Okay, so I am planning a 3-4 week trip to Portugal this summer with my boyfriend. There is one fixed week where we will be in Porto. That is the 7-13th of August (a Sunday through Sunday). The 7th is a big family food day all day--- and the 12th is my best friend's wedding, which I am in... IT IS SET IN STONE.

We plan to spend a few days that week (re)-discovering Porto (I was there 11 years ago for a month but don't remember it very well---wasn't too savvy at age 16). I think we will also spend a few days daytripping to towns north/east of Porto in the Douro region: Amarante, Guimares, Braga, Aveiro, Vila Real. So that's a week.

I also kind of planned a week near Obidos (in the Ribatejo/Estremadura area along the coast just 1 hour north of Lisbon) because there are loads of important towns/sites you can see from there: Nazare, Tomar, Santarem, Fatima, Batalha, Cascais/Estoril/Sintra... etc..

I also planned a week near Evora and the border to Extremadura in Spain (south/east Portugal). We found this really charming little house in a cork farm--it's perfect... there are many towns there, too, that seem worth visiting and I can go visit a friend of mine in Spain (Merida).

But my problem is... with flying into Lisbon and out of there... (we would spend a couple of days there...) that's 3.5 weeks already.

And I really feel like I can't go to Portugal in summer and not get to the Algarve... I'm not huge on beaches for the "lying in the sun" all day kind of thing, but the coast seems a necessity to me because of
1. the romance factor
2. the sheer beauty--especially the west side beyond Albufeira to the Atlantic
3. the good seafood... (I so miss grilled sardines, chocos... all that fresh Mediterranean/Atlantic goodness)

So my indecison is.. should I try to attach a few days to do a 'quick' tour of the Algarve or should I try to spend a week there and then cut down on some other location???

Or should I just skip it all together?

Should I try to get a flight into Lisbon and out of Faro to just make it easier...?

I would just add a week and do it... but hey, I'm a student (= I really shouldn't be spending so much of the little money I have on trips in peak season)... and my boyfriend has to get back to work, so more than 4 weeks is probably not OK.

I guess I want to know if the Algarve is really unmissable and if so, what I might cut down on.... Again, Porto is set... and the cork house in the eastern part just seems so perfect and relaxing... I was thinkg to spend less time in the area around Obidos... but that seems like the most culturally dense area in terms of intersting things to visit...

Has anyone seen the Algarve? Or these other areas? I have been to the Algarve there twice-- But I was young! I was 18 and we went on daytrips from the town in Huelva that I lived in... I saw some great beaches, both flat/perfect/resorty type and wild cliff beaches... but I am very curious about Albufeira, Lagos... Silves... hmm.

Please help!!

Hello Sarah:

We just returned from Portugal (and Spain)and would recommend you keep your itinerary for the other parts Portugal.

To my mind it is not worth considering cutting short time in those areas to experience the Algarve.

That being said, we did enjoy Tavira in the East and the extreme west of the Algarve - Cape Saint Vincent, Sagres, and up the west coast a bit. If you are planning on staying and have a car you may wish to consider Salema as a base.

Although the Praia da Rocha at Portimao is beautful I expect that in the summer it may look like a colony of seals competing for space on an small ice flow!

Please take into account that we are retired and enjoy walks, history and nature as opposed to party spots. As Shaw wrote, "Do not do (or in this case, recommend)unto others as you would have them do unto you, your tastes may differ."

Have a great trip.
Dennis

Hi Dennis,

Thank you for your opinion. It's precisely what I want to hear (other people's thoughts). I would really love to hear more about where you went, what you liked, what you wished you had done more of...

It's now definite that we will do 1 week from Vila Novade Gaia/Porto ( couple days of the city + lot's of daytripping).

I am also quite certain that we will do the week near Evora.

Now my thought is, where to stay for another week? I was trying to get a place near Tomar or Obidos. I found possibilities for Obidos/coastal area... also down near Cascais/Sintra and Setubal, just south of Lisbon.

What do you think we should do for a third week, possibly 1.5 weeks given the duor/evora plans?

Thanks! (Not too many people on Slow Trav have explored Portugal much, so it's hard to get as much good advice as with Italy, for example).

Oh, Dennis, I forgot one thing. I also wanted to say that I am a culture person above all else, too--I like history, architecture, urban layouts and quaint rural settings--I love landscapes that are dotted with (harmonious) development (not like what you tend to get in the states). I don't want to be where the party is... That's no "party" for me! But if the towns are worth it, or the views are unrivalled, I will put up with a crowd (can you say Positano in late July?<----that was me two years ago) to get my opportunity to get a lasting memory/great photo... etc..

