We returned last week from a twelve day trip to Croatia and fell in love with it.
We started out in Dubrovnik and spent a week there. It is a magical walled city; a week wasn't enough time to soak it all in.
From Dubrovnik we took a taxi to Korcula on the island of the same name. A bus goes there but not until 3 PM and we didn't want to arrive after dark (the sun set at 4:30). Korcula, a small walled town, had pretty much closed up in the off season but we were stuck there for two nights. We stayed at the Hotel Korcula which was old but we had a large room, decent bed and a good shower. We were catching the ferry to Split and the off season schedule for the ferry is only Thursday and Sunday. We took the bus to the end of the island of Korcula so we could see the countryside. Vela Luca is the town at the opposite end of the island and it is pretty drab. We were there at lunch time and found one restaurant open. We went in, asked for menus, and were told, "One plate for every person." We were game for that and it was one of the best meals we had...falling-off-the bone pork and risotto covered with gravy. With a glass of wine our meal was about $12.
Split gets mixed reviews but we enjoyed our overnight stay. We stayed at the Hotel Belleviw which had a great location; otherwise, it was just an adequate hotel. Split is a very lively town with many outdoor cafes along the palm tree lined shore. The old town was interesting but we later saw the sprawling ugly part of Croatia's second largest city. I don' think we needed more than a day and night there.
We took the bus back to Dubrovnik along the pretty coastline. It was a four and a half hour trip but it had only a handful of passengers and it stopped a couple of times so it was a pleasant trip.
The first week we were in Dubrovnik we stayed in the Hotel Excelsior which was a very nice hotel. When we returned to Dubrovnik at the end of our trip we stayed at the Villa Argentina, next to the Excelsior. It was much nicer than the Excelsior and the staff was so much friendlier. Whle we were at the Excelsior we would walk to the Argentia to talk with their concierge, a very friendly and helpful man. I would highly recommend the Villa Argentina.
We had a six hour layover in Zagreb so we hopped the bus and explored the old Upper Town for a few hours. It was Saturday and there was a huge market filled with stalls of flowers, fruits, vegetables, fish, etc. It was quite a sight!
I could go on and on about Croatia but if you would like to know more, just ask.
Posts: 7 | Location: Marietta, GA US | Registered: 05 August 2002
Would you like to write a trip report and some restaurant and hotel reviews to add to the Slow Trav site? We don't have much info about this intriguing area, and it seems as though you have some great experiences you could share.
Maureen
Posts: 4724 | Location: Boston or Florence | Registered: 07 July 2001
Thank you for this report and I will take you up on your offer of question answering closer to the time......Split is supposed to be one of the most beautiful parts, I'm told.
Judi, if you don't have time to write a report, may I copy your post to our trip report forum - there's plenty of great info that I think would fit nicely there - just let me know.
I'm envious of your trip! I've only been to Dubrovnik...loved it and want to do more. I'd never managed to get there in the years of Yugoslovia, then it was 'off limits' for years because of war. Croatia is going to become very popular within a few years, I predict...we need to go before the tourist blitz hits.
SALLY WATKINS, Certified Travel Counselor sally@century-tvl.com www.sallywatkins.com Italy Specialist Certified Swiss Specialist Certified Aussie Specialist My business depends on referrals - please tell someone today!
I would also recommend Villa Dubrovnik, it was lovely, the food was terrific. We expected Grace Kelly to walk across our terrace, it was just like out of a movie. Just a few minutes walk to the walled city or the hotel had a small boat that made frequent trips and could be hired for personal trips to other islands. One of the best vacations we have had and we are looking forward to going back to see more. We found the people very friendly, seemed like everything had been rebuilt by the Americans (posters with uncle sam shaking hands were all over the place.) The university allowed us to use their computers anytime we wished. They have done a beautiful job restoring everything since the war. We started out in Zagreb and left early as there was obvious tension between people due to the war. This was two years ago, hopefully things have changed.
Posts: 97 | Location: dallas | Registered: 14 August 2001
Denise, make it a full on trip. You will love every minute of it. I have been there four times now and can't wait for another return.
