My best bud and I just got back from 9 beautiful days in Toscana. We traveled to areas where we had already visited before and loved so much we could NOT resist returning (all of Southern Tuscany, i.e. val d'Orcia) and found new areas to see where we had not been yet, (i.e. Cortona and Lucca areas).
For those planning a trip soon and anyone else that is interested, here are some useful (I think) observations (for now, until a trip report and reviews will be written and submitted) :
1) It IS possible to visit Italy way past the time when weather is certain to be great and still have good luck We did for an entire 7 days of our 9 day itinerary. The last 2 days were almost totally pouring rain the entire time. I realize this is all a matter of luck and nothing that anyone can predict or manage, but it made me feel good that sometimes things can work out for you. The first 7 days were beautiful, sunny, blue skies, white fluffy clouds and perfect temperatures. It will make me less worried if and when there is a next time during this season, with full knowledge that it could go entirely the other way.
2) We met with Alessandra in Cortona in her shop (twice actually at the end of each of our 2 days there). She has a GORGEOUS shop and she is a fabulous and charming lady (with perfect amazing English by the way!!). We so enjoyed spending a bit of time with her each evening and she gave us THE most wonderful tips on where to go (Le Celle and the old Fortress (which was closed by the way Alessandra but no matter)/S. Margherita church). Thanks for the wonderful enjoyable time together!!
3) It IS possible to find very inexpensive (yes I know it was already off season but still....) accomodations in very beautiful, large and clean B&B's (although they were mostly just "B's" with no breakfast included). These include :
a) the Casa Kita right smack in the midst of Cortona, where we shared one large room with two single beds and a lovely bathroom, a kitchen for guests use with the makings of light breakfast such as coffee, tea and biscuits, a glorious porch overlooking the valley below.
b) Il Poggiolo Residenza, a HUGE old stone building just right off San Quirico d'Orcia (close enough to walk to the city), where we had an entire apartment which included a huge kitchen / dining room with fireplace, marble-top kitchen table, cabinets, etc., two bedrooms (one single and one double) and a bathroom in between.
c) Casa Naldi in Montecarlo (a sleepy hamlet of only about 300 (!!) people near Lucca) where we each had a huge double room with a beautiful bathroom, something akin to a living room which was shared between these two rooms, a kitchen for our use, again with some condiments, etc. and a lovely porch.
All the above three places are highly recommended.
4) Renting a car through Avis became easier and more customer-friendly. Meaning they speak some English now in the garages where you pick up your car, and if you ask repeatedly for an automatic car and insist it NOT be a robotic one (i.e. manual/automatic together) you finally DO get one. I was more than pleased. Finally!!! Not having to struggle. The smallest automatic available, the Nissan Micra we got, was NOT too small for two people with their luggage, even though they tried to convince me otherwise when I originally made the reservation.
AND they open EARLIER (not later ) than their advertised 7 AM time to return your car (and this was a great big surprise. Good for them!!!
5) Leave PLENTY of time (I always do...) when leaving the airport if you go through Terminal 5. It is SUCH a long procedure. Even at the ungodly hour of 7 AM, there were enough people there, although not mobbed, where the whole procedure from start to finish (i.e. dropping off car, lugging luggage to shuttle, shuttle to T5, all procedures taking place there, shuttle back to Terminal C, getting to gate, whew!!) probably took close to 90 minutes. So be warned.
6) We had some glorious meals. Most of them were in Cortona and Southern Tuscany, while in the Lucca area, it lacked a bit. Food is so amazingly different even in the SAME region of Italy. Gelato Artigniale, or even not Artigniale (lol), was hard to find so we did not have our "fix" as much as we wanted, but we made up for it with luscious cornetto e crema for breakfasts and some amazing panna cotta and other deserts. Pici was the all-time favorite pasta as were several different kinds of cantucci. The new olive oil is to die for and I have yet to try a house wine at any trattoria that did not make me smile (never could get a bottle since I was the lone drinker).
7) We met with Kim for breakfast one morning in Montalcino and while it was a short visit since we were pressed for time to continue up to the Lucca area, it was great to see you and you are "lookin' good", keep it up and continue to feel well Hope your trip back home is good and easy for you.
8) People you hardly know may very easily give you a hug and the traditional European "double kiss on both cheeks" before you leave their establishment (this happened at Casa Naldi where we were greeted on the day we arrived and the following day by one woman but when we left, we met for the first time with another. She had no rapport with us but after several minutes of talk and paying the bill, this is how she sent us on our way. Amazing!!)
That is all I can think of right now. Except that Italy always leaves me with a feeling of tranquility, of wanting to come back again and again, of friendliness, smiles and peace. I love love love love it.
Originally posted by Dorit: amazing panna cotta {QUOTE}
My favorite!
{QUOTE} That is all I can think of right now. Except that Italy always leaves me with a feeling of tranquility, of wanting to come back again and again, of friendliness, smiles and peace. I love love love love it. !!
Well said!!!! Your trip sounds wonderful.
