I am starting to plan this part of my journey.. and could use some help from my fellow slowtravelers.

I'll have 3 weeks - roughly, May 20 to June 16 - in Croatia. I'll need to work some evenings and mornings - so it is not really a leisure trip, but of course I will find time to see the sights too. So a little bit of both.

For my first week, I'm thinking Rovinj or Pula in Istria. For the second, Hvar. For the third, Dubrovnik. I don't think I will make it to Zagreb on this trip and I will try to do an en-route stop in the Plitvice National Park. Would also consider staying inland in Istria, instead of Rovinj or Pula - especially in a "wine town."

I need to live extremely cheaply. I've got some inexpensive places bookmarked for lodgings and am looking still. I was also thinking of getting Split into the mix (instead of Hvar?) because of bus connections to see other areas. But Hvar sounds pretty cool.

So - Rovinj or Pula or somewhere else in Istria?
Split or Hvar? I won't post links just yet - I'll wait until I've got a few for each before I ask for advice on where to stay...

Thanks for any advice

Shannon, our small ship stopped in both Split and Hvar in the off season (November). Hvar was dead, but we were told that Bill Gates and other biggies anchor yachts there in the summer and that streets are crowded then. Island is scenic.

Split is much bigger and I thought Diocletian's Palace was a must see. I suppose that when the cruise ships dock there the city is over-run. The cafes along the big promenade are the usual tourist kind. But it's easy to get away from that, find interesting little shops.

Did not go to Istria--next time!

I'm excited for your trip, Shannon. I was in Croatia in early June (08) - the weather was splendid, a couple of days even warm enough to swim.

Due to time constraints, I wasn't able to visit the Istria area, but it's the first place I would go on my next visit. Sorry I can't help you there.

Hvar or Split? Hmm. Win, win, really. I stayed in Split, and day-tripped to Hvar. I'm thinking that you may have more day options that way, since you're already on the mainland. Those ferry/catamaran/boat rides can add up. Both places are uniquely beautiful in their own rights. Hvar, quiet; Split, more action.

I don't know if you've checked this one out yet or not, but one site that I relied on heavily in my trip planning was Croatia Traveller. Lots of good tips and advice from a seasoned visitor.

In Croatia I think you can find extremely reasonably priced accommodation options. I was warned to beware of the sobe-ladies. They are in the bigger coastal towns and love to greet people at the dock and bus terminals. They carry signs and offer great prices. I've heard stories where people who take them up on their offers are often scammed, or travel very far to their sobe, so buyer beware.

When I stayed in Split, we were situated just outside the walls of the Diocletian Palace. It was still old and historic, and just a few blocks' walk to the Palace. I think prices are a little cheaper outside the walls. I stayed at Villa Stina, but I shared the costs with a friend, and I think you can find cheaper than that.

You absolutely cannot miss the Buza Bar in Dubrovnik. It's on the side of a cliff on the Adriatic - probably the most beautiful bar in the world. A little hard to find, but if you ask anyone in town, they can direct you.

Maitaitom also spoke very highly of the Buza Bar here and in his trip reports.
Nancy

Shannon,
I know you are going to love Croatia, we have been there a couple of times and plan to go back soon. I wrote a hotel review for Casa Garzotto in Rovinj, they also have apartments, don't know if it fits your budget, but it was one of our all time favorites, as was Rovinj. I believe it is much smaller than Pula, but was such a special place to stay.

Loved the hill towns, but night time in Rovinj was magical. We didn't get to Split, but really enjoyed Hvar, drank wine and watched the world cup with locals. I highly recommend a small restaurant there,"Konoba's Slow Food".

Dubrovnik will just stay in your heart forever. Where ever you decide to go, I know you will have an amazing trip.

I will say that Istria is such a short drive (or ferry) from Italy that it could be saved for a later trip. I would try to see all of the beautiful Dalmation coast possible while I was there. We also enjoyed the small island of Losinj where our daughter-in-law's family have a small summer villa.

Oh well, actually we enjoyed every place that we visited in Croatia, even Zagreb. The market there and the outdoor cafes were a favorite.

It will be a great trip!
Cracker

Shannon, Croatia is beautiful and you'll love it. Glad you want to go to Plitvice as it is so beautiful and fun to hike. Have you checked in with Tony of da Roma fame? He spends much of his time in Croatia and has lots of connections there. You probably know that. I blogged a little of our trip. If interested just find that link in the blog sidebar.

Thanks for the tips everyone. Jane, I already read your blog - years ago and again now.

I have reversed the order - I am going to Dubrovnik first, because the lodgings get way more expensive in June. I may end up flying out of Zagreb - in which case I will have a couple of days there at the end. I'm having a heck of a time finding inexpensive one-way flights.

