Jude and I are hoping to go for our first time to Ireland for a few weeks in November/December 2007 as part of a trip to see our son who is working in Thurles (not too far from Kilkenny) and a Christmas/New Year with my sister in Kent.
Jude is also suggesting that first we fly to Paris for a week, and then probably on to Dublin.
The days will be short and cold for us subtropical people so we will probably be spending quite a bit of time at indoor places e.g Dublin Museum. I can also see us on windswept moors and coastal headlands, retreating to a car for a thermos of hot tea or soup.
Does anyone have any suggestions for what to do in Ireland at this time of year and for economical places to stay with self-catering and places to visit? I would be happy to stay at one place for most of the time and use the concentric circles thing.
John "There are two types of problems: those that solve themselves, and those which you can do nothing about" Isabel Allende's grandmother
Posts: 1572 | Location: Mullumbimby, NSW, Australia | Registered: 26 March 2003
It sounds like a great trip unfortunately I can't help with any detail as wehave only made fleeting visits to Ireland and not to the areas you mention. We are hoping to visit ourselves in August for a week and have been in contact with Rob Rankin of Vagabond tours. He has been very helpful and we will probasbly take one of his 4x4 trips. I have also been researching accom and Heaton's Guesthouse is a name which keeps cropping up so I will be investigating that too.
Good luck
Posts: 1222 | Location: UK | Registered: 12 June 2005
Gwen, I can also recommend Heaton's Guesthouse in Dingle. Comfortable rooms, nice views of the bay (if you get the rooms with the views; be sure to ask when you reserve!), great breakfast, lovely people. We've only stayed there twice, for a couple of nights each time, but it's high on our "must go back to" list.
John - Unfortunately, we've usually been roaming around when in Ireland, so I have no recommendations for a self-catering place to settle in for a week or two. And the latest we've ever been is early November (and that only for music festivals, where no "outdoor sightseeing" time was intended).
As you noted, the daylight hours will certainly limit you, so you're best to plan indoor activities. Not much point in daytripping to Powerscourt gardens, for example! Also, some of the less-visited potential daytrip sights may be closed at that time of year. But there's always the big Avoca shop outside Dublin, and inside the city, Dublin Castle, Trinity College, national museum (amazing collection of gold torcs, among other things), Christchurch, Guiness visitor's centre (great views of the city from the top-floor "tasting" area), and St. Patrick's, just to get you started. Don't miss Leo Burdock's if you like fish and chips. And I don't imagine that Newgrange will be closed , though I think you have to queue for years to visit on the winter solstice.
We've stayed in Ireland a couple of times (both times in June), and I can just picture the pubs in the winter - cozy and full of atmosphere. I can also imagine that it will be really damp and chilly, and that walking around will be less fun because of it - though still very beautiful and green. I'd go in a minute. We've rented through Shamrock Cottages, as has my brother. They have a good website if you want to check it out. One thing to keep in mind is that the roads in many scenic parts of the country are very narrow. Driving on them takes longer than you can imagine. Keep that in mind when planning and when choosing your base. Linda
Posts: 664 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
We were in southwest and west Ireland last October, into the first week of November. Take your long johns, warm hat & mittens, and have wonderful time! Dingle was my favorite place of the whole trip; the people are friendly, and although we were there just three days, we saw most of that end of the peninsula. We stayed at Killfountain Farm--a B&B farm stay--let me know if you can't find their contact information. Friendlier people you will not find anywhere! I'm an animal person, and the husband and son let me help with the milking, and were so kind in answering my numerous questions. It was a wonderful place, and I dream of going back someday.
We don't need to sort out the time in England yet as we are at my sister's in Sevenoajs for Christmas to New Year.
We are flying in and out of Dublin and wondered whether it would be better (cheaper) to hire a car in Ireland for the whole time and take a ferry to England and back, or to fly to England and pick up another car there.
Any suggestions will be welcome.
John "There are two types of problems: those that solve themselves, and those which you can do nothing about" Isabel Allende's grandmother
Posts: 1572 | Location: Mullumbimby, NSW, Australia | Registered: 26 March 2003
Hey John, I've been to Ireland twice, once in Nov/Dec and once in Jan/Feb - loved it both times! The first pic is of Waterford pier - public parking further down the frontage road; second pic is the Granville Hotel's carvery lunch. There are 5 or 6 dining rooms, each w/it's own roaring fireplace - there was (carved, of course) roast turkey, roast beef or a lovely ham, lots of perfectly cooked veggies, potatoes several ways - delish! And sitting in front of the fireplace really warmed up the tootsies. If you do rent a car, you'll like traveling this time of year as we never had parking problems (went to Cork, Kilkenny & Mitchelstown as well). Third pic is of Reginald's Tower - quite old and interesting - stairway is steep & small, but worth the climb to top. You and your family will love it - great people, good food and roundabouts instead of freeway exits!
