April 20th (a Friday) I will be leaving from the Arezzo area to spend a week on the island of Lipari.
I am in the process of trying to figure out if there is any particular reason to choose the overnight train to Milazzo vs. the overnight ferry from Naples.
Does anyone happen to recommend either one for any particular reason?
I would strongly recommend taking the ICP train direct from Arezzo to Naples, then the traditional Siremar overnight car ferry to Lipari, for the following reasons:
1. Much more comfortable. A twin bunk in a sleeping cabin on the ferry is much, much more comfortable than a very small twin bunk sleeping compartment on the Espresso train from Roma Termini to Milazzo. You have en-suite private facilities on the ferry; whereas on the train, the toilet is at the end of the railcar. Some people have trouble sleeping on the train because of noise during intermediate stops during the night, or while crossing the Straits of Messina (when the railcars are pushed onto the train ferry). By contrast, the ship is very quiet at night, and there are no stops until Stromboli.
2. Less expensive. The combination train/ferry will cost 89 Euros per person (32 Euros for a reserved second class seat on the ICP train to Naples, plus 57 Euros for a bunk in a twin sleeping cabin on the ferry). The combination train/hydrofoil via Milazzo will cost 120.20 Euros per person (108 Euros for a second class seat on the IC train to Roma Termini together with a a bunk in a small twin bunk sleeping compartment on the Espresso train from Roma Termini to Milazzo, plus 12.20 Euros for the hydrofoil from Milazzo to Lipari).
NOTE: You can save some money by booking a "C4 Comfort Couchette" on the overnight train, but I recommend this only if there are 4 persons in your travelling party (otherwise, you'll be sharing the compartment with strangers).
3. More convenient. You connect only once, in Naples, to the overnight ferry which goes direct to Lipari. With the overnight train to Milazzo, you connect TWICE: first you must change trains in Roma Termini, then again in Milazzo to the Siremar or Ustica Lines hydrofoil (or to the Siremar car ferry, which is slightly less expensive than the hydrofoil). Each time you connect, there is a chance of missing the connection.
4. More scenic: the morning views of Stromboli, Panarea, Salina and Lipari from the promenade deck of the overnight car ferry are stunning and unforgettable. By contrast, you'll see nothing on the overnight train to Milazzo, and very little on the hydrofoil between Milazzo and Lipari.
5. More relaxing. You can walk around the ferry during the crossing, but are relegated to your small sleeping compartment on the overnight train to Milazzo.
6. More eating options. You can eat in the cafeteria of the ferry if you wish, but you must bring sandwiches/beverages with you on the overnight train.
7. More socializing. You can socialize in the main bar lounge of the ferry if you wish.
8. Possible train delays. You might miss your train connection at Roma Termini (unless you take an earlier train from Arezzo); the overnight espresso train from Roma Termini to Milazzo often runs late by about 1 hour.
9. No need to reserve in advance: Because April is LOW SEASON, you don't need to book the cabin on the ferry until the very last moment. By contrast, you'll want to book a sleeper on the overnight train several days beforehand, or you risk having to choose a different train (being Friday night also does not help).
About the only advantage of taking the overnight train is that the total trip is a bit shorter. For example:
OPTION 1:
lv Arezzo ICP train 15:05; ar Naples 19:36; lv Naples Stazione Marittima 21:00 ar Lipari 10:50; (total 19 hrs. 45 mins) versus
OPTION 2:
lv Arezzo IC train 19:05; ar Roma Termini 21:06; lv Roma Termini 21:32; ar Milazzo 6:45; lv Milazzo 8:30 (Siremar hydrofoil) ar Lipari 9:25 (total 14 hrs. 20 mins).
TIP: While you are unlikely to encounter bad weather on April 20, obviously one would want to avoid taking the ferry during rough seas.
CAVEAT: During April through June, the overnight car ferry from Naples to Lipari departs ONLY on Tuesday and Fridays evenings at 21:00. By contrast, you can travel by overnight train to Milazzo any day of the week.
CAVEAT: Obviously, if you have a strong aversion to travelling by sea, the train would be your first choice.
OPTION 3: Travel by train from Arezzo to Milazzo entirely by day, overnight in Milazzo, then take the early morning hydrofoil or ferry to Lipari the following morning:
lv Arezzo 9:05 ICP train ar Roma Termini 11:03 lv Roma Termini 11:45 ICP train ar Milazzo 19:43
Reserved seat for both trains: 58 Euros in second class; 80 Euros in first class.
Saturday morning Siremar car ferry from Milazzo to Lipari at 9:00 (ar Lipari 11:00); or take the faster hydrofoil.
HINT: Travelling "on the cheap"? Here's how to save some money on the overnight ferry:
Option 1: book a sleeping cabin without private facilities and save 10 Euros per person (based on double occupancy). NOTE: there are only a few such cabins (all without view);
Option 2: forego the cabin entirely, book a reclining seat, and save 15.50 Euros per person.