Terir, I was just speaking to Danijela (my Croatian girlfriend) about your post. She is not aware of anything in Dubrovnik that was built by the Americans at all. Neither of us can understand why you left Zagreb early. Due to what tensions? The war has been over for 10 years. There has not been tensions in ages and definitely not 2 or even 5 years ago. What happened when you were there?
Tony Polzer Tour Operator 3 Millennia Tours - Tours of Rome www.threemillennia.com tony@threemillennia.com
Posts: 1225 | Location: Rome, Italy; Zagreb, Croatia | Registered: 12 February 2003
Kim, you may copy my post to the trip report forum. I have more to add to it. Maureen, I will be happy to write some hotel and restaurant reviews.
Denise, you won't be satisfied with a short stopover. In fact, the people I know (including us) who have spent time there are planning a return.
Sally, Croatia is still relatively inexpensive. I wonder what will happen when they hope to enter the EU in 2007? I agree that one needs to go before the US tourist blitz hits. It is popular with Germans and Italians and more and more Britons are going. We saw some French as well, but very few North Americans.
Terir, I walked to the Villa Dubrovnik to check it out but it appeared to be closed for the season. Everything was closed up except that one corner room was occupied and I think may have been the caretaker. It is a lovely place but there are a lot of steps!!!
Tony, we took a day trip to Montenegro with a private driver and I can tell you there were a lot of tensions on both sides. I'll relate that story in my extended trip report.
Carol, if you would like to email me directly my address is pj2592 at bellsouth dot net. I would be happy to answer your questions.
When my post gets transferred to the trip report forum I will add to it. I just rattled off some things off the top of my head...misspellings and all!
Posts: 7 | Location: Marietta, GA US | Registered: 05 August 2002
quote:Originally posted by Tony da Roma: Denise, make it a full on trip. You will love every minute of it. I have been there four times now and can't wait for another return.
Terir, I was just speaking to Danijela (my Croatian girlfriend) about your post. She is not aware of anything in Dubrovnik that was built by the Americans at all. Neither of us can understand why you left Zagreb early. Due to what tensions? The war has been over for 10 years. There has not been tensions in ages and definitely not 2 or even 5 years ago. What happened when you were there?
Tony, this was about 3 years ago. We arrived by train from Vienna and a man came up and grabbed our suitcases before we could stop him. He immediatly set off telling us he would take us to the nicest hotel. We stopped him, said we wanted a hotel with airconditioning, at that he turned around and headed for a large hotel, just across from the train station. What supposedly was once and still was the best hotel in Zagreb, which I believed but I just cannot remember the name. Anyway, when we had walked the approx. 2 blocks with two small roller bags we asked the bellman at the hotel what we should pay this man. He suggested $5.00 we gave him $10.00 with that an onslaught of cursing, shoving, hitting, nose bleeding, torn clothes all started by the man who absconded with our bags in the first place. We were later told by hotel staff that we should never have let him have our bags (like we could stop him) and there are still many bad feelings after the war. We just never felt comfortable there, always seemed like an underlying current of animosity not towards us but between the Zabgrebs. As for the Americans building in Dubruvnik - all I know is in the new airport, at the university, within the walls of the city there were posters, everywhere, with uncle sam shaking hands - I cannot remember the caption but it was obvious U.S. funds had been used for the reconstruction after the war. Maybe the posters are all gone now but someone paid for the reconstruction, why not us? Maybe it was a hoax, heck I don't know. It is such a beautiful part of the world who cares! We hired a boat for the day and went south to Cavit (I think) and it was just lovely. We were told this had been where the enemy navy made it's headquarters and where their ships were anchored. Hard to believe at the time, sitting dock side, sipping wine overlooking a pristine, beautiful harbor, that there had ever been such an atrocity to take place. Ya know, I feel very badly and stupid that I do not know more about the historical facts with this war nor any. I don't know who the bad guys were or are. I just know it was a relief to see life go on, the human spirit it quite amazing. I think everyone need visit before it is overrun by the likes of us tourists! Oh, and yes, lots of steps down to the hotel but they have excellent service and it never was a problem.
Posts: 97 | Location: dallas | Registered: 14 August 2001
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