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Karen, I would recommend you email the list to both me and David. He is leaving soon and he can print it out and take it with him. I will add your entries to my Restaurant List. If some are already there - then I will add your extra review. Also, post your whole list on this thread. You can just paste it in. That way everyone can look at it now. Steve F leaves in a few days and may want to look at the list. Also Liz. Pauline's email: pauline@cohenkenny.com |
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| Posts: 26609 | Location: Santa Fe, NM | Registered: 15 June 2001 | |
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Moderator
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Although having two small dining companions did restrict our fine dining experiences, we did manage to eat quite well. Here are some of the restaurants we particularly enjoyed. We usually share the secondi, since the portions are so huge and we tend to be more interested in antipastos and primis.
MONTALCINO
BocconDivino
on main road from Siena to Montalcino, just outside town on the left
0577-848233
Although Pauline and David have already listed this one, I wanted to add my voice! We went here for a long lunch without the kids, and it was wonderful! They were only serving a fixed price 5 course meal at lunch during the week when we were there. It was fabulous! Lots of little tastes- 3 antipasti (panzanella, leek crostini, liver crostini); tomato soup; spinach lasagne(light as could be, if you can imagine a light and delicate tiny lasagna!); a choice of baked pecorino with grilled vegetables or grilled steak with tuscan beans puree; and creme brulee. It was around $30 per person, and well worth it.
FLORENCE
Buca del Orafo
Via di Girolami 28r
Firenze
Tel: 055-213619
This tiny place is right near the Ponte Vecchio, but you have to know where to look! It's on the little covered alleyway street to the left, just before the Arno and the Ponte Vecchio. The hotel Hermitage is just across.
Wonderful meal here! Not fancy, but excellent traditional tuscan food. Great food, funny waiters, nice mix or local businesspeople and tourists. Have the gnocchi, carpaccio with funghi, the osso bucco, and the fiore frite!
FIANO
Tiny hamlet bwtween Certaldo and San Casciano Val de Pesa
Il Grotto
Closed Sunday
Wonderful seafood restaurant in the hills between San Casiano Val de Pesa and Certaldo. Only open for dinner! We had incredible food here, and went several times. Outstanding were salmon carpaccio, seafood salads, grilled prawns, grilled bass, crostini, and the pizzas they only make Fri and Saturday nights. Beautiful patio overlooking the hills.
TAVARNELLE VAL DE PESA
Osteria La Gramola
Via delle Fonti, 1 (Off Via Roma)
055-8050321
Nice place where local families, lone businessmen, and travelers are made welcome. Large dining room decorated with farm tools, and a small patio with an entertaining view of small town street life. I had a primi of tagliatelle with truffles that was wonderful, but even better was my husband's pumpkin ravioli with truffle sauce. Roast rabbit with rosemary, sauteed spinach, and grilled fish were very tasty. Desserts here are worth making room for- we had a pear cake that was amazing. The wine list is extensive, with pages for many local wineries. Prices very fair.
Ristorante La Fattoria
Via del Cerro 11
On main road from Tavarnelle exit off Autosdrada, going up to Tavarnelle. Hamlet called Romita
This seems to be the place where local families go for Saturday lunch. Very rich ragu on penne the kids loved, and wonderful stew of wild boar with mushrooms. A delicious platter of mixed antipasto had fried sage leaves, polenta, 2 spreads for crostini, and several salamis. Prices a bit high, but it's a very pleasant place.
MARCIALLA- near Tavarnelle Val De Pesa
Trattoria Il Frantoio
Via G. Matteotti, 33
055-8074244
Closed Monday
Simple trattoria where Mom is in the kitchen, Dad and daughters run the dining room. Great trattoria food like ribollita, crostini, pastas, grilled and stewed meats and vegetables. Very inexpensive.
La Taverna
All the usual Tuscan dishes, very well done. Tiny place, friendly waiters.
VOLTERRA
Ristorante Etruria
Piazza Dei Priori
Right on the main piazza in Volterra, so convenient. Shaded patio where you can people watch and admire the buildings. The food was quite good, although getting the check took 5 requests.
