In late Sept. a friend and I are travelling to Paris for six nights, flying Paris to Milan to pick up a car and tour Tuscany for six nights, and then driving to Venice to enjoy five nights there. It is her first trip to Italy and my second, but I have not visited the Tuscan countryside. With our trusty web maps and guide books in hand, these towns initially jump out at us: Siena, San Gimignano, Voltera; Massa Marittima, Roccastrada and Grosseto; Montepulciano, Montalcino and Pienza; across the "border" to Orvieto. We understand this is a lot for under a week, and we will be reducing our wish list. Now, as Sherpa Moms with kids ranging from toddlers to teens, we are very easily pleased, but with the info above, especially picking up the car in Milan and dropping it off in Venice, what are the one or two base towns you'd recommend and what suggestions might you have about our choices of towns? (We're giving Florence a miss this trip.) Any comments you offer are much appreciated. Cheers, Linda
Of your list, three are easy to eliminate for a first contact with Tuscany, all places I know: Grosseto (the hinterland is not great), S. Gimignano (very crowded during the day; although use search function on the board for wide variety of opinion), Orvieto (which as you say is in Umbria, plus the part of Tuscany closest to it is not that close and probably doesn't correspond to the mental image that's bringing you to Tuscany in the first place).
If you want contrast out of the two halves of your trip, Siena is very urban, and I'd eliminate it: nothing prevents you from hopping in for a day of course.
Among the others, this board will likely vote heavily for Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano, places I've not been. I rather like Volterra, but it's in a sort of "hole" in the landscape, probably not the best base either.
Can't help with Tuscan town suggestions, but - have you considered flying into Florence instead of Milan? If you're headed to Tuscany anyway, and unless there's something in particular you want to see on the way - it seems it would be a better use of your time to begin your travels in Tuscany.
quote: plus the part of Tuscany closest to it is not that close and probably doesn't correspond to the mental image that's bringing you to Tuscany in the first place
Well, I never can refrain myself from jumping on my chair everytime I read this...even though I probably should have learned by now. Sorry Bill... I will get better I promise! Just let me jump on my chair one (hopefully) last time!!!
In the end everybody just recommends one little piece of Tuscany (usually Montepulciano, Pienza Montalcino or the Chianti) which is as representative of what Tuscnay is as Orvieto! (jOking...) But still... I will probably never stop supporting the variety and richness of Tuscany and the fact that so many places are as beautiful as Chianti or Montalcino (honestly, Garfagnana is way better for me... but this is a personal opinion).
I mean, the area she wants to see is well and easy done, by picking a central location as a base.
From Roccastrada for example she can be in SIena in half an hour, in Florence in an hour and a half, in montalcino in half an hour and Pienza in an hour. If she wants to see Grosseto and Massamarittima (that is Tuscany as well, although different from the sterotype, but sorry not less beautiful, especially as the countryside is concerned) she can be there in 30 minutes.Volterra is easily reached as well.
I really think Tuscany is SO MUCH MORE than Pienza and Montalcino... please...
As, for a nice place to stay around Roccastrada, check the Belagaio website: Hotel Sant'Uberto
Gloria, may you never behave at all... and Linda if I said nothing at all about Roccastrada, it's because I've not been there myself; from everything I've been able to glean from websites and Gloria's site chief among them, though, there seems to be a beautiful little pocket of would-you-believe-it true Tuscany around Roccastrada (Paganico, Pari, Casal di Pari, etc.) and with any luck I'll zoom thru sometime this spring when Gloria least expects me.
The whole notion of "central" is a very tricky one in Europe, and especially in the culturally richest countries -- England, France, Italy. A thoroughly satisfying three-week stay may be had by staying anywhere and keeping my eyes open: my hybrid of Pauline's Concentric Circles (recommended reading) and Dante's "saper vedere", or Know How to See.
Take some places -- downtown Florence -- and your first circle for "sights", enough to keep you occupied and amazed for weeks, will be very small, a radius of 5km. Others -- the remoter mountain towns in the Apennines -- that first circle will be 50km, but no more: with a car, not much difference really. Roccastrada and countless other places outside of Chiantishire and Pienzashire are in between, with a first circle of maybe 20km; and the prices will be lower.
There are a few places in Tuscany that are not too nice (see this thread); similarly with other regions of the country. But everywhere else is beautiful: it's why so many people like Italy!
I think the general consensus is that there are a multitude of terrific solutions to the query.....and we all have our favorites and our reasons.
I would come down on the side of one base for all six days..because I prefer to pack up and move as few times as possible.
The critical issues to decide are
--do you want to be in the countryside or a town? --how far are you willing to drive on day trips? --how often will you do day trips and how much relaxing or vegging out will you be doing?
So with the caveat that there are almost no wrong answers, I would list my base town/area recommendations in this order.
1. Pienza/Montalcino/Montepulciano (south of Siena) 2. Somewhere in or near Lucca--perhaps the Garfagnana, although it is not so easy to drive in and out of that valley. 3. The area near Sansepolcro/Anghiari/Poppi 4. The Mugello area to the north and east of Florence...nice countryside and not as many tourists. 5. Chianti or San Gimignano (north of Siena)
My vote is for Montalcino, I spent five nights there last year as my base town. Easy driving distance to the other hill towns. Plenty of good restaurants and cafes in town that are not expensive. I found the locals extremely friendly. After the tourist clean out late in the day, the real charm of the town comes out. Beautiful views during the day and night. Sat on the edge of wall watched the sun go down. I love walking around at night down the quite streets, no cars, eating some gelato and taking about life. I was very sad the morning I had to leave for Rome, so I went to the local cafe in the town square order my last cappuccino. I really felt that morning if I die tomorrow, I would have something to measure what I expecting heaven to be!
What ever town you pick, I hope it is special as mine! ))
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