My husband and daughter are lobbying to spend a week or so in Croatia at the end of our European trip this summer. Although I've read enthusiastic posts, trip reports and reviews on Slow Travel, Croatia hasn't been near the top of my list of places to go. I don't really feel drawn to Eastern Europe. (I'd been dreaming about a leisurely week in the Swiss Alps...)
Can anyone help me get more excited about spending time in Croatia? If you had a week or ten days in late July, where would you spend your time?
And then there are practical details. We would probably be coming from Tuscany... how should we get to Croatia? Would we need a car-- and could we use the same car we had in Italy? And how would we get back from Croatia to the USA?
Well, with all the fabulous places to go in this world, it would be silly to go to a place you're not excited about!
I've done my best on this with my trip report, with its information and its reflections, which you've probably seen. We were there for 2 1/2 weeks, but we were only in Dalmatia, and only on the coast - I'm not a Croatia expert by any means.
Here's what I would add for you, based on my experiences- For us, it was all about the water, the islands, and the coast. It was simply gorgeous, and so very uncommercial. You would love Hvar. And Dubrovnik was a big draw for us. I would certainly recommend a small (less than 50 passengers) boat trip for you. It is Slow Trav indeed. As I've said, I wouldn't necessarily recommend a boat as downscale as the one we took. There are boats which are a little bigger and a lot more comfortable, and they are still not cruise ships in the usual sense. If you want to know more about that, just ask. They are great because you see a lot at a slow pace, get to swim and enjoy the water, and the people can be fun. Very very casual.
We met up with some old friends in Dubrovnik, and they came from Italy. They had spent some time in Puglia, then they took the ferry from Bari, I think, to Dubrovnik. They had an overnight cabin. They said it was a fine experience. You could certainly do that. They returned to Italy by taking a boat from Rovijn to Venice.
Steve and I flew to Croatia through Rome. We took Croatia Airlines (booked through Alitalia) from Rome to Split, and then flew home from Dubrovnik to Rome. This all worked out just great. That would certainly work for you.
I wouldn't want a car on the coast. I would travel light, by boat or bus. The bus option there is a reliable, cheap, and comfortable one. And if you love being on the water, the ferries, hydrofoils and other options are great.
Here's a tentative plan for you - Take the ferry to Dubrovnik and stay a few days - 2 might be enough. Then explore the islands by boat, either on a 7 day cruise where you can settle into a little cabin, or on your own. Enjoy a day in Split and maybe Trogir on the coast. All this can be done by bus and boat. Fly back from Split.
Another option - After Dubrovnik, take a boat to Hvar (not a direct journey) and just stay there for a week. Ann (Hawaii) loved that. On Hvar you would want a car. You can explore a few other islands by boat from there if you want. Split is 1 1/2 hour by boat from Hvar. The bus from Split to Dubrovnik is 4 hours. Another island which would make a good base for a week is Korcula.
Everyone likes Rovijn so much, and there are of course the inland attractions of Croatia. I'm not sure about public transportation or anything else once you get north of Split. Others will have to fill in about those options.
You've been to Slovenia, right? We haven't but I'd love to go, and I thought it would combine well with a trip to the more northern attractions of Croatia.
Looks like this is mostly practical details and not inspiration! My trip report and photos are offered for that.
Happy travel daydreams to your three- I'm happy to provide fuel for those!
Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Hi Kathy, and Linda too. Kathy, we will help you get excited when we see you in late December in Chattanooga. In the meantime, I'll send you the link to my Croatia album on Picasa, and you can see how beautiful the country is, from both a physical and an architectural standpoint. With 10 days, I would probably choose to stay in Dubrovnik, Hvar, and Trogir/Split. I don't think you'd want to take a car from Italy into Croatia, even if you could (a lot of rental companies don't allow it) -- the cost is usually prohibitive. Linda's plan of flying into Split from Rome, in order to maximize your time in Croatia, and then working your way south to Hvar and Dubrovnik is a good one. There are flights from Dubrovnik to Germany which would be another way to get home. BTW, Croatia is not an eastern European country but a central European country -- there are all sorts of connotations to the wrong label.
Aloha, Ann
Posts: 1606 | Location: Sunset Beach (Haleiwa), Hawaii, USA | Registered: 16 September 2001
Okay, I think I could get really excited about this... I just needed a nudge. I love the idea of a cruise and boat trips, plus staying in one place for a while. Linda, thanks for all this wonderful information and detail (and inspiration too). And Ann, yes, we definitely do want to talk about this when we are together in Chattanooga later this month.
(We haven't been to this part of Europe at all... not Slovenia either.)