RECOMMENDATION: spend the extra money and reserve the cabin with private facilities. You'll thank yourself and the cost difference is minor.
Napoli Centrale train station is about 1 mile from the Stazione Marittima, from where the Siremar ferry departs for the Aeolian Islands. You can take a taxi (10-15 Euros) or the city bus/tram (1 Euro) to reach the main entrance to the Port area. It's really a bit too far to walk, particularly with luggage, and the whole area is rather unkempt, run down, noisy and generally very unattractive, so I counsel against walking.
If you need to purchase the ferry ticket, you will need to go to the Siremar/Tirrenia ticket office, which is located INSIDE of the huge Stazione Marittima building itself. But the ship is docked 500 yards away, and in any case you'll be able to see it moored next to the much larger Tirrenia ferry bound for Palermo (this other ferry departs 15 minutes before the Siremar ferry). If you wish, you can board the Siremar ferry two hours prior to departure (after 19:00), which is convenient because there is no place to wait near the ship itself, and you'll definitely want to remove yourself from all the heavy vehicular traffic, big-rigs and carbon monoxide. Most people dislike the Naples Port, which unfortunately is not "passenger friendly".
Departing Naples around 21:00 is a memorable experience. The ship passes between Capri and Sorrento, and you can see both very clearly even in the dark. You also see the Palermo-bound ferry depart a few minutes beforehand (passengers like to waive at each other).
Once you arrive at Lipari, everything changes for the better. You can walk to your hotel/furnished room, and many hotel owners will meet the arriving ship and accompany guests by van or on foot.
The best experience of taking the ferry is viewing the approaching islands from the open-air promenade deck and observation area under the bridge. It's a very good idea to bring a wool scarf, head cover, and heavy jacket (particularly in April), when it's likely to be cold and very windy outdoors and at night. To help keep you warm, you can also purchase cappuccino and warm croissants from the barman, beginning around 6 a.m.
Many passengers get up early to watch the approach to Stromboli and at times even see the small eruptions against the skyline as dawn nears. From that point on, it's a magnificent experience to Lipari via Panarea and Salina islands, becoming more beautiful as daylight becomes more pronounced. You get a free introduction to the islands from the ship's open-air decks (yet another reason to prefer the ferry to the train).
Docking operations at the smaller islands are great fun to watch from the stern of the ship. You'll immediately appreciate why the ship is a bit too large for the islands, requiring extra time and great skill to complete the mooring procedures.
NOTE: The ship's cafeteria opens soon after departure, and the main bar (one deck above) stops selling at midnight (reopens at 6:00 a.m.). The bar salon itself remains open all night (for passengers wanting to socialize), but there are no bar sales between midnight and 6 a.m.
1. Correction: in my original posting above, the cost savings of a bunk in a sleeping cabin WITHOUT private facilities is only 5.50 Euros per person, based on twin occupancy. CLEARLY, it is worthwhile to get a larger cabin with private facilities!!!
2. On the overnight ferry, there is a single supplement to be paid when occupying a twin sleeping cabin "in exclusivity". The supplement can be avoided either by sharing the cabin (with a stranger), or opting for a reclining seat instead of a cabin.
3. While you USUALLY don't need to book a cabin in advance when travelling in low season, you should nevertheless allow yourself plenty of time to purchase the ticket at the Siremar ticket office in the Stazione Marittima in Naples. Don't arrive in Naples with only 60-90 minutes to spare, and without a ticket. You'll need to travel by taxi or bus to the Stazione Marittima, stand in line at the ticket window, purchase the ticket, then find your way through the maze of trucks and big-rigs at the Port to the ferry ship itself. Try not to arrive at the Port in the dark, which is not "passenger friendly" even in full daylight!!
4. Most travel agencies in Italy DO NOT sell Siremar tickets. A list of agencies which do can be found in the Siremar website. While you cannot purchase tickets electronically via the website, you can do so by contacting Siremar by e-mail.
5. Be sure to book a cabin in advance if travelling between June and September. During the winter months, the ferry often sails with fewer than 200 passengers (and sometimes with fewer than 100 passengers).
6. While the ferry schedules between Naples and the Aeolian Islands don't change much from year to year (except during July and August, when additional crossings are scheduled, together with a few daylight crossings on the "super fast" ferry), it's a good idea to double check the sailing times a few days before departure.
7. Sailings are not usually cancelled except during the most severe weather conditions (when the departure may be postponed to the early morning). Nevertheless, it's best to avoid the crossing during very bad weather (hence the advantage of not booking in advance).
8. Always remember your alternatives to the "traditional" overnight car ferry: (i) daylight hydrofoil from June through September; (ii) daylight or overnight train to Milazzo, connecting to hydrofoil or car ferry; (iii) possible daylight "superfast" ferry (to Lipari ONLY, if seasonal service is repeated next August, as in 2006).