PIAZZA
Osteria alla Piazza
Off the S222
Another one of Pauline's picks. I'll second this one wholeheartedly! Fresh takes on Tuscan staples, some different twists, some perfect renditions of the favorites. Lovely patio. And- they're very kind to children who withstand long lunches.
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| Posts: 8241 | Location: Newton (outside Boston), MA | Registered: 17 June 2001 | |
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Traveler
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Greetings. I feel I must inform you about Badia a Coltibuono, where we had an absolutely TERRIBLE dinner last year. So bad that I had to send food back, as it was inedible, and there was nothing else appealing on the menu. I did e-mail the chef, who said he was out that night, etc., etc., but I felt that a restaurant of this reknown should have had better food. I can't recommend that anyone go here.
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| Posts: 68 | Location: Boston, MA | Registered: 25 July 2001 | |
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Traveler
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Pauline - yes, please include my comments. You're right, it's a very beautiful place, up on the mountain top. The restaurant itself was lovely, and they did deduct what I sent back from the bill. Still, it left a bad taste in our mouths. I should also tell you that the menu which they post on the web is nothing like what you find when you get to the restaurant.
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| Posts: 68 | Location: Boston, MA | Registered: 25 July 2001 | |
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Slow Traveler
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Sorry in advance for the length (what gluttony!), but here it is...
I need to write a bit of a disclaimer to better explain our choices. In some cases, we were with more than 10 people (I still need to finish my rental reviews) and we needed to have a verifiable plan while there. Fortunately I had the May 2000 Bon Appetit, and 15 May 2000 Wine Spectator, cross-referencing with the Food Lover's Companion to Tuscany. I put post-its all over the map after choosing the places that sounded promising, and THEN planned our days based on where I wanted to eat. Through phone or fax we had reservations at most of them. I have already made mention of some of these places in earlier posts. I had truffles and/or porcini whenever I could. For fresh whole truffles, black and white, the best were at Baroni Alimentari in the Mercato Centrale in Florence.
PULCIANESE, Ville di Corsano (5 minutes west) - Sunday lunch for a large extended family and a perfect choice. Crostini and bruchetta, lasagne, pasta with wild boar sauce, grilled meats (rabbit, guinea hen, wild boar, ribs) and then huge bowls of arugula and watercress salad - all served family style. Outrageous amount of well prepared food. Highly recommended. Fall 2000
CANE e GATTO, Siena, via Pagliaresi - On par with any world class restaurant for service, presentation and food, seating just 24. There is no menu. After being seated we were served a glass of prosecco; soon the food began to arrive and it didn't stop for nearly 3 hours. The antipasti were a nice selection of melon, proscuitto, caprese, and crostini. The following courses are a soup (squash), risotto, pasta, meat (seared, rare Fiorentina), salad and finally an artfully arranged plate of dessert with sweets and fruit. Fall 2000
LA LOGGE, Siena - Wonderful for both lunch and dinner. Mirko, who seems to be the maitre-d, helps you to choose courses and wine. Try the salad with celery, pears and pecorino, and fresh tagliolini with truffles. 2000/spring 2001
LA MANDRAGOLA, San Gimignano, via Berignano, 0577 942110- The only place open on Monday, but quite nice. Attractive and welcoming with a vast menu of classic Tuscan dishes. With 18 people we tried just about everything and all were pleased, especially with the pasta and truffles. $27 pp. Fall 2000
ANTICA TRATTORIA SOSTA del PAPA, Barberino Val D'Elsa -- Moderately priced, small and cozy. They too accommodated our crowd, but I'd pass on this one. Fall 2000
RISTORANTE CARLONI, Gaoile in Chianti, via G. Puccini, 0577 749549 - Nice atmosphere, good service. Other than another table teasing my husband about drinking beer instead of wine, I don't really remember the food. Fall 2000