Another Croatia fan here, Kathy. (Hi Linda and Ann!) Croatia has been described as having the best of Italy before Italy was "discovered." The country has a medieval beauty and lure, and fewer crowds than some of the more heavy European hitters. The landscape is breathtaking, both along the coast and inland. I echo Linda and Ann's recommendations about places to visit, and I would also consider adding a day trip or overnight to Montenegro. If you are staying in Dubrovnik, it's about an hour and half ride, just south and east, but feels like a whole different world.
I found this website to be extremely helpful in planning.
Can't speak to Croatia, Kathy. But if you want to go one country south, I can't say enough about how fabulous Montenegro is. I can give you the name of the people we rented our apartment from on the Bay of Kotor.
Deborah Horn In a previous life I was an Umbrian sunflower farmer. I want to do a past life regression and stay there. ----------------------------------- www.petsburg.com My blog: Old Shoes - New Trip
Posts: 5590 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: 04 September 2001
Hi Kathy, a promise made--you will not regret time spent in Croatia as it is as lovely as all have said. You want to hike in the Alps--well, you must and will go to Plitvice National Park where you can hike among exquisite beauty quite different from the Alps. Here is one picture of its loveliness.
You mention you have read blogs--did you find mine? Here's a link to the Croatia posts which you may find interesting Croatia One thing about Croatia is that the coast is beautiful but there is another part of the country which still tells of the Balkan War. It is sobering to spend some time exploring inland. I wrote a smattering about it in the entry Beauty and the Beast on the blog.
Oh--yes, you will want a car. We flew from Rome to Zagreb and then back from Dubrovnik to Rome.
Okay... how could I not be excited about Croatia when so many of my most-admired Slow Travelers are raving about it! (Wonderful photo, by the way, Jane.)
Maybe we should just scrap the plan to spend a few weeks in Tuscany and stay longer in Croatia.
Seriously... I've had a major attitude adjustment. This will be a fun project to work on over the holidays.
Kathy, I love Tuscany, but I do think that if you decide to go to Croatia, you should plan to spend at least a couple of weeks there, and longer if possible -- we spent 4 weeks and loved every place we went. We started inland in Zagreb, and I'm glad we did -- as Jane says, the non-coastal areas have a different feeling than the Dalmatian coast, which was so influenced by Venice over the course of several hundred years. In addition to Zagreb and the places I mentioned above (Split/Trogir, Hvar, and Dubrovnik), we also stayed in Plitvice, Rovinj, and Rab, and visited other places in transit. I'd definitely plan a day-trip to Montenegro as Terry suggests -- it's the ONLY tour we've ever done and was well worth a very long day (14 hours, I think, from Dubrovnik). We went in May 2005, and logistically it was the most difficult trip I've ever planned, although I think it might be easier now, with the growing interest in Croatia.
Aloha, Ann
Posts: 1606 | Location: Sunset Beach (Haleiwa), Hawaii, USA | Registered: 16 September 2001
Originally posted by Shannon: Wow, that photo is incredible!
Did you guys find it hard to find places that have wifi?
We didn't. We had it in Zagreb, Trogir and Dubrovnik. We didn't have it our apt. in Hvar but there were plenty of internet places available. I just went to one of those places and connected with my computer.
Kathy, I agree about Croatia! It's one of my favorite countries. We were there in September of 2007 and the people are so happy to host tourists. The country is pristine, and I would love to go back someday.
It's very easy to drive there if you choose to do so, and the roads are new and very well-maintained. We started in Dubrovnik for a few days after a connecting flight thru Rome, took the ferry to Hvar for a few days, then ferried to Trogir for a couple of nights, rented a car and drove to Rovinj for another few days.
Most rental properties required a minimum three night stay at that time, but it could have changed. It was the most difficult trip I have ever planned as there aren't many hotels. Most of the hotels have either been renovated and thus very expensive, or need to be renovated. People I know who have simply arrived and looked for lodging have had very good luck with rooms in private homes, but I like to plan ahead!
From Rovinj we drove to Mestre, outside of Venice, where we caught the train for Florence. It was a crazy drive from Rovinj to Mestre, with sleet (!), and lots of traffic. We were going to take the hydrofoil to Venice, but didn't plan ahead and couldn't get seats.
Here is a link to my Rovinj Web Album on Picasa. I really liked Rovinj as it had a definite Italian flavor.
Gail, I think you laid out a pretty good plan for Kathy. I would just add a little more time on the islands. About hotels- My observations agree with Gail's. During my research I was a bit discouraged by my choices for hotels. But there were appealing rooms (sobas) and rental options in the best locations. That's the way to go in Croatia I think. And Slow Travelers often find those are the best places anyway, as you can learn a lot from your hosts. If you're considering one of those popular very small cruises, another resource is the Katarina Line site. I could give you more info and some recommendations. It's snowing like crazy. Ho ho ho. Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
So nice to see so many nice comments about my country!
