We're trying to pick a place for a special lunch on a leisurely Sunday drive from Firenze to Siena, and are overwhelmed by the sheer number of places generally recommended in this forum. (We've read Dean's list, Jane's list, etc.) For this meal we're looking for first-rate Tuscan cooking -- not the super-refined Michelin-star style, but not just simple country food either (good as that is). And a great view to go with the first-rate food would be a big plus. If you had to name just one place, which would it be?
Both have wonderful food in lovely settings, and we've had excellent meals at both places. The view from Ristoro di Lamole is amazing, but it's more out of the way (a somewhat challenging drive) while the other is closer to the Chiantigiana.
Posts: 766 | Location: Virginia (but still missing Naples!) | Registered: 05 October 2005
I have not eaten there in a few years but La Cantinetta di Rignana http://www.lacantinettadirignana.it/ would suit the bill perfectly. You can get to it from the s222 at Greve in the direction of Montefiorale - Badia Passigano.
Peace
Posts: 147 | Location: New York | Registered: 10 March 2005
Il Pestello is on the 429 between Castellina and Poggibonsi. Great grilled foods, nice traditional primi & antipasti. Outdoor patio in god weather. Also you will pass Antica Delizie in Castellina on your way back to the Chiantigiana
I'd like to add to the pot so to speak Osteria Il Tinello, Via IV Novembre 102 , Phone: 0577.742835, just outside Castellina. The link above leads to a review. Il Tinello was also the site of a Slow Travel GTG, the locale chosen by Christina, if I remember correctly.
My first thought was La Cantinetta di Rignana; however, since you are doing this when you are driving from Florence to Siena, I think a place that is easier to get to and really not far off the Chiantigiana would be better in terms of time. So...I would recommend either Ristoro di Lamole or La Castellena right outside of Montefioralle. La Castellena is very good, traditional Tuscan food. The outside seating is right alongside a beautiful vista. Actually, it has family connections with La Cantinetta. For some reason their website is not working right now, but the phone number is on my list. We took visiting friends here on several occasions and it was always enjoyed by them.
Also, as Kevin has said, Osteria alla Piazza is outstanding.
If you stop at Le Cantine in Greve-in-Chianti to taste some wine, try some more at Enoteca Fuoripiazza. Small place, straightforward Tuscan food.
Nobody has mentioned Dario Cecchini's 2 restaurants, Solociccia and Officina della Bisstecca, in Panzano, which I consider very Tuscan. If you're looking for the legendary bisstecca Fiorentina, try Dario's bisstecca Panzarese at Officina della Bifsteka
Badia a Coltibuono near Gaiole has wonderful food, but it is more expensive and fancy.
Posts: 231 | Location: New Jersey, USA | Registered: 16 September 2007
Jan is right. Il Vescovino in Panzano would be a good choice. It would be right on the way. The inside seating is very upscale and the outside has beautiful views. This is not typical Tuscan food--there is always a twist and upscale quality. The owners are delightful--he is Italian and she is Swiss.
Dario's places are unusual dining experiences but they probably take longer than you have considering your itinerary for the day. They are open for lunch on Sunday.
Phone numbers and websute for these places are on my list except Il Vescovino does not have a site.
Really, you can't go wrong with any of these places. Of course, that was your dilemma in the first place--to many places from which to choose.
To help you with that: Lamole La Castellana Il Vescovina Osteria alla Piazza
I was afraid of this -- so many outstanding possibilities! I see only one easy way out: Dario's Officina della Bistecca, because of its uniqueness. (SoloCiccia we regretfully put aside because there are only two of us and we're not fans of communal dining.) With 16 days in Tuscany and Umbria, we'll eat in plenty of the more typical places, even if not all so beautifully situated. Sigh.
Jane -- The drive will be the Sunday after next, 4 May. But why do you think time might be too short for Dario?
