Recently several people have asked whether I am looking forward to our trip this summer. We have a month and will visit the UK, Croatia and Italy. There is possibly a little guilt about travelling in the current economy, and my friend Terry (Teaberry) suggested it is part self preservation because we had to cancel last year …. but whatever the reason I am having a hard time feeling what I call the joy of anticipation which is something in which I normally take great pleasure.
In an attempt to ‘feel the joy’ I started to plot out a schedule. The UK and Croatia are pretty well covered, but our 2+ weeks in Italy are completely blank!
We have one night in Rome (Trastevere) on arrival then the following morning we drive up to Sant’Antonio, Montepulciano. We know the area reasonably well and love Sant’Antonio, but it occurs to me that perhaps this is adding to my current state of mind. I haven’t felt the need to research and plan!
So, finally, in the hope that you can inspire me, I get to the question. Without giving you any boundaries (withing the realm of good taste of course) what is your most memorable/magical experience within say a half hour, or max one hour drive of Montepulciano? Something, someplace, or event, …. a memory that you look back on with complete delight.
The facts, we will be in Italy from June 19 to July 4, and will be joined there by my sister and BIL with whom we travel often and well.
Oh, and please don’t lecture me about how lucky we are to be taking this trip. I know we are!
For me it was discovering the gate, on a white road between Pienza and San Quirico, which leads to the iconic Cappella di Vitaleta. Leaving my car at the locked gate and treading the half kilometer or so of dirt road to reach the chapel was a bit trepidatious as I imagined confronting the owner of the property or, worse, being the victim of wayward gunshot as hunting season had just begun, and trigger-happy Italians had been spotted all over the countryside. My private communion with the silent sentinel is a lasting and valued memory:
Posts: 300 | Location: Santa Barbara, CA | Registered: 19 November 2002
We have passed by Cappella di Vitaleta but have never had the courage to get anywhere near as close as you did. I totally understand both your trepidation and empathy.
Frankly, it did not even enter my mind to attempt entry, Sheena; maybe it struck me as an inviolate sanctuary, or, more likely, my edginess at merely being there remained undiminished, encouraging a somewhat hasty retreat.
Fred
Posts: 300 | Location: Santa Barbara, CA | Registered: 19 November 2002
The most memorable experience for me was my day at La Foce. I had read Iris Origo's book/diary which is what made the day extra special. Seeing the actual property where so much history had taken place during WWII was very emotional for me and I had a hard time not breaking down numerous times. At risk to their own lives, this woman and family took in orphans and escaped Allied POW's, as well as taking care of all the farmers and their families who had worked the Oriego land.
The family cemetary is lovely and set a distance from the main house. Enclosed walls keep its contents safe and not only are Iris, her husband and children buried there, but all farmers and family who worked the Origo land are allowed to rest there as well. Many gravestones have pictures on the front, so one can put faces to the names.
A place no one should miss while staying in the Val D'Orcia and made even better if you read her book, "War In Val D'Orcia"
Sharon J
Posts: 1142 | Location: Houston, TX USA | Registered: 01 November 2003
One of my favorite " off-the-path" loctions is Santa Anna in Camprena which was the site for the filming of THE ENGLISH PATIENT. You can see it here in my photo gallery and you can find it on your map north of Pienza on the road to Montisi. Lovely frescoes inside as well. It may be an art school now.
I just returned from Val D'Orcia last week. I was on a two week research trip and was going to stay at a fabulous farmhouse called La Bandita. After turning down several wrong dirt roads, I found the correct one and made my way up the 2.5 kilometer road (if you can call it that). The whiplash and undercarriage car damage was all worth it when I arrived and the caretaker Francesca greeted me at the door with warm biscotti and an espresso. I sipped the nectar and took in the magnificent view of the Val D'Orcia. I didn't know where to look first - every view was better than the last. No matter that the wind was howling and that it was snowing. I entered the house to a roaring fire and a sense of peace and welcome like no other. I can't wait to go back.
Sheena - don't miss Sant'Antimo. It is the medieval monastery tucked away near Montalcino and it is truly a special place. The monks say mass seven times daily in Gregorian chant. I know for certain they do it at 12:45 and 2:45. It is worth the trip.