I have gone ahead and booked this place for Dubrovnik - Sunset Apartments

I got a studio apartment for 350 euros which would have basically doubled 2 weeks later. So I booked it just to get it done - now I will work on the rest.

Definitely considering Split instead of Hvar.

QUOTE]I'm having a heck of a time finding inexpensive one-way flights.[[/QUOTE]

Shannon, when we went to Croatia two summers ago, I also had problems with the flights. I ended up booking on Easy Jet, flying from Rome to Dubrovnik and then at the end of our time in Croatia from Split to Gatwick, direct flights and very economical.

We've flown Easy Jet a couple of times and we haven't had any problems. The biggest issue is making sure you don't exceed the luggage weight limit, and you can buy more weight on the front end if you think it's a problem. You might want to look into their flights.

Kathy

Shannon don't miss Plitvice...it is not only my favorite place in Croatia but one of the most amazing places I have seen in all my travels...and of course you will love Croatia..

Pula may not be as popular as some other places, but for travel in Istria, it is the only town with excellent public transport. Great for a trip to local wineries too.

www.pulainfo.hr
www.trapanwine.hr. Bus #24 and #25 from the centre.

quote:

I'm having a heck of a time finding inexpensive one-way flights.

I flew from Dubrovnik to Paris via Zagreb (the only way in mid-September) and I too was shocked at the price. $350 for the one way. I looked every day for months and it never changed.

Everyone is touting Plitvice--I will caution you to go at opening. We did that and it was fine at first, but by 11 am we felt like we were in line at Disneyland. Incredible crowds, and since you're on a boardwalk in the water, if someone up front stops to take a picture the whole line backs up. People get really pushy and it gets unpleasant. Don't miss the ladies selling struedel in the huts by the main entrance.

In Dubrovnik be sure to stock up on groceries on the way in to town. Our host told us that all the locals shop at the megamarts outside of town--the "grocery stores" in town are smaller than 7-11s and do not have a good selection. I was really looking forward to cooking after eating Croatian food for the previous week, and because I'd been warned that the restaurants were bad and overpriced (by our host again, for one) but it was barely possible by shopping the groceries in town. There is a small produce market in town, which was a godsend. I wished I'd known to stop on the way in before we dropped off our car!

Shannon, those apartment looks great. If you're in the harbor or the beach, I think it's a home run.

The apartment I stayed in was outside of the Old Town, up on the hill. We had a very local grocery less than a block from us, and did our shopping there. I'm sure you could also ask the owners of the apartment, or even neighbors, if they could point you towards a local market nearby.

When I visited Plitvice in early June, I had a similar experience to Christy. We got there early, around 10am actually, and within an hour or so the place got busy and crowded. It's just so uniquely beautiful, that I overlooked the crowds and sucked in everything around us. Loads of hiking trails, boat rides, and places to shake off some of the busloads, btw.

I also thought that the drive from Plitvice to the sea (we went to Zadar) was an amazing one. The change in microclimate is almost startling, going from thick lush woodlands to a dry Mediterranean clime. Really beautiful countryside.

If you can get to Zagreb, you won't regret it. I LOVED that town. It's a total buzz, old and new, young and old. Great bar/resto scene. I actually thought of you when I was there.

We really loved Rovinj - stayed in very nice, clean reasonable guest house that has a range of accommodation types (apartments, rooms/etc) and the owners are lovely.

http://www.apartmaniaurora-zoran.hr/index_en.htm

Thanks everyone for all this great advice.

I am seriously considering leaving Dubrovnik for another trip. It is expensive to get there, and it sounds like it will be expensive to BE there. It may be good on this trip to focus on other places, since I am on a rather strict budget. It will be so much easier to take the train from Venice across the border. (I will be in Venice before Croatia.)

Question - I am going to need to get my passport stamped when I enter Croatia - do they stamp passports when you cross the border by train?

Liz - that place looks great! Thanks for the link.

Shannon, since Croatia is not in the EU, I expect they will stamp the passport when you cross the border..should be no problem at all...did you have a concern?

By the way, I have mixed feeling about Dubrovnik..we did spend 5 days there. In retrospect, while I would not skip it, I would not use it as a base simply because it is so crowded and expensive and the food lousy. Of course I can't talk enough about Plitvice. We went in May and spend a night there. We got there late morning, checked into the B&B had a leisurly lunch at the Licka Kuka which we loved, and then saw the Lower Lakes until the sun set...the crowds were gone by then. The next morning we made an early start to the Upper Lakes and did a leisurely walk (the train was not working when we were there) and it was simply gorgeous. We got back and saw the lower lakes again in the morning light and it was so different. We did see tour groups, but they tend to rush in and out, so we just let them pass...in May we did not find it crowded...