Posts: 438 | Location: Connecticut | Registered: 02 December 2005
It sounds like an amazing trip. Thanks for updating us, and for your reviews so far. I will be watching for your trip/restaurant/accommodations reviews. We are going in April.
it was fun to end the day with you and your friend! I miss those long chats. I still apology for making you wait so much while I was on the phone, but new jobs, as you say, needs adjustments. And Pete knows if I need a new job!
I am sure our paths will cross again, one way or another, until then, we'll meet on ST!
great to hear you had fun! I wish I had known you were in the area! Too bad, next time then!
I bet the rain caught you up in Lucca... in Pisa it has been raining non stop for 3 weeks now... and my parents tell me that down here in Southern Tuscany they were almost always just fine.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Gloria - Casina di Rosa:
great to hear you had fun! I wish I had known you were in the area! Too bad, next time then!
/QUOTE]
Hi Gloria,
What a nice message, thanks!! Indeed next time we could try and meet.
The weather while in Cortona and Southern Tuscany was indeed ideal, while on our second day around the Lucca area, it started raining and it was really bad for our last 2 days. But we cannot complain, for after all it could have been, as you write in Pisa, rain all the time!!!
Il Poggiolo Residenza, a HUGE old stone building just right off San Quirico d'Orcia (close enough to walk to the city),
Was this in San Quirco...or in Montepulciano??
We stayed at Il Poggilo in Montepulciano ... and your description sounds like where we stayed ... just wondered if there were two Il Poggiolo's ... ??? Here is the Apartament Al Poggiolo where we stayed ... is it different from where you stayed?
karen
Posts: 276 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 26 January 2005
No it was not the same place. It was indeed just outside of S. Quirico. In fact, when looking for reviews ANYWHERE of this place, I found absolutely nothing but decided to take a chance on it (and was so pleased in the end). Here is their website :
We just got back this week and I couldn't agree more - we were in Southern Tuscany from Nov. 1 - 14 and Venice from Nov. 14 - 17. Tuscany was gorgeous and NO crowds anywhere (can't say the same for Venice - I hadn't been in 10yrs but when did it get so crowded in November?!); we saw very few Americans in Tuscany.
Our first tuesday there, 11/4, was rainy so we hit the museums in Chiusi and had a long, leisurely, wonderful lunch there. There were storms on 2 different nights but it was nice by morning and the whole rest of the time until thursday Nov. 13 was beautiful. Several mornings were quite foggy, but it was fun to climb above it, on the way to Cortona in particular, then watch it burn off.
We too went back to some favorite places - Pienza, San Quirico, Montalcino, Montepulciano, etc. but were also able to visit some we didn't get to last year - Monteriggioni, San Gimignano, Cortona, Buonconvento, Ascanio and Orvieto.
The food and wine was incredible, we visited San Giovanni d'Asso during the truffle festival, loved seeing the olive harvesting going on everywhere, and during the last week were able to sample the first of the new extra virgin oil pressings. We knew the weather could be iffy so having it be so nice was a great bonus.
Sounds like we did just about the EXACT trip and also same timing (i.e. we were also at the truffle festival at S. Giovanni)!! Funny.
We also wondered at the fogginess of Cortona in the early morning and burning off sometime later in the day. I wonder if this is an autumn thing or it is like that on a regular basis there?
Michael - HI !!! Sorry that we just missed each other (next time I definitely have to plan better ).
No we never did get to Redi although I had written to them to see whether we needed an appt., got a reply but did not fix anything certain and in the end never managed to get there. There was much we planned on and did not get to (even though we DID get up early and start our day early knowing that at 5 PM it got dark). We did stop however at Cigusi and I got some gooooood Pecorino sittin' in my frig just now .
Hope your trip home was good. When do you go back again?
We did do the same things -- you probably meant the Redi winery, but we made a stop at the Cantina del Redi in Montepulciano; I have their folder right in front of me. Loved going in the side down from the piazza and weaving through the cellars to the tasting room. We bought some wonderful Vino Nobile to drink back at the apartment - we were based in Monticchiello.
I liked the fog and how it came and went, and depended on exactly where you were. On the day of the Truffle Festival, Sunday I think, in the morning it was sunny in Monticchiello and Pienza, very foggy in Buonconvento and most of the way up the road to and past Mt Oliveto, then very sunny in Asciano and San Giovanni d'Asso then foggy again on the way down....
We LOVED the lack of crowds anywhere, even San Gimignano and Orvieto...maybe we shouldn't talk up travel in November The only thing we didn't like was, as you mentioned, getting dark so early...we got a little turned around and lost for a bit on the way back from San Gimignano...but that's half the fun.
One question regarding Cortona - what's with the nuns hitch-hiking on the roads in and out of town? I know there are convents there but it was strange to see them having to hitch for a ride.
Nuns hitch-hiking?? Never saw that!! Sounds like a great picture!!
What time of day were you at the truffle festival? We were there early and even though we stayed till around 11:30, there never seemed to be anything "hopping", just very little along the main road and a big white tent at the entrance (where we DID taste and buy some fabulous new olive oil and pastries to die for).
