the place, although I didn't see any contact info. Lesfaye, you might get an idea that way. I have to say that a "topolino" problem might be just too much for me, even with my tireless budget searching!
Lagatta, I loved Gianicolo when I went for a walk there in Rome and I think that's an area I'd really like to stay in.
I think a general theme is that if the neighborhood has intrinsic interest, then an out-of-centre location can work very well.
Being really close to transport helps too. One visit to London I was in Zone 2, and not close to anything I could walk to, but I was right across the street from a tube stop, and that made everything feel very close by. If I have to walk 10 or 15 minutes to get to the transport that will then take me to the sights, the psychological effect of that isn't so great in terms of enjoyment, even though I will walk miles and miles by the time the day is finished.
The first time I went to Rome I assumed that it would be my only trip so I wanted to be near the Spanish Steps. Just for the romance of it, you see. It was dandy for the orientation aspect. If I got lost (and I did - time and again ) I could just ask for directions to the Steps and everyone knew how to get there. Including people who were as lost as I was.... It was nice and close to everything, but noisy and expensive. That eight days really made a bite in my budget.
You may want to check out the rione Monti if you are in Rome. It is called 'centro' by many but is a neighborhood just outside the centro storico.
I rented a tidy studio apartment for a month in '05 and I will be returning there for three weeks in June of this year. The location is close enough to walk everywhere if you wish, or there are dandy electric busses that meander through the narrow streets. There are two Metro stops in the area as well.
All this aside, if I could afford an apartment in the centro of Rome, I would jump on it. No questions asked. The closer the better when it comes to Rome.
When I stay in the country, it is usually because I want to avoid everything and everyone. This used to be my main way of traveling - seeing only the rural areas, but then I found Rome. Now I just want to wander around there. Go figure!
DMae, I can't seem to open the categories in your site - the homepage loads fine, but I can't open "Rome" or "Apartment" - no doubt browsers allergic to each other (I use Safari).
Would you consider doing it as a trip report? I really need resources in a cheaper budget category than most of those here, but that are clean and safe. (Think Happy's Paris garret for what I can afford).
Posts: 868 | Location: Montréal | Registered: 29 January 2006
Sorry for the long pause in answering your questions - I have been out planting for the past three days!
My web site is up and running again; it should run on Safari quite well as I made the web site on a Mac. The .mac site was non functional for several hours and that may have been the problem
The apartment review on Slow Travel is Review 1990: Ciancaleoni.
Slow Travel Talk 
) I could just ask for directions to the Steps and everyone knew how to get there. Including people who were as lost as I was.... It was nice and close to everything, but noisy and expensive. That eight days really made a bite in my budget.