So I think I am on your wavelength in terms of what I want to experience. I like seeing the beauty of a culture in the context (as much as possible) of its place/time/unique history.

That was my wondering about the Algarve? Do you see much of that, or just modern resorts that have crowded out the more traditional development or butchered the landscape?

Hello again Sarah:
If you have time you may wish to read my trip report (#815) from a walk 2 years ago from Porto to Santiago. There's also a photo essay that goes with it. It is under Spain.

As for the Algarve:
The beaches are wonderful -and deserted- in March. Only crazy Canadians and hearty Germans seem to brave the wind and weather! I expect a totally different scene in the summer. We would not return to any of the Algarve between Lagos and Faro.
Although the centre of Tavira was torn up when we visited, it should be repaired by summer. The city hall offers a great walking tour for only 2 Euros and affords entrance to churches that are otherwise locked. You'll be able to satisfy your craving for fresh fish and seafood at any number of places along the river. It is about 3 to 5 Kms to the ocean from the town centre.
The extreme west and "around the corner" and up to Vila Nova de Milfontes provides some relatively deserted beaches.
The Algarve did not escape the ravages of the 1755 earthquake and subsequent tsunami so it is rare to find architecture prior to that on the coast.

Personal likes:

Because of the friendliness of the people and their openess, Ponte de Lima holds a special place for us. We revisited it and found it the same. It is small and although there is not a particular monument that fits into the "wow" category (maybe the bridge) there are many nice nooks and crannies to explore. The gardens across the bridge are wonderful.

Braga with its Cathedral and Bom Jesus church nearby is a nice city. In Guimaries (the"birthplace of Portugal") the Dukes of Braganca palace is worth a visit. All are easily reached by commuter train from Porto for less than Eu5 a ticket.

Perhaps the surprise highlight of our trip was Tomar. We are interested in Gothic and Manueline architecture and Templar history. We were not prepared for the feast the Convento do Cristo provided in both regards. The town itself is compact and its main square very open.

In central Portugal Coimbra is a lively university town that we liked. Just outside it is the roman town of Conimbriga. Of all the Roman ruins in Portugal we liked this the best. The floor mosaics on display are great.

I ramble, but one final thought. In Lisbon you might want to visit the Oceanario. It's a delightfully set up aquarium. The entrance price is steep - Eu10.50 but good value for what's inside.

One further tip: in some of the smaller towns, free internet can be had at the public library and at a service called Espacio Internet. Just ask for locations at the turismo.

Hope this is of some help. If you have any specific questions please feel free to email me at switzd@telusplanet.net

Dennis

Hi Dennis,

Thank you again for your tips. It seems like you have seen a lot of the places I am looking into.

I actually did read your trip report! It was great. I was really fascinated by your route and method of transportation... and the details of your trip, of course. You did a fantastic job of getting the reader right in the scene with you...

I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed Tomar, Braga, Conimbriga and Guimares--After my reading... they were definite on our itinerary. I am going to put Ponte de Lima on the map for us and try to work it in. ((I don't need 'wow', so that's fine... I think once you see many places of a similar type, it's no longer about being wowed, but about appreciating nuances and the unique character of each place.))

At this point I am thinking about maybe spending five days or so on the west coast of the Algarve--quieter, but close enough for those visits of a couple of places I want to see... But I might just skip that whole region and focus more on the rest of Portugal and maybe crossing the border a bit more into Spain.

I will keep working on my villa searches and I probably will email you at some point. I try to keep things on the message board only because I know that way I can find it again and other people who come after me can benefit.

Thank you, thank you.

Hello again;
So perhaps some time in Spain?!
From Evora, it is just a hop and a mini-skip to Extremadura in Spain. In August it will be hot as Hades. We really enjoyed our time there. Zafra in the south; Merida with its ruins, Caceres and the walled old town, and farther afield Trujillo and Guadaloupe, the land of the Conquistadores. You can hunt for dolmens (and perhaps have greater success than we did in finding them!) around Valencia de Alcantara.

You may even want to consider remaining around the border area and visiting the Portuguese towns of Marvao, Estremoz and and Monsaraz.

For a cooler option ,one can head north from Porto to Galicia.