Letha, yeah, a bit concerned because I must show that I have left the Schengen area... I've never crossed that border before. And many times they have not stamped my passport in Italy, or stamped it wrong. So I just want to make sure they stamp it when I enter into Croatia. Leaving will be by air (to Paris most likely) so I am not so worried about that stamp.

Regarding Dubrovnik it just seems like maybe it is best saved for another day. I am sure I will get back to that part of the world. But I am still working on the plan. It will get there - it always does.

Shannon, did you ever check-in with Tony?

Since Tony is recovering from that accident, I don't want to bug him... I'll wait a bit.

quote:

By the way, I have mixed feeling about Dubrovnik..we did spend 5 days there. In retrospect, while I would not skip it, I would not use it as a base simply because it is so crowded and expensive and the food lousy.

My sentiments exactly. I was stunned at the crowds in mid-September. That combined with the heat and humidity, the shamelessly touristy atmosphere (someone selling trinkets around every corner), the small size, and the bad food, means that I would not use it as a base again.

Shannon, you probably read my trip report from 2009. Good advice here and I will add-
Yes, you can skip Dubrovnik for now. I am glad that we saw it, but the cruise ship crowds were awful.
Do get out to the islands. Even if you don't tour the island, enjoy the port. Even the lesser known islands are wonderful. The Adriatic is beautiful.
Yes, spend time on Hvar if you can find the lodging you want. It's great. I would base there, tho I like Split for transportation.

Linda

If you are going to Istria from Venice, you should take a train to Trieste, you should then take a bus from there. Trieste train and bus stations are very close to each other.

quote:

Originally posted by Shannon:
Letha, yeah, a bit concerned because I must show that I have left the Schengen area... I've never crossed that border before. And many times they have not stamped my passport in Italy, or stamped it wrong. So I just want to make sure they stamp it when I enter into Croatia. Leaving will be by air (to Paris most likely) so I am not so worried about that stamp.

Shannon, I have no idea if this is helpful to you or not, as I can't say that I completely understand the Schengen situation, but I flew between London and Zagreb and received no stamp from Croatia, only from London. On the other hand, when I drove very briefly through Bosnia, I got stamped by the Croatian government. Also got a stamp from the Montenegran government for driving into their country.

As for Dubrovnik, saving it for another day sounds like a plan. There are so many things to do and places to go all over Croatia. You will love the people, too.

quote:

but I flew between London and Zagreb and received no stamp from Croatia,

Probably wishful thinking on their part since they are trying to become part of the EU :-). We did get a stamp in Zagreb (and also for Bosnia and Montenegro)but we flew in from USA. For Bosnia we had to ask for the stamp as a souvenir..

They have become quite lax about border crossings within Europe, but you can always ask for a stamp. In the past when crossing borders by train in Europe, the ticket checker just collects all our passports and gets it stamped while we slept...

I've read all the trip reports - twice.

Linda, I was even considering the Sail Croatia thing due to your trip report. But, I am not a strong swimmer (in fact I am not a swimmer at all even though I once lived on a boat) so I decided it would be a lot of hanging out on deck and drinking.

It is my plan to get this all sorted out in the next week.

In the meantime - looks like Cadogan Guides has a book on Croatia, but by a different author than my other Cadogan guides. (My favorite travel writers, Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls, wrote all the Cadogan Guides I own.) If anyone has it, can you let me know if it is worth picking up?

Shannon-I am not a strong swimmer either, and enjoy just bobbing around in the ocean like a cork! Happily the Adriatic was calm and warm.

Re:Cadogen guides-I too love those, because they seem relatively honest. Beware the guidebook that proclaims everything wonderful.

We hope to get to Istria in Sept. It's a very loose itinerary that we are planning. I need to learn about hill towns that might offer either nice overnight stops or quick visits. Would like to see Rovijn.

Linda

I've actually been checking out some cruise options. It seems like a good way to see a lot of places I want to see (though, there is not a lot of time in each port as far as I can tell.)

In my research, I came across this. I bet the crew likes to work that one!

Well - takes packing light to a new level.

OK, I am spending an insane amount of time looking at these cruises. A bit.. trepiditious but heck, it won't cost me much more than renting apartments/rooms and paying ferry fees.

http://cruises.croatia-istria.com/pearls_south.html

Even with my own room it is a pretty good deal.

Argh.. I hate it when I can't make up my freeking mind.

The cruise sounds as though you get to see some interesting places that may have been a bit difficult to get to by yourself.