Make sure you furnish yourself with a good guidebook (I love my Rough Guide to Ireland) and always ring ahead, as opening times in autumn and winter are very curtailed.
In Killarney Ross Castle will probably be closed (pity, I was on its last tour for the season in mid-November last year, and it was fascinating) but Muckross House should be open for visitors. Plus just walking around the national park is very pretty, even in the rain.
I thought Galway in November was horrendous. It was soooo windy to the point that you couldn't even walk around outside. But I challenge you to eat a full Irish breakfast at Finnegans on Market Street. I still dream of them.
Dublin is great fun, even in the depths of winter. Do the Traditional Irish Music Pubcrawl. It's not a pissup, and it attracts a really diverse crowd, and it's lots of fun. The Literary Pubcrawl is not bad either. During the day my top picks are Kilmainham Gaol, the Chester Beatty Library, the Georgian House (I love all things Georgian), Dublin Castle, Book of Kells and the Guinness Storehouse. That should be a pretty jam packed four days.
Originally posted by JohnFromAus: We are flying in and out of Dublin and wondered whether it would be better (cheaper) to hire a car in Ireland for the whole time and take a ferry to England and back, or to fly to England and pick up another car there.
John, if you can get one of the cheap RyanAir or EasyJet fares from Ireland to England, my guess is that it would be less expensive to do that, rather than keep your Irish rental car and take the ferry.
You'll also want to consider the additional time/miles required to ferry/drive from Ireland to England, versus to fly. Also, I don't know if you rely on a credit card's liability program to avoid paying some of the insurance cover on rental cars, but please be aware that a lot of cards do NOT pick up the additional damage coverage for Ireland (Visa, for example, at least in the US). So it's possible an English rental car may be cheaper than an Irish one, particularly if you won't need one for part or all of the time you are spending with family.
Sounds like you've got a nice itinerary mapped out. Enjoy!
Yes, these are all pictures in Waterford - one of the pier which you linked, one of the Granville Hotel carvery lunch dining room and one of Reginald's Tower, an ancient building not far from the Hotel. I chose these out of the hundreds of Ireland pictures I took because I'm sure the Granville Hotel and Reginald's Tower will be open when you're there. I have others - Kilkenny Castle was open and it was a great tour - but not sure what ares you will travel in so didn't want to post irrelevant pics.
BTW the weather was very good both trips - cold, of course, but very little rain. I use silk long underwear to keep warm - easy to wash and not bulky to wear or pack. Can't imagine you and your family not having a 'grand' time - both my husband and I found driving there easy compared with our US driving experiences. I'll take roundabouts any day over freeway exits!
After borrowing The Rough Guide, Lonely Planet, and Eyewitness guides to Ireland from the Library we have bought a copy of the Lonely Planet Guide.
We have booked RyanAir for our legs between Dublin and London. It is surprising how much the taxes and luggage costs add to a 1 Euro flight.
I am reading Burnt Barley by the the New Zealander Peta Mathias in preparation for the holiday. I had not heard of her but it appears she is well known in New Zealand, and known in Ireland.
We have booked accomodation through Hostelworld. They give ratings based on peoples's experiences, and you can read the visitors' review comments.
I will write a detailed itinerary this week.
I had not planned to visit northern Ireland, but an old college friend is a doctor in Belfast. So I may incorporate a visit there.
John "There are two types of problems: those that solve themselves, and those which you can do nothing about" Isabel Allende's grandmother
Posts: 1572 | Location: Mullumbimby, NSW, Australia | Registered: 26 March 2003
Nearly every single person who I have told we are spending January and February in England has warned me about the weather - as if I don't know that it is winter and will be cold and wet. Are you getting this too?
My current tactic is to say "The weather should be good because they have their summer when we have our winter, don't they?" But that would not work for you!!
We were in Connemara in September about 15 years ago and it was cold and wet then - but we had a wonderful time.
Cold and wet is normal. I grew up there and we have both lived there.
I am looking forward to hot spuds and guiness steak pies in a warm hotel after stinging cold rain.
The short days are more the worry. Probably not light until 8:30 and getting dark by 3:30 pm. We need to arrange tours of castles and breweries for the late afternoon, grab quick lunches, maybe a packed lunch in our car, and longer lingering dinners.
Christmas in Australia is so hot you can hardlky eat anything. I am hoping for a boyhood big Christmas dinner which will burn off quickly in the cold.