9. Don't expect to get much advance schedule information from Siremar: official information is usually released at the last moment, due to the uncertainties of continued government funding of this money-losing route (the cost of the ticket does NOT pay for the operational costs of running the ship; the Italian government is funding this state-controlled company).
10. If you're surprised that this service continues even in the dead of winter, it is for economic reasons rather than passenger convenience: the car ferry is the "economic lifeline" of the islands, and is necessary to transport heavy trucks, contruction materials, communication equipment, supplies, farmaceuticals, as well as to resupply food and beverages to islanders. This is how the company can justify crossings even with very light passanger loads.
1. Departures from Naples MERGELLINA on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday. Departures from Naples PIAZZA MUNICIPIO Molo 14 on Fridays and Saturdays.
2. Friday and Saturday departures out of Naples will be on the brand-new GIANT CATAMARAN "Don Francesco", which measures 197 feet in length, 54 feet in width, and trasports 670 passengers and 60 autos.
3. Departures on other days will be on smaller hydrofoils/catamarans, out of Naples Mergellina.
DON'T GET THE TWO DEPARTURE POINTS CONFUSED!!!
DON'T GET THE TWO DEPARTURE POINTS CONFUSED!!!
4. Fares are steep: e.g. Naples to Lipari on the weekend, one way fare of 103.50 Euros; Naples to Stromboli on the weekend, one way fare of 80.50 Euros.
5. Travel time to Lipari: 6 hrs.; to Stromboli 4 hrs. Also stops at Panarea, Salina and Vulcano islands.
NOTE: Ustica Lines is expected to commence daily hydrofoil service between Naples and the Aeolian Islands around June 29. Siremar MAY restore superfast car ferry service between Naples and Lipari twice weekly ONLY in August.
On Thursday, April 26, there should be the Siremar traditional overnight car ferry to Naples departing Lipari around 17.20. The ferry arrives in Naples at 8:00 a.m. You can then take a taxi to Napoli Centrale train station (taxis eagerly wait for arriving passengers), then any Eurostar Italia train up to Rome.
The official schedule for April probably won't be posted until March, but don't worry; you don't need advance reservations for this date. You can wait to purchase your ticket until nearly the last moment. 170 cabins and 200 reclining seats won't get filled up. In fact, you can purchase the return ticket at the same time as you purchase the ticket for the outbound crossing.
SNAV hydrofoil/catamaran service on this route does not commence until June 1st. Ustica Lines hydrofoil service on this route does not commence until June 29. Alilauro Lines hydrofoil service on this route does not commence until around June 23. The Medmar Lines traditional overnight car ferry service on this route does not commence until June 24. The Siremar superfast daylight car ferry service on this route does not commence (if at all) until August.
NO SUMMER "SURGE" of CAR FERRIES BETWEEN NAPLES AND AEOLIAN ISLANDS for 2007
The latest information on the Siremar website shows NO SUMMER SURGE for the overnight traditional car ferry between Naples and the Aeolian Islands: departures continue to be only TWICE WEEKLY through the end of September and thereafter (Tuesday and Friday evenings out of Naples; Monday and Thursday evenings to Naples).
Furthermore, this summer there apparently will NOT be ANY daylight crossings on the Siremar super fast car ferry "Scorpio/Capricorn" which ran in 2005 and 2006.
Nevertheless, I still believe there is a very, very small possibility that there will be a surge of crossings in August (although perhaps no super fast daylight ferry crossings). We'll need to wait and see. Information might arrive at the very last moment.
With the privatization of Tirrenia Lines and its subsidiaries, Siremar can no longer count on government subsidies to cover its operating losses, so the summer "surge" may be a thing of the past.
Also consider the following alternatives:
1. The once-weekly overnight car ferry crossing by Medmar Lines beginning Friday, June 22 2007 (through September 7 only) (NO CABINS, only seats); and
2. The daily summer daylight HYDROFOIL crossings by Alilauro, SNAV and Ustica Lines, which cut travel time in half compared to the slow overnight ferry. BEWARE: These crossings are very expensive compared to the car ferry, and are always subject to cancellation due to bad weather.
3. The daily ICP daylight and EXP night trains to Milazzo, with onward connections by hydrofoil, ferry or fast ferry to Lipari and the other islands.
NOTE: Trenitalia's new "Amica" advance purchase promotional fare from Naples to Milazzo is ONLY 19.60 Euros in second class (reserved seat) on the EXP night train and 30.40 Euros in second class (reserved seat) on the ICP daylight trains. Add 9.60 Euros for the car ferry from Milazzo to Lipari, and you can travel between Naples and Lipari for under 30 Euros!!!
UPDATE: I just received an e-mail from Medmar Lines. They advise that the once-weekly overnight car ferry service between Naples and the Aeolian Islands (in competition with Siremar Lines) will NOT NOT be restored this June, as during the previous two summers. Consequently, the twice weekly Siremar Lines ferry will be the ONLY overnight maritime service to the Islands from Naples.
