Steve and I are back from our 17 day trip to Croatia. We had a wonderful time, and I want to thank the people (Ann, Terry, Sheena especially) who gave me generous advice, which we certainly put to work for excellent hotels and restaurants. Within the next month, I'll put together some reviews and a photo album for SlowTrav. And hopefully I will write my first ever trip report. There seems to be a lot of interest in Croatia, and most Americans don't know much about it. Thus, I'll contribute what I can.
Briefly, here was our itinerary, if anyone has any questions: We flew directly to Rome and stayed there for 4 days, flew Croatia Airlines to Split for a day, followed by 4 days on Hvar island. We were then 7 days on a cheap, informal cruise around the Dalmation islands-only 20 people, mostly fun loving Australians, and we enjoyed the camaraderie. We ended with another day in Split, and a bus trip to Dubrovnik. We spent 3 days in Dubrovnik and flew home from there, through Rome again.
Public transportation (in our case, ferry and bus) works smoothly there, making a car pretty much unnecessary if you stay in Dalmatia. However, it was nice to have one for a few days on Hvar. We were told that "everyone speaks English." And in this case, it was true. I practiced Croatian phrases, and really never used them. It is an extraordinarily easy place to visit. September was a great month to visit. We had glorious weather with the exception of 3 or 4 rare gray sprinkly days. The sea was blue like the Caribbean and was still warm enough for swimming.
As I said, I'll provide some fun details in a report later. Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
I am so happy that you enjoyed your trip Linda, and that our shared info was helpful.
As you may know our plans had to be 'adjusted' a bit this summer and sadly we had to cut out the Croatia segment - so I will look forward to your trip report knowing that at some point we will get to Dubrovnik!
Welcome home, Linda -- I've been thinking about you and hoping that you had half as good a time in Croatia as we did. Can't wait to hear the details of your trip!
Aloha, Ann
Posts: 1606 | Location: Sunset Beach (Haleiwa), Hawaii, USA | Registered: 16 September 2001
Wow, the three of you were right on this with responses! When my head becomes less fuzzy (I'm still jet lagged) and I've organized some notes, you'll hear from me.
Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Thanks for the sketch of your trip - looking forward to your TR. Croatia is on our horizon - 2011 perhaps. From your previous recommendations, whatever works for you will appeal to us.
I'm knee deep in photos right now - my first job to tackle. I love working on the photos. Lots of editing to be done!
Just a few things- Terry, Villa Stina (Split) was just great. I'd like to clone Mario and Ivana and have them as hosts wherever I go. And Ljiljana (Dubrovnik) was a joy to know. Steve and I agreed that our view from her place up there was probably the best view from a room we've ever had. The stairs were indeed a challenge - we took them a few times but I finally chose the gentler road route. Ann, Hvar was just wonderful. We stayed in Hvar town, at Hotel Villa Nora, which we loved. We didn't see where you stayed, but I think it was on the south shore of the island - under Jelsa? We should have done more exploring when we had the car (long story). We enjoyed swimming there.
About the boat trip (Sail-Croatia, traditional cruise)- We laughed and laughed. The boat accommodations were probably too cramped and crude for most people. It was challenging to get truly comfortable, but it was so much fun and the scenery was so great that we really didn't much care. It was just like a traveling campground, not a "cruise" If we were to do it again we probably would have gone with their choice of an upgraded boat, but I honestly don't think we would have had any more fun. I must admit however that it was heavenly to check into a real room with a real bed and a real bathroom at the end of our week on the boat.
Doug, the only part of Croatia that we saw was the Dalmation coast and its islands. This was primarily a sun & sea holiday for us, though we saw Split and Dubrovnik thoroughly, and the Dalmation islands offer historic towns. Many fellow travelers were going to Zagreb,the Plitvice Lakes and to Rovinj and Istria. We missed all that. We'll go to Slovenia and Istria on another trip I think.
Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Linda, we gave up on the stairs, too. Found the sloping of the street much easier to navigate. Amazing view at Ljiljana's place huh? So glad you liked it, and Villa Stina in Split, too. Really gracious hosts and lovely digs.