Dennis

Hi Dennis,

Yes, I am thinking about putting more 'border' Spain on the trip. As for Extremadura, I have been to Merida and Caceres. I really want to go to Plasencia, Trujillo, Olivenza and Guadalupe. My friend (an ex-boyfriend!) lives in Almendralejo (10 km south of Merida) and I am pretty sure we can stay with him (his family actually owns some hotels there)... I am thinking about maybe going for a few days over there after we finish up in Portugal--- ((I am pretty sure we will go to those Portuguese towns because they are closest to the villa we will be staying in! It's about 35 km east of Evora, near Redondo.))

Now as for Galicia, I am very curious about it. When I first knew that we would be in Porto this summer, my original plan was to then just go to Northern Spain because I had never had the chance. I was thinking Porto and then Galicia, through the Basque Country for about 3-4 weeks... I lived in Andalusia in three cheunks over a few years, and save Barcelona, never made it north of Madrid or Toledo. While in Andalusia, though, I lived with two men (a father and then a grandpa) who were gallegos. They were perhaps my two favorite 'adult' figures in all my different living arrangements. I've seen lots of films and heard stories from them about the countryside and history of Galicia... so I would love to go...

Now my question is, Dennis, if you were to spend a 1-1.5 weeks in Galicia, what would be your choice of base? And would you choose that over a similar amount of time in Lisbon and the environs (Estremadura/Ribatejo)?

I actually searched for villas up there (Galicia) about two weeks ago (before I started concentrating solely on Portugal) and they were scarce! Portugal seems to have more choice (and better prices, too)... So I really am leaning on more Portugal... not including Galicia... (but like I said I want to go there!!!!!!))

Endless possibilities!!! Arrgh!

--------SIDE NOTE: When I planned my month in Italy (to follow 3 weeks in CR, AUSTRIA and BAVARIA) two years ago, I think it took me two months of working on the locations and accomodations (villas) everyday! I hope that I'm more efficient now... but the complications of deciding and being discriminating are setting in!---------

Hmm... all Portugal and some Extremadura (Spain)???? or
Porto-Duoro region/Galicia/Evora region/Extremadura/Lisbon???

I still can't thank you enough for your input and thought sharing! My current boyfriend has never been to Europe and so he's not as sure of what he wants to see. He's leaving it up to me because I have more experience. And more patience to comb through all the guides, maps, websites... he's pretty easy going so that actually makes it all easier...

Oh what a choice. Think I'll cop out and just give you some of the reasons we like Galicia and let you choose.
1) HISTORY. Santiago is the end point of one of the 3 great pilgrimage routes of medieval times. There are remains of Celto-Iberian and Roman settlements. On a more infamous level Galicia produced families that had dictators on both extremes of the political spectrum (Castro by ancestry and Franco by birth)
2) ARCHITECTURE. The Baroque exterior and the romanesque church with its entrance that it covers in Santiago is worth the price of a plane ticket alone. Since the north escaped Moorish rule there are more Romanesque churches than the south. Cebreiro has one dating from the 900s. Pazos (Manor houses) and their gardens are granite masterpieces.
3) FOOD If you like seafood then this is the place. Second only to Basque cooking. The wines of the Riberia and Rias Baixas are good value.
4) PEOPLE. We find Galicians a little more reseved than those for the south of Spain but they are very proud of their distinctive Galician culture. If you go, the Galician tourism folks provide a list of fiestas and fairs. These celebrations are not to be missed. Their Celtic heritage expresses itself in their music and is highlighted by the gaita (bagpipes) and borran-like drum.
5) BEACHES and coastline. Wild with less frequented beaches than the south. But we have noticed that there appear to be more tourists now than when we first visited.
6) WALKING TRAILS. Very peaceful well-watered, green fields and forests.

Having said all that, I suggest that you might want to save Northern Spain (Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria, and Pais Vasco) for a trip all its own. Given your present (and fixed)itinerary I think it would be best to concentrate on Portugal - and a little Spain in Extremadura!You'll have enough to do with extra time in the border area and Lisbon.

However, if you are still intent on Galicia, and assuming you have a car, you might want to consider looking around Cambados in the Ria Baixas or Finisterra for coastal experiences or something in the Canon de Sil region in the interior. This will put you in day trip sriking distance of most sights. I would avoid Vigo and area.

The tour galicia website offers a lot of information http://www.turgalicia.es/recomendacions/recomend.asp?cidi=i
The Galician TV network has webcams that give an idea of some of the sights. http://www.crtvg.es/ingles/camweb/priportadaeleccion.htm . Their other sections are quite good too.

Adeus
Dennis