This is very short notice, but I could use some of your expertise. We have a 4 day trip planned starting this Thursday morning. We will be driving from Rome and staying at Villa Vistarenni (near Radda) until Sunday morning.
For Thursday: On the way up, is it reasonable to visit both Montalcino and Montepulciano and make it to Radda by 6 or 7 in the evening? Would it be better to pick just one? If so, which one? I know that everyone has different opinions, but I'd love to hear them.
For Friday & Saturday: I don't know exactly where to go. My parents-in-law would like to take a day trip to Florence. I had read that driving to Greve and then taking the bus to Florence would be a good option. Also, we would like to visit one or more wineries in the Chianti area.
For Sunday: My in-laws will continue on to ...wherever they want to go...and my family will return to Rome.
Are you leaving from FCO and at what time? Rush hour on Thursday can slow you down,even from the airport. The drive is not a problem, but when you arrive tn the Val D'Orcia rea makes a big difference because most things are closed 12-2 or later. Read some trip reports on where to go on friday and Saturday. Castellina, San Gim, Volterra and others make nice trips. Taking a bus from greve and visiting Florence is better (IMHO) than driving into Florence, but one short day is way too short a visit. Lot's of wineries near where you are staying. I again suggest trip reports or doing a search here.
On the way up, is it reasonable to visit both Montalcino and Montepulciano and make it to Radda by 6 or 7 in the evening? Would it be better to pick just one?
No, unless you plan to run thru the towns and then drive super fast. Pick one and after seeing the town have lunch there before you leave for Radda. There is a lot to see between Rome and Radda, so you want to be able to enjoy the drive. I'd pick Montalcino then continue on SR2 thru Siena; then pick up SR22 north of Siena. This is a beautiful drive.
As for the rest of the options: IMO you are picking too many things to do in a short period of time. The bus to Florence is a good idea; but, will take planning = time. Do you know where the bus leaves from Greve, the time, where to park your car? This means a trip to Greve beforehand. Remember, this trip will take up one whole day.
There are many wonderful areas to easily visit from Radda... i.e. San Gimignano, Panzano, Greve & many wineries. In Greve visit the Forno "bakery" and buy the cantucci. Especially wonderful if bought in the AM when still warm from the oven. There is a large window where you can watch the bakers at work...if you get there early.
Have a great trip, relax and take time to enjoy the fabulous scenery, food and wines.
I don't think you have enough time for Montalcino and Montepulciano. Personally I prefer Montalcino. To see more of the country I would get off the A1 at Orvieto and drive up SR2, stopping at Montalcino and maybe even Pienza.
If you want to go into Florence the bus is a great idea. The bus stop is on the main street in Greve and hard to miss. I think it runs every hour or so but ask at your hotel or in Radda (Bar Dante will know)
We are in Radda every year (love the town). There is an internet cafe (Bar Sandy). Carolyn, Fabrizio, Ute and Daniel at Bar Dante are friends.. fun place for a glass of wine. Al Chiasso dei Portici has wonderful food. You are also close to Badia Coltibuono which is a good restaurant. Vescovino in Panzano is very good. And on of our very favorite is Cantinetta Rignana which is above Greve and Montefioralle (where Americo Vespuci was from) http://www.lacantinettadirignana.it
If you are not going into Florence with your inlaws you might want to tour wineries by Greve. A couple are: Verazzano or Fontodi. If you need help with these go to the Enoteca Toscana in the middle of Radda. Ask Fabrizio if he can help arrange a tour (say hello from Jerry and Jeannie in Idaho).
Other town that are pretty and interesting: Siena; San Gim; Monteriggioni
We'll actually be leaving from Casal Palocco (close to Ostia). We were planning to leave by 8 AM to beat the holiday traffic. With the holiday (May 1) in mind, do you think I'll face any issues with wineries or shops being closed?
Patricia- What do you consider early to see the bakers at work at the Forno in Greve? My kids would love this!
Jfraz - if/when I encounter Fabrizio, I will happily tell him hello from "Jerry and Jeannie!"
Thanks for everyone's input. I have much to consider!
With regard to where to park your car to take the bus from Greve to Florence, there are at least two bus stops with parking. One is on the south side of the town on the way to Panzano with a very large parking lot. The other is just north of Piazza Matteotti with parking also. Since this one is closest to the center of Greve, it probably fills up more quickly. At this location, you will also be closer to a tobacco shop to buy your bus tickets.
In Radda, I recommend visiting Volpaia, where the Castello di Volpaia's http://www.volpaia.it/sito/inglese/index.php wine making and olive oil production facilities are brilliantly concealed behind 15th century walls. The Castello di Volpaia offers an excellent tour of their facilities and wine tasting. Volpaia also has a charming restaurant and winebar in the center and offers great hikes, too. (You must reserve this wine tour in advance.) Il Poggerino in Radda is an excellent winery where you can go for a tasting, too. As others have noted, there are many, many fine wineries close by.
Close to Radda, in Gaiole, is the Badia a Coltibuono http://www.coltibuono.com/, which offers a tour of the gardens and winery, and also has an excellent restaurant on site.
If you go to Florence, try to avoid the weekend which will be more crowded. The bus is easy; purchase tickets in the bar across the street from the bus stop and stamp/cancel them after you board the bus the bus. If your parents want to see any "big" attractions in Florence, make reservations. Check on return bus times (I think the last bus returns rather early).
The area around Radda is beautiful, so save some time to enjoy it.
---Marlene
Posts: 537 | Location: Boston, MA | Registered: 11 May 2004
hello mimiB, have you been to villa vistarenni before? i'm asking because its easy to miss the turn-off to the very long lane. i hope you have directions!
also, in answer to your question, yes, its possible to see both montalcino and montepulciano within your time constraints, but i would not recommend it. either place is a wonderful experience and, due to the holiday, there may be some things closed, but most tourist destinations operate a bit differently these days, so lots of shops will probably be open for business.
radda is my home village and it is just the best - i agree with the suggestion to visit volpaia. i would suggest having lunch at "la bottega"... carla barucci is a delight and a very good cook! another great place to eat, which is in lucarelli (just outside radda) is "osteria le panzanelle".
if you have time, you may want to consider a visit to nora kravis and her "kids" (www.chianticashmere.com) she raises cashmere goats on a farm, which is also just outside of radda, and she creates wonderful products from the wool, plus soaps, shampoos, lotions, etc., from the milk.
this is a very busy time of the year for fabrizio and he's not in the tour business - but you may want to visit with antonio lapucci at "agenzia radda" about joining a winery tour.
Thanks again for your wealth of information. Our itinerary is now scaled down to visiting Montalcino on the way up; exploring Volpaia, visiting ChiantiCashmere; trying not to spend all my money at Rampini Ceramiche; and walking/hiking/lounging about the countryside. If we feel more adventuresome, we'll venture into more towns!
I know that everyone has different opinions, but I'd love to hear them.
