I know that an Ombra is a small glass of wine served in bacari usually with cichetti, but how do you order one? Do you actually order "Ombra bianco per favore"? If I order 'un bicchiere vino bianco' do I get a larger glass?

Another thing I've never tried is cafe corretto. Is grappa the standard accompaniment if you order "cafe corretto"? And does it come as a separate shot?

BTW, please don't get the impression I intend to spend my whole time in Venice knocking down wine and spirits -- but it seems to be part of the experience

You'll have to hunt down the classic "ombra" these days: it's been roundly replaced by the more abundant enoteca serving, I'm afraid.

However, if you head for, say, la Vedova, you can just order vino bianco, and it will come in the classic ombra-sized "pallina," the little round wine glass, and cost a pittance. Best polpette in the city, except maybe for la Botte.

The word ombra is much more often used as a proposition to your companions: Ci beviamo un'ombra?" To which your companions will certainly reply, "Sì, come no?" (and will likely following by the subsequent, "intanto non dobbiamo guidare," or, "it's non like we have to drive anywhere."

Your caffè will come corretto...with the grappa in it...if you order it that way.