Your cruise sounds like a riot. Just goes to show you that when you have the right attitude, it's (mostly) all good on vacation.
For all of your interested in Croatia, here is a link to the photo album I just uploaded on SlowPhotos. I chose just a sampling of a ridiculous number of photos! I've almost completed a trip report and have submitted some reviews of lodging and restaurants. Those are pending. It was all fun to do. I enjoyed spending a couple of days pouring through my trip journal. If I were still working, it would have taken me many months!
Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Linda, thanks so much for posting your great album of photos. It was like a trip back to Croatia for me, and especially the view from Ljiljana's place.
I too have just come back from Croatia and hope to add more to this Forum. I was with my 3 adult sons for about a week - 5 days in Hvar town and two in Dubrovnik. It was supposed to be more but an eye problem in Venice meant cutting out a few days in Croatia.
We where there from October 6 to 12 and I think it was too late. Many hotels, restaurants, Internet cafes, etc. where shut down and at times we had the feeling that some locals didn't want to see any more tourists. That didn't deter us though and we found many helpful, friendly people. One highlight of the trip was a boat over to Palmizana on St. Clemente island and a 3.5 km hike to Kanobe Dionis, s mall restaurant that served the most delicious grilled meats and fish. The water was unbelievably clear and blue and the swimming great although water shoes are helpful as the beaches are all rocky.
It poured heavily in Dubrovnik (the first rainfall since June) but fortunately cleared up for a few hours so we could do the walk around the walls of the city. It is beautiful city and one that I will return to along with Korkula, Split, and more of the Dalmatian Islands.
My youngest son wants to take his wife on a cruise like you did, Linda. What was the name of the company? Thanks for the memories and a special thank you to teaberry who helped with the planning for this "Guy's European Vacation".
Posts: 62 | Location: West Coast of Canada | Registered: 28 August 2006
Gerry and Joy, Sorry that you were challenged with an eye problem and with some rain. Still it sounds like you were able to enjoy yourselves, even into October.
About the boat trip - We booked through a website, http://www.sail-croatia.com They were quite pleasant and efficient. On the website they offer several kinds of cruises. We booked the "traditional cruise." If we were to do it again, we would probably book the "deluxe cruise" simply for improved comfort. WARNING- The "navigator cruise" is indeed for young partiers, just as hinted at on the website. We would definately would have been out of place on that one! There are lots of these motor cruisers in the islands, some booked by German sites, some including bicycles. They are all fairly small boats, with maybe 10-15 cabins and Croatian crews. My trip report- not yet posted on line- will give a little more information. I have found that boats of a similar type, most of them a little larger, are available for the Greek islands, and I'm considering them for an upcoming adventure. Obviously, we enjoyed this style of travel. It gave us a really good slow look at the islands, and provided lots of time to chat with fellow travelers.
Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004
Gerry, thanks for the update on your trip. Sorry to hear about your eye situation. We would love to hear more about your trip. Rather than hijack Linda's thread, can you either start a new one or pick up on one of your other threads? (there is something magical about Dubrovnik, isn't there?)
Nice to hear that you enjoyed your trip! Lately, like Linda pointed out, smaller and more luxurious boats are becoming increasingly popular. These are gullet boats just like in Turkey (they are made in Turkey).
Sail Croatia (or Katarina Line as their partner in Croatia) is known for good tours although the boats are not up to the highest of standards.
Also, like most of the travelers from the Western countries, you completely skip North Dalmatia with Zadar and Šibenik. Try to have at least one day in these places since those are simply pearls waiting to be discovered! For sailing, they are FAR BETTER than anywhere else on our coast with over 400 islands in this small area creating wonderful archipelagos.
Yes, I'd love to see more options for small boat travel - everywhere! We aren't cruise people in the usual sense, but a small boat can be delightful. Dalmatia, we are indeed inspired to see more of the Croatian coast (and Croatia in general) and would probably even sign on with Katarina line again. Linda
Posts: 934 | Location: Outlying area of Chicago | Registered: 15 September 2004