We are planning a week in Tuscany (wine related) in February. We often travel to Italy but have not toured the Bari area so I'm trying to figure out if this makes any sense for this time of year.
I have a bunch of questions.
Has anyone been to these area's in February?
Weather almanac say's the temp is in the 50s...is it a tolerable 50 (dry) or humid?
If we do this, we will pick up a car in Rome and drive down and then up the coast. Are most places open?
I'm just starting to explore this idea, so I really don't know what route. We like to drive and I would think we'd go south to the heel and start up the coast. We have about a week and I assumed that some of the beach towns will have no tourists but just the locals.
If there is a better way to do this then I'm open for any and all suggestions.
Roads in the Appennines can be icy or snowed in february, be sure to have winter tyres or chains.
Bari is usually quite mild in winter (lows in the upper 30s, high in the low 50s), but with cold spells from fomer Yugoslavia (E-NE) it can be quite cold and see even some snow.
Assuming you're ending back in Rome I'd consider a circle route. Down to Cassino across SS650 to Termoli down to Bari. Then back up the Adriactic coast to Pescara. Then back across to Rome. You'll hit plenty of beach towns. The SS16 up the eastern coast is nice. SS650 across Molise is also a nice good road. SS16 lots of sea views. SS650 lots of mountain views.
Even the route I mention is four regions for you to cover. At least six provinces.
I recommend you consider staying in Brindisi instead of Bari. It's generally considered a nicer and safer city for many reasons ans the two are close. My friend Jeff blogs from Brindisi "Jeff in Puglia" is the name of the blog and often tells about the city. When I visited Puglia Jeff took us around to see his favorite places and explained how the city was laid out and I was impressed with it.
It's not really that is so cold - like mentioned, 50s in the day and rarely below freezing at night...very nice weather for walking and exploring I thnk - it's mainly that many places (mostly in the more rural areas and smaller towns -probably not an issue IN the city I would think) have no central heating (or don't use it) so, I do find I get chilled in winter and, once I do, I just never warm up (ok, maybe with a glass of wine I do)! I have had many a dinner (in a nice restaurant) wearing my scarf ;-) really. Places that know me, do me the favor of seating me next to the radiator or fireplace! - they are most certainly not heated to the temps you get used to in the US. Make sure to ask at your hotel or rental if they have central heating...otherwise, you may find yourself huddled by an open fire or portable heater :-) I do know people who have booked hotels in Puglia/Basilicata/Campania only to find they have NO heat.
Most everybody has talked about the weather, but I have a question about your basic plan. Why combine Bari with Tuscany? It's a long drive and you'll waste a whole day on the road. Have you been to Umbria (Assisi, Gubbio, Montefalco, etc...)? Have you been to Cinqua Terra? Are you going to visit Lucca which is in Tuscany? In short, why not visit some area closer to tuscany?
Posts: 279 | Location: Haifa, Israel | Registered: 10 June 2005
We spend one or two months in Tuscany every year. It is our greatest love and we have toured all of the places you mentioned and more. We will be back in Tuscany in mid april for 5 weeks.
This would be a surprise present for my husbands 60th birthday. We have an invitation to go to all of the wine introductions the week of February 15th...we are in the wine business so this would be a real thrill for us. We'll both be happy hanging out in Tuscany as usual BUT I wanted to explore the possibility of a week somewhere else.
The only three areas we have not explored are Italy's heel, the alto adige (too cold in February) and the islands. We love to drive so the time traveling is an added bonus for us.
I also really want to expore the idea of flying to an island but really know nothing about that option.
Now that sounds interesting. I have to admit that we visit Italy often (although not for a month at a time) and we are planning to visit Puglia in late April.
Also, I checked your web site and the next time I am in Idaho Falls(yes, I have actually been to Idaho Falls), I will drop in for a visit !!!
Posts: 279 | Location: Haifa, Israel | Registered: 10 June 2005
Originally posted by jfraz: We love to drive so the time traveling is an added bonus for us.
What kind of drive are you looking for? The route I described [It's not 650 I think it's SS87 or 647 brain cramps] is mostly dual carriageway and some divided highway. It's fairly good roads. Mostly level and straight. The internal roads are the exact opposite. Twisty and lots of grade changes. They are lots of fun to drive if you like that sort of drive. OTOH if you get high enough you might see snow.
