Had to cancel a trip here in November so am taking it this April. Staying at the Porto San Mamolo and am very excited. What is the weather like late April, 20 - 29? Day trips planned to Ravenna, Parma, Modena, Imola (car nut husband) but was wondering about walks out of the city. When we were in Florence we walked up to Fiesole and it was one of the highlights of our trip. Are there any comparable hill towns around that you could hike to? Trails would be fine but we took the roads and I liked seeing the houses, the change of terrain, the types of houses.
At the Southwestern edge of the Centro, you can walk from the Porta Saragozza up to the Sactuary of the Madonna di San Luca. I haven't done this yet, but it has been on my list for years. The walk is 4km long, winding up the foothills of the Appenines. It is entirely porticoed, with 666 arches. I believe there are some restaurants along the way, a tapestry museum and 15 rest stops for prayers.
At the top is the church housing an icon of the "Black Madonna". On a clear day you can see the Sanctuary from the Centro of Bologna. The views from the sanctuary are supposed to be fabulous.
Nardi - you can read more about the walk up to San Luca here; Girasoli, a Slow Travel member, blogged about her walk up to the Sanctuary and included a number of fabulous photos. The next post in her blog includes some wonderful photos of the inside of the church.
On a very warm day last June my husband and I opted to take the bus up to San Luca rather than hike up through the porticoes - and we are so glad we took the time to go up there. The views of Bologna and the surrounding countryside are amazing, the Basilica is impressive, and we enjoyed a wonderful lunch at a small nearby restaurant called Vico, where we were pleased to find a broad, fairly priced menu and wonderful fresh dishes.
Enjoy.
TourMama
Posts: 4835 | Location: Berkeley, CA | Registered: 22 March 2005
Nardi, I have stayted at Hotel Porta San Mamolo twice. Great place with wonderful service and fabulous breakfasts.
I would definitely recommend the walk up to San Luca (thanks Judy for the nice compliment). I would not however walk from the hotel unless you are interested in a very long walk. There was a transportation strike the day I did the walk. I believe there is a bus stop where the hike begins or you could walk from the Porta Saragozza (a longer walk).
There is supposed to be a wonderful place to eat called Trattoria Meloncello at the base of the hike. I read a review on this place here. Unfortunately, I read the review after I returned home that summer.
Judy, thank you for the link to Girasoli's report.
Girasoli, I'm looking forward to reading about the walk. I have been wanting to do it for years. The last time we were in Bologna was the first week of January. But the whole time we were shrouded in a very persistent fog. The morning we left to go to the airport, it was clear, cold, sunny and sparkling clear. I could see the Sanctuary from our taxi and I almost cried! It would have been the perfect day for the walk.
I understand that bus #20, which runs up Via dell'Indipendza will take you to the Porta Saragozza and even take you halfway up if interested.
Thanks everyone for the info. The walk up to San Luca has been on my "must do" list. Hoping to find other walks but, from the sounds of it, getting around town will offer much hoofing in itself.
Girasoli, thanks for the link to World Foodie Guide and her list of eateries. I am compiling lists and lists of the wheres and the whats to print up.
Hopefully other recommendations will continue to come in. Word of mouth is the only way!
I was going through an old trip journal and found another walk that we enjoyed. It is to the Giardini Margherita, in the southeastern corner of the city.
Unlike San Luca, this walk is flat and just about the entire walk is porticoed. You can walk up either Via Santo Stefano or Via Castiglione. I prefer the Via Santo Stefano way, because I love any excuse to visit the church of Santo Stefano. There are also some very nice shops past Santo Stefano including one where they sell the traditional hand stamped linens. The stamps are carved from pear wood. The most traditional color is a sort of mustard and the pigment contains a lot of rust.
The Giardini has a lagoon with a small island. It makes a nice stop for a picnic. We loaded up on supplies at Tamburini and it made for a wonderful afternoon.
I second the Giardini Margherita suggestion. It's a lovely quiet oasis when you need to get away.