Sharon, we did go to La Foce a couple of years ago, but for some now forgotton reason we did not go to the cemetery - perhaps because when we visited the garden I hadn't read the book. My sister and her husband were not with us on that trip, so perhaps I'll send her the book then we will visit again this year.
Bob, I had been thinking about a visit to Montisi, so now you have inspired me to go to Santa Anna and then on to Montisi for lunch.
Fred, how could you get that close and not try the door?? Wouldn't you just love to see the inside? Perhaps it would be a disappointment - better left to one's imagination.
Ashley, we have heard the Gregorian chants at Sant'Antimo. I would add that a serendipitous experience for us was taking a wrong turning on the way back to Sant'Antonio after dinner in Montalcino. We drove for a very long time on some very dark roads and the mood in the car was not very happy until we came around a bend to be greeted by the sight of Sant'Antimo floodlit down in the valley before us. It was incredibly beautiful and worth getting lost for.
Sheena - My favorite stop on an all too brief day trip to the Val d'Orcia from our rental outside of Siena was at the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. I was totally entranced by the frescos in the cloisters and in the refrectory, and by the tranquil setting.
Judy
ps: will PM you soon about arranging a GTG since our dates overlap - we will be outside Pienza the week of the 20 - 27.
Posts: 3920 | Location: Berkeley, CA | Registered: 22 March 2005
One of my most memorable experiences was driving, by myself, way up to the very isolated Rocca di Radicofani. When I was there no one else was, and I could wander around the ruins by myself. You can see Mt Amiata off in the distance. It was a lovely experience; the article I've just linked to doesn't to it justice at all.
What is your most memorable/magical experience within say a half hour, or max one hour drive of Montepulciano? Something, someplace, or event, …. a memory that you look back on with complete delight.
May 8,2005 - only a couple of minutes down the hill from Montepulciano towards bivio Nottola at Tenuta Valdipiatta - a vineyard.
Today we intended to spend the day in the area northwest of Siena, but we got waylaid a short distance from our apartment. As we were going up the hill to Montepulciano, we noticed, not for the first time, a sign for Tenuta Valdipiatta, one of the recommended vineyards on our list. We decided on a short detour, turned left onto an unpaved road and drove for about a kilometer until we came to a small group of buildings. We entered one, were shown into a tasting room and were introduced to Tomas, a marketing agent for the vineyard. We enjoyed a tasting of several different wines, all of which were very good. Then Tomas offered to show us around the property. I don’t know if everybody gets the same reception at Valdipiatta, but ours was a very pleasant and amiable experience. Tomas showed us all areas of production, unlocked the heavy wooden doors and took us into the caves in the side of a hill where the wines were stored in large oak casks. Tomas was friendly, informative and accommodating. We were at Valdipiatta for about an hour and a half. We bought two bottles of excellent Vino Nobile, including a Riserva, both of which we brought back with us. Later in our holiday, we saw Tomas walking with friends on the Corso in Montepulciano. He stopped and we chatted for a couple of minutes. Nice guy.
We had many additional memorable experiences during our time in the Val d'Orcia, but Tomas came to mind first - so I guess that must be it.
Hi Sheena, while I can't give you a place, I hope that one of my memories from last year will inspire you as we know only the area of the Val d'Orcia can. As I arrived to my apartment in Montepulciano last May, several young men were practicing long drums for a Renaissance festival in the parking lot down below via Poliziano. It was one of those moments where the present day fused with the past - pure medieval Montepulciano.
Cindy ~ "Follow your Bliss." Find where it is, and don't be afraid to follow it. ~ Joseph Campbell
Posts: 771 | Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA | Registered: 16 November 2005
I had been thinking about a visit to Montisi, so now you have inspired me to go to Santa Anna and then on to Montisi for lunch.
Sheena, when you go to Montisi you should have lunch in Trequanda (close by village) at Conte Matto which is the restaurant everyone talks about. It is excellent and has lovely views if you can sit outside.
This is what I said about it on my blog.