Croatian coast is heavily influenced by Venice that ruled here for centuries so don't expect Eastern Europe here! Zagreb is more like that but still well worth the visit and especially the castles in Zagorje many travelers miss but those who see, keep wanting to go back. Plitvice are nice but not high on my list - too crowded in the summer.
Istria - at least 4 days! Medieval hilltop towns, historic heritage and food, food, food and wine! Eat truffles this area is famous for (largest exporter to US)
Dalmatia Zadar is wonderful and worth stopping by just to ear the sea organ! Šibenik is amazing with one of the best preserved Renaissance quarters in Europe! Eat at Pelegrini near the cathedral. Skradin - A must see place! Clse to Krka National Park
Trogir and Split - UNESCO protected and very charming.
Hvar - Beautiful but see Brac, Vis or Korcula if you have time or, charter a sailing boat to visit them all!
Dubrovnik - Incredible! Will say no more but use it as a base for at least 4 nights and visit Mostar in Bosnia and Montenegro on day trips.
Car rental is highly recommended for at least Istria. Very easy to navigate and even if you get lost, you will not care. Most locals speak very good English.
Katarina - Line is nice but maybe oriented more towards the younger crowd so see Lion Queen for cabin charter.
Wow. I wish I'd stumbled upon the Lion Queen website when I was researching small informal Croatian cruises. I would certainly have booked with it. I didn't know about it! We would certainly consider doing this again....so maybe next time. A next time would look like this - another cruise, and then some time north of Split, including Istria with a car. Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Dalmatia, thanks for your very informative post and that fabulous photo. I just sent an e-mail to the Lion Queen cruise people.
(Linda, I sent you a PM about the Katarina cruises several days ago... I wrote them last week, but haven't heard anything back. Maybe it's the off season/holiday time for them. Any suggestions?)
@ Linda - great plan! But make sure you don't miss Šibenik/Skradin and Zadar. I take my clients there on private trips to show them places tourists never go and just keep hearing how surprised they are seeing all the sights and monuments that no one ever talks about!
@ kaydee - Laura of The Lion Queen is great! She inspects all her boats personally and KNOWS all the crew making sure the service is top notch. Katarina Line is great too but I believe they are spreading too much at this time trying to offer hotels, apartments... and I am not sure how much they will keep the focus on boats and cruises. I never heard anyone complain...yet. Also, this time of year is crazy in Croatia and people are leaving skiing next week so most businesses respond slowly. Not good but...
If you have any questions feel free to ask!
Posts: 16 | Location: Croatia | Registered: 05 November 2008
I'm chiming in here probably while Kaydee is in China.
We really liked Croatia. Spent about 12 days there last September. Flew into Dubrovnik, took a Jadrolinija boat to Korcula, a catamaran to Split. Then rented a car for Plitvice and Istria. We ended up in Trogir and flew out of the Split airport nearby.
We loved Korcula, the smaller scale, the slower island pace. But the whole country is great to visit. It's not hard to get away from the tourist crowds (except maybe in July and August). And except maybe in Dubrovnik, when the cruise ships flood the town. Plitvice was wonderful; it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But there are other great national parks. Check out Krka and Brijuni, just for starters.
Croatia does feel a little bit like you're going back in time. The travel experience is more personal. Fortunately English is widely spoken. At the same time, if you're using buses, ferries and boats to get around, you need to be careful about making sure your travel plans fit their schedule, especially out of high season. You can't just assume someone will be going where you want to go when you want to go.
We regretfully decided we didn't have enough time for Slovenia this trip. But it looks wonderful too. More like Austria than Italy.
Posts: 133 | Location: Seattle, WA USA | Registered: 11 March 2004
I have to say that Croatia is one of my favorite places to visit.
First of all Dubrovnik is a must see destination. The charm of 3 different periods of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque are seen throughout the walled city. Its fun just meandering through the tiny walkways and finding the best cafe's and food. Oh and talking about food you might want to try Konoba Pupo Restaurant it has fabulous food including fish and steak dishes and its reasonably priced.
Take a walk along the ramparts of the city to get the best views of Old Town, and spectacular views of the turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea. Although you can somewhat see the Marina from on top it's not the best for picture taking. I would suggest to go up the road that follows the coast if you want to get some good shots of Dubrovnik and the ancient marina. But the rest of the town is very picturesque and a blast to explore. The Fountain of Big Onofrio was built in 1444 just inside the entry gate was the first to bring fresh water into the city and is said to bring you luck when you drink from the spouts.
