Slow Travel Talk  Hop To Forum Categories  TRAVEL  Hop To Forums  Italy    3 months in Panicale without a car

Moderators: Amy, Doru, Jonathan, Kim, Roz

Closed Topic Closed
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
  Login/Join 
New Member
Posted
Hi my wife and I are intending to spend 3mths in Panicale. Following ideas from Bill Thayer for 'real slow' travel we want to experience Italy rather than tour and tick. We are wondering how much of a problem it is going to be to get out and see a few things without a car. We are very fit (but not young) and enjoy walking and biking so we can go reasonable distances. How easy is it to get taxis buses in these parts?
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 04 May 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Traveler
Posted Hide Post
Please check out Stew's blog and website www.seeyouinitaly.com Stew, bought an old house in Panicale and worked with a local to renovate the entire home over a couple of years. He lives directly in the city part-time and I believe he has just departed back to his home in the mid west United States as of May 1st 2005. I have enjoyed reading his blog and recomendations for the town. I know that you will have a difficult time finding a better resource and information regarding Panicale and it's surrounding area. Good luck and have fun -you are a very lucky couple!!
 
Posts: 28 | Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada and London UK. | Registered: 13 March 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
It sounds like something from Dante's "Inferno" to me. In other words, it wouldn't suit me. Panicale is on a big big hill! Bikes would be close to impossible, buses may be rare, and Panicale itself doesn't really have much to amuse me for 3 months, although Pacciano is relatively close and has some things like a book shop etc. When you hire a taxi you usually have to pay both ways so he can return home on your euro. It can add up. It cost me 25 euro to get to my house from the bus stop, a distance of 9 km. If you are a regular user, you may be able to make a deal with the local guy. I'll be surprised if there is more than one.
 
Posts: 2774 | Location: Umbria | Registered: 13 September 2001Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
Where is Panicale? How did you choose it?
It would be much easier to stay in a larger town without a car or even a city.Did you choose this location considering a rural vacation as your primary goal? RR
 
Posts: 6522 | Location: Culver City, CA, USA | Registered: 08 November 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
Goodness, I have pupils....

Flattery will get you everywhere, David — except in and out of Panicale without a car. Panicale's a pretty little town, as is Paciano 3 km away; but they're not on a rail line, and rail is the backbone of carfree travel.

There is bus service mind you, with APM. APM's website is a bit difficult to navigate, so here's the map of their bus system; to see detail, follow their instructions and drag the orange rectangle to Panicale (far left of the map, not immediately adjacent to the lake, but somewhat below it). I've been unable to find the actual schedules to Panicale, since Linee Urbane ed Extraurbane sends you to Linee Extraurbane sends you back to the first one: notice there's no link at the operative point, "Consultazione orari on-line". Anyway, there's a bus; and it's probably set up to get the schoolkids to and from Perugia or maybe Città della Pieve in the morning, at lunch, and in the evening.

Bus, however, is usually a poor way of getting around in Umbria, because of very limited schedules, very slow circuitous rides (milk runs to get those kids to all their hamlets), and, often, unreliability. If you can at all do it, revise your stay to put those three months in a place near a train station. Such a place need not be a large town at all: quite a few small places in Umbria have convenient train stations: Acquasparta, S. Gemini, S. Giustino, Bastia Umbra, Spello, Fossato di Vico,  etc. and even a few very small places: Baiano di Spoleto, Fratta Todina, S. Martino in Campo, etc. Several of them are attractive potential bases.

PS: Yes Panicale is on a hill, of course, since wonderful view over the lake, but I can't remember any unusual hill, rather a gradual climb; anyhoo, I'm no spring chicken either, and had no problem with the rise to Panicale. (Now Todi and Trevi are another matter!)

Bill

Gazetteer of Umbria
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
During my one night stay in Panicale I met 2 ex-pats who were very content without a car. They would take a bus to the Chiusi rail station if they wanted to visit other places. There are enough small shops in Panicale itself to keep one going, although they would also bus for shopping in Chiusi. I very much enjoyed the friendly atmosphere of the town, Aldo's bar, the bakery and the lovely views. I don't see too much difference between staying in Panicale vs staying in a place like Trevi, except that the bus ride to the train station is a bit longer.
Jeanne
 
Posts: 420 | Location: Pennsylvania, USA | Registered: 07 March 2003Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
New Member
Posted Hide Post
Thanks guys/gals the rapid response is great. Bill, I knew you would not be able to resist some input and thanks for the comments. I currently (last 5 years) live in a town that is even smaller than Panicale so town size is not a problem for me. My wife is a painter and wants time to reflect on the Italian countryside and I am looking for a chance to be Italian by being somewhere not essentially for tourist. I found the site through threads on this web site and that was the attraction. Anyone know how easy it is to pick up a couple of cheap bikes? You haven't seen hill until you see the hills round my place here, so they have to be steep before they are a problem. All comments are appreciated.
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 04 May 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
We stayed in Panicale for a week in Feb. I never saw a bus - but there must be one. I was wondering if there was an artist involved Smile. We were pretty much stuck in P due to bad weather and it was a bit boring relaxing Coffee because many things were closed for the season. But the views are very beautiful.

