The past six times to Italy I have concentrated on the major cities. It suddenly dawned on me that with all those visits I have yet to see the sea!!! My briney soul now wants water water water. I have always gone through Expedia for trips but they had nothing in Portovenere for the days I want. I got a good price at the Grand Hotel Portovenere with a good flight on Lufthansa but it will be the first time that I am going to have to get from point A to B with a bit of orchestrating. If we fly into Pisa how far away is the train to La Spezia? I have heard all about the bus but is there a taxi to Portovenere and if so who much would it cost? Also would going the week before make that much difference as far as restaurants and ferries? Is hiking and just meandering still doable this time of year? The weather, if last year is any indication, is up to the Powers That Be; what used to be is no longer and seasons are almost a thing of the past.
I have had a couple of good experiences at Grand Hotel Portovenere. If you can swing the sea view balcony room it is well worth the surcharge. The hotel restaurant is good too if you order off the alla carte menu. To take the train from Pisa airport you would first need to take the frequent train to Pisa Centrale and then on to la Spezia. Will not be difficult. A cab is probably your best bet from the station in la Spezia. It is between a 20 minute and 1/2 hour drive to Portovenere. I can only estimate, but I would guess the cab would be about 50 euro given the distance. The hotel has a reasonably priced parking garage so you might want to compare the cost of a rental car - certainly more convenient and the drive is very easy and pleasant.
We stayed at the Grand Hotel in Portovenere a few years ago during the week of Oct 15th. It was close to the end of the season and the hotel was very quiet. The hotel itself is nice (not amazing luxury but solidly good) and the view from the rooms with balconies is unbelievably gorgeous and peaceful. One or two of the restaurants in town closed the week we were there, but there were still options for meals. You could check with the hotel to see when things start to close. My guess is that your time frame is perfectly fine. You could also ask them about the taxi cost to/from La Spezia. As I recall, they were very helpful at the frontdesk.
The weather for us was perfect. Not warm enough for swimming, but perfect for walking.
I recall that the "reasonably priced parking garage" that Matt mentioned was actually pricey compared to other hotels. There is no long-term legal parking there, so the garage is the only option. Still, having a car would not be necessary during your stay, so whatever it cost to get there would likely not exceed the cost of the car rental and the parking.
Sorry I can't weigh in more on the transportation aspect as we had a car.
Portovenere is a wonderful place. I think you'll satisfy your water craving fabulously!
Posts: 123 | Location: Connecticut | Registered: 18 November 2006
You will love Portovenere (my very biased favorite place in Italy).
For that long a stay I would recommend a car. If you do not use the parking structure under the hotel (which is about 15 Euros per day), you can buy a weekly pass for the CAVO parking lot. I don't know the price off hand, but it is much less than the parking lot in town. CAVO is located at the top of the hill just before you enter PV. It's a 20 minute walk or so, but there is also a "giro bus" which circles the village and drops you off right at the parking area. You won't need a car in the village itself and you can also you the ferry service for the CT and Lerici and the bus for La Spezia, but if you want a little more freedom to explore (such as Carrara, Montemarcello National Park, etc.), the car is a very good idea and the CAVO lot makes sense.
If you decide against a car, the bus in and out of La Spezia is not from the train station but from Via Garibaldi. HERE is a map. The ride is about 25 minutes back and forth (and then a 10 minute walk to the train station). Bus run about every 20 minutes throughout the day. Just plan on that "extra time" if you decide to travel by train. But I would still suggest that you take a cab from the train station to PV upon arrival with all of your bags.
There is no long-term legal parking there, so the garage is the only option. Still, having a car would not be necessary during your stay, so whatever it cost to get there would likely not exceed the cost of the car rental and the parking. 