It was outstanding in all ways—service, food, presentation, location and views. It is one of those places worth seeking out. Casey had ricotta and melon ravioli with red pepper corns—every bit as good as it sounds. I had lamb with a honey preparation and Ken had boar with a chocolate and pine nut sauce. Yum, yum! We had equally good antipasti. My suggestion: add it to your list of must visit restaurants in this area. Il Conte Matto in Trequando not far from Pienza, Montepulciano and this area.
Judy, we did attend a Sunday morning service at Monte Oliveto Maggiore a few years ago - followed by a great lunch at Conte Matto, Jane! I think it was the year Conte Matto moved. Perhaps it is time for a repeat of that experience, with a bit more information about the frescos.
My other thought was to visit the less known Abbadia San Salvatore, which I think we could tie in with Marian's Rocca di Radicofani. Did you visit San Salvatore Marian (or anyone). Any suggestions for lunch in the area?
Doug I just took another look at your trip report. It is interesting that you mentioned Tenuta Valdipiatta as I heard about it recently, but can't remember where! We usually visit one winery each year and perhaps Valdipiatta will be this year. By the way, if you get back to the area (or should I say WHEN you get back) do visit Ciacci Piccolomini and request the tour that includes the Palazzo. A really interesting tour and great wine.
Going back to Conte Matto, Jane, would you eat here rather than in Montisi?
Hi Cindi! So you haven't lost your love of Montepulciano.... and you are quite right, it is those unexpected, unplanned experiences which make this area so special.
Thanks for all of the ideas. Of course in spite of all the planning we also do a lot of just hanging out in the piazza, by the pool, over a long lunch. Okay, getting inspired!
Going back to Conte Matto, Jane, would you eat here rather than in Montisi?
Sheena, I haven't eaten in Montisi. Is there a place there we should go to this summer? Like you, we are always looking for the new but find it hard to tear away from old favorites. Tell me more about Ciacci Piccolomini. We have been to Montepulciano almost more times than I can count but have never gone there.
The restaurant I have in mind in Montisi is da Roberto Taverna which seems to have mixed reviews - though most of them very good. I thought it was a Tuscan House recommendation, but I don't see it on their list now. I think Gail could give you information.
Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona is close to the Abbazia di Sant' Antimo at Castelnuovo dell'Abate. It is an incredibly interesting winery. Make sure you ask for the tour which includes the Palazzo, and hopefully you will meet the knowledgable, interesting and to quote the men 'outstandingly attractive' Angela. As you know we are not wine experts, but we did really enjoy the Ciacci Piccolomini wines and the quality was confirmed by Nico who happened by when we were enjoying a bottle in the garden at Sant'Antonio.
For restaurants in the area I have notes on, (but haven't eaten at) Locanda Sant'Antimo and Restaurant la Torre in Castelnuovo, or about 15 minutes away Il Leccio or Trattoria il Pozzo in Sant'Angelo in Colle.
Hi Sheena, and Jane too. In '07 we went to Sant'Antimo one morning and then followed the narrow dirt road to Sant'Angelo in Colle, where we had a great lunch at Il Pozzo. I think I picked it because it was Dean's favorite there. Then an afternoon tour of Ciacci Piccolomini -- what a perfect day! So I can definitely recommend Il Pozzo, although I've also read good things about Il Leccio. We also enjoyed lunch in Montepulciano one day at A Gambe di Gatto, Via dell'Opio nel Corso 34. The enthusiasm of the owner and his wife for their food and wines was contagious. I'm glad your enthusiasm is returning -- I know that for many of us, the anticipation and planning of a trip is half the fun.
Aloha, Ann
Posts: 1606 | Location: Sunset Beach (Haleiwa), Hawaii, USA | Registered: 16 September 2001
We have so many good memories of our month in Pienza it is hard to just pick one. One particularly beautiful end of the day in Bagno Vignoni comes to mind with the air growing cooler as the fall evening approached - steam rising off the flooded central piazza. My wife and I walked down the hill to where the runoff drained and soaked our bare feet in the warm water while taking in the view across the valley. A quick stop in Castiglione d'Orcia on the way back to Pienza by nightfall. Our S. Antimo experience was surreal - a scouting jamboree of some sort with an amateur rock band blasting phoenetic American rock songs outside to go with the piped in Gregorian chants.