You can research them and do the sight seeing yourself rather than with a guide or join with a small group of fellow passengers to cut the cost of a guide.

I notice that the ship only has breakfast and lunch so must be in port so you can eat on shore at a cafe or restaurant.

In Dubrovnik most cruise ships will leave late afternoon, early evening so crowds shouldn't be as bad when you are looking for a drink and dinner.

Jill

Comments on our small cruise:
Nice thing about these small boats is that they dock in harbor with private boats. No tether needed to deliver you to and from a huge ship. You can come and go anytime.
Usually there are two meals a day. It will include evening meal or lunch depending on when they will be in port. And that may depend on weather. We loved finding a little restaurant while exploring, so viewed that as a plus.
We felt it a great value, all in all.
I will take a good look at that link you provided for cruises. We would love to do it again sometime.
Linda

Shannon, I think a cruise in a small boat is a good idea for you and especially for the coast of Croatia. I looked into a cruise for our 2010 trip, but Charley is so fair and has to really watch the sun, so anchoring and swimming in the sea wasn't a practical kind of vacation for him. And after such a long trip and eating in restaurants, we did like the idea of more space and being able to cook some of our own meals.

But looking back on our time in Croatia, I wish we had moved a little more-- perhaps less of a "slow travel" trip. I would have liked to stay on an island or two (really would have liked to see Hvar), and it was more difficult to day trip to many of the islands than I thought it would be. A small ship is a way to stay in one place (the boat) but still get to see a lot of different places.

Keep us posted on your plans!

Kathy

My plan is... well, changing - but it is slowly getting there. Here is how it is looking at the moment. Plans to go to Dubrovnik first are scrapped - I have to fly from Croatia to Paris (now on the 13th not the 16th) and then from Paris to Ljublana. I tried all manner of different flight combos, and flying Venice to Dubrovnik was not working. It makes way more sense to go over the border by bus and fly from Dubrovnik to Paris at the end.

I am leaving Venice on a Sunday and there don't seem to be any buses or ferries that day, so I will go by train to Trieste most likely, spend the night and then take the bus to Rovinj the next day. I'll spend 5 nights there.

Then I am thinking about this cruise - the KL 1 on the Katarina line. It departs from Opatija.
KL 1

One nice thing about this particular cruise is, on day you get back to Opatija to disembark there is an optional day trip to Plitvice park for 50 euros.

After that, a few days in Split or Hvar. I am leaning towards Hvar.

Finally I will go to Dubrovnik for 4 nights only at the end. I was thinking of not going there on this trip, but I must go to the Buda Bar. I even found an apartment that is only 50 meters away.

So much for 3 bases!
By the way Kathy, I did check out EasyJet but most routes to Croatia are in the summer only, and won't work for me.

Actually, we found the small boat a rather "slow trav" experience. It didn't cover much area, you could explore on foot independently with plenty of time, and it was fairly flexible. We are not cruise people and we liked it.
The cruise you are looking at, Shannon, is one that we were considering as a possibility for a second, more northern, experience. I will be greatly curious to hear your tales if you do this.
As I said in my trip report, these boats are not for everyone!
I think your plans sound great. I wish I could recommend some budget accommodations on Hvar. We were there for 4 nights, but we splurged on nice hotel.
Linda

quote:

Maitaitom also spoke very highly of the Buza Bar

Yes, the eighth wonder of the world. Enjoy!!

If you decide to stay on Hvar, let me know. I have a friend who has rooms for rent. Small, nothing special. But a good price and a good location. it is where i stay when I am there.

If you end up spending time in Zagreb. You are welcome to use my apartment. It is not central. About a 10-15 minute taxi ride to the center. If you go the hotel route I highly recommend the hotel Dubrovnik for both price and location. There is no place more central than this hotel.

Regarding passport stamps and trains. I would say they do so about 50-75% of the time. Cars less than 25% of the time. Boats 75-100% of the time and planes 100% of the time. I have crossed the border dozens of times and in every manner possible. So you can trust those percentages!

Dubrovnik is expensive!!!!!!!!!! But also is Hvar. Not as bad as Dubrovnik, but still pretty bad compared to most of the country.

If you are thinking about a cruise, let me know. I can send you some links for cruises. Gullets are very popular. These are small wooden ships that usually have between 5 and 10 cabins. They reach ports and islands that normal cruise ships could never dock at. And if you are in party mode, there are even gullet party cruises!!!

Can you not take a train from Venice to Trieste and then a bus into Croatia all in the same day? I have done it several times. IMO, Trieste is not that interesting to spend a night in.