Another nice park area is behind Palazzo Spada (there is a nice textile museum in the palazzo). I took the bus to P. Spada in the morning, toured the museum and then spent time in the park. In the early afternoon I caught the mini bus to the top of San Luca. Admittedly, not the same as hiking up but it made for a very pleasant day.
Another quiet get-away spot is the botanical garden which is connected to the university.
Posts: 785 | Location: Toronto | Registered: 18 February 2006
I also followed Girasoli's advice and hiked up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca on an extraordinarily hot day last June (at about the same time as Tour Mama!)
I was sweating like some kind of farm animal by the time I reached the top! It only takes about an hour's hike up to reach Sanctuary and is wonderful way to see the countryside, but it is very steep.
I walked from my hotel near Piazza Maggiore (passing Porta San Mamolo along the way) and it does make the walk much longer, but that's fine -- if you give yourself 4 or 5 hours both ways, it's not hard (hot, perhaps!)
I also got a bit confused trying to find the beginning of the walk -- the official pilgrimage route leads you under 666 porticos. I had passed under about 200 of those, strolling along at level ground and still inside the city, before the route began to climb and I finally realized that I was well on the way.
I had a fantastic lunch back at the bottom at Trattoria Meloncello. Wonderful, inexpensive, excellent food.
Another walk I like is up Via dell'Osservanza. Not far but gives a great view of the city. I copied the below from an earlier post of mine:
If you want to take a very nice walk, I would suggest to walk out the Porta San Mamolo, go straight, then turn right onto Via dell'Osservanza. It is very steep, but in not too long you will arrive at the Parco Villa Aldini, which is kind of like a small park with a great view of the city. Villa Aldini was built under Napoleon. There is a gate to get into the park, but you just have to push a red button to get in. This way you can get a good view of the city and see some of the beautiful colline!
Here is a map to easier see where to go:
Posts: 1291 | Location: Washington, DC | Registered: 08 May 2005
Here is my piece on San Luca published with photos on www.italiannotebook.com and Italian Notes on my website.
Bologna
Bologna - Known as La Dotta (the wise) for its historic university founded in 1088, and La Grassa (the fat) for its incredible cuisine, Bologna is also famous as the city where umbrellas are not needed, thanks to an ingenious network of covered sidewalks or porticos. The longest and most spectacular of these porticos climbs to the top of Monte della Guardia on the outskirts of Bologna from which the circular Santuario di San Luca guards the city.
Beginning at Porta Saragozza, Bologna's south-western gate, the portico's 666 arches stretch for over two miles. The uphill leg begins at the impressive Meloncello archway and continues past frescoed chapels and numerous memorial plaques honoring patrons who helped build or restore the majestic portico . From the top of the hill there are lovely views of the city and surrounding landscape below. Since its mention in John Grisham's "The Broker", the "Portico Trek" is fast becoming a must-do for visitors, just as the CinqueTerre trails are in Liguria.. Besides, in Bologna you'll be hard pressed to find a better way to work off all that great food!
Be aware that the "walk" is a climb up a stairway. It's great, but it's not for one with bad knees. Generally, the hilly area south/southeast of Bologna would be nice for hiking, but I'm not familiar with possibilities for public transportation and I don't believe there are marked trails.
---Marlene
Posts: 695 | Location: Boston, MA | Registered: 11 May 2004
Hi Nardi: We did the San Luca climb and were glad we did; amazed by the local runners who passed us (repeatedly) on our climb while we gasped for breath. Certainly worth it. Bring water.
You might also be interested in the first stage of the BO-FI Hiking Route, also known as Via degli Dei. It is a CAI marked trail. If you are really ambitious (and have the time) you can approach Fiesole from the north this time
This page suggests some treks around Bologna that may also be of interest, including a circular route that continues past San Luca.
There are also some very nice shops past Santo Stefano including one where they sell the traditional hand stamped linens. The stamps are carved from pear wood. The most traditional color is a sort of mustard and the pigment contains a lot of rust.
Sadly, the shop with the hand-stamped linens was having a "going out of business" sale last March when I was in Bologna. I had found it years ago and still enjoy their linens. Very disappointing that such beautiful hand-crafted items won't be around any longer. Of course, we stocked up.