We spent a month in this area in May/June 2005, based in the tiny village of Chiusure, perched above Monte Oliveto Maggiore. You can climb up through the village to a small park and look down on the abbey.
But my best memories are of two leisurely lunches and making new Slow Travel friends, both at Osteria la Porta in Monticchiello. This is another very small village, in an idyllic setting. We sat out on the porch, looking out over the view, in absolutely no hurry. Our first meal was with Kim, Chris, Krista and Steve. Then a week or so later we met Leslie, Brent and Riley. I enjoyed strolling around the village too... beautiful flowers. There are lots of reviews from Slow Travelers here.
Our Saena Iulia class was returning from a trip to Pienza late one windy Februrary afternoon. We stopped at Bagno Vignoni for a warming drink. The evening was upon us when we left the bar. Against the cobalt sky with cresent moon and evening star was the illuminated Rocca d'Orcia across the valley. At our feet was the softly illuminated milky aquamarine of the water in the central piazza. It was a perfect moment, gazing on etherial beauty and surrounded by my companionable fellow students of Italian and our jovial instructor.
11 yrs ago in June we had a lovely stay at Castello Ripa D'Orcia and enjoyed exploring all the back roads and hiking trails in that area. See the website about winery visits and dinner reservations. The setting is beautiful and worth a visit. Reviewers who have complained have either had too high expectations or did not get along with the family. They are hard working "old school" people and expect to be treated with respect. I wouldn't expect any problems for an experienced traveller like you. Just make reservations ahead, be patient if they don't answer the door right away, and ask for permission to explore the grounds.
My other thought was to visit the less known Abbadia San Salvatore, which I think we could tie in with Marian's Rocca di Radicofani. Did you visit San Salvatore Marian (or anyone).
No I didn't, Sheena, I just took a drive one midafternoon and wandered about the Rocca. No meals either, as I was staying close by in San Quirico and headed back there.
Nothing like a group of Slow Travel friends to get you back into pouring over the Touring Club's Atlante stradale d'Italia!
Ann, looking back over past plans I see that we had Sant'Antimo/lunch at Il Pozzo/Ciacci Piccolomini plans for one day. I know we went to Sant'Antimo and Ciacci Piccolomini but I cannot remember eating at Il Pozzo - which of course is why one should keep a travel journal! We obviously ate lunch somewhere that day...
Matt, Bagno Vignoni is beautiful and I am wondering about a day at one of the spas there (see below). We haven't been to Castiglione d'Orcia although I suspect it was one of the villages we passed by on our very long journey home from Monalcino! I am a firm believer in Guiding/Scouting having been involved in Guiding for many years - but I think I may have had some thoughts inappropriate for a person visiting the Abbey directed towards that rock band!
Jeanne, Castello Ripa d'Orcia sounds very interesting. I'll look into it.
Kathy, we have eaten at La Porta, it is close to Sant'Antonio and has so many good reviews. We enjoyed the view over an afternoon glass of wine once, but then when we went back for dinner we made the mistake of going too late to enjoy the view with dinner! A lesson for anyone planning to eat there.
Now, one of the ideas that has cropped up with the research you have all inspired me to do is a day at a spa. The one I read a very good review of is Terme Antica Querciolaia. I know Kathy and her family enjoyed the pools at Hotel Posta Marcucci at Bagno Vignoni and also in Bagno Vignoni is the Adler-thermae . Just along the road from Sant'Antonio is Terme di Montepulciano which we have driven by and I have to say it looks very 'serious' from the outside. Does anyone have any thoughts about or experiences of any of these spas?
Just a note, I somehow ended up at this blog which was what set the spa thoughts in motion. It is Slow Travel favourite blog.
Perhaps I should start a new thread about the spas, but I'll leave it here for a bit.
Jane, read the blog I linked to. The anti-spa treatment is for sure a male thing, but if you read to the end of the blog (or if Ken does) there may be a willingness to sit by the thermal pool.
At some point we have to co-ordinate our Sant'Antonio visits!
Sheena, it looks like we'll enter Tuscany the same day you leave. It'll be my 4th time in val d'orcia and - apart from all the other places described so far (most of them I have been as well) - I do like cruising along strade bianche (white roads).