BAR CATENE, Origa - Our villa owner made this reservation and chose the menu with our blessing. She also showed us the way earlier in the day. It is in a tiny town we would not have found otherwise. Worth the find, though. We were served soup, pasta, Chianina beef (which they presented to us before cooking), grilled vegetables, and dessert. After each course we were offered more and to their surprise had seconds of beef and veggies. Fall 2000
LA GROTTA, San Biagio, 0578 757479 - Many people's favorite. We had a dinner reservation, but stopped in to change it to lunch, which they gladly did. The rooms are beautiful with arched, bricked ceilings lending a pink glow to the room. The big hit was a special of raw porcini salad dressed with lemon and Il Frantoio di Montepulciano olive oil. Yum. My primi was eggs with white truffles. The gnocchi with rabbit sauce was good as were the ravioli. $25 pp. Fall 2000
PICCOLO MONDO, Follonica, lungomare Carducci, 0566 40361 - Chosen by a local friend, I'm presuming for the location and view. It is nearly in the water and was a beautiful day. The fun part for some was the antipasti buffet and fresh seafood. I thought it was greasy and salty and the most touristy- feeling place we went to. The fun came at the end of the meal when we were served 10 whole desserts from which we served ourselves. This was one of our more pricey meals likely because of the dolci. I'd suggest driving further up the coast and go to Gambero Rosso! Fall 2000. Or try……..
SASSA SCRITO, Livorno - On the coast set in the rocks with beautiful views, but a more local feeling place with a smell of the sea both inside and out. Seafood is featured; a big bowl in a tangy red sauce of shellfish and other unidentified fish swimming only an hour ago! Fall 2000
LA MORA, Ponte a Moriano (near Lucca), via Sesto di Moriano, 0583 406402 - Anniversary lunch for 2. They were rather snooty when we arrived until they heard we had a reservation (which they never looked at). It is a very elegant, rather hushed place, with a beautiful, all-windowed dining terrace. The food is not uppity, though. Chicken under a brick was perfectly cooked and moist (must try this), antipasto mista della mora is a large selection including fried polenta topped with porcini; the soup with spelt and borlotti beans, and seafood choices are hearty and delicious. The staff had become friendlier towards the end of the meal and gladly gave me a menu (which I always request). $45 pp. Fall 2000
RISTORANTE da BRUNO (Frediani), Ponte a Serraglio, 0583 805215- This place is rustic and quaint near Bagni di Lucca. It was nearly empty for lunch. The owner spent some time with us and proudly displayed a huge raw porcini before it was cooked and served with our homemade pasta. We also enjoyed veal with truffles and a large salad to follow. Fall 2000.
ROMANO, Viareggio, via Mazzini 122, 0584 31382 - On a cool rainy evening we were the first to be seated. This was often the case as we'd arrive by 8 and it wasn't til 9 that the lights would dim and other patrons would arrive. Until I understood this I would wonder if we had chosen a good place at all! It was advantageous as we were large groups and needed some help with the menu. It was here that I was brought a stool for my handbag and umbrella. This was also the only place we were able to order al a carte and also the menu degustazione del giorno. This makes the timing tricky as there are more courses in the degustazione. Romano made it seem easy. I don't recall all the tastes - the stuffed calamari were good as were the grilled shrimp and red mullet. Someone raved about the ravioli stuffed with lobster in a pink sauce. The best seafood I had in Italy. Fall 2000
BUCA di SANT'ANTONIO, Lucca, via della Crevia, 0583 55881 - Although I cannot heartily recommend this place I would suggest it for dinner rather than lunch. Some of us liked it more than others, but the atmosphere does seem more evening. The polenta with porcini was dry, the fried lamb cutlets and porcini were, well, fried and way too long. Rabbit stew with porcini were acceptable and the carpaccio with lemon and arugula was enjoyed. Even now, looking at the menu - I'd pass. Fall 2000