I've just come back from Puglia (not for the first time) and once again LOVED IT! I've visited in February and, as long as you take sensible clothing, the weather is absolutely lovely. We had clear blue skies and came home with rosey sun kissed faces! It was cold ... but absolutely bearable with a decent jacket. Perhaps not beach weather though, unless you're really brave!
I think double checking that accommodation has central heating is a good idea!
As for where to go, I personally think you're missing out if you don't go way south of Bari to the Salentine peninsular. Most of the main roads are fabulously easy to navigate and very quiet that time of year. Parking will be plentiful and free, and the coastal roads are incredible.
On the Ionian side you have Porto Cesareo, Sta. Caterina, Sta Maria el Bano, thorough Gallipoli (beautiful and quaint, whitewashed houses), past Torre Mozza (beautiful beaches) and down to Leuca. The sunsets are incredible and there are a host of restaurants, beaches, beautiful watch-towers, etc etc.
On the Adriatic Side the coastline is very very different! Much more craggy and a real joy to drive along the winding roads! Highlights include the Caves at Castro, many gorgeous little seaside towns and marinas, some of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen (Maldives beach, and Torre Dell'Orso), and Otranto which is a beautiful baroque old town with an amazing history!
As if that's not enough, Nardo, Galatina, Lecce and Ostuni inland are a must.
For a great guidebook for the Salento peninsular, you could try and get hold of a copy of "The Complete Guide to the Salento". In my view, it includes much more useful information than the rough guides on the local food and drink, fiestas, hidden beaches and it includes lots of hikes and coastal walks. Unfortunately the website is only in Italian. www.quisalento.it
It's about 6 or 7 hours from Rome to this area .... but various stop-offs must include Alberrobello (for the trullis), Martina Franca (which I hear is beautiful) and Matera (again, steeped in history). You probably don't need more than a few hours in each.
Coastal areas will be very quiet and you may have some trouble finding places to eat in the small towns, but inland, and in the larger towns, you'll have no problem at all.
Anyway, I hope this helps. If you want more info, don't hesitate to get in touch.
I've only ever driven the autostrada routes from Rome to Puglia: either down the A1 - Naples, over the mountains on the A16, picking up the A14 at Canosa, or taking the A24/25 over the mountains to Chieti, and then down the A14. In either case, it's around 4.5 hours of driving.
I think I'd be concerned about the weather if I were taking a non-autostrada route at that time of year. Even on the autostrade, it's compulsory to have chains in the car until some time in April, and there's some pretty high stuff to cross if you go on the SS routes.
Once you're in Puglia, I'd agree with Musetta that it's worth checking out heating facilities at your accomodations! Evenings can certainly be cold, but if it's dry during the daytime the air is wonderfully clear at that time of year, and the views are superb.
And I'd agree with Judith that Brindisi and its area is probably nicer than Bari. But there are nice coastal towns north and south of Bari (Trani and Polignano would be my picks): these are working towns rather than just holiday resorts, so you'll find plenty of places open.
Jonathan
Posts: 3405 | Location: Stroud, UK | Registered: 18 November 2001
Thank you all for your advise. I think this might work. Jim and Nick I've printed out your ideas and will take all of your suggestions and do a little more research.... and probably come back with more questions in a month or so.
I think I'd be concerned about the weather if I were taking a non-autostrada route at that time of year. Even on the autostrade, it's compulsory to have chains in the car until some time in April, and there's some pretty high stuff to cross if you go on the SS routes.
The SS across Molise aren't that bad. The area that's right around Campobasso is I guess the highests but much of the rest follows the river valley. There is the risk of high winds on the bridge over the man made lake closer to Termoli but thats more of a problem for trucks. I forget what the lake is called. Would be nice if we get enough rain to fill the lake up.
Mid last November there was a "major" storm that slowed traffic in Campobasso down. But all the same storm did in for example Boiano was rain. OTOH last Easter was a mess. A lot will depend on the weather. The SS roads wouldn't bother me but then I learned to drive in Canada and a few inches of snow we call spring. The SP roads up into the hill towns would worry me more. Driving up those roads you can watch storms change from rain to sleet to freezing rain to snow.