Shhhhh. I've taken advantage of a blip in airfares last week, and have booked a surprise trip to London for four days in January to celebrate my husband's 50th birthday. Neither of us have ever been. Shameful, I know. He has cousins there (his father and siblings spent time in England after leaving Germany in the Kindertransport), so it's way past time to cross the Pond.
We'll be visiting museums, (British Museum, Victoria and Albert) seeing a show, and getting to just a few of the historical sites. I'd also like to do as much walking through neighborhoods as we can, weather allowing. So--what areas would you suggest, particularly for post-museum breaks of fresh air, winter strolling, a drink, window-shopping, and ending with dinner? Areas close by or Underground-accessable from those museums, Southwark sites, or our Bayswater hotel would be great. Restaurant recommendations also appreciated, especially Indian/Pakistani, Turkish, other ethnic cuisines.
With only four days in London, I would pick your museums carefully, since most of them are vast. I know others will rush in to disagree howlingly, but I think the V&A and the Tate Modern are among the most overrated museums going, although it is worth walking into Tate Modern to see the grand public space of the ground floor.
On the other hand, the British Museum is a masterpiece of architecture and is home to some of the most important artifacts in the world. I believe the National Portrait Gallery to be unique, and perhaps the most enjoyable way to contemplate British history available. If painting is important to you, the National Gallery and Tate Britain have important offerings.
But that wasn't your question!
I think Taz has good (Turkish) food at reasonable prices. They have more than one location around London. I think the prettiest London neighborhoods are the villages that cluster around Hampstead Heath but they are far from the center and you'd have to be pretty motivated to go. (If you are, I'd recommend taking in Kenwood House while you are in the vicinity or, at a minimum, Keats's house.)
In lieu of that, i think wandering the streets around the British museum gives a nice feel for the historic London of our imaginations. The streetscape of Marylebone is very charming and compact, and might best fit your bill for lovely windowshopping, atmosphere, fine eats, etc.
My favorite street in London is Cecil Court, right off Trafalgar, which is devoted to the sale of used books. In fact, if you like book hunting, that whole area of London, around Trafalgar and Leicester Square is fantastic for used bookshops.
Also, weather permitting, I would opt for a stroll through St James or another of the great public spaces of London. And remember that if its really, really cold, getting yourself to Kew Gardens and strolling through the toasty warm Victorian greenhouses, with their fantastic glass and ironwork, can be a rewarding way to spend your time.
I agree about the British Museum. We found ourselves with ONE DAY in London this past June because of the vagaries of airline scheduling. We had been there several times before, though not recently. So what do you do with one day? We considered the Tate Modern since it had not been fully open the last time we were in the city, but we weren't enthralled by the exhibits featured at the time. So we opted for the British Museum, and we weren't sorry; in fact, we didn't have nearly enough time. I also agree about the neighborhood around the museum.
If the weather isn't too cold, what about a boat trip along the Thames? We finally got around to doing that on our last previous stay in London, and we really enjoyed it -- from Westminster to Greenwich, stop for some ale at a pub along the river, and back again. (Of course, that was in June.)
Originally posted by Amy: Shhhhh. I've taken advantage of a blip in airfares last week, and have booked a surprise trip to London
This is exactly what I just did! The fares from LA to London on BA were just too good to pass up.
And it's a surprise for my husband too. His birthday is Dec. 27, so he often gets the dreaded "this is your Christmas/Hanukkah Birthday gift" combo. In this case though, I think he will be more than happy.
I will be watching your thread here for helpful hints too. Our trip is over Valentine's Day for 7 nights.
If you're here at the weekend it's great to walk through the City of London then because the streets are deserted. All the shops are closed too but some aren't (Fleet Street, Liverpool Street/Moorgate area) and so you can find eateries there. Also at the weekend try The Temple (and surrounding area) also deserted at weekends, it's one of the old Inns of Court (where legal firms are based) and is an atmospheric treat, full of Dickensian corners. And not far from the more western parts of town, which are always undeserted!
I like strolling along the Thames on opposite bank to Tower of London (can never remember what to call it!) ending up at Butlers Wharf for coffee or a meal.
Posts: 459 | Location: Adelaide, South Australia | Registered: 08 May 2005
I've always loved wandering around the smaller streets and mews that are sort of south of Brompton Road and west of Sloane Street....so around Egerton Gardens, Lennox Gardens, Cadogan Square, Cadogan Gardens, etc. I just love looking at all the townhouses and most of them are in great condition in this area with lovely detailing. Also nice window browsing on Walton Street. It's a nice area because it is near things that tourists would want to see so it doesn't take you far out of your way but still puts you on some quiet streets.
Not a residential neighborhood but an area I like...walking in and around the 4 Inns of Court.
Also Kew. You can take the District line out to Kew and walk have a nice walk around and visit the botanical gardens as well.
London Walks does some great neighborhood walking tours that might be of interest to you or inspiration for areas to visit:
Originally posted by Chris B: I like strolling along the Thames on opposite bank to Tower of London (can never remember what to call it!) ending up at Butlers Wharf for coffee or a meal.