The approaches to the town are not that steep - I expected much worse. So with everything open and a possible bus line I'm sure it would be a wonderful time. The people there are SO kind. It's like home to us now!

Where are you staying? Aldo's Podesta Apt has a very paintable view of the countryside from its balcony.
 
Posts: 179 | Location: Near Death Valley, CA | Registered: 07 October 2004Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
I am enjoying all your replies because we will be staying in Panicale in July and while I can't add any information, I am certainly getting some tips from the rest of you. I sort of stumbled upon Panicale in my trip planning several months ago (before I found SlowTravel), liked the look of it, decided we should spend some time there and now can't wait to go!


Marcia

"The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page." Saint Augustine
Happy Trails to Us: My Reluctant Blog
 
Posts: 2676 | Location: Pasadena area, California | Registered: 06 April 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
Good for hills, good for painting, and if you don't mind adjusting your forays into the outside world to what will be a limited bus schedule, bravo for Panicale too, I'll agree. There are music festivals, organ concerts, and the countryside, especially south and west, is beautiful.

(Bravo too for New Zealand, said by Jacques Pépin of all people to be home to the best Chardonnay in the world, although I regret he refused to name the vintage on his show, possibly because of a sponsorship conflict.)

I think you guys are even slower travelers than I am. I'm sort of a sheep in slow-traveler clothing: I stay a long time but in fact use Home Base to fan out from, vacuuming up information from all around, sometimes quite far afield: so I need a train station — but you do not, if you mean to take it very slow and paint and bike with only the occasional excursion.
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Favourite Bootlegger
Posted Hide Post
I very much enjoyed Panicale as a day trip. It is a lovely little town. We stayed in Paciano for a week when we had too big a group for our regular place. We always have cars, so I am pretty ignorant of the bus situation.
Luca Cesarini, a half Swedish/half Italian, former Catholic priest now Luthern minister. has written a very biased yet interesting guide book in praise of his hometown, Panicale.
"Panicale, A Little Part of Italy"
Printed by Guerra Edizioni, Perugia 1998
ISBN 88-7715-288-5


Deborah Horn
In a previous life I was an Umbrian sunflower farmer. I want to do a past life regression and stay there.
-----------------------------------
www.petsburg.com
My blog: Old Shoes - New Trip
 
Posts: 5027 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: 04 September 2001Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
I forgot that I also wanted to say to Bill that it was his notes on Panicale (which I think I found through a Google search) that made me decide that we wanted to spend time there. We are also planning some days trips for wineries, pottery and maybe some jazz.


Marcia

"The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page." Saint Augustine
Happy Trails to Us: My Reluctant Blog
 
Posts: 2676 | Location: Pasadena area, California | Registered: 06 April 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
Goodness (bis).

Nobody asked, but, beating the iron while it's hot, let me throw out one more place in Umbria — not to influence David, whose mind is correctly made up — but for lurkers and future travelers, since absolutely no one onboard other'n me has mentioned the place, yet it's a very beautiful little town in wonderful landscape, and after all most of you travel by car, so as a base one place is as good as another: Monteleone di Spoleto. My 3‑day walk from Leonessa to Cerreto di Spoleto last year was one of the great walks of my life, and the area has the additional advantage of not being at all expensive.
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Traveler
Posted Hide Post
Panicale is definately a place to get the true Italian experience. However, getting around in Umbria without a car is extremely difficult. We found that even with a car, it took significant time to get to neighboring towns.

Our rental in Panicale was at the very top of town, and I respectfully disagree with the earlier posting saying the town is not steep. An account of our stay there can be found at this site: www.e-margaux.com/en/story/easter-in-umbria
 
Posts: 17 | Registered: 13 August 2004Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Slow Traveler
Posted Hide Post
Thanks Nancy for another good resource; you're now linked at the bottom of my Panicale page.

B
 
Posts: 4550 | Registered: 06 January 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
 Previous Topic | Next Topic powered by eve community  

Closed Topic Closed

    Slow Travel Talk  Hop To Forum Categories  TRAVEL  Hop To Forums  Italy    3 months in Panicale without a car

© SlowTrav.com 2000 - 2008