John "There are two types of problems: those that solve themselves, and those which you can do nothing about" Isabel Allende's grandmother
Posts: 1572 | Location: Mullumbimby, NSW, Australia | Registered: 26 March 2003
Originally posted by JohnFromAus: I had not planned to visit northern Ireland, but an old college friend is a doctor in Belfast. So I may incorporate a visit there.
I haven't travelled much in Ireland but a year or two ago we did go to Belfast and met up with some Canadian friends who had been travelling around the whole island. Although they enjoyed their time in Eire, they did say that owing to the booming irish economy there was redevelopment everywhere to an extent they found worrying. By contrast, they said that northern ireland felt a bit more untouched. And I can vouch for having found Belfast well worth a visit. Try to go before they get rid of the wall murals. They are quite disturbing and will probably disappear soon.
Beebee
Posts: 1951 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 09 September 2002
Son Amar is a lovely B&B near Galway City. Our room overlooked Connemara Bay (and sheep). Down the road was a very nice hotel where we had drinks (warm) one rainy day. We had windy, cold weather in late April, so what the heck... go visit all this beauty when you can.
Posts: 177 | Location: Surrey, UK | Registered: 28 February 2005
I'm a Dubliner (Although currently working in the UK, so we spend some time travelling between both countries). I also write a guide to Dublin and Ireland (please see my signature). Everyone so far has given you great advice and some more suggestions:
Dublin is a nightmare to drive - the city is converting to a car-free zone and parking is expensive. The ring motorway (M50) around which you will have to drive to leave Dublin is being extended, so gridlock, difficult conditions caused by temporary lanes and the like are all standard. I would not suggest that you collect the car on arrival, not least since you will probably be jetlagged. Use public transport or hire a taxi to your accommoation. The luxury coach/pullman bus is only €7 euro single into the city centre. If you stay somewhere near the DART or Luas rail lines, it makes it easy to travel around and soak up the atmosphere!
It does not get extremely cold in Ireland (not that many days below freezing in winter, unlike the UK), and you already realize that daylight will be in short supply. Get a transport rover ticket and use the DART to see some of Dublin's impressive coastline north and south of the city. Malahide is well worth a visit - the castle is lovely and there is a fascinating model rail museum beside it. The harbour is lovely and there is a reasonable choice of places in which to eat. The DART also takes you south to Brey and Greystones, worth the trip to the latter to see the sea cliffs and impressive scenery. I won't go on - there is plenty more in my website. In Dublin city I would add a visit to the National Gallery (Merrion St) and the Hugh Lane Gallery -- the latter if you like modern art. The tourist office in St Andrew's Street will have a lot of information.
A visit to Belfast would also be excellent - there is a lot to see and you will receive a very warm welcome (don't mention religion and politics if you want to keep your irish friends!). The city hall and waterside areas are very impressive and easily reachable. Again, there is a good train service from Dublin to Belfast. Except for petrol (the Republic has one of the cheapest fuel prices in Europe at the moment), you will find most things somewhat cheaper than the Republic.
In short I would stay in Dublin city for the few days and then base yourself somewhere in the country. Be warned that it takes a lot of time to drive between rural locations in Ireland due to the topography and size of the road, even the main 'N' roads that are not motorway take time. We tend to stay with relatives or use B&Bs (I can give you recommendations if you ask), so can't help with self-catering. If I had to pick one B&B central to several locations, it would be this: Barker House
We had a wonderful stay there in 2005 and toured Counties Limerick, Clare and Kerry from there.
I know you will have a great time and I look forward to a report here when you return.
We did not drive in Dublin, but did drive the rest of the country. We met a few traffic Jams in some cities, but overall we enjoyed our driving.
December is a great time to visit Ireland in many ways. Hardly any tourists. The car parks for sights and tourist places had few cars or none.
A car was also great to pick up some local flavour on RTE 1 or music on RTELyric. Discussions of current news events (What has Bertie Ahern been doing?) and how Santy (sic) is coming for Christmas. Though I did get a bit tired of American Christmas songs which seemed to dominate the Irish Music.
Best joke I heard was reported on the radio from an interview witha centenarian "What has been the biggest change in your lifetime?" "Well, when I was young the nuns were cooped up and the chickens were free range. Now the nuns are free rabge and the chickens are cooped."
John "There are two types of problems: those that solve themselves, and those which you can do nothing about" Isabel Allende's grandmother
Posts: 1572 | Location: Mullumbimby, NSW, Australia | Registered: 26 March 2003
Good luck
, though I think you have to queue for years to visit on the winter solstice.
