Here's how to get to both the Piscina Mirabilis and the Cento Camerelle in Bacoli, from Naples:

Take the SEPSA bus from Piazza Garibaldi in Naples all the way to Bacoli (no changes). You can also board the bus near Piazza Municipio and along the Riviera di Chiaia. It is the "Monte di Procida" bus line, and the bus is very modern and air conditioned. It operates every 30-60 minutes, daily including Sundays. The run to Bacoli takes about 60 minutes. You pass through Pozzuoli, Licola, Baia, the Castello Aragonese (Museo dei Campi Flegrei), and finally end up in Bacoli. From the bus stop in Bacoli, you can walk to the archeological sites (but you'll need to ask the locals for directions). Both these sites are WELL WORTH visiting (tip the custodian, who will open the locked gates).

On the way back, hop off the bus at the Castello Aragonese to visit the museum. It's a wonderful venue, the archeological displays are elegant and understated, and there are fantastic views from the Castle's ramparts of the Baia di Pozzuoli all the way to Nisida, and of the town of Baia below. On a clear day, you may be able to catch a glimpse of the Roman ruins in the shallow waters off Baia. You can also hop off the same bus at Baia to visit the archeological zone there (and see Robert Paget's discovery of the entrance to Hades, described in his book "The Twin Gates of Sleep," which will be very familiar to readers of Book VI of the Aeneid).

Finally, if you still have stamina, you can hop off the bus directly in front of the entrance to the Solfatara di Pozzuoli, before returning to Naples.

You should purchase a DAY TICKET ("Unico Campania, Fascia 2") for 3.50 Euros, which allows you to hop on and off at will. On weekends (costs 2.80 Euros), it is valid for 24 hours, but from Monday thru Friday, it's valid only from 10 a.m. to midnight. BTW, this ticket is ALSO valid on the Circumflegrea and Ferrovia Cumana light rail lines, also operated by SEPSA from the Stazione Cumana/Montesanto subway station in Central Naples. These trains also run daily including Sundays.

TIP: Do this trip on Saturday with the weekend day ticket. You can get a very early morning start. I find that 10 a.m. is a bit late to start such a tiring day trip.

NOTE: The Naples to Bacoli bus line is more convenient to visit Baia and Bacoli, whereas the light rail is more convenient to visit Pozzuoli proper. There is also a Naples city bus, no. 152, which travels between Naples and Pozzuoli, but not beyond. The "Fascia 2" day ticket is also valid on this Naples city bus.

NOTE: From Bacoli, there is a SEPSA local bus line every 60 minutes which takes you to the entrance to the Cumae Archeological area. Tell the driver that you want to get off at the "Scavi di Cuma". From the bus stop at the cafe-bar along the main road, it's a walk of about 400 yards along a narrower road to reach the ticket office. Cumae is the most fantastic and memorable archeological site in the Phlegrean Fields, but that's another story ......

WARNING: This local line from Bacoli to Cumae does NOT run on Sundays. However, there is local bus service (non-SEPSA) between Pozzuoli and Cumae every 60 minutes (120 minutes on Sundays). This other local bus travels along a road which passes over the beautiful LAGO d'AVERNO (you will see it in its entirety), right past the iron-gated entrance to the GROTTA DI COCCEO which connected Cumae with Lago d'Averno and Licola during the reign of Augustus (you'll need to stand on the bus to catch a VERY quick glimpse), and directly under the Roman ARCO FELICE before dropping you at the main entrance to Cumae. A very, very memorable bus ride.

TIP: I highly recommend visiting all these sites: Cento Camerelle, Piscina Mirabilis, Castello Aragonese, Scavi di Baia, Scavi di Cuma, Lago d'Averno, Pozzuoli (Tempio di Serapide and Amfiteatro Romano), Solfatara. Budget two full days to see everything.

Schedules:

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Posts: 631 | Registered: 02 December 2002

Dorothy's ST anniversary prize winning photo album: Cumae, Haunt of the Sibyl

Here are some photos of the Piscina Mirabilis:


http://www.archart.it/archart/italia/campania/bacoli/pi...abilis/thumb0001.htm


Here are some photos of the Cento Camerelle:


http://www.archart.it/archart/italia/campania/bacoli/ce...amerelle/img0006.htm


Here are photos and exhaustive information on the Grotta di Cocceo at Lago d'Averno. Be aware that the tunnel has been closed for decades and is unlikely to open for many more years (I've been anxious to explore it since 1971):

http://www.comune.pozzuoli.na.it/resources/documents/Be...culturali/0083ma.htm


Here is a great photo of Lago d'Averno taken from its northern shore, looking south towards the Bay of Pozzuoli. Notice the Castello Aragonese in the background, not quite blocking Capo Miseno in the distance. The photo is taken from the road which connects Cumae to Pozzuoli (Via Domiziana, passing under the Arco Felice):

http://www.napoligold.com/coast/napolinord/paesaggio/de11099.htm

Those photos of Piscina Mirabilis look really cool. Thanks for posting them. I really want to see it now. I'll have to convince my daughter.

Remember that the Piscina Mirabilis is open by arrangement with the custodian, i.e., it's not necessarily open and available during specific hours. As noted, it is signposted on a walking route from the waterfront in Bacoli, but you really have to look for the signs.

I don't know about the Grotta di Cocceo, GAC - it would certainly be worth a visit. We were able to tour the other tunnel that is called the Sybil's cave at Lago d'Averno. It was definitely a military transportation route from Averno to Lago Lucrino; use by the Sybil is apparently unproven, if I understood correctly. That tunnel was closed when we were there in 1988, so I'm glad it's now open again sometimes for visits, even though there is not a ton to see. Flashlights or lamps (provided by the guide; tip him as appropriate for the number in your group) are a necessity! And wear clothes you can get grubby.

KimC: Please specify with precision which "cave" you are referring to, as I don't believe that the Grotta di Cocceo has ever been reopened to the public since WWII. It is one kilometer long, perfectly linear, and is wide enough to accommodate two horse carriages side by side. It is considered by some to be the most impressive work of Roman tunnelling ever achieved.

Is it possible that the "Sibyl's cave" at Lago d'Averno to which you refer is actually the Grotta di Cocceo? Or are you referring instead to the ultra famous "Antro della Sibilla" at Cumae itself (you can visit it without any special protective clothing)? Or are you referring to yet a third tunnel?

There is also the tunnel at Baia discovered in 1962 by Robert Paget, but I doubt you're referring to that one.

You've gotten my imagination going ......

quote:

Remember that the Piscina Mirabilis is open by arrangement with the custodian, i.e., it's not necessarily open and available during specific hours

Is there any time when he is more likely to be there?

The grotto that Kim's refering to is not the Grotta di Cocceo. As you said, that tunnel is not open. There's another grotto on Lago d'Averno (closer to the road back to Lago Lucrino) that is called the Grotta della Sibella. Despite the name, it was apparently built for military purposes when the Roman naval base was there before it moved to Capo Miseno. This is definitely not the same as the cave at Cumae.

When we were there a couple of weeks ago, there was an old guy armed with a couple of gas lanterns who took us on a tour of the grotto, including a passage which is said to be the entrance to the underworld. I told Kim that I'd always known I'd end up there one day .