I've enjoyed reading Pauline's first week report: looking forward to all the rest. One sentence sprang out: "The trail was rutted and rocky and was hard on the knees going down. It took about 2 hours (but some of that time was me just standing there and complaining)."
Now remember, Pauline, I know exactly how old you are

(Long term readers of the Italian Lang forum might remember that back in Jan it surfaced that Pauline and Philippa, my wife, were born on the same day). And I know that I'm 18 months older, and that my knees aren't as resilient as they once were. I'd dismissed walking poles as the sort of gimmicky things that Europeans (remember that for us Brits, Europe starts on the other side of the channel

) went in for. Cluttering up the hands, getting in the way etc etc.
3 years ago, though, we were in Lauterbrunnen for a few days hiking (on the way to longer stays in Siena and Barcelonette). And the owner of one of the sports shops talked us into buying a pair. After trying them out one afternoon, we were back in the next day for another pair. For us, at least, they are indispensable for long hilly walks. They really do take an awful lot of strain off the knees on descents, and the extra upper body strength that you can bring in on ascents is a great help.
I've used them on walks in the English Lake District that I've done in previous, pre-pole years, and really noticed the improvement. And they were absolutely invaluable on our 2 long walks in the Sibillini (only two weeks ago

. Trip report promised): both featured Big ascents and descents.
And they're one of the few things that are cheaper in Switzerland than in the UK.
Jonathan