We are off to Dorset/Devon/Cornwall next spring to hike the west coast trail (or at least part of it!). Has anyone any idea of the least touristy villages, best place to stay close to the ocean, etc? Any tips or hints?

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We haven't been to that part of England since 1988, but it did not seem that touristy except for those towns on the very end of Cornwall. St. Ives?? Beautiful area. I want to hear about the hiking. Are you going to hike a long trail going village to village and spending the night in different places?

Lin,

Have you ever purchased any of the Rough Guide travel books? I have the Rough Guide to Britain, and was browsing through the West Country section, which covers Somerset, Devon and Cornwall. The guide details many of the lesser-known towns and has a specific blurb on the West Coast Path. They say you can order a guide published annually by the South West Coast Path Assn, Penquit, Ermington, Devon PL21 0LU.
Ph # is 0172/896237

The beauty of the Rough Guides is that they are geared for the young, budget-minded traveller and the often give good hiking and camping information.

That said, one of my favorite small towns on the west coast is Tintagel . The castle here was rumored to belong to Uther Pendragon, father of King Arthur. And of course, Merlin's Cave is here as well. Though there are some hokey things for tourists, the views from the cliffs are amazing. I have been to Tintagel twice, both times in July, and it was never so crowded as Clovelly or Bath.

You did not say you were going as far north as Somerset, but if you reconsider, my absolute favorite town that I have found thus far is Lynmouth , which lies within the Exmoor Natl Park. My husband and I spent a bit of time here on our honeymoon. We drove in from Glastonbury, and I shall never forget the first glimpse of the bay as we descended. At the time, there were full, double rainbows extending from land to see - what an amazing sight! The Rough Guide says

quote:

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Lynmouth lies at the confluence and estuary of the East and West Lyn Rivers, in a spot described by Gainsborough as 'the most delightful place for a landscape painter this country can boast.'

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You can explore the walks and waterfalls of the nearby Glen Lyn Gorge.

I envy you! Good luck on your search.

Thanks for the info. I don't know if you recall Pauline, but I was the "Lin" who was given the "anywhere in the world you want to go for your 50th" birthday gift. I have decided to go "home" to England. I come from there and have not been back in 10 years. We are pretty lucky in that we can travel wherever we want (within reason of course) and I was putting myself under too much pressure to go somewhere touted to be "the best". I want to go home and I want Michael to see the England I know, not the England he remembers from the early 70's!! Anyway - we will go to London for a week (rent a place through Bond Vacation) and then we will rent a cottage in Devon, Cornwall or Dorset for a week or two and use it as a base and then hike from there along the west coast trail. St. Ives was pretty touristy when I lived there so I'd just like to get some ideas as to where is relatively untouched and quiet with a great sea view. Any tips from anyone are welcome.

Of course I remember Lin - but I didn't realize you had chosen England. Brilliant choice!! I love traveling in England and I hope we go there next year. It really is a toss up for me which I prefer: Italy, England, Switzerland. And probably France and Spain, but I haven't been to either recently.

I too feel like we should do more "adventurous" traveling - I have a friend who just went to China. But when it comes down to planning the next trip, there are so many places that I want to see in Europe (even in Italy), that I just keep going back.

Choosing the place to travel involves understanding yourself and Knowing how you like to spend time and what you really want to do. In the end it is you who is doing the trip - you must pick what works for you - not something that "sounds good" when telling friends.

I turn 50 in three years - maybe I would do well to do a trip to England to celebrate too!