I am sorry we did not make it to the Redi winery (yes that is what Michael was talking about), but just another "excuse" for me to go back soon (as if I needed one!!!).
Which apartment and where were you in Montichiello? I love that whole area best of all. We once stayed in Montalcino, and this time were based for three days around San Quirico. Loved them all !!
We were at the truffle festival a bit later - we'd been in Buonconvento, then there was a street market in Asciano, so we probably got to San Giovanni around 12:30 or so - we too sampled some of the new oil!
We stayed at the same place last year in Monticchiello and liked it so much we went back. It's the first left past La Porta and up the hill; a very nice couple live in one apartment on the 2nd floor (first floor to them!) and rent out the other two. Our windows all looked out toward Pienza, and there's a pretty garden out back next to olive groves - we watched the olives being picked the entire 2 weeks. We found it a perfect location - small village with 2 very good restaurants, and close to so much. We mostly drove but did the round trip walk to Pienza both times as well -- needed to walk off all the great food and wine!
Hey Kim!! Yeah, it WAS great to see you, too short of course. But that was our fault, pressed for time. I am counting on you though in Israel. Meantime, to your good health!!
Gabriele,
Funny - again we were also in Asciano that day and walked through that street fair, but later -after San Giovanni. It was fun and we stopped at the Porchetta truck for lunch. When we both ordered water to go with our sandwich, a local man looked at us and said "no acqua, vino!!" I was convinced (very hard ) to take the vino but my friend stuck with the water.
Seems to me from what you write that you are also a "serial Toscana lover"!!!
Originally posted by SGabriele: Dorit, One question regarding Cortona - what's with the nuns hitch-hiking on the roads in and out of town? I know there are convents there but it was strange to see them having to hitch for a ride.
There has been a "convention" of the Franciscan order a couple of weeks ago, and a lot of nuns were going either up tho Le Celle -where I told you to go, Dorit- or up to Santa Margherita. A lot of them where young nuns, and they at times hitch hike. This way they also get close to people and usually are superfriendly. It is an approachto people that we really like here, and it is not related to one religion or another, they try to get close to all without imposing and preaching-I wouldn't like them in that case.
Thanks for the message Alessandra!! I personally though did not see any "biking Nuns"!! I liked your explanation - very in tune with the people of small town Italy that I have met over the years, i.e. friendly and willing to lend a hand. This is one of the reasons I keep coming back so often.
And by the way, we DID find Cortona to be a a jewel and nothing at all touristy or influenced by Francis Mayer, the Disney movie, etc.
Originally posted by Dorit: And by the way, we DID find Cortona to be a a jewel and nothing at all touristy or influenced by Francis Mayer, the Disney movie, etc.
I'm so glad to hear this. We will spend 5 nights in Cortona in April.
Originally posted by Dorit: No we never did get to Redi although I had written to them to see whether we needed an appt., got a reply but did not fix anything certain and in the end never managed to get there. There was much we planned on and did not get to (even though we DID get up early and start our day early knowing that at 5 PM it got dark).
Too bad :-( It is a really beautiful cantina.
quote:
We did stop however at Cigusi and I got some gooooood Pecorino sittin' in my frig just now .
Oh yeah, yum! Did you say hi to Paolo for me?
quote:
Hope your trip home was good. When do you go back again?
Yes, it is wonderful to be home. Out of the six months I was there, I had a stretch at the end of more than 2 months with my family back in the states. It really made leaving Italy quite easy this time! I'll be back in mid-May again for the summer stretch, but if history is an indicator, I'll surely make 2 or 3 last minute trips back and forth between now and then.
Originally posted by Dorit: How long is the "summer stretch"?
It's too early to tell. We have tours running from April through December next year, but I won't be there for everything. In a perfect world I would come home in late August.
Originally posted by Dorit: How long is the "summer stretch"?
It's too early to tell. We have tours running from April through December next year, but I won't be there for everything. In a perfect world I would come home in late August.
OOOOOOOOOKay, I'm thinkin' I need to do some adjustments to my work resume, i.e. get a new job that lets me stay in Italy almost year-round!!!!
We did for an entire 7 days of our 9 day itinerary. The last 2 days were almost totally pouring rain the entire time. I realize this is all a matter of luck and nothing that anyone can predict or manage, but it made me feel good that sometimes things can work out for you. The first 7 days were beautiful, sunny, blue skies, white fluffy clouds and perfect temperatures. It will make me less worried if and when there is a next time during this season, with full knowledge that it could go entirely the other way.
or even not Artigniale 
(lol), was hard to find so we did not have our "fix" as much as we wanted, but we made up for it with luscious cornetto e crema for breakfasts and some amazing panna cotta and other deserts. Pici was the all-time favorite pasta as were several different kinds of cantucci. The new olive oil is to die for and I have yet to try a house wine at any trattoria that did not make me smile (never could get a bottle since I was the lone drinker).
Hope your trip back home is good and easy for you.
.