New thought: Dario's website says no corkage at the Officina on wine from outside. We hadn't planned on multiple winery stops, mainly want to enjoy the scenery and the towns. But surely a brief stop (or two) for a quick taste and to pick up a bottle for lunch wouldn't hurt, right? So our question is:
Any suggestions for wineries with tasting rooms open on Sunday morning, not too far off route, and that won't ask us to take a lengthy tour of the facilities?
Yes, go to Le Cantine in Greve--below the COOP. It is a great stopping place to taste and buy. You buy a card for whatever amount you want and then use it to taste what you choose. Different wines debit different amounts from your card. This is the best way to wine taste as most wineries do not offer tasting.
As far as not enough time--the Officine delle Bistecca should be fine. Solo Ciccia takes longer as it is several courses and part of the experience is the communal fun. Depending what time you leave Firenze and what time you need to be in Siena, you would even have time for that--except, if you stop at Le Cantine you will use up time there. Plus, you may wander the piazza in Greve but things will be closed Sunday morning.
Jane's latest post appeared just as I was beginning to obsess about travel times. We plan (hope) to leave Firenze Sunday morning by 9:30-10:00 a.m., and have no target arrival time for Siena, just sometime before dinner (assuming we could manage another meal).
But I have no idea how long it takes to drive, say, 10 km on these roads. Looking at the map, I've begun to wonder whether we won't find ourselves in Panzano way too early for lunch, and whether we wouldn't be better off waiting until Radda/Gaiole for lunch. If so, what would any of you nominate as first choice, and does anyone have a current take on Badia a Coltibuono, which seems to have had its ups and downs over the years?
It's heartwarming to have so many enthusiastic advisors on this. I certainly will post a full report on our experiences when we return.
If you leave Florence at 10 am, you should be in Greve around 11 am or a little earlier depending on how confident you are of your route. Then if you go to Le Cantine, which I think you would enjoy, you will probably leave there sometime around 11:45 to 12:00. Then Panzano is 10 minutes from Greve. Badia a Coltibuono is out of the way--but good. What you could do if that is too early for lunch is to go through Panzano and head down following the signs to Osteria alla Piazza (not taking the turn off to Radda). You would get there at a respectable time for lunch and it is quite excellent. You would then go back down towards Castellina and continue along the Chiantigiana to Siena.
I don't know how long Sunday lunch at Officina della Bisstecca takes; officially Sunday lunch at SoloCiccia takes 2 hours, but it was closer to 3 for us because there are 5 or 6 courses and then we sat talking to the people we met at the communal table and nobody rushed us out. The restaurant at Badia a Coltibuono has no set starting time, while Dario's restaurants don't open until 1:00 and everybody is served at the same time, more or less, in the 4 or 5 dining rooms on either side of the street.
We enjoyed lunch at Badia a Coltibuono in October. Then we took the short talking tour of the abbey gardens to digest. It's a very different experience from either of Dario's restaurants.
Posts: 231 | Location: New Jersey, USA | Registered: 16 September 2007
The officina is also communal dining so forget Dario if you don't like that!
I prefer Solociccia for the more varied menu, not three kinds of steak!
although I have met the most facinating people at both! last time I was at the Officina it was all restaurant owners, wine makers, hotel owners, and oil makers! make the best new friends at Dario's!
for dining alone, something more special is Vescovino on the hill for the view. A little fancier food, great wines.
The terrace at Oltre il giardino is nice too.
you can stop by dario's to check out the scene.. and then go on. There is a fabulous wine shop just down the main road which has an incredible selection as well as a smaller selection at Enoteca Baldi in the piazza.
We just had dinner at Solociccia (I am working on my trip report) and in my humble opinion, you should overcome your dislike of communal dinning and eat there. You will never find a better quality to value anywhere in Italy. Panzano is delightful. Sunday is market day. You can have a leisurely stroll, enjoy the views of the country. Just chill. The only real decision is Solociccia or the Officina. Having only eaten at Solociccia I give it the highest marks.
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