TAVERNA KOSTAS, Pisa, via del Borghetto, 0505 71467 - What a pleasant surprise, even though the FLC to Tuscany raves. Yes, they serve Greek and Italian food and we had a little of each in a casual room with a limited wine list. The grilled calamari (my friend Moira still raves about this) was lightly dressed in oil and lemon, and the squid ink pasta with clams, mussels, assorted fish, shrimp, fresh tomatoes and olive oil inspired me to order a second plate. Very friendly local-feeling place. Fall 2000
IL TRATTORIA ETRUSCA, Orvieto, via Maitani, 0763 344016 - For me Italy, in general, and Tuscany and Umbria in particular are about tender greens, often arugula, homemade pasta and fall or spring truffles. (Add a porcini in fall and fava beans in spring!) So, that's what I had over and over again. Here the truffles were made a production of, sliced on a cart tableside. This was the first place we saw agretti - a green that looks like grass, tangy and tender when sautéed. This is also the only place that wouldn't give me a menu. In fact they made me feel like a spy. It is a perfect stop on the way to one's villa rental after arriving early in Rome. Spring 2001
LA CANTONIERI di VESCINE, towards Radda in Chianti - They had just opened for the season (March) and it was quiet. I think it's geared towards the tourist, as the menu is in Italian, English and German. It had just been printed and we had a few laughs from the translations: "goose smoked chest" and "potato flan with turkey cock"! Our server, Tania, was very knowledgeable about wine and we talked a long time about all sorts of Italian wines and olive oils. Here again, I had black truffles with the 'chest' on tagliatelle. They had a good, well-balanced ribollita and rabbit sauce on pasta. It was a long, enjoyable evening and we stopped by the next day to pick up a bottle of Tania's grandfather's olive oil from Sicily. Nice place, well-rounded menu. Spring 2001
ARNOLFO, Colle di Val d'Elsa, via xx Settembre 52, 0577 920549- This was, by far, my first choice since the trip before and it exceeded my expectations. When we sat down we were the only ones in the place (that 8 pm dinner again) and within 2 minutes Norm got a bad-news business call so he stepped outside to take it. Giovanni, who runs the house, was very considerate about this interruption. He did bring the little appetizer tastes, but waited for Norm to return before approaching us any further. These first bites were lardo in a tender flaky biscuit (who knew lard could taste so good?), gougeres, smoked salmon, and seared tuna on a bit of greens in a puff pastry shell. Yum. I'd suggest you order from the specials; the red mullet was filleted tableside, the mixed lamb grill was melt-in-your-mouth. I remember a couple of pastas and I remember trying not to eat every bite, but it was impossible. We had a most wonderful all-Italian cheese course and no desserts. This is where I learned my new food obsession - fig preserves with the cheese. Can you tell we enjoyed it? It was pricy, about $100 pp, but we did splurge on some Sassicaia. Surprisingly the Badia a Passignano Riserva was better at 2/3 the price. Spring 2001
LA TORRE, Castellina in Chianti - Good service, half bottles of wine and pasta with rabbit sauce, and wild boar stew. Along with a lightly dressed salad, it's a nice way to spend a couple hours in the afternoon. Spring 2001
LA PERGOLA, Rome, Hotel Cavaliere Hilton, 06 35091 -- So what if the chef is German, cooking is cooking. And it's very special cooking that you'll find here. Settle in for an evening's entertainment - the service is exemplary and unobtrusive (although at one point 2 servers poured 1 glass of wine!) and the place rather hushed, but it's still welcoming. We had a reservation, but walked by as they were turning someone away who didn't, even though they had tables open. Maybe it was because he said, "do you know who I am?" The fun food here has to be the emulsified/foamed salad in a tall cordial glass with a spray of chives hanging over the edge - no spoons please. There were some wonderful little tastes to start; tamarinds, sformato (filo parcel) filled with a lobster claw. 2 (as required) had the rombo/brill baked in a salt crust and filleted tableside. No dessert, but plenty of cheese (tableside cheese cart), this time served with honey and a bunch of fresh currants. We also had a grappa, again from a cart with the most beautiful bottles on display. The view over all of Rome is stunning and in the summer it must be glorious to eat outside - we just took photos. PS - jackets required. Over $100 pp. Spring 2001.