Some of my favorites: a) Start in Sarteano and drive to Castiglioncello del Trinoro and visit it. From there winds a white road (small but viable) direction north-west heading up to La Foce. Wonderful views to the orcia valley. Special tip: Go before noon, later the day you are looking towards the sun.
b) 2km after having left Sarteano direction Radicofani, leave the SP left towards Fonte Vetriana. Take a look at this small village and then follow the white road downhill in a wonderful and quiet valley (direction south), leaving Le Ripe on the right side and reaching the SS321 at San Casciano dei Bagni.
c) There is a Strada di Bagno Vignoni connecting Bagno Vignoni and Vignoni (on top of the hill). The easiest way would be to leave San Quirico d'Orcia direction west towards Ripa d'Orcia. At the intersection go left to Vignoni. After the village, the road will be very steep (I really mean: VERY steep) but with phantastic views to the south (towards Rocca d'Orcia) and ending at the black road between Bagno Vignoni and Adler Thermae. Note: I only drove it the other way. The entrance is the first road on the right in Bagno Vignoni.
d) I managed it to drive to the "famous" cypress group close to the Cassia west of San Quirico d'Orcia, but the weather was too bad to take photos. This year, I will try again and let you know ;-)
All trips I managed with a standard car (w/o 4WD), but could be as well worth a trip for mountain bikers. Google maps helps you to plan your trip. Of course, I won't take any of them in case of rainy weather.
Start in Sarteano and drive to Castiglioncello del Trinoro and visit it. From there winds a white road (small but viable) direction north-west heading up to La Foce. Wonderful views to the orcia valley. Special tip: Go before noon, later the day you are looking towards the sun.
Patta, Thank you for these driving tips. We stay in a wonderful little house just outside Sarteano and this will be fun to try. One day while visiting the small La Foce cemetary, we were later told that we could have continued up that white road and ended back in Sarteano. Things to look forward to the next time.
Sharon J
Posts: 1142 | Location: Houston, TX USA | Registered: 01 November 2003
Sharon, that's exactly the road I was talking about. I'd prefer to start in Sarteano. Doing this you (or the car driver) will easily enjoy the views on the left side, otherwise you will mostly look at the trees
Our most memorable Val d’Orcia experience was walking through the region on the Via Francigena in October 2008.
We had been to the Val d’Orcia and stayed in nearby Montepulciano for a couple weeks at a time and driven through it but never walked through it.
Walking through was a completely different experience; something we plan to do again in the near future; something I would highly recommend others consider
Sheena, on your spa experiences question, I've been a few times to the Terme di Montepulciano. It started as a place for Italians with various ailments to do cures with the healthy mineral water and still caters heavily to that clientel. For me that gives it an Italian feel.
The Centro di Benessere is on the main floor and I've experienced some wonderfully relaxing massages and facials there! In particular, the massage therapist, Paolo gave me the best ayurvedic massage I've ever had!
Some American clients have said it doesn't have a luxurious atmosphere like spas back in their states, but for me, after a massage there, it's relaxing with soft music, chaise longues and herbal tea and the staff is friendly and well qualified. I'd happily return.
It's an easy, short bus ride from Montepulciano so makes a nice half day trip. Enjoy!
Patta, thank you so much for the very detailed drives. I must admit we haven't done much exploring in the strade bianche - perhaps this will be the year.
Margaret, (Hi neighbour) after that wonderful warm weekend we had I am now sitting freezing cold looking out at pouring rain. Warm thermal pools and a relaxing massage sounds like heaven.
Mamma Ash, glad to hear you liked La Bandita. Mom and I visited when the owners were about 3 weeks from finishing it, give or take. What a simply beautiful setting. Yes, we feared for our car as well.
I suggest: - By car: the street that goes from Montepulciano to Monticchiello, through the woods. It is "via di Montagna" and begin approx 1,5 km going from Montepulciano towards Chianciano. The street is partially white and cross also Castelluccio an ancient castle property of Origo Family. - the natural hot water pools in the woods of Bagni San Filippo. - the Sodoma Frescoes at Sant'Anna in Camprena
Our favorite festival is the one of San Quirico d'Orcia in commemoration of Barbarossa--and you will be here this year when it happens. http://www.festadelbarbarossa.it/ It is wonderful. We liked it even better, a lot better!, than the Sagra del Tordo of Montalcino. Be sure you attend the flag throwing competition and archery tournament in the evening on the last day. It is just magical.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by BOB THE NAVIGATOR: One of my favorite " off-the-path" loctions is Santa Anna in Camprena which was the site for the filming of THE ENGLISH PATIENT. You can see it here in my photo gallery and you can find it on your map north of Pienza on the road to Montisi. Lovely frescoes inside as well. It may be an art school now.