Of course, fitness and one's interest in the speed of things is an individual call, but I've done the San Luca hike from the Piazza Maggiore, and (look, this is just for context) it took about two hours to the top. That is, it was less than an hour to Meloncello, which is near the start of the climb, and maybe an hour to the top. That was for five of us, in our mid-50s, two men, three women, all pretty fit but not rabidly so.
My point is that it doesn't have to take 4-5 hours each way. Certainly it can, and it would be fun too. I'm just saying we didn't waste too much time, and we got there pretty fast. That's not to say we got there not tired! Or that our knees didn't sigh at the top! AND at the bottom on the return.
There are also some very nice shops past Santo Stefano including one where they sell the traditional hand stamped linens. The stamps are carved from pear wood. The most traditional color is a sort of mustard and the pigment contains a lot of rust.
Sadly, the shop with the hand-stamped linens was having a "going out of business" sale last March when I was in Bologna. I had found it years ago and still enjoy their linens. Very disappointing that such beautiful hand-crafted items won't be around any longer. Of course, we stocked up.
Linda[/QUOTE]
Oh Linda, I am very sad to hear that! We purchased a number of things there and they were very nice.
We also purchased a lot of these linens direct from one of the manufacturers, but it was around 1999, 2000 or so. It was in a town between Cesena and Rimini. They took a logo design of ours, crafted the pear wood stamp and custom made aprons for the small cooking school we had. We also purchased non-custom made linens for ourselves. All of these linens have stood the test of time over these past 10 or 11 years. They just get softer and more beautiful. It may sound crazy, but I get real pleasure out of laundering them, ironing them etc.
I just hope my Italian is good enough that I won't get us lost in the woods because I misunderstood the directions or the level of difficulty in the trekking guide! I am assuming * is easy and **, ***, **** get harder. I know enough to avoid the trail that says do not take this if the weather is bad or the winds are strong - visions of us free falling off the path never to be heard again.
So many good things to ponder before going, then to just do...
Sandi, this isn't a recommendation because we haven't been there yet....
Terry & I will be in Bologna for a weekend at the beginning of July. After a fair amount of searching I booked us into the Porto San Mamolo - this thread mentions it several times.
Certainly the contact I have had with the hotel has been every bit as delightful as promised by those who have stayed there.
I noticed that Palma stayed there when she & Brad were in Bologna - if it is good enough for Palmabella it is good enough for us!
Colleenk and I both thoroughly enjoyed Hotel Al Capello Rosso. Steps away from Piazza Maggiore, super friendly staff, excellent breakfasts and wonderfully comfy beds...oh, and great shower pressure.
We love the Corona d'Oro one of several hotels owned by Bologna Art Hotels.
This is a splurge for us, we budget for it. But in the off-season or if there are no trade fairs in Bologna at the time, it can be reasonable.
We first stayed there in 1991. I have lost count, but I think we have stayed there 17 times, soon to be 18 this coming January.
They treat us so warmly. Simonetta and Bruna are wonderful at the front desk. If you look at the Corona's home page, Suite 104 was the room Simonetta upgraded us to on our last visit! The website does not do it justice. Bruna knew we were coming and brought her wedding photos in. She married the night porter! Virgilio, the day porter, is a gem. Silvana runs the breakfast room and I have never seen a more beautiful, lavish and caring breakfast display anywhere else in Europe. She takes personal pride in the offerings. She will also put a happy face on your cappuccino foam . Many rooms have balconies either overlooking Via Oberdan or the internal courtyard with views of neighboring rooftops.
We used to go to Bologna and take classes from the Simili sisters (Le Sorelli Simili) until this dynamic twin duo semi-retired. The staff at the Corona really enjoyed the breads and pastas we would bring back from class. It is located on the pedestrian only section of Via Oberdan, very close to Piazza Maggiore.
Another favorite of folks on this board is the Hotel Roma. If I couldn't stay at the Corona, I would stay here. It is located on one of my very favorite streets in Bologna, pedestrian only, loaded with shops.