And BTW, Shannon you are always welcome to bother me!

Thanks Tony

I am almost finished with my plans. I will have to spend one night in Trieste, because there are no buses from Trieste to Croatia on Sundays. So I will go to Trieste on Sunday and then take the bus to Croatia on Monday.

The week long boat trip is out. I figure I can do a day tour or two if I really want to be on a boat. Next time.

The first week I am going to spend in Rovinj. I rented an apartment from these folks:
http://www.rovinjapartments.info/
Sanja at this agency has been awesome. From Rovinj I'll do a couple of day trips by bus. Maitai Tom wrote about a wine bar there I want to check out. (Most likely more than twice.)

After that week, I am going to rent a car for two days and go to Plitvice National Park. I want a whole day to hang out in the park and around... for the two nights there I am staying here: Plitvice Etno House

After that I will drive to Trogir, drop the car and stay there for 3 nights (and have a day trip to Split from there.) In Trogir I am staying here: Smuketa Apartments

Then on to Hvar. Thanks for the note about your friend, Tony but I have already booked something there. I'll be 5 nights at Apartments Komazin.

From there I take the ferry to Dubrovnik, which IS expensive so I will stay there only 4 nights at an apartment close to the Buza Bar then move for my last two nights to Cavtap, closer to the airport because I think I am going to have a 6:30 AM flight to Paris when I leave Croatia.

So much for "3 weeks 3 bases" and I am bummed to miss Zagreb on this trip - but hopefully I am going to be spending so much time in Europe in the next few years that I will be forced to go back to Croatia to get out of the Schengen area. (Assuming they never join the EU, anyway.)

The only things I have left to book are the car and the place in Cavtap. Everyone I have dealt with so far is so nice, prompt and helpful. I can't wait to meet them all!

Sounds Great! Enjoy Plitvice my favourite of all the places.

Just watched Anthony Bourdain's new No Reservations show on Croatia, his first show there. He focused on northern coastal Croatia. Website called Taste of Croatia gives map and itinerary. I really enjoyed his enthusiasm, edgy as always but seemingly genuine. A good show, great fun for us Croatia fans.
Linda

Oh, Linda! I saw that show, too! It was fabulous and put a new destination on my itinerary!

The food and wine look fabulous, along with the natural beauty of Croatia.

Laura

Hi Shannon,

My husband and I will be staying in Rovinj for 6 nights, from May 28 through June 3rd, 2012.

What is the name of the wine bar that MaitaiTom told you about?
Do you know of any good restaurants in Rovinj?
Have a great time!
Laurie

Three good restaurants in Rovinj,
Monte.
Blu. (A 5 minute drive from town on the north shore)
Al Gastaldo.
Bye the way, there are buses to Croatia from Trieste on a Sunday.

Thanks for the restaurant recommendations, Kathy!

Laurie, I will just miss you. I leave on the 28th. The link to Maitai Tom's is above (Nancy posted it.) Lots of good information there.

Thanks for the info Kathy - I have not found any bus to Rovinj on a Sunday, it looks like there is one to Pula. I am now thinking of staying in Venice the Sunday night and then catching the one from here on Monday instead of shlepping everything to Trieste.

quote:

Just watched Anthony Bourdain's new No Reservations show on Croatia, his first show there. He focused on northern coastal Croatia. Website called Taste of Croatia gives map and itinerary. I really enjoyed his enthusiasm, edgy as always but seemingly genuine. A good show, great fun for us Croatia fans.

I enjoyed the episode but watched it with a bit of skepticism. I'm sure if I could get famous chefs to take me out on a boat and cook for me, or if I was invited to the homes of restauranteurs, I would have gotten good meals in Croatia too! But for those of us that have to rely on being a regular patron in a restaurant, or have to shop at markets and cook ourselves, I found trying to get a good meal in Croatia VERY difficult. Worse than anywhere I've ever been. Perhaps the situation is better in the north, where Tony was, and where I haven't been. But I did notice that this episode was very different than his usual--usually the show is filled with restaurants where all of us can dine. Not so, the Croatia episode.

You made a good point about that show, Christy. We aren't likely to get the deluxe chefs tour. Still, the point was made that it is a beautiful country with quality artisanal food.
We ate well when we kept it simple - griled seafood, salad. Fresh and good. Baked goods not so great!
Linda

We did not get as far North as Anthony did but we did find better and more affordable food as we headed North of Dubrovnik Nd had one of our best meals at Sibenik which he mentions...yes he has some advantages we don't...

There's no doubt that the food in the Istria-Kvarner area of Croatia is a lot more refined.
http://www.tasteofcroatia.org/...ny-bourdain-croatia/