Bob Some information I accessed indicated it is not open to the public, yet other have posted p[ictures of the interior. I am interested in the frescoes among other things. Were you able to get inside?
Posts: 440 | Location: Sierra Nevada foothils, California | Registered: 04 May 2009
Fur Kids Mom, we have been to the Festival of Barbarossa (which we loved), but if I remember correctly the archery and flag throwing were held in the Horti Leonini and you need a ticket to get in.
Do you have information re purchasing tickets? I think I tried once but didn't get very far.
I have been there in Summer 2007 to S. Anna in Camprena, but it took three times to get in. The opening times may vary - not sure what the lastest information is. I tried it in the early afternoon (around 3 pm).
Originally posted by Sheena: Fur Kids Mom, we have been to the Festival of Barbarossa (which we loved), but if I remember correctly the archery and flag throwing were held in the Horti Leonini and you need a ticket to get in.
Do you have information re purchasing tickets? I think I tried once but didn't get very far.
Yes, it is held in the upper section of Horti Leonini--and I believe we did buy tickets that day to attend. We cannot remember where we bought the tickets--possibly from a man at the bottom of the stairs leading from the lower gardens to the field up above. We certainly did not buy them ahead of time or order them. We were SO GLAD we went to the competition--it was really thrilling. I think you should just go that day and you will find out how/where to get tickets to go.
Originally posted by tessmar: [QUOTE]Originally posted by BOB THE NAVIGATOR: One of my favorite " off-the-path" loctions is Santa Anna in Camprena which was the site for the filming of THE ENGLISH PATIENT. You can see it here in my photo gallery and you can find it on your map north of Pienza on the road to Montisi. Lovely frescoes inside as well. It may be an art school now.
Bob Some information I accessed indicated it is not open to the public, yet other have posted p[ictures of the interior. I am interested in the frescoes among other things. Were you able to get inside?
Sant'Anna in Camprena is an agriturismo--which often has artists staying there....but it can be used as lodging for anyone wanting a really authentic location. I believe they close in the winter because they have never installed a heating system!!! http://www.camprena.it/
Another little town we have JUST explored, after 4 years of vacationing here and now living here, is Montefollonico. Great views, some good restaurants, interesting architecture, interesting park (a circular park) just outside the town.
Sorry to hog the thread, but I just thought of something--because I have been there so many times, I forget that it is something not visited by most people coming through this area--that I think is utterly fascinating, and that is the Romitorio (Hermitage) in Pienza. You have to make an appointment with the Moricciani family because it is on their property--but it is an incredible archeological site, so mystical so beautiful--and then after seeing it, go on down the hill to see the Pieve di Corsignano (which is open to the public, but you must be there during opening hours--it is free to visit--take a flashlight with you to see the crypt area).
Both are easily reached on foot from the center of town in Pienza.
A wonderful book that helps explain the unique pievi of Tuscany is a book called The Serpent and the Siren: Sacred and Enigmatic Images in Tuscan Rural Churches by Silvio Bernardini. The carvings found in the romitorio and the pieve in Pienza are discussed quite a lot in his book and make the visits so much more meaningful.
Originally posted by woodstock: Claudia, how long have you lived in the Val d'Orcia? What do you do there? I'd love to live there.. sigh.
Ps. I also anjoy visiting Sant'Anna in Camprena. So peaceful. Many of my ballooning photos are of it.
I just went to your photo galleries. Belle!!! I particularly liked the photo of the comune (the shot with the steps on the right going inside and up into the building) in Pienza--but I liked them all, really! We must go that building without fail next week, to show them my husband is of an age that will make our garbage taxes lower!!! Oh, the things that can float your boat over here.......
Oh, the things that can float your boat over here.......