One of the best parts of visiting Croatia is the Dalmation Coast. You won't find more beautiful beaches and stunningly clear blue water anywhere. Villages dot the coast and boast some of the best eateries and night clubs.
I actually would suggest a car, it's not hard to navigate and if you worry about getting lost you can request a GPS system as a backup. You will find amazing architecture in the interior and Zagreb is a great place to visit.
There is so much to see and do. Just do a little research and I think you will find Croatia will be one of your best vacation memories!
Like Kaydee we are planning a trip to Croatia for end of September. Where would you suggest staying (besides Dubrovnik) Hvar or Korcula? We are travelling with friends but think that we might spend a couple of days in Zagreb on our own at the end. Any recommendations for accomodation in Hvar and Korcula. Any input welcome Jabo
Posts: 164 | Location: Israel | Registered: 07 December 2001
Everyone in our family has been studying guidebooks, researching on the internet and sending off inquiries about our trip to Croatia.
We made a big step this last day-- we booked our flights, so we are definitely going to Croatia! The best alternative for us was flying EasyJet and we'll fly from Rome to Dubrovnik and then from Split to London, twelve nights in all, from July 25 to August 6. I know the timing is peak vacation season, but this is when we can go. And I know traveling by EasyJet can be different, but it works for millions of Europeans and we'll keep our luggage/shopping minimal.
We spent a few weeks pursuing the idea of a cruise. We liked the idea of a leisurely week, seeing a lot of the area, good food, and connecting with other passengers. But we concluded that's not the travel approach for us this time around. We'd like to take advantage of boats and ferries, but not for sleeping.
Rather than move around a lot, we've decided to settle in just two bases and day trip with a car (or by ferry) to see other places. And we want to stay in apartments, where we'll have more room to spread out and can fix some of our own meals. We'll stay seven nights in Dubrovnik, where we're just finalizing arrangements for an apartment. After Dubrovnik we'll drive to the Split area for five days. I'd like to stay in or around Trogir, and I've sent off lots of inquiries the last 24 hours.
We've done at least 25 rentals in many parts of Europe (UK, France, Italy, Austria, Germany, Spain) and it has been interesting looking at rentals on the Croatian coast. There must be an IKEA nearby, based on the furnishings. And some of the color schemes are very unusual. I think I've gotten pickier in my apartment choosing over time, or maybe I just enjoy the hunt for the perfect place... the right combination of location, decor, amenities, view, and friendly local host. I'm glad we have a bad weather weekend to stay inside and hopefully wrap some of this up!
Others have said that planning a trip in Croatia is challenging, and I agree. We knew almost nothing about the country starting out, but the more we learn, the more excited we are. It seems there is a growing amount of internet info, plus more travelers to share information. We appreciate everyone who has offered such helpful advice!
It certainly is a challenge planning a Croatia trip.. we need to get to Croatia from Budapest where we are meeting up with friends and travelling together. Thanks to the information I received from Alan here on Slow Trav... I have to wait till Malev Airlines publish their summer schedule.. I guess about end of March before I can plan any further.... But it is going to be worth it!
Posts: 164 | Location: Israel | Registered: 07 December 2001
I've just finished listening to the Book on Tape of Rebecca West's Black lamb and grey falcon: a journey through Yugoslavia. It covers vast swaths of territory historically, philosophically and emotionally, from a very human perspective, and although it's clearly one (very smart) woman's distinctive point of view, it's a fascinating first-hand look at the Balkans just before World War II.
The book is quite long, but if you do a lot of traveling, the sound recording (by Donada Peters) is full of of verve and character, and if you listened to it as a family would be like having a good storyteller tell you a tale with lots of occasion for debate, humor and reflection. West was fully conscious of writing at a critical time in the region's history, and hoped both to shape people's views and to record what might soon be lost. Although many of the details have already been lost on me, I feel as though I have been through a great saga and gained a sense of the cultural background, context and complications so that for the first time the area truly makes sense to me.
I notice that it is also available in Kindle, which might be good as it is searchable; but I highly recommend seeing if your library has or can get the audiobook.
Also, you might be interested in this ST thread from 2007.
We visited in summer 2006. One of the things I liked about the region was the fact that we had to "wing it" more--get a bit more out of my comfort zone. At the same time, the Croatians are hospitality experts and very welcoming. Our taxi ride across Hvar was simultaneously hair-raising (one-lane highway) and breathtakingly beautiful (fields upon fields of lavender in bloom.) From Dubrovnik, we rented a car and took a day trip along the Montenegro coast. The Bay of Kotor is spectacular and not to be missed.
Posts: 44 | Location: Amelia Island | Registered: 25 December 2005
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