Sarf Bank mate!
Posts: 252 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 08 August 2005
Have you thought of going to Convent Garden? At this time of the year it shouldn't be too busy although it will probably be gearing up to the christmas market. If you go on a Sunday it will have the unusual market stalls. I love going up there to look around. Plenty of quirky shops and good restaurants and lots to look at. Very central and easy to get around on the tube.
Posts: 15 | Location: Rye | Registered: 23 November 2007
Originally posted by *Narcissa*: London Walks does some great neighborhood walking tours that might be of interest to you or inspiration for areas to visit:
London walks is one of the best deals in town. We have taken several of their walks over the years and all have been informative and entertaining. I have already printed out their winter schedule to plan our February "walks".
I often tout the Spitalfields area, for architecture, atmosphere, food, shopping, wandering, Dennis Severs House etc. Some parts are shiny and tourist perfect, some parts are not. As always, it depends what you like.
It's a particularly good answer to "What should I do on Sunday?"
In your case, it might have the small added attraction that there is a statue outside Liverpool Street Station commemorating the Kindertransport. Many children passed through the station during the 1930s, apparently. Might be appropriate to pause for a moment in your travels and think of those who came that way.
Amy you've had loads of good suggestions. I was thinking of your post as I wandered through the Spitalfields area yesterday. But really there are so many great places to explore and you aren't going to have enough time in 4 days. But if you do go to the Liverpool Street/Spitalfields area, on top of the Dennis Severs House and Christ Church Spitalfields you might find this interesting (although you will be lucky if it's open when you are here).
Beebee
Posts: 1954 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 09 September 2002
What fabulous suggestions! Many thanks to you all.
Clearly, we're going to need to come back to London--the more I read, the more gems there are to discover.
One more thing to add to our list--we've learned that the few letters Larry's grandparents were able to send to their children before they were sent to the camps are in the collection of the Weiner Library. Larry has translations, but would like to see the originals.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Amy,
London's Jewish Museum is interesting also, though a bit farther from the center, near Regent's Park. We were there, I believe, in 1994. Oops! I just saw that it is closed at present while a new museum is being built.
Going to the parks is a must! I am a big fan of St. James Park. Its a good locations near Buckingham Palace for a little sight seeing. Oxford St. and Regent St. are great places to go window shopping. If youre looking into a West End show anything is really good. I recommend Wicked, Billy Elliot or Mamma Mia. Check out lastminute.com for some good deals on shows and restaurant pairings if you wanted. Covent Garden is also a great place to walk around. There are lots of restaurants there to check out! You will really have a great time! Enjoy it see as much as you can!
Posts: 3 | Location: HKSAR | Registered: 27 June 2007
Coming to this thread late, Amy, but I too LOVE the British Museum and had two visits there during my brief winter visit a few years ago. Not sure if you have booked your hotel yet, but that's a nice neighborhood.
I did go to the new Tate but did not enjoy it much at all (didn't seem logical to have the artworks arranged "thematically").
Have a wonderful trip!
Just remembered: I did a couple of the London Walks, which were fun and (at least in 2002) not that expensive. I recall doing the Oscar Wilde walk, and I think maybe Mayfair (some pretty fancy Mews). I also did an evening pub crawl which was not so great.
weather permitting, Primose hill is an excellent place for a stoll and the views across the city are wonderful. In the village there are plenty of good restaurants and pubs to work up an appetite for.
There are so many wonderful restaurants in London now. The subcontinent food (a friend insists there is no such one thing as Indian)is far superior than anything I ever ate in the States. Try Amaya for a lovely, upscale and delicious meal - or Tamarind or Benares. I also love The Cinnamon Club which has an unusual setting and is what I'd call (my American roots showing) 'upscale, gourmet' Indian. Do not eat at Brick Lane - I find it tacky and you can do better.
Some other 'in' places are St. John's, the Ivy (near theatres), Belgo for mussels and a nice pre-theatre low price menu, Galvin Brothers (Baker St.) for wonderful French bisto food, and do have at least one grand tea. For a fast sandwich, Pret A Manger is great - they are all over London and the Wolseley on Piccadilly does very good meals, including breakfast.
Have a great trip!
Posts: 177 | Location: Surrey, UK | Registered: 28 February 2005
Zuriga, I appreciate the leads on Indian restaurants. I've looked at other forums, and largely learned about where to *not* eat. My husband has been to India, and would love to find some places that make the vegetarian dishes he's eaten in the south. Sadly, given the exchange rate, price is a factor in where we choose to go.
Time Out give this one in the Rasa chain a "critic's choice" star but as you'll see in the review, they only do lunch (but looks super cheap). If you want South Indian in the evening I can vouch for the Rasa in Stoke Newington but that might not be terribly convenient in a 4 day visit. Rasa was big news when it first opened and the last time I ate there it was still very good, but I can't speak for the other, more central, restaurants in the chain. It's definitely authentic south indian though.
Beebee
Posts: 1954 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 09 September 2002
