I'm heading to Fano May 11 - 19 to get our new place furnished. One day, at least, will be a trip to the IKEA in Bologna, since the store in Ancona won't be open until late summer.
Question.
I've never been to Modena (except to zip through). Can anyone recommend how to structure a half day or so there? Of course, we love balsamic, so maybe a visit to an "aceteria"?
Anyone done it? Thoughts?
Thanks! Mille grazie!
[title edited to be more descriptive]
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Colleen,
Lucky you! I have sent a lot of time there in the past, but my last visit was 5 years ago when my sister and I detoured to stop in for 2 nights to see my son, Giancarlo, who was staying there with the Aunts who live in the center of town. The Cathedral is what I love most, it dominates the town. It’s about a thousand years old, unpretentious but splendid. You can go up the bell tower. Straight across (just a few metres) from the front door, so close you can almost touch it, is the apartment building my husband was raised in before his family moved to Australia. Giancarlo is named after the Aunt’s little brother who died in the war when a wall of the Cathedral fell on him in a bombing attack right outside their apartment. Every afternoon around 5pm there is a great passiegata in the center of town and the military cadets (my father in law was one molti anni fa) look splendid in their uniforms. The ducal palace which is now their academy is well worth a look. Luciano Pavarotti was born there and when we went for Christmas twice, in the late 80s, the Aunts went to midnight mass where he sang. We had small children when I used to stay and there are lots of parks with activities for them. I really liked the Ferrari showroom - not a factory, just a showroom. I wonder if that is still there? Lots of good places to eat, I didn’t keep travel journals back then so don’t have any names. There are “glossy” bars, one of the most popular is the Molinari, and good stores - my Louisa Spagnoli sweater was bought there as a Christmas present one year from Zia Nena and Zia Didi. I always found it bustling and busy. The Modenese have a lot of pride in themselves and their region - but what region in Italy doesn’t? How funny that it’s the place in Italy where I have spent the most time. I still have that expensive bottle of balsamic vinegar.
A fascinating little insight into the human side of Modena. Anecdotes like this bring impersonal cities/places alive.
I haven't been to Modena but after reading Persia's little note, I'd love to.
A Luisa Spagnoli outfit still hangs in my wardrobe, not worn any more because skirts way above the knee just don't suit me now - but it's there as a reminder of browsing her shop and factory in Perugia! Thank you.
Marco when I think of Modena the first thing that comes to mind is food! And not only aceto balsamico! Modena is at least as good for eating great cucina emiliana as any other place in the area! Sorry for asking here... may I ask how you choose Fano?
No need to be sorry ... I'm glad to share our reasons for choosing Fano.
My best friend (now a Canadian) was born there. After visting many places in Italy, it seemed to be the best all-around choice for us. We have spent our summer holidays there on and off since 1996. Tuscany was beautiful, but troppo caro. My wife has a love affair with water; especially the sea. We wanted somewhere relatively undiscovered, because we prefer to try to blend in rather than stick out. Because English is not prevalent there, it forced me to learn the language, which opened up even more doors. Finally, as we started to talk about it every summer on the beach, we had more and more of our Fanese (and Umbrian) friends cheering us on. Then, we found the apartment of our dreams last summer (65 square meters with a 60 square meter terrace!) and we felt God was smiling upon us.
On top of all this, we find the food in Le Marche magnificent, and the market in Fano allows for both the freshest meats and vegetables as well as fresh seafood. We both like to cook, so it's a fight for who goes to the market to set the day's menu!
Marco, I think that Fano is a very pretty little town and I really like the whole area . My family also choose Northern Le Marche 25 years ago (we lived in Milan!) so it sounds like a very reasonable choiche to me! I was just wondering how you discovered Fano that is a pretty unknown place in a very unknown area! Where about is your apartment in Fano? Unluckily when I'm in the area I have very little time to visit, shop etc. and I have to admit that I usually end up in Pesaro (as I usually take some administrative trip to Pesaro as an excuse to take a stroll). I will not be in Urbino during your next trip but I'd love to see you for a mini GTG sometimes!
In Modena you must have lunch at Osteria Giusti. Must have reservations!
The name Giusti (relations?) marks also one of the most notable, if not THE most notable, aceteria.. The Osteria sells Balsamico as well.
I wrote a few lines about Giusti's in this thread. I should have written more, because it is a unique experience, gastronomically speaking, and as a unique locale. I will write some more when I retire...
Marco - as Persia indicated, the Cathedral in Modena is well worth a visit - very old and structurally interesting. The museum next door is also one of the best I have visited in Italy. For a balsamico tour, I recommend Acetaia Malphigi, which is about 5km SE of Modena. Take Via Vignolese then left onto Via Barca and the Acetaia is on the right. After the tour they offer a tasting of their products including a chocolate with a balsamic filling. Before you turn onto Via Barca you will also pass their restaurant on the left. Although it was recommended to us, we couldn't stop for lack of time. You can go to their website at www.acetaiamalpighi.it for more information. When in Modena, be sure to buy a bottle of Nocino di Modena at Antica Pasticceria at Via Emilia, 75 to enjoy later at home. Baroloman
Posts: 54 | Location: Silver Spring, MD USA | Registered: 10 June 2003
An hour walking through the mercato coperto is fun as well. I enjoy looking at the displays of vegatables, fruits, and meats as much as eating them. My favorite sign there "conosciamo notri polli" -- this at the height of the avian flu pandemic scare last fall-
Posts: 196 | Location: Alexandria, Virginia | Registered: 09 May 2005
Topic Closed
what region in Italy doesn’t?
food! And not only aceto balsamico! Modena is at least as good for eating great cucina emiliana as any other place in the area!
. My family also choose Northern Le Marche 25 years ago (we lived in Milan!) so it sounds like a very reasonable choiche to me! I was just wondering how you discovered Fano that is a pretty unknown place in a very unknown area!