We first stayed there in 1991. I have lost count, but I think we have stayed there 17 times, soon to be 18 this coming January.
Susie, that is amazing! You sure are a real Bologna expert. I second the recommendation for the Bologna Art Hotels. I stayed at the Commercianti last spring, and I toured the Orologio, which both SandraC and Girasoli ended up staying at. Last year, prices were really good for both - this year, I didn't get any good offers and we decided to go with an apartment rental.
And I popped my head into Al Cappello Rosso (to see Colleen!) and it was beautiful!
We are booked at two hotels in Bologna, but I will be cancelling one today. Originally we were going to stay at the Porto San Mamolo (which looks wonderful), but after jan mentioned the Hotel Paradise, I looked into it and decided that it would make the budget happier. It is ranked #6 on TripAdvisor, and has good reviews from satisfied travelers. Since we will be using trains for day trips the location closer to the station was one factor, and the difference in price is the other. The Paradise has both rooms and studio apartments; we have a studio on the top floor with great views. The savings will be paying for half of our newly booked culinary tour .
We stayed at Porto San Mamolo on our trip to Bologna a couple of years ago and it was our favorite part of Bologna. The staff was the BEST!
We also did the walk to San Luca. We were in our late 50's at the time, so its not beyond the majority of people. I agree with the person who said that anyone with bad knees(or hips or whatever) should not attempt it. Be sure and take a bottle of water with you as you will want it.
Posts: 293 | Location: Murfreesboro, TN USA | Registered: 10 August 2003
We booked an appartamento at the Albergo Drapperie. It is extremely budget friendly. I'm glad to hear it's in a pedestrian zone. Now we can make plans for the balsamico and parmigiano tour with the savings.
Posts: 261 | Location: western maine mountains | Registered: 26 February 2005
Because we are in our mid-70s and I have two artificial knees, I don't think we'll try the full climb, but what if we walked to the Meloncello gate: would that be fairly comfortable? (Then we could stop and have lunch there!) And can we get a bus from there to to top?
Charnee Smit: Italian in a previous life.
Posts: 498 | Location: San Leandro, CA | Registered: 21 September 2007
I've decided to 'do the marcia' and have booked a room at Porto San Mamolo, but I'm looking closely at the Hotel Paradise too. I'm not sure how many days I will be staying... so will cancel one soon. Convenience to the train station is appealing.
I was looking forward to visiting San Luca, until I read Sandra's comment
quote:
if you give yourself 4 or 5 hours both ways, it's not hard (hot, perhaps!)
5 hours?? That might just scare me away.
I might just have to satisfy myself with a cooking class instead.
Originally posted by bugalu: I've decided to 'do the marcia' and have booked a room at Porto San Mamolo, but I'm looking closely at the Hotel Paradise too. I'm not sure how many days I will be staying... so will cancel one soon. Convenience to the train station is appealing.
I was looking forward to visiting San Luca, until I read Sandra's comment
quote:
if you give yourself 4 or 5 hours both ways, it's not hard (hot, perhaps!)
5 hours?? That might just scare me away.
I might just have to satisfy myself with a cooking class instead.
. For us, changing from Hotel A to Hotel B is pretty much covering the cooking class costs for one of us.
I am looking into the bus option for San Luca myself; had chat with Tourmama about that this weekend. Or maybe walking one way and busing another.
. Many rooms have balconies either overlooking Via Oberdan or the internal courtyard with views of neighboring rooftops.
in Bologna, but I will be cancelling one today. Originally we were going to stay at the Porto San Mamolo (which looks wonderful), but after jan mentioned the Hotel Paradise, I looked into it and decided that it would make the budget happier. It is ranked #6 on TripAdvisor, and has good reviews from satisfied travelers. Since we will be using trains for day trips the location closer to the station was one factor, and the difference in price is the other. The Paradise has both rooms and studio apartments; we have a studio on the top floor with great views. The savings will be paying for half of our newly booked culinary tour 
.