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| Posts: 370 | Location: Santarcangelo di Romagna, Italy | Registered: 08 July 2001 | |
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Moderator
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Thanks so much (again), Karen, for all of that. Now that I've read your comments....... Some interesting observations there. I had in mind to possibly go to Il Buca di San Antonio and am now thinking twice...... Thanks. And Arnolfo also caught my eye in the Wine Spectator article -- thanks for your recommendation. I think maybe we'll go there for a blow-out meal. Too bad we won't be in Rome because the other expensive idea of going to La Pergola is appealing. I especially enjoyed reading about the restaurants north of Lucca, because I expect we'll be up there a bit. I'd read about La Mora before and it's on my list..... Where is Origa? I'm not sure what you meant, though, in one reference to the Food Lovers' Companion to Tuscany when you said quote:
What a pleasant surprise, even though the FLC to Tuscany raves.
Was it a pleasant surprise because you've had negative reactions to places that Carla Capalbo's recommended before? Or maybe I'm just not following you...... I don't know if fine dining in New York is something that you do, but if you're interested in any recommendations/observations from me, I'd be more than glad to share them. Thanks again. David |
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| Posts: 4760 | Location: New York City | Registered: 15 June 2001 | |
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Slow Traveler
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Yes, David that was confusing. Let me re-phrase: Even with the description in FLC to Tuscany, Taverna Kostas still exceeded our expectations.
I was really on the fence about how to describe Buca because some people did enjoy it, I just thought there were enough reasons to give it a nay. I'd love to hear any good experiences others have had.
Just found the rest of Bar Cateni's (correct spelling) address
Bar Cateni
via dei Pratini
Origia - Sovicille (sw of Siena)
0577 342028
BTW - GIOLOTTI,Rome - on or near via Colonna Antonia, north of the Pantheon really does have the best gelato. Do not go, however if you can't choose from a large selection.
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| Posts: 370 | Location: Santarcangelo di Romagna, Italy | Registered: 08 July 2001 | |
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Founder
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I am sorry Karen, but you are wrong. San Crispino in Rome has the best gelato  . San Crispino, Via della Panetteria, 42. Between Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. Incredible Gelato. It was recommended in some guide book, but I can't remember which one. In June 2000, we paid 4,000 lire ($2.00) for a cup of 2 flavors. We have Giolitti on our Gelato List, so someone else agrees with you. http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/food/gelato_list.htm Giolitti, Via Uffici del Vicario 40, near the Piazza della Rotonda. Recommended by Kay from PA. Pauline and Steve will try this place on our their next trip! But really, it's all good!!! |
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| Posts: 26609 | Location: Santa Fe, NM | Registered: 15 June 2001 | |
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Slow Traveler
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I must defer on the gelateria choice. I don't really have a sweet tooth and only had fruit sorbettos. My friends, however, still talk about Giolitti.
I would still like to hear from someone who enjoyed Buca di Sant'Antonio. Feeling guilty, I guess.
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| Posts: 370 | Location: Santarcangelo di Romagna, Italy | Registered: 08 July 2001 | |
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Slow Traveler
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I too appreciate this list and am looking forward to trying many of these places.
David, I don't know if your offer on NY restaurants was to the masses or not, but I go to NY several times a year for work and would love to hear your recommendations. I have several favorites but need to expand my list. I can also offer places in SF or Napa/Sonoma if interested.
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| Posts: 268 | Location: San Rafael, CA | Registered: 10 July 2001 | |
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Moderator
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quote:
If I were to write up some restaurant recommendations in NY, I'd have to reformat it differently. And there ain't no time for that, at least for a few weeks.
I lied. I just emailed it to Pauline and I expect that she'll be putting it up on the site somewhere. I actually elaborated a bit on what I sent to Tom and Karen. However, I only stuck to quite expensive, upscale restaurants. Otherwise, the topic is just too broad. David |
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| Posts: 4760 | Location: New York City | Registered: 15 June 2001 | |
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Founder
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| Posts: 26609 | Location: Santa Fe, NM | Registered: 15 June 